Feeds:
Posts
Comments

Posts Tagged ‘countryside’

Image

Stepping out of the car, we’re met by a moderate rain. Mid-morning at Vaughn’s Café – again. This time, our plan is a circuit, taking in a slice of the Roddlesworth plantations, then up onto Darwen Moor. We have a new lens for the camera, which we were hoping to try out. It’s a super-wide format, the aim being to add a touch of drama to our lone trees and sky, but we’ve left the camera at home. The forecast just didn’t justify bringing it out.

The lens is an old one, and designed for use with my make of camera – though, it turns out, not my specific model. It still works as a lens, but it doesn’t automatically focus. Now, this should be no hardship since, once upon a time, all our focusing was done manually. We chose the subject, then turned the dial until it was sharp. I could have got the lens a lot cheaper from other sellers if I’d known. Anyway, that’s another story, but it has us thinking about focus and doing things automatically, in metaphorical ways, like sometimes how we roll from bed of a morning, draw back the curtains on yet another flake-white Lowry sky, before rolling automatically back in.

So, we click our imaginary lens from auto to manual, we pick our day, and just go for it. And here we are, the sky more the colour of lead than flake-white, cloud-base so low you can reach up and touch it, and then the rain. It’s never a good sign, having to pull on full waterproofs at the start of a walk, but may the rain wash us clean. I imagined I had found a way of stepping aside from the news cycle, of no longer being triggered by ‘events’, but the world has more recently caught onto me, changed tactics, and now I cannot look at it without feeling unclean.

The forest ways through Roddlesworth are heavy going, dark, and the trees dripping, the paths doubling as lively streams. The body warms quickly under several layers, though the fingers still ache from cold. I have a new waterproof outer which is performing well, the rain beading up and running off, at least for a time. But after a couple of hours, the fabric is starting to wet out and no longer breathable, so we begin to wet from the inside as condensation soaks back into the mid-layers.

We make our way over towards Darwen, through Sunnyhurst, then a brief rest and a stand-up lunch in the shelter of the lych gate, before tackling the climb onto the moor. There’s been no let-up in the rain, and a stiffening breeze now, as the landscape becomes more exposed. But the wind is to our backs, so it helps, rather than hinders. I’m still exercising the legs of a morning with a dumbbell – still not sure if it’s making a difference on the hill, but anything that gets the heart pumping is doing some good, so long as we’re not overdoing it.

There’s a forbidding bleakness to Darwen moor at the best of times, but on a day like this, it’s particularly challenging to the spirit. Interesting now, the proliferation of leaky dams and berms – the moor being engineered to hold water, of which there is plenty today. We make a somewhat bumbling return through the woods, past Sipper Lowe, back to Vaughn’s, slithering in mud as we go.

The car is a relief to see, though I’m almost too weary to pull the gear off. The waterproof trousers have leaked through the pocket slits leaving big cold patches on my thighs. And, as suspected, I’m wet down to the mid-layer from condensation. It was a longish walk, about eight miles at pace, not much by way of meditation, no messing about with photographs. I’m not sure if the day has washed me clean, but that cup of tea in Vaughn’s café was most welcome. We emerge from the steamy interior mid-afternoon to an already fading light, and the rain had stopped.

We’re feeling cold of a sudden, and in need of a hot bath. Back at the car, we set the heater on full and reach for the radio, then think better of it, and drive home in silence. It is plain now that, at a certain elevated – indeed stratospheric – level, the world has always been this dirty. Yet, I’m sure the majority of us bring our children up to believe in magic and kindness, and I still think that’s right. We imagine the damage comes only from the stranger, the predator, the one who lurks at the margins of society, yet some of them are also riding very high, indeed running and shaping the world in their own image.

Perhaps the rain did not wash us entirely clean then, but for a short time at least it has brought the world back into a cleaner focus. It’s shown us how it’s not always wise to go with what comes to us automatically, because it may not be trustworthy. And it reminds us that in order to see clearly, to choose what we look at, instead of having it chosen for us, we have to switch that imaginary lens back to manual. And if we can do that, then even splashing through the wet and the cold of a Lancashire upland in the depths of winter, carries its own form of innocent grace.

Image

Read Full Post »

Image

You catch up with me on the causeway between the Anglezarke and the Upper Rivington Reservoirs. It’s a clear day with an unblemished blue of sky, and a bright sun with no heat in it. It’s only my second outing this year, and January is all but done, now. I suppose that’s the problem when we can pick our days – we tend to hold out for the best of the forecast and save the inclement weather for indoor things: for housework, for writing, or just staying cosy in bed.

And then of course, with its storms, interspersed by interminable grey, the year seems to have kicked off with a mixture of rage and depression. The sparkle has been sadly lacking, but today looks like one of those days sent to rescue us all from oblivion. That said, the forecast was a bit hysterical last night with warnings about a hard frost and ice, neither of which transpired. It’s definitely cold though, as we step out to embrace the air and fasten on our boots.

The Anglezarke reservoir is still low, the last of the reservoirs to fill – the rest of them, from Roddlesworth to the Lower Rivington being now brim-top after all the rains. We take the path by the spillway, a shortcut up to the Yarrow, then loop round to the Parson’s Bullough road. If there was going to be ice anywhere this morning, it would be here, but the way is clear. The moor is shedding water, a bright new spring running down the path, and pooling by the corner of Allance bridge.

Image

Here we take the steep meadow way, up to the finger post on the skyline, and catch our first views of the day – bare trees, and bright contrasts. Indeed, the sun is so bright here the highlights are burning out in the camera, and in my watery eyes too. I’ve been trying to keep the leg muscles in shape over winter by doing squats with one of the dumbbells the kids left behind. It doesn’t seem to have worked. By the time we reach the finger post we’re ready for a long pause and a fiddle with the camera.

The oak trees up Twitch Hills have survived the storms, and beg their photographs as I pass under their spreading branches. I wouldn’t like to lose these two. Always a tragedy when a grand old tree comes down, though it’s nature’s way, I suppose. We take a breather among the ruins of Peewit Hall – views out to the coast, across the gorgeous green of the hills by Jepson’s farm. They’re replacing a long run of wire here with a traditional hedgerow – looks like hawthorn. If anything can survive up here hawthorn can. This will be a boon for birds when it’s mature. Odd how one hand can be so protective of the environment, while the other is so destructive.

