Cargo Pants

The new Cargo Capri Pants! I altered the Doll Coordinate Recipe pattern for Cargo Shorts and made them into capri pants for Penelope.

The cargo pockets were a little time-consuming, but I think they were worth the effort!




Penelope likes her new cargo pockets! She's off to the beach! Ta ta for now...

And We're Back!

Hi Blythe Crocheters!

The ThreadDough blog is open again!

It is taking longer than I thought it would to get my patterns setup in Ravelry. So, I think I will keep this blog open...even if and when I get my patterns up on Ravelry. So, I hope you will continue working on your little ThreadDough Shawl-Collared Sweaters for your beautiful Blythe girls.
:o)

ThreadDough Shawl-Collared Sweater

©2008 ThreadDough



I'm so happy to be able to share this new pattern with you! I just finished editing the pattern one last time. It took a few prototypes to get the shaping right. (So Penelope now has 3 different versions of the same sweater... small, medium and large! ha ha.)

It has buttonholes that really work:




The collar can also be worn up for a different look:




If you are just beginning to learn crochet, please don't go away! I have written this pattern with step-by-step instructions so that you can try it, too. For you speedy crocheters, I'm sure you'll be able to skim through a lot of this pattern. Please excuse my lengthy explanations.

When learning a new pattern, I find it useful to crochet as I am reading the instructions on the computer screen. This way, if I forget a certain stitch, I can quickly mouse over to some other web site tutorial for quick help.

Oh! One more thing... you are cordially invited to stop by the flickr group, Threaddough Café. There, you can post a photo of your new sweater. Please don't be shy...see you there!

Thanks for taking the time to visit my blog. I do hope you like the pattern! :o)

*******
Please note:
This pattern is for personal use only.
Thanks.
*******

Shall we begin?

Part I: Basic Stuff
Part II: Making the Back of the Sweater
Part III: Making the Front Halves of the Sweater
Part IV: Putting Together the Pieces
Part V: The Edging
Part VI: The Collar
Part VII: Armholes and Buttonholes

Pattern Clarification: Shawl-Collared Sweater

Today I made the back and front of the sweater again with fresh eyes after not working on this pattern for a week or so. I made two corrections to the pattern. I guess they are more clarifications than corrections. If you are a regular crocheter, you may have skimmed past these points. Nonetheless, I edited the pattern to add:

BACK OF SWEATER:
Rows 4 & 5: At the end of both rows, I added "Chain 2 and turnover."

The pattern on this blog has been corrected as such.
Thanks. I hope that didn't cause any issues for you.

Part VII: Armholes and Buttonholes

Finishing the Armholes

Here, Penelope is showing you how nicely the shaping of the back and front of the sweater fits on her:



Also, you can see how the armhole is finished? We will do that now:

Put crochet hook into a chain to be worked (somewhere along the bottom of the armhole would be good). YO and pull through the chain. You now have a starting loop on hook to begin crocheting. Make a Single Crochet in each chain around the armhole. Cut and tie off. Weave in ends. Repeat with other armhole.

***

Buttonholes and Buttons

The nice thing about the double crochet edging is that it automatically created buttonholes for you! :o) So all you have to do is pick two buttons and sew them where you like.

Penelope has chosen this type of doll button for the sweater:



***

Congratulations! Now it is time to do a little happy dance!

You have just finished the
ThreadDough Shawl-Collared Sweater
for your special Blythe doll!

Hooray for you!
And hooray for your dolly!

I'd love to see your beautiful sweater... please feel free to stop by the ThreadDough Café (flickr group) and post a photo of your sweater. Please don't be shy! See you there!



I hope this pattern was helpful to you and that you had a little fun making something new for your Blythe doll wardrobe. Thanks so much for taking the time to try out this pattern! :o)

If people find patterns like this useful, I would be happy to create and share some new patterns here on the blog. Afterall, our Blythes are always happy to get one more piece of clothing, especially if it's made by you with love. <3

Take care and I'll talk to you later!
:o)


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Part VI: The Collar

Now, slip stitch all the way around until you get to about two chains before the straight button placket starts to turn into the curved collar edge. (Please see next photo. )

Here is Penelope wearing the collar up so you can see where we are talking about. I drew a box around the area:



In the next chain to be worked, make one Half Double Crochet. In the next chain to be worked, make one more Half Double Crochet. This helps smooth the transition from SS to DC. Now you can continue in dc for the rest of the collar area. When you get the end of the collar area (on the opposite side), you will stop the dc, make two Half Double Crochet and the Slip Stitch again around the rest of the edge of the sweater. When you get to the last ss, connect it the first ss (that started this round) with a ss. Cut and tie off. Weave in ends.

Yay! You have just finished the shawl collar of the Shawl-Collared Sweater!

*******

Hurry! It's the last part...
Part VII: Armholes and Buttonholes

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Part V: The Edging

Ok! We are almost done with the sweater! Yay! You are doing great!

The collar is actually formed by itself as we crochet all the way around the edge of the sweater.

If you want the edging and collar to be in a contrasting thread color, now is the time to use the different thread. Also, decide which side of the sweater (the nicer looking side) will be the outside.

We will begin crocheting the edging at the BOTTOM edge of the sweater's BACK. Looking at the outside BACK of the sweater, turn it upside down. Pick a chain somewhere in the middle of the sweater's bottom edge to begin with. Put the crochet hook into the first chain to be worked that you have chosen. YO with the new crochet thread and pull it through the chain. Chain 2. Now, make one double crochet in each "chain" around the edge of the sweater. Not all the chains to be worked will be perfect since we are working with end of rows in some places. Just do the best you can.

