Buying clothes that don’t harm the planet is like navigating a minefield, with greenwashing claims threatening to suck you under at every turn. Clothes made from 50 percent recycled polyester might sound climate-friendly. But are recycled materials actually the best for the planet? What about vegan options? Or compostable shoes? Will they simply fall off your feet as you’re wearing them? And what on earth does next-gen mean?
Knowing the pros and cons of fashion’s fibres is essential to understanding which of your clothes will live on in landfill—and which will end their life with minimal harm to the planet.
Recycled fabrics
Before we get into the pros and cons of recycled textiles, let’s clarify which kind of recycling we’re talking about. Closed-loop recycling indicates that a material is recycled into the same product as it previously was. And open-loop recycling is when a material is recycled into a whole new product category.
You’ve probably seen brands from H&M to ASOS shout about their clothes made from recycled plastic bottles. Sounds great, right? But this open-loop recycling method isn’t as planet-friendly as it might appear. Washing clothes made from plastic (whether that plastic is recycled or virgin) releases microplastics into the ocean. Secondly, turning a plastic bottle into polyester fibre means it can only be recycled once. Whereas, if it were to be recycled into a plastic bottle, that process could be repeated at least 10 times. So, using plastic bottles to make our clothes means that plastic will reach landfill much faster.
As for closed-loop recycling? In reality, less than one percent of clothes are recycled into new clothes. Look out for brands with true circularity in place. Hints include lifetime guarantees, making clothes with recycled textiles or operating take-back schemes that repurpose clothes into new garments.
Know your clothing certifications inside out
When shopping for clothes, choosing the least harmful material isn’t the only thing to be aware of. Check out the standards and certifications that brands use, then cross-reference them against helpful guides like this one to fact-check a brand’s sustainable claims.
Compostable or biodegradable options
Have you been using the terms ‘compostable’ and ‘biodegradable’ interchangeably? Did you know that they actually have different meanings? Compostable materials break down in a few months to produce nutrient-rich biomass but require a specific setting to do so. Meanwhile, biodegradable materials will degrade anywhere and everywhere. However, this process takes many years and can leave toxins behind. Crucially, all compostable materials are biodegradable but not all biodegradable materials are compostable.
A paradox to consider is that compostable clothes likely won’t be made from recycled materials and might not be vegan. Trainer brand SOLK recently released the world’s first compostable sneaker, which lists leather as a main fabric. While some people may not be comfortable wearing animal fabrics, compostable materials that won’t stick around in landfill are a great option for your clothes.
Next-gen materials
If you’ve come across clothes made from pineapple skin or plant-based leather, then you’ve encountered next-gen materials. Defined as innovative fibres that have a better environmental impact than conventional materials, next-gen fibres are set to make up eight percent of the market by 2030, according to Fashion For Good.
While some solutions might sound super cool (banana Balenciaga, anyone?), remember to ask some crucial questions. Can they be recycled into fresh fibres? Does the next-gen material brand have a circular system in place? And what percentage of the product contains the next-gen material in the first place?
Get ready for Digital Product Passports
Mandatory in the EU from 2027, Digital Product Passports will show you information about the material your clothes are made from when you scan the QR code in your clothing label. Read more about the solution here.
Vegan options
Stating that clothes are vegan sounds undoubtedly climate-friendly. But from faux fur to pleather, vegan alternatives to animal skins are usually made from nothing more than plastic. While it’s beneficial to avoid the direct animal cruelty that persists in the leather and fur industries, producing vegan polyester alternatives harms the environment, destroying animals’ habitats and ecosystems. In turn, this hurts animals, too. There’s no clear-cut answer here for fur and leather fans. But just remember that ‘vegan’ clothes might not be as ethical as they seem.
Organic textiles
Organic production methods don’t use pesticides, minimising harm to the environment and animals. They also likely earn farmers a higher wage and often require less water to produce. But organic fabrics are still virgin materials and aren’t necessarily compostable. If you are buying organic, make sure to check whether the item is 100 percent organic, rather than simply containing organic fibres.
Plant-based fibres
Using language like ‘all-natural’ or ‘plant-based’ is a way for brands to suggest their products are sustainable without saying a whole lot else. Spoiler: these terms are ideal for greenwashing. For example, cotton is a plant-based, all-natural fibre that also happens to harm the environment via its high water consumption, use of pesticides and degradation of soil quality. If a brand uses terms like plant-based, make sure they’re transparent about the materials their clothes are made from.
The very best material? None at all
As you can see, checking the materials of the clothes you buy is an essential step in minimising the environmental impact of your wardrobe. But before you begin adding all things compostable to your shopping basket, remember that the best material to purchase is none at all.
Choosing secondhand clothes is one way to cut down textile production, while reducing your overall consumption minimises climate impact across the whole fashion supply chain. Check out our guide to sustainable fashion apps for advice on how to keep your wardrobe as green as possible.