Image

Lunch is a cheese and onion roll from the filling station we called at on the way over, and rendered all the more tasty for being eaten out of doors. All around us there’s the familiarity of long years, and an air of ease. Still no warmth in the sun, but it’s good to be out. I feel a whisper of poetry coming through, just a feeling and a rhythm… no words, yet, but it’s something about the importance of the familiar. Winter’s a hard time for getting out, for exploring further afield, but what we’re looking for in nature can be found anywhere, and no more deeply engaged with than here, amid the familiar. What it triggers is a mysterious blend of comfort and a longing.

While we eat, we set the camera on our bag, along with the binoculars, breathe deep of the air. So far, I’ve seen no one since the causeway, but suddenly there’s a loose dog coming at us like a rocket, so I make a grab for my gear. I’ve nearly lost a camera like that before. It got my lunch instead on that occasion. The dog gets a call from its owner who’s passing on the track above. I don’t get a glance, let alone an apology. It’s almost as if it’s my fault for tempting the dog by sitting at my ease. I find it strange.

Image

I’m reminded of that story by the Zen monk, Thích Nhất Hạnh, about carrying a cup of coffee. Someone runs into you and you spill the coffee. Why did you spill the coffee? You’re tempted to say it’s because someone ran into you, but the answer is because you were carrying coffee. Had you been carrying tea, you would have spilled tea. Someone bumps into you, and you tend to spill whatever you’re carrying.

The fact I didn’t feel anything in particular is perhaps telling in other ways – that I’m perhaps carrying a cup of low expectations towards my fellow man, which isn’t healthy, but there’s also a fairly robust compass in there that’s keeping me aligned in other ways, at least for now. That poem though? It’s gone. The muse must have given it to someone else. I’m sure they’ll do a good job of it.

We almost loop back on ourselves here, taking the path down to Lead Mine’s Clough, and back to Allance Bridge. Then we’re up Hodge Brow to Morris’s Barn, and across the meadows above the Yarrow to Rivington and the tearoom. The tearoom is packed out and steamy, seemingly the whole world on its pension. Including me of course. We plump for a Kit-Kat and a cup of tea, sit out with it.

That poem though? We trawl the memory, but it’s like one of those dreams that slips away in the morning, and there’s just no bringing it back. It doesn’t matter. I know what she meant, even if I can no longer articulate it. It’s a doorway, I suppose, a doorway to a feeling for what the Welsh have as hiraeth. There is no direct English translation, but the closest I can get is that it’s a longing for the world behind the world, a homesickness for a place you can never return to. The Germans have a similar word, at least one that occupies a similar emotional space: Sehnsucht, this being a longing for a home, a world you’ve yet to find. I guess my poem fell somewhere down the gap between the two.

Anyway, that’s it for now. We leave the tearooms, take the path around the old chape1l. It’s a place heavy with shadow and centuries of moss, but where the sun slices in, by the gates… there are snowdrops.

Image

About 5 miles round, 390 feet of moderate up and down.

Thanks for listening

Read Full Post »

Image

It’s a fair old run from home
to Pateley Bridge,
about on the edge of what you’d call a day trip.
Two hours by car, in fact.
I know it well from pleasant sojourns with family,
weeks, of temporary residence
around Ripon and Studley Royal.

A mixed forecast for the day, and me
feeling under the weather.
Again.
A lingering lethargy and a bleeding,
festering spot on my bum
that refuses to heal.
I must show it to the nurse
on Monday.
It’s embarrassing.
These things are sent to try us.

It was a friend’s walk, really.
Not mine. I just tagged along,
relieved, and immeasurably glad to chat,
to feel the energy of engagement,
and reminiscence.
Connection with old times,
way back.

Hill, dale, forest, moor.
Distant views.
Known landmarks, centring in space and time.
Past times, mostly.
And then a reassurance in the power
to face the grade,
some aches, but a gathering spirit
reassuring me, there are as yet
more miles ahead.

I’ve neglected the camera this year.
Fiddled about with lesser resolutions.
Never satisfactory.

Then of a sudden,
and in passing, soft skies,
a gentle landscape
and the shape of trees.

The best picture I’ll take this year.

I can’t remember where.
It doesn’t matter.
Somewhere near Glasshouses, I think.
Didn’t throw any stones.

Thanks for listening.

Image

Read Full Post »

Image

Dodging the week’s heavy rain, we head for Abbey Village where we discover Union Jacks and St George’s crosses hanging from every lamp-post. This has been a feature of many towns and villages in England over these dog days of summer. I note there has been some online discourse attempting to reclaim them from the more thuggish element, bring them back into the realm of a kind of benignly patriotic boosterism, as if it were the King’s jubilee or something. But after those violent scenes in London over the weekend, such language sounds like feeble back-tracking by those who got a bit carried away. The flag craze is about marking territory. Who’s in, who’s out.

We have another short-ish walk in mind today – still finding my legs after a week or so of feeling under the weather. But first we call at the Hare and Hounds – flying a German flag – for a pot of tea to get us going. Funny how times move on. I remember my mother telling me how, as a child, living in Abbey Village, she watched a German bomber fly along the rooftops, so low she could see the crew. It’s likely they were looking for the giant ordnance factory at Chorley, and thank Heavens they never found it.

Eighty, Ninety years later is a lot of water under the bridge. A quick doom scroll has me wishing we could send a flood and get it over with. But we’re in drought, so it might take longer this time for things to right themselves and for us to make firm friends of old enemies – the complicating factor being we’re still expanding daily that list of enemies until we’re all on it.

Leaving current affairs aside though, the heavy rains this week have made little impression on our empty reservoirs. The Roddlesworth system here is dramatically low. They appear to be pumping air into the Rake Brook reservoir, closest to the village, while pumping the Lower Roddlesworth out. I can’t find anything more about what’s going on here. No notices on site, and nothing on line.

Today we follow our usual route clockwise around the denuded reservoirs, but we make a detour to Higher Hill farm, way up on the skyline. From here we explore a beautiful terraced path we’ve not walked before, and which makes a pleasant change from the gloom of the plantations. There are some unfamiliar trees along the way and we experiment with using them to frame the view.

