The end of a busy week; last Saturday I set off early and set off for North Wales for a walk I’d planned in the northern Carneddau from Abergwngregyn. This range of quiet hills and mountains in northern Eryri (Snowdonia) has become a favourite the last few years. The routes published in guidebooks are fairly limited but the OS map suggested that there were other ways to get amongst them. I recently came across Hilary Pullen’s website (Nearly Uphill) and associated Youtube channel that has a number of routes up from the northern side of the range. One of them went up two lesser peaks to the south west of Abergwyngregyn and that’s what I was going to (more or less) follow. I was tempted by another slightly more challenging route going higher up from the same starting point, but I’m not that “fell fit” at the moment.
It was a sunny day, but longer range visibility was poor, which was disappointing, but I still thoroughly enjoyed the walk.
I parked up in the free car park on the edge of the village, booted up and set off. Abergwngregyn is something of a “honeypot” destination due to its proximity to the Aber Falls (Rhaeadr Fawr and Rhaeadr Bach). The village itself isn’t very “chocolate box” and most visitors just pass through on their way to the falls. Most people park in the car parks at the other side of the village, closer to the falls, but the free car park was about half full when I arrived.
I set off through the village until I reached the sign post for the North Wales Coast path. I wondered whether I’d see any of the semi-wild ponies that live up on the Carneddau mountain sides during my walk.
A steep climb up the hillside then ensued.
At the top of the climb there are outstanding views of the mountains and over the sea. The haze restricted what I could see but I could still just about make out Anglesey over the Menai Straits.
Initially I was following the high level route to the falls on the west side of the valley bu just after the power lines I turned right up a path that headed up the hill
until it reached a ladder stile, the other side of which was Buarth Newydd, one of multi-cellular sheep folds that are characteristic of the Carneddau uplands.
I was on a broad path now, probably reflecting its use by the sheep farmers, which contoured along the side of the hill above the valley.
There was a good view towards the mountains and I could just about make out the waterfalls through the haze.
Then I spotted a small group of three ponies, including a foal, up on the hillside a little way above the path.
The path descended and then climbed back up the valley. However, it was no longer broad and easy to see and I lost it for a while, making my own way through the rough ground, climbing gradually up hill until I reached a clear path higher up on a broad boggy plateau from where I could clearly see my first objective, the modest hill of Gyrn. There was a large sheepfold at the foot of the hill.
Reaching the hill I met another walker (a rare beast up here) who was taking a break sitting on a rock. I stopped to chat. He was a local and he kindly told me how to correctly pronounce the names of some of the landmarks. I then carried on, climbing up the hill, which was covered with scattered rocks, so I had to tread carefully.
There was shelter on the top of the hill, but on a fine day I didn’t need to use it while I took a break and ate my dinner.
The summit of this modest hill, standing alone on the plateau is an outstanding viewpoint. Despite the haze I could make out most of the high peaks of the Carneddauand the Glyyderau, and I was pretty sure I could see Snowdon too.
Looking north and west, there were no high peaks so I could see right down to the coast and Anglesey (Ynys Mon).
My next objective, Moel Wnion, which, at 1903 ft is just short of qualifying for the title of a mountain, was directly north, and I could see a herd of ponies scattered across the hill side.
Descending, I had a good view of the sheepfold, Buarthau’r Gyrn.
These sheepfolds up in the Carneddau are used when a number of farmers gather them for shearing or other purposes, usually three times a year. Each farmer has their own cell in the fold but they work together to bring sheep into a large gathering pen and then into a dividing pens for sorting. After identifying their own sheep through markings or clustnodau, a specific pattern of cuts on their ear, they move them into their own cell. There’s further details here if you’re interested.
After crossing the boggy ground between the two hills (it wasn’t too bad underfoot after a week of dry, sunny weather) I climbed steadily to the the summit of Moel Wnion.
There was a shelter on the summit, inside of which there was a damaged trig column. The top of it lying on the floor just outside the shelter.
More good views, including over to Bera Fawr and Bera Mawr to the east.
I didn’t dally too long up here but started to make my way down the hill
passing close to another small herd of ponies.
The views ahead, now, were dominated by the sea, rather than the mountains.
When researching this route on Hilary Pullen’s website, her report noted that a gate which a path shown on the OS map passed through, was locked. (The path wasn’t marked as a right of way so the farmer probably had the right to do this, even though that seemed rather mean of him). I’d plotted a route using the OS maps app that avoided it and reaching the power lines I turned left heading downhill (passing more ponies!) towards a different gate.
Guess what – this was also locked. So I dithered around a little looking for another option wondering whether I’d misread the map and had missed the right gate. Not seeing anything obvious, after a while I consulted the map (should have done that straight away, really) and saw that there was a right of way further down the hill, so I made my way to that and was able to go through an unlocked gate, follow the path through a field and then join the North Wales Path heading back towards Aber.
Rather than descend into Aber the way I’d come up, I follwed a track that descended more gradually off the hill
and then through fields and past the church on the edge of the village and then back to my car ready for the drive home.








































































































































































































