Shaniwar Wada, Ruined palace of Pune

March 25, 2026 Leave a comment

Shaniwar Wada

Ruined palace of Pune

Also see: FAM Trip of Pune

Shaniwar Wada, in Pune, was the former palace and residential complex of the Peshwas. Today, the ruined complex is beautifully restored and turned into a tourist attraction at the heart of Pune.

Delhi Gate of Shaniwar Wada, Pune

Delhi Gate of Shaniwar Wada, Pune

A brutal murder:Kaka, maala vachva’ (Save me, uncle). The desperate cries of Peshwa Narayan Rao echoed from the interiors of the Shaniwar Wada and on to the streets of Pune. It was August 30, 1773, and Punekars were busy celebrating Ganesh Chathurthi, the biggest festival of Maharashtra. The uncle referred to was Raghunath Rao, who wanted to remove his teenage nephew and become the peshwa.

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Mussoorie Rickshaw Ride

March 18, 2026 Leave a comment

Mussoorie Rickshaw Ride

Exploring the hill-station of Uttarkhand on a cycle rickshaw

Also see: Uttarakhand Travelogues

Hills stations and cycle rickshaws don’t go hand in hand, but think again, as Mussoorie has its share of cycle rickshaws and is a popular mode of transport for both locals and tourists. Usually, the undulating terrain of the hill station makes padel power difficult in the hill- stations.

My wife Debjani and my daughter Rupsha enjoys a rickshaw ride in front of the Hawa Mahal pavilion

My wife Debjani and my daughter Rupsha enjoys a rickshaw ride in front of the Hawa Mahal pavilion

Things are different in Mussoorie, a large tract of land surrounding the hill station is flat, making it easily accessible for pedal-powered vehicles. Moreover, motor vehicles are not allowed in large sections of the mall area and therefore, rickshaws make a good substitute.

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Wow Taj! A family trip to Taj Mahal

March 11, 2026 Leave a comment

Wow Taj!

A family trip to Taj Mahal

Also see: Agra Travelogues

Even with three decades of tracking heritage structures across the country and beyond. The Taj Mahal, India’s most popular heritage structure, has remained elusive for me. It was only after half a century on this planet that I caught the first glimpse of the monument of eternal love.

Taj Mahal, Agra

Taj Mahal, Agra

On 25 March 2025, I walked into the Taj Mahal complex with my wife, Debjani and daughter, Rupsha. Straight in front of me was the grand milk-white marble mausoleum, which Tagore describes as:

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Hyderabad Armenian Cemetery

March 4, 2026 5 comments

Armenian Cemetery

Uppuguda, Hyderabad

Also see: Travelogues from Hyderabad

A three-kilometer walk from Charminar through the labyrinth of the old town of Hyderabad leads to the tiny Armenian Cemetery. The 400-year-old cemetery is located in the Uppuguda locality of Hyderabad (Google map location).

Pavilions and tombs of Armenian Cemetery, Hyderabad

Pavilions and tombs of Armenian Cemetery, Hyderabad

The cemetery is difficult to located and is heavily encroached. The cemetery houses a total of 20 graves, out of which 19 are Armenian. The only exception is a Dutch grave.

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Lohagad Fort, Iron Fort near Lonavala

February 26, 2026 Leave a comment

Lohagad Fort

Iron Fort near Lonavala

Also see: Travelogues from Lonavala

Lohagad, literally meaning the iron fort, stands on a triangular table top about 15 km south-east of Lonavala. The fort stands on the edge of the Sahyadri Range and lies between the Indrayani and Pavana river basins.

Massive bastions of the mighty Lohagad Fort

Massive bastions of the mighty Lohagad Fort

Because of its strategic location the Lohagad Fort is often considered as the strongest and most famous Deccan forts. Over the decade and centuries the fort has changed hands several times and each dynasty have contributed in strengthening its fortification turn the Lohagad into a mighty citadel.