The way eventually loses itself in a meadow, as we approach the Tockholes Road. It clearly isn’t walked much, but we do our duty by keeping it open. The meadow is shin-high with a rich green, and dotted with clover which we try to photograph, but we’re losing our touch with the camera and everything comes out wrong.

Image

We regain the plantation, trees still crisping up, and acorns scrunching underfoot, but no sign of that dramatic colour change yet. Then we’re on the path to Ryal Fold. It’s still only mid-afternoon, but the café there is closed – I’d been hoping for another brew, but we make do scavenging for chestnuts. I don’t know why. I was doing this last week in Rivington. A few days in your pocket and they’ve lost that magical sheen, but for a moment at least, when fresh, they are worth all the tea in China.

Plunging back into the plantations, we take the muddy path down to Rocky Brook, which seems lively enough after the rains. There are a lot of trees fallen in this year’s storms – some lovely, shapely specimens too, and which I’ve photographed over the decades – a record of transience, or impermanence which seemed permanent enough at the time. It’s quiet, even for a midweek – usually lots of dogs about, but I’ve not passed a soul since the Hare and Hounds. It’s feels like the nation is under cover and braced for something awful.

I’m sure it’s not related, but I note the POTUS is arriving in the UK around the time of writing, for the pleasure of the King. Gilded carriage ride and all that. Heavens. I noticed with some mild astonishment how the mainstream presses were lapping up the pageantry, as if all this was a perfectly normal state visit, while somehow averting their eyes from the real story. For that, you have to dig a little deeper into the alternative media, though I suppose that is also a part of the story of our times.

Image

Hard to get used to the sight of the reservoirs looking like this. The system never really topped itself up, even after those months of torrential winter rains. And now we’re lower than ever. All this water still goes to Liverpool, I think. Go easy with it folks, but be careful not to mention Climate Change in the wrong company. Oh, Lord, four miles or so already, and the bones are creaking. Whatever this lurgy was, it managed to get in there pretty deep. Still chesty too.

Thick clouds of a sudden, and though it’s hours from sunset, the day takes on a late season feel – that flat, fading light of November or December, cars on the old turnpike roaring by and lit up. Then it all peels back and the sun comes out, and it’s summer again – dramatic contrasts as trees are lit against dark, mysterious forest backgrounds.

Image

So, back to the car now, a little worse for wear, but a few more footpaths added to that map of memory, to say nothing of the psycho-geography of my little patch of England. I’m sure we’ll get through this, that we’ll swing back eventually to a more compassionate kind of nationhood. After all, it’s worth bearing in mind only about a quarter of us get a thrill from raising the colours this way, that the rest consider it a question of place and time.

Well, anything else just isn’t British. Is it?

About five and a quarter miles round, six hundred feet of moderate up and down.

Image

Read Full Post »

Image

We’re still a bit under the weather from this cold, but we’ve driven out to the Yarrow Reservoir anyway, thinking a bit of fresh air will do us good. A recent wash and brush up reveals the little Blue Car is showing signs of tin worm again, this time around the bottom of the front wings. It raises thoughts once more of the impermanence of things. 23 years old now, but still a good runner, and worth the ongoing restoration. I just need to find someone who’s not a cowboy, and will appreciate what she means to me. We keep going as long as we can. Until we can’t.

Stepping out on the Parson’s Bullough road, we’re not sure we’re up to much, actually. It’s a beautiful day for sure and a wonderfully dynamic sky, but my head feels like it’s having an out-of-body experience – not altogether unpleasant, but we’d better go easy. My ramblings here may be a little more surreal than usual. A couple of butties, a waterproof just in case, and the camera. Temperatures, are a little on the fresh side, the many oaks along the wayside here crisping back, and the reservoir is vanishingly low. I note the contractors are still working in the valve house, so maybe they’ve run a lot of water off, that it’s a maintenance thing, and nothing to do with climate change at all.

So, we’ll take our time, treat ourselves to a brew at the Rivington tearoom, then circle back, about three miles round, all in familiar territory. It’s the walk I settle on when I’m not sure I’m up to walking much. This September light is such a joy, low and bright but, unlike its Spring counterpart, the contrasts tend to be warm and rich. The lush pastures over Jepson’s way have a glow about them, and the sky is magnificent.

After the short sharp pull up the brow by Morrises, we enter the meadows above the reservoir and, though we must have walked this way a thousand times, we discover a new tree. Well, it’s always been there – it’s just that it was shy, and today the light has picked it out. A brief detour has us weighing it up. An oak, nicely shaped. Looks good against the sky and with the hills as backdrop. We hazard a few shots. Relax then into the sun, and the scent of the earth.

Image

We have some thistle still in flower, but most of the flora is turning to sleep now. The willowherb is fluffing up in profusion, only the occasional pockets of invasive balsam still looking blousy. There is no sense of an end in nature – just this visible cycle of setting seed for its eternal return. From a certain perspective it can seem pointless, this relentless round of flourish, then dying back, and we can carry the metaphor on to ourselves and our own short time to bear it all witness. It is both the blessing and the curse of our self-awareness. But as we age it seems more that such thoughts are the result of keeping too narrow a view.

Image

Moving on, and pondering a not unrelated topic, I’ve been reading about the ambitions of the so-called transhumanists – also writing about it in that other place here. This is a very particular breed of tech-utopians who truly believe we can transcend our bodies and our minds, by uploading them into a computer. Thus we ensure our immortality – I presume, so long as we keep up with the payments. This seems absurd to my more poetic sensibilities, but I can understand it, when the minds conceiving it are themselves locked in a prison of their own reductionism. Sure, it must seem the only way out, but I prefer my reality the way it is.

Image

We sit down for lunch in the meadows a little further along, by the Turner Embankment. Dramatic contrasts here between a blue-grey cloudy sky and sunlit green. The camera doesn’t appear to be working properly, but this isn’t the camera’s fault. My head is too full of cotton wool to remember the buttons. It’s only by the good graces of the camera fairy we get any pictures at all. We set it aside and take in the view. Tired and aching now, and barely more than a mile gone. But there are butterflies, and the promise of chestnuts along the avenue by Dean Wood. Do children still collect them, I wonder? I remember the conker season at school was always a thrill, brightening up the tedium of the dull place it was my misfortune to attend.

Image

Yes, we find a few chestnuts along the way. It’s squirrels I think, these days, who are my main competitors, but they have left me a couple of fine, fresh specimens among the aromatic leaf mould. But more unexpected, I discover a fuscia bush, flowering in the hedgerow, dainty flowers suspended midair like ballet-dancers. It is another discovery along the way of what I thought familiar, a gift of nature, a friendship made, to be looked up now and then in future seasons.

Image

We climb the steps to Church Meadows and a little way then up the moor road to the tearoom, behind the chapel. It’s busy with pensioners (like me). Always a cheerful, friendly place. I ask for a pot of tea, and the lady tempts me to the sole remaining slice of vanilla cheesecake. It was always going to be an easy seduction. Large notices also urge me to “book now” for my Christmas Lunch. Ah yes, it’s that season where we attempt to shunt the carriages of Christmas-is- a-coming through the inconveniently placed hump of All Hallows.

Outside in the sunshine, we take our time, savouring our cheesecake, only occasionally eavesdropping on our fellows. A table of ladies of a certain age are celebrating a giddy reunion, while on another a pair of armoured mountain bikers swap stories of arduous routes, each trying to outdo the other with their heroics. Meanwhile, in the chapel yard, beneath the Yew, bathed in dappled sunlight, a more contemplative Walt Whitman whispers:

Image

“I give you my sprig of lilac”

It’s a line from his epic “Leaves of Grass”, this bit written in response to the assassination of President Lincoln. It’s an odd connection, a little corner of rural Lancashire and a momentous event in American history. I talk more about Whitman and Rivington here. Early flowering, for him the lilac was a symbol of renewal, a link between the mortal world and the promise of the eternal in nature. I think back to those earlier ruminations on the tech-utopians who would banish the inconvenience of our (or perhaps only their) mortality, and I suspect they might disagree with Walt. For them our mortality is a technical problem, one to be solved by code, while for the poet it is a sacred aspect of the cycle of the natural world.

Image

Suitably refreshed, we retrace our steps a little, then pick up the track around the western shore of the reservoir, deep in the shadow of the Turner Embankment, now. About half way, we come to the face in the wall. Or rather, it is a replica of the original, which was vandalised and disappeared some 40 years ago – though I recently learned the broken original is in a safe place. This one is a fine replacement, and long may he last. Get the full story here. A strange effigy though, and not exactly in celebration, more mockery of an unloved foreman who supervised the construction of the reservoir. He does have a devilish look about him, and is perhaps a reminder of all the unsavoury characters we’ve laboured under ourselves from time to time. Perhaps this isn’t the best note on which to end the walk, so I hand over to Whitman again, who reminds us:

“I do not trouble my spirit to vindicate itself”

Or, roughly translated, forgive and forget.

Image

Early autumn, North of England – no hurry to transcend this particular reality, and when the time comes, sure… I’ll accept my sprig of lilac, and thanks, Walt. But for now the little blue car awaits. You know, I think it’s warm enough to drop the top for the drive home. And yes, I’m feeling much better for the air.

Read Full Post »

Image

The farmer was friendly, returning my wave from the cab of his tractor, as was the young woman speeding ahead on her quad. The shooters, perhaps a dozen of them were less so, catching a ride up the fell in the trailer, their weapons laid upon a bed of straw. I don’t know what they were shooting, but I heard them later, and their rapid volleys did not suggest clays. Then the rain came on and the guns fell silent.

But you catch me closer to the end of the walk than the beginning – the beginning being the pretty little village of Dunsop Bridge (the geographical centre of the UK). It’s a bit of a gloomy day, with a boisterous wind and an early autumn feel to it – the sun in Leo, our northern light at its richest just now, when it can be bothered to shine, that is, and the days have begun their subtle shortenings.

The wild meadows and the ditches are at their fullest — meadowsweet, and rosebay willowherb, and the quieter ways, like the narrow pass between the bounding wall of Thorneyholme Hall and the chattering Hodder, are thick with waist-high butterbur and nettle. The meadows are intermittently deep green, then light where they have been mowed out, so they appear to shine, even on days like this, under a leaden sky.

I don’t know where the year has gone! Already so late in the season, and this is my first visit of the year to the Forest of Bowland. By some miracle they’ve fixed the parking meter in the village. This is usually broken, with an advisory to pay by phone, but since we’re in a dead zone, that’s something of a joke. So you leave your car, always wondering if you’ll come back to a penalty slapped on the windscreen.

Not today though. Today, we set out in confidence and full of virtue at having paid our dues. We take the undulating track that leads us by Knowlmere Manor, down to Giddy Bridge, then meander up the fell. I was last over this way a couple of years ago, still feeling freshly released from the prison of Covid, and enjoying that long holiday feel of the first phase of retirement. I suppose I have to admit I’m used to it now, though I trust I shall never lose the appreciation of the freedom. I certainly haven’t hit that bit where some retirees report boredom and a sense of lacking purpose.

I do still dream of the old workplace sometimes, though no longer with a sense of residual anxiety. I dreamed of it this week actually. I’d been invited back for a visit, then hints were dropped about my returning to the yoke and that I could name my salary. I think the dream projectionist was having a laugh. I didn’t need to think about it, and no, not even in the dream was I tempted.

Not a long walk this, nor a tough one, though I suppose all things are relative – about four and a half miles round and a few hundred feet of gentle up and down. But the scenery is varied and quietly stunning – some good tracks, some vague tracks, and then this lovely stretch of moorland – a modest way, marked by low stone pillars, guiding us gently and eventually to Fielding Clough.

The wind paints waves of silver over a sea of purple moorgrass. The heather is out, not exactly in profusion but enough to brighten our way. We snip a sprig for company, and as a reminder of the day for later. Sometimes I think I can smell the heather, sometimes not – I imagine it has a sweetness to it, like honey, while the moor has a peaty, almost metallic scent.

Lack of identity. That’s something else retirees talk about, but only, I guess, those who strongly identified with their work. Though I recall I did enjoy my work, I can’t say it ever formed the bedrock of an actual ‘identity’. Now, I suppose if I was desperate enough I’d have to call myself a writer, a blogger, maybe even a poet at a push, but I’d have to have had a glass or two, and be feeling full of myself.