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Kerala Museum and Hill Palace Museum, Ernakulam, Kerala

February 19, 2026 Leave a comment

Kerala Museum and Hill Palace Museum

Exploring two lesser known museums of Ernakulam, Kochi (Cochin)

Also see: Travelogues from Kochi (Cochin)

Ernakulam is the business district of the city of Kochi (formerly Cochin). Fort Kochi, located on the western part, is a prime tourist destination. Ernakulam, located on the eastern side, is more of a business district consisting of administrative buildings like the high court, municipal corporation office, along with ship yard and naval base.

Ernakulam Museums (L: Kerala Museum & R: Hill Palace Museum)

Ernakulam Museums (L: Kerala Museum & R: Hill Palace Museum)

But the region also houses two interesting museums highlighting the rich history and heritage of Kerala and beyond.

  1. Kerala Museum
  2. Hill Palace Museum

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Somapura Mahavihara (Paharpur), Bangladesh

February 11, 2026 Leave a comment

Somapura Mahavihara (Paharpur), Bangladesh

One of the grandest Buddhist viharas in the sub-continent

Also see: Tour of Rasjhahi region, Bangladesh

For centuries, a 24-metre-high hill has dominated the landscape of Gangetic Bengal. It was located about 100km north of Rajshahi in present-day Bangladesh. Hills have never been a part of the absolutely flat floodplains of Bengal, but this hill did stand.

Somapura Mahavihara (Paharpur)

Somapura Mahavihara (Paharpur)

It was so prominent that the adjoining village came to be known as Paharpur (pahar is the Bengali word for hill). But it was not exactly a hill, but a mound covering a massive historical structure.

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Netaji Birth Place Museum, Cuttack

January 23, 2026 Leave a comment

Netaji Birth Place Museum

Cuttack, Odisha

Also see: Cuttack Travelogues

Right at the heart of Cuttack (Odisha) on Jail Road in Darga Bazar area stands a towering gateway topped with figures of marching army, complete with statues of armed men with bayonet-mounted guns and a cannon.

Gate on the Jail Road leading towards the Netaji Birth Place Museum

Gate on the Jail Road leading towards the Netaji Birth Place Museum

The meandering road from the gate leads to the house, which was the birthplace of one of India’s great freedom fighters: Subhas Chandra Bose, popularly known as Netaji.

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Exploring the temples east of Bindu Sagar, Bhubaneswar

December 10, 2025 Leave a comment

Exploring the temples east of Bindu Sagar, Bhubaneswar

Bhubaneswar – Temple Series 1

Also see: Bhubaneswar Travelogues

According to legend, Bhubaneswar once housed a thousand temples. Sadly, many of these have crumbled to dust and many more have been reconstructed into modern structures, but the few that have survived the test of time and still stand to this day are worth a visit. They offer an interesting mix of pilgrimage and history. The temples of Bhubaneswar are located in the old town and are centred around the ancient man-made lake of Bindu Sagar.

Temples east of Bindu Sagar, Bhubaneswar

Temples east of Bindu Sagar, Bhubaneswar
Clockwise from top left: Mukteswara & Siddheswara Temple complex; Parasurameswar Temple; Kotiteertheswara Temple and Sampoornajaleswar and Subarnajaleswar Temples

Even today, there are dozens of temples, and a couple of full days are essential to explore them. But people with limited time can opt for a shorter tour concentrating only on the eastern side of the lake. This tour will take only a few hours and offer an interesting sneak peek into the temples of Bhubaneswar.

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Red Taj and the Other Tombs of Roman Catholic Cemetery, Agra

November 20, 2025 6 comments

Red Taj, final resting place of a Dutch mercenary

Roman Catholic Cemetery, Agra

Also see: Agra Travelogues

Agra is known for the Taj Mahal, but hidden among the lanes and bylanes of Agra stands another Taj – Red Taj. It lacks the grandeur and the grace of its more famous counterpart, but still shares an amazing resemblance. Strangely, the tomb houses the mortal remains of a Christian mercenary from the Netherlands and is part of the Roman Christian Cemetery, Agra.

Red Taj, the tomb of John William Hessing at Roman Catholic Cemetery, Agra

Red Taj, the tomb of John William Hessing at Roman Catholic Cemetery, Agra

The necropolis: At first glance, it appears to be an array of Mughal-style tombs complete with domes, chhatris and arches and probably the last thing one would consider it to be a Christian cemetery.

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