I’ll go the muddy moorland way,
And into those dark hills I’ll stray,
With trusty pack upon my back
I’ll,… something, something…

Snippet of an old verse from way back. I was much younger when I wrote that – a touch of Mars about it, conquersome, peak bagging, and all that, but also I recall the feeling of returning from a fell in a more wholesome frame of mind than when I set out. And though that sentiment still applies, I think I’d have a gentler, more observational approach to it these days: the crossing of this bit of moor with the heather dancing and the wind making waves, and the simple here and now of it,… the sense of disappearing into the landscape, or being embraced by it.

We come down to the Hodder by the farm at Burholme. And then the guns. They looked at me quite blank those young men, actually – all of them men. I wonder what they were shooting at. I wonder what they were thinking, looking up at me as I descended the path from the moor, a brotherly wave, seeking kinship. What identity did they pin on me that forbade the return? What was it that “othered” me?

The river makes a wide sweep here and the meadows are often flooded. We have cattle aplenty today, and at their leisure, along the path, we encounter a group of young Friesians gathered around the stile. Cue links to forums where pundits discuss in heated terms the dangers of cattle on public ways. I may yet come a cropper among our domestic bovine friends, but I’ve yet to have a problem. It seems to be a question of reading the mood and, this afternoon, all is calm.

Just a short stretch now, by the chatter of the Hodder, and then a return to the centre of Britain. A village green, ducks, a phone box, with a working telephone, and Puddleducks tea-room. Gloomy skies still, and a few sweeping showers of rain. Always a pleasure to be in Bowland again.

Wind-waves in moorgrass.
Silver tides rise and fall,
among the heather –
not in profusion,
but enough to share
that precious breath of honey.

The Hodder runs,
a gentle chatter
through meadow and rain.
I walk unknown,
neither hunter nor herdsman,
just like the weather,
passing quietly today
over these late summer hills.

Image

Read Full Post »

Image
In Roddesworth

I’m a bit nervous, parking the car by the wayside here at Roddlesworth. It looks like the cows are gathering at the gate, in the meadow up ahead. It’s a bit early (or maybe late) for milking, but I’m wondering if they’ll be herded down this narrow lane, in my direction. A cow’s flanks can crush the side of a car and not even notice. Anyway, after watching them for a bit I don’t think they’re coming out. I’m just catastrophising – an increasingly tempting response to uncertainty – a kind of capitulation ahead of time.

I blame my Substack feed, which has been growing increasingly hysterical and intemperate of late. If you write on there you have to accept back this tide of stuff you neither wished nor asked for. I’ve un-followed everything of a “current affairs” nature, thinking that was driving the algorithm into depths of despair since – let’s face it – things are pretty desperate at the moment. But if anything it’s made it worse. Unlike writing on WordPress, I can’t control what comes back at me, which is too much of everything: America, Ukraine, Gaza,… And yes, I know all of that is real, and growing darker by the day, but there’s nothing I can do about it directly. And that rubs up all wrong against the natural instinct most normal humans have for altruism – that where there’s suffering we want to help out.

Still, here we are, West Pennine’s again. We’ve had a long cold spell through late May and early June, with lots of rain, but things look to be taking up again. Mid-June and we have a riot of colour in the hedgerows with foxglove and cow parsley, comfrey and campion, also a strong scent of herbs rising with the heat. We’re off over Brinscall Moor today, tracing a little trod way among the lost farms, then an even thinner trace of a route along the upper Hatch Brook, across heather and bog cotton, onto Great Hill.

I’ve been lost on Brinscall Moor, depth of winter, a thick mist, and an hour from sunset, so I’ve been making a point of getting more of a feel for it, over the years. On a clear day like this, you navigate by the trees, knowing which of the various lost farms they’re attached to, and then orienting yourself on the map. I could probably get by on a bad day now, but I’d rather not. Days like this are best, when the views are far-reaching.

Image
The Grouse Cottage Sycamore

The curlews are out in force, and musical. I think they must have young in the grass, and they’re anxious about my intentions. We have skylarks too, and I hear a grouse somewhere. I’ve been reading George Monbiot on the creeping desertification of our uplands – or rather their reduction to a monoculture – namely purple moorgrass, which is about the only thing sheep won’t eat. It’s what gives so much of our moorland that uniform beige colour – sheepwrecked, he calls it. But the moors around Brinscall are green – haven’t seen sheep up here for years now, and I count a wide variety of grasses and heath bedstraw – even some opportunistic shrubs beginning to establish themselves. I don’t know if this is planned or the result of economic circumstance rendering sheep worthless.

Image
Remains of Grouse Cottage

Our first milestone is the ruin of Grouse Cottage, and its magnificent sycamores. Then it’s south-east to the fingerpost, and south-west for Popes – just a pile of rubble by the brookside, which we cross by stepping stones. From here we pick up the distant marker that is the stunted beech tree at the ruins of Botany Bay, where we break for lunch.

As a symbol of tenacity in the face of insuperable odds, and terrible weather, the Botany Bay Beech is an inspiration. And we could all use some of that. I have a rummage in the grass for any beech nuts it might have dropped, thinking I could grow one on, but it’s a big tree, a beech – not exactly the sort of thing you’d rear in a pot. Quite a statement though in the back garden, and in a hundred years, it’s not going to be my problem. I pop a couple into my shirt pocket for luck anyway.

Image

Here’s another, slightly more impressionistic shot from several years ago. I think I was trying too hard with the effect. Some say less is more. I don’t know – I do remember the day and the picture sums it up fairly well – gritty sky and squally rain while today is clear blue and blustery, at least on the moor – hot and sultry in the vale.

Image

They’ve erected one of those information boards by the ruin, telling you all about the farm, including a group portrait from the days when it was known as the Summer House. Hard to believe it was a scene of revelry once, a long walk up from Brinscall on a Saturday night, remote and lonely now. Haven’t seen a soul since leaving the car an hour ago.

Another stand of trees brings us to Solomons, then the Far Temple, hardly anything to go on underfoot here – just following the lay of the land as this little isthmus of pastures narrows down to point at Old Man’s Hill. Then we’re up onto the black waste of Withnell Moor with its heather out of season, and contrasting shadings of cotton grass. We can see Great Hill now, the broad green flank of it, and quite intimidating from this angle.

Image
Great Hill across Withnell Moor

We’ll be picking up the main route from White Coppice shortly, which is always busy even on the grimmest of days. So we slow it down and soak up the sound of solitude. It’s different, out here – silence I mean. It’s a silence woven from a million micro-sounds – distinct from popping on a pair of ear defenders – and then you’ve the sigh of the wind and the curlew, distant now, but lovely.

We rest a while on a stile, take in the wide sweep of the moor, views out to a distant Darwen Tower, beyond to Pendle and Longridge fell. I’m feeling quite done in, actually, and not a bit sweaty. It was a late night last night, writing, researching stuff for the new novel. I thought I’d reached a point in my creative years when the flame was beginning to die down – the last few novels have been difficult, but this one’s writing itself – something daemonic driving it, like a deep and powerful engine. So many threads to chase up, and all of them stimulating. It’s no coincidence, I think, that the year has also been rich in dreams – long may it continue.

I know it’s no solution to the problems of the world, cutting oneself off from the fire-hose of online media, but so few of us are in a position to do anything constructive about it. And to shout all caps in the comments section is the same as shouting at the wind, or worse, peeing into it, and only damaging to oneself.

It might sound overly poetic, but those of you struggling with all of this, if you can cultivate your dreams instead of your social media, it’ll put you in a much better place. I’ve long believed we each have inside of us something that knows best what we need, and we have to find a way of trusting it. Better that than some machine algorithm which treats us as a package to be manipulated and sold on. But the world makes such a noise, it’s harder these days than ever to be a dreamer, and be taken seriously.

Anyway, off we go – picking up that main path from White Coppice and, sure enough, we encounter company, but not the chatty sort. This old beardy gent gives me a blank stare in exchange for my greeting. Funny, he has the look of an experienced rambler, and they’re usually good for a passing chat. Then again, he’s neatly togged out in expensive gear – something ironing-board fresh about him – and looking respectable – he perhaps didn’t think the same about me.

At the cross shelter on the summit, someone’s been to the toilet in one corner of it, so we move on, find somewhere else to snack, and top up on water, and where better than the ruins of Pimms – another oasis of green and soaring sycamores on the moor’s edge?

Things are changing. I’m changing. I read it in the dreams. I remember those early years of retirement, and how they felt like I was on holiday. Four years on and it’s different now. This is the way things are – settling in, and no great desire to make an impact in the world. The big camera gets left behind on trips like this more often than not – having worked the fantasy landscape photographer out of my system. Instead, I take this old small sensor zoom, light as a feather, and just for the blogging, which seems a constant, and still satisfying to me as a way of ordering my thoughts. And there are the books, of course. There will always be books to write, for as long as I can keep dreaming.

Image

Down to the old turnpike now, and the sudden shock of traffic. Pick your moment and run, make the crossing, and plunge back into the cover of Roddlesworth. Here, we follow the run of Rocky Brook, pausing only briefly for a shot of the falls. Never managed a good one of this yet – including today. Look at those purple speckles on the water! Here’s another go, more artistically “imagined” by AI.

Image

And then we’re back at the car, cows still safe in the meadow, doing what cows do, and just the lazy hush of a late afternoon. Silence, again, but somehow different to when we set out.

I’m reminded that even when everything feels like it’s falling apart, there are still places – real places, beyond our screens – where you can go and things still hold together pretty much the way they always have. And then perhaps, each of us, by tending to these inner and outer paths, by way of intention, mindfulness just calming the hell down, we might yet heal the world in all those places it really is coming undone.

Five and a half miles round, six hundred feet or so of ascent.

Image

Thanks for listening.

Play me out, Stevie:

Who else remembers this like it was yesterday?

Read Full Post »

Image
The Barr’s Platt crossing – Croston Moss

I read it’s been the driest spring since 1976. Still, while the gardens struggle and lawns turn yellow, this last week has seen a dramatic spurt in the growth of wild flowers, both in the woodland deeps, and the meadow waysides – peak bluebell and wild garlic season. But also your less blowsy specimens, like campion and stitchwort, have been coming on vigorously. A stout column of cow parsley has also sprouted – magic beanstalk fashion – from the middle of my sorry-looking euonymus hedge, seemingly overnight. It looks so cheeky and cheerful, I’m reluctant to pull it out. Round about, the yellow oilseed – brassica napus – is also in profusion. There’s as much of it in the ditches and colonising the fallow lands now, as in the fields where it is cultivated. Oilseed is a master of the great escape!

We’ve been mysteriously inactive of late. A whole week of stunning sunshine and warmth has failed to tempt us out into the hills. Instead, we have been pottering in the garden and reading books, and nothing could overcome our resistance. We have planted various bedders, in anticipation of summer colour – verbena, carnation, and sweet-pea, and whatever else is on offer at Aldi. I suppose it was a feeling that it was just too hot, and better to spend a day with our hands in the soil, interspersed with coffee and books, than raising an uncomfortable sweat on a hill. Still, it’s never stopped us before.

But then we get a slightly cooler day, a freshening breeze, overcast at first, but by evening the sky clears to give the most gorgeous light. And at last we’re tempted out by something magical in the air. Not far – just a little way from the doorstep, and across the moss. At the railway crossing of Barr’s Platt, we are reminded to stop, look and listen. This can be read in many ways – first of all, and obviously, beware of trains! This is a quiet rural crossing, but there have been fatalities. In another sense, there is something almost existential about it – bringing to mind that poem of WH Davies, about having the time to stop and stare.

What life is this if, full of care,…

Image
Hawthorwn blosom

So, stopping to stare, we see the sun is low, the light is liquid, the shadows soft and running long across the meadows. And each meadow, demarcated by ditch and hawthorn, has its pair of resident lapwings – their scratchy call and wheeling flight another of those markers of the season’s turn to better things. And the hawthorn is in blossom, great foamings of it, and especially dramatic against a deepening sky.

From the railway crossing, we follow the line of Cottage Lane – a pleasant green way, at times overgrown and squelchy, when the winter rains overtop the ditches. But this evening it’s clear, clouds of dandelion parachutes are picked out by the low sun, and the ground is firm. There was wheat here last year, but now we have oilseed, and further on, beyond the Finney Wood, there are the combed architectural lines of potato ridges. After such a long dry spell they have the look of concrete, though closer inspection reveals little shoots of grass emerging from the fine friable earth – surviving even the driest of seasons. Here too we can make out the print of fox and rabbit, the heavier trails more likely deer. The moss can at times seem a little sterile, but the deeper ways of nature are still at work here.

Image
Potato Ridges – Croston Moss

Not being a native of these parts, we once viewed the moss with scorn, as an open-air factory. But now, after some thirty-five years, parts of it at least have begun to worm their way into our affections. I guess it’s as much about not looking, as looking, as is the case when we try to ignore the towering presence of power-lines. These seem to intrude into every photograph. But even they have begun to interest – silent this evening, but in other seasons they will fizz and crackle, and in the thick of a winter gale they howl.

Image
Powerline bestride the moss

Hysterical headlines are already crowing about drought and hosepipe bans – another seasonal marker, I suppose – a bit like litter at the wayside of our informational landscape. Which reminds me, perhaps its lack of obvious allure is what spares the moss the trampling we get in other areas of green. There are no dog bags here, no disposable coffee cups, no Mclitter, festering in the hedgerows. It’s not a place worth travelling out to, its points of entry are mysterious, and its charms are subtle. Stop, look and listen.

Image
Stray Oilseed

Sometimes there are water-voles along the ditches – often mistaken for rats, and persecuted. I’ve not seen any for a while, but as we move by a sudden splash will raise our hopes. More likely nowadays it’s a duck or a moorhen who seem to like the privacy these shady ditches afford. Some evenings we’ll be treated to the sight of a lone egret – elegant and ghostly as it takes to the air.

I have the wrong camera with me. It was the only one with any charge. Long zoom, small sensor, it struggles with the fine detail needed to make a landscape really pop, and it makes for noisy skies, too. But shoot long on an isolated subject, it will blur out the background nicely, and I guess that’s the way to use it. Sometimes the wrong choice is the right one, all of which is confusing, I know, like the resistance to getting out on a warm sunny day, when you just know you’ll be sulking as the first fall of rain.

Which reminds me of a quote by Joseph Campbell, something along the lines of: “If the path before you is clear, you’re probably walking someone else’s,” which also calls to mind something similar from Zhuangzi and the old Daoist masters, to the effect of: “You cannot find the Way; the Way finds you.” All of which is to say confusion, muddlement, no clear path,… it’s likely the only assurance we’ll ever get of being on the right path. We’ll say that’s what it means anyway.

The light is going now, the sun grazing the horizon, the distant fells of Bowland are still illuminated and achingly beautiful, but it’s growing shady here, and there’s a mist beginning to rise from the ditches. We circle back round by the Finney, underneath a canopy of chestnuts, a lone candle of creamy blossom directly above the path and catching the last rays. The distant sound of a woodpecker in Finney Wood,…

Stop, look and listen.

Image

About two miles dead flat.

Read Full Post »

Image
White Coppice

There’s not a trace of snow on the hills today, and this only six days after our last outing when we were at times waist deep and needing spikes. Still, it’s a bright day, though the morning was mostly wasted with a sluggish get-up. Late nights and Netflix, and Apple TV+ have much to answer for.

So, a short drive up to White Coppice, today. We leave the little blue car by the village green, and walk the bumpy track to the cricket field. There’s no plan, and not much time anyway. We’re in the mood for something mellow, and the word “Bimble” comes to mind – can’t remember where I first heard it, but it means a leisurely walk.

January has brought with it a death, and a birth. The death was of a splendid old chap, former merchant seaman and plumber, who made it well into his nineties. He was always hale and hearty, generous with his time, and his knowledge. The birth is my first grandchild, a lovely, placid little thing. It’s been a while since there were babies in the family, and I am looking forward to working out what it is grandfathers do.

Anyway, we seem to be heading up the rake towards the first of those Peak and Northern signposts, now. But I’m not in the mood for Great Hill – which is the obvious choice – so peel off along the less elevated way, above the Goit, towards the ruin of Sharrocks. Then we angle up to the skyline, along the rim of an ancient, sunken track, running north-east. I’ve come off the moor this way, in the past, but it’s unfamiliar, and I discover there’s a lovely thorn tree overhanging the way. The sun’s catching it just right, so we spend a while fiddling about with the camera, making its acquaintance.

Image

I’ve been thinking about babies, of course, remembering reading somewhere how their conscious awareness is slow to boot up – if you’ll forgive such a crude tech-phrase inserted into something so precious as life. But in our first months we still lead a fairly simple, internal existence, coming to engage with the outside world only slowly, through touch, feel, and sound. Our eyes are generally poor, unable to focus on anything.

I guess this developing awareness is a process that goes on all our lives, and at the end of it there’s that hooded guy with the scythe. But why a scythe, and not a sword? I guess it’s because he’s not come to simply cut us down, more to reap a harvest.

A little further on we discover another beautifully expressive thorn tree. And to think I nearly didn’t bother turning out today! We’ve been tempted off the path here, though, and it’s a bit of a struggle through knotted whimberry and heather. The tree stands in its own little clearing of close-cropped emerald grass – possibly used by sheep as an oasis of shade, on hot summer days. Again the light is hitting it just right and, after stalking around it for the right angle, we take the shot. Surely, thorn trees are at their best in winter.

Image

On we go, then, still heading upwards – and we thought we weren’t in the mood for a hill! I’m getting a feel for our bearings now as a pair of orphan gateposts appear out of the tussocks, silhouetted against the sky. Then, of a sudden, the moor is alive with the bouncing rumps of roe deer making a hasty escape. Recent years have seen a significant rise in their numbers – I’m encountering them on most of my outings in the West Pennines, now.

I’m not sure of the best route from here. The path is leading us further onto the moor, towards the ruins of the former farm known as Calico Hall. But that’s making for a longer walk than we’ve got time and light for, so we make a cautious zigzag descent in the general direction of Goose Green farm. This was also known as the Green Goose, depending on whether it was serving beer or not. These names aren’t in general use, now, having died out in the Victorian, when all fell into ruin, but you still see them on the old maps. It lends atmosphere, and peoples the moor with friendly ghosts.

From here, we pick up the easy path that runs along Goit. It takes us directly back to White Coppice, and our first encounters with actual people – i.e. not ghosts. The sun is bright, filtered through the trees along the way, clear blue sky, not cold. I think we made the best of the day, from a slow start. It’s an easy saunter, now, back to the village green, and the car.

As we’re peeling off the boots and settling in, the phone pings – some more pictures of my granddaughter. In these early, lovely years, it’s easy to forget that big hill we all have to climb – school, college, work,…. In a way, I’m still climbing it, though more at a more leisurely pace, in retirement, still trying to engage with the world. Sure, there are plenty who settle for a view from the foothills, or even the monotonous plain. But I like to keep going. Even bimbling, I’m sure we’ll get there, eventually.

About two and a half miles, three hundred and fifty feet of fairly gentle up and down

Thanks for listening

Image

Read Full Post »

Image

As we’re leaving the house, we receive a call from someone claiming to be from Amazon’s security department. They greet me with my middle name, and ask if I am well. I reply that I am very well, thank you, then hang up. My Amazon account does not mention my middle name. What dark tides have brought us to these shores, where one can always assume a phone call from a stranger to be a scam, and worse, that developing an instinct for them has become a necessary, and normal part of everyday life. Anyway, on we go.

I suppose we must call it winter now and, as usual, our horizons have narrowed – a mixture of seasonal lethargy, and the limitations imposed by dark mornings, and early sunsets. I’m fortunate that within these horizons, the routes into the West Pennines are still easily accessible within the hours of daylight. So it is, the little roads around Rivington, Anglezarke and White Coppice become a more frequent haunt over the winter months.

The little blue car starts on the last feeble turn of the engine. Two weeks of idle during a cold spell has all but drained her of life. The battery must be ten years old now, but still gets the nod from the guy who does our servicing. We’ll give her a bit of a run today, put her on charge tonight. The brief cold spell looks to be over, now. The ground is softening again, shrugging off the frost, drinking down that recent dusting of snow, and setting the brooks a-chattering once more.

We’re ready for some fresh air.

My middle name is actually my legal first name, but for some reason unknown to me no one has ever used it, so I’ve switched them round. I use it only on official correspondence, dealings with HMG, the NHS, and the dentist. I’m wondering then which of these institutions was so incontinent with my data it ended up in the hands of scammers. The dentist, being a private “provider of premium healthcare solutions”, and somewhat insensitive to potential irony, is my main suspect. Mission statements reveal more than is often intended.

We try not to let this set the tone for our outing, but it does seem to speak to the times, and inevitably renders me thoughtful. I am led to believe I have only to switch my phone on, anywhere in the world, and the powers that be can drop a load on my head. So how is it the scammer fraternity remains so brazen, and apparently untouchable?

We have sunshine today, with only the occasional patches of thin cloud, and vapour trails streaking bright, like slow-motion meteorites. The sun gains little by way of altitude, and is still hanging sunset-low, even by noon, which is roughly when we make it to the little car-park below the Lester Mill quarries. We have a short walk in mind, our objective not being a hill of any sort, but a tight little grouping of trees on a beautiful green sward by the Anglezarke reservoir.

You could call it a photographic trip, then, and we’ll certainly be taking some photographs. But the top and bottom of it is we just want a couple of hours, in familiar surroundings, out of doors. And I like these trees. They are in my top ten, and must be a favourite with many other walkers familiar with the area. I call them The Triptych.

With human affairs poised ever closer to the precipice, it’s tempting to dismiss such idiosyncrasies as the pointless preoccupations of old men, with nothing better to do. But my counterargument runs that we should cling to such things all the more, as they provide us with a valuable reality check. With so many of us living with our heads in our phones, the twisting of information leaves us in a state of not knowing our arse from our elbow.

Image

All current affairs, no matter their source, need fact checking for spin, for significant omission, or outright falsehood. Which means there is something reassuring about a tree, it being true to itself and its environment, as well as being an uncompromising statement of its presence in the world. Oak trees can live for a thousand years, plenty of time to weather the topsy-turvy machinations of us upstart, bonkers hominids.

With the days so short, and the sun so low, it grants an extension of the golden hour, so virtually any time you’re out it needs only a bit of sunlight to juice up the contrasts, and cast long shadows. That said, much of our route here is in the shade of winter woodland, with only the occasional pools of amber to tempt a shot. But I find woodlands difficult places to photograph, and usually with messy results. You don’t notice it at the time you press the shutter, because your eye is focused on whatever you think you saw. But as soon as you look at the resulting photograph, you see the mess of twigs and long grasses poking about everywhere and distracting from your subject. Good woodland photography separates the men from the boys and in this respect at least, I’m still a nipper.

It’s only when we come out of the shade, beyond the Bullough Reservoir, we begin to see the potential. Here, the landscape opens up to a green sward that runs down to the Anglezarke reservoir, which has an indigo tint to it, with sparkles. The sun reflects off the reservoir, so you get an amplification of the light, and I’ve always found it an uplifting place to walk by. A hundred years ago, these reservoirs were a tragedy inflicted upon the landscape by the needs of the industrial revolution. But since I did not know the land in those days, I can say now there is a beauty about them.

Image

The first shots we try with the sun behind us. Our trio of trees is nicely lit, just the smaller one still holding on to autumn foliage. A polarising filter helps bring out detail in the clouds, and this we can further enhance in post-processing. I do have a tendency to overcook my shots, unable to grasp the concept that less is sometimes more. Then we venture up the hill a little way so we get an elevated perspective on the reservoir. I was last here in the early spring. The trees were still bare then, but the gorse was in bloom. It added a bit of colour, and the photographs I took that day generally had a better feel about them. Or it may have been that, back then, it was the summer ahead of us, and not the winter. But we’ll get through to the summer again. Just have to wait a bit longer.

Oak tree crouching now,
shoulder to inclemency.
Waits a thousand years.

Anyway, that’s it for the day. There’s a cold wind coming off the reservoir, now, so let’s head back to the car, and grab a brew from the tea-rooms. She starts better for her run out – mustn’t forget to charge her tonight, though, or we’ll be stuck in the morning.

Thanks for listening.

Image

Read Full Post »

Older Posts »