When you get all the way around to the FRONT BOTTOM corners of the sweater, you will need to dc 5 times in the corner chain in order to nicely go past the 90 degree corner. See how the corners below the buttons/buttonholes are:



Have you dc around the entire edge of the sweater one time? Good job. Now you should be back where you started. If you just finished the last dc, you will be right next the the first "chain 2" you made earlier. Slip Stitch to the top of this "chain 2" post. (You will be putting the hook into the chain#2 of the "chain 2". )

*******

Now we will continue the edging which will become the collar in...
Part VI: The Collar

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Part IV: Putting the Pieces Together

Now we JOIN the three pieces together into one! After this step, you can begin to see the sweater taking shape! Keep up the great work, you are already more than halfway there to a nice new sweater for your Blythe girl!



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I used the mattress stitch to assemble the pieces together. You can use whatever way you are comfortable with. For a tutorial on some basic joining techniques, you can take a look at http://crochet.about.com/library/weekly/aa010999.htm

Join each of the two front halves to the back piece at the shoulders. Just be a little careful that the front halves are facing the right way. (One time I had sewed them on the wrong way and had to take the sweater apart! Oh well. Now I am more careful at this step! )

*The two front halves should be mirror images of each other. *
** The ARMHOLE IS THE MORE VERTICAL CURVE. **


Join at the sides.

So that is a total of four joins: two at the shoulders and two at the sides.
Here is what the sweater looks like after all four joins are finished:



My personal experience with joining these tiny pieces is that it's best to go slow. Take your time, it is not a race. Sometimes the angles weren't quite right and I'd have to take it apart and start over. It takes a little patience, but eventually the pieces can come together with a little coaxing. I try to remind myself that these edges we are joining together are not perfectly straight... so it's ok if the joins are not 100% perfect.

*******

Ready to make this sweater extra lovely?
Let's go on to Part V: The Edging

*******

Part III: Making the Front Halves of the Sweater

This pattern is for HALF of the Front of Sweater
(So you need to make two of these.)



Chain 11.
Starting at 3rd chain in, make 9 dc (one in each chain)
Total number of "fence posts" in this row should be 10.
Chain 2 and turnover.

Row 2:
Starting at 2nd chain in, make 9 dc (one in each chain)
Chain 2 and turnover.

Row 3: (We decrease in this row. )
ch#1 skip (as usual)
ch#2 dc
ch#3 and #4 double chain decrease (dcd) together
ch#5 and #6 dcd
ch#7 and #8 dcd
ch#9 dc
ch #10 dc

Chain 2 and turnover.
***

Row 4:
Starting with 2nd chain in, make 6 dc (one in each chain)
Chain 2 and turnover.

Row 5:
Same as Row 4.

Row 6: (We increase in this row. )
ch#1 skip (as usual)
ch#2 dc
ch#3 2dc
ch#4 2dc
ch#5 2dc
ch#6, 7 make one dc in each chain
Chain 2 and turnover.

Row 7:
ch#1 skip
ch#2, 3 slip stitch (ss)
ch#4, 5, 6, 7, 8 make one dc in each chain
Chain 2 and turnover.

Row 8:
ch#1 skip
ch#2, 3 make one dc in each chain
Chain 2 and turnover.

Row 9:
ch#1 skip
ch#2, 3 make one dc in each chain

Cut and tie off.

Yay! You have just made one half of the front. Great job! :o)
Please make one more just like this one. Then you will have both front halves for the sweater!

*******

Did you finish the second front half? Good job. Now, if you want to do a neat job, now is the time to go ahead and block the 3 sweater pieces we have made so far -- the large BACK piece we made in Part II and these two FRONT HALVES we just finished in Part III.

When they are dry, I'll see you in Part IV!

*******

Part IV: Putting the Pieces Together

*******

Part II: Making the Back of the Sweater

This is what the back of sweater looks like:



Chain 21.
Starting with the 3rd chain in from the end (right side) make one Double Crochet (dc) in each of the 19 chains. (Don't forget the sneaky chain on the end that likes to hide. ) When you are finished with this row, there should be 20 "fence posts" if you include the first two chains we skipped. Chain 2 and turn over (TO).

Row 2:
Starting with 2nd chain in from end, again make one DC in each of the 19 chains to be worked. Total fence posts in this row: 20 including beginning two chains.
Chain 2 and TO.

Row 3: (we make decreases in this row)
There are 20 chains across.
From right to left, I have numbered them ch#1, ch#2, ch#3, etc.

ch#1 skip (as usual)
ch#2 dc
ch#3 dc
ch#4 dc
ch#5 and ch #6 Double Chain Decrease (dcd)
cd#7 and ch#8 dcd
ch#9 dc
ch#10 dc
ch#11 dc
ch#12 dc
ch#13 and ch#14 dcd
ch#15 and ch#16 dcd
ch#17 dc
ch#18 dc
ch#19 dc
ch#20 dc
chain 2
turnover.

Yay! First row of shaping completed!
-------------------------------------
row 4:
starting at 2nd chain in, make 15 dc (one in each chain)
There should be 16 "fence posts" in this row if you include the beginning chain 2.
Chain 2 and turnover.

row 5:
starting at 2nd chain in, make 15 dc (one in each chain)
There should be 16 "fence posts" in this row if you include the beginning chain 2.
Chain 2 and turnover.

row 6: (we increase in this row)
ch#1 skip (as usual)
ch#2 dc
ch#3 dc
ch#4 dc
ch#5 2 dc (make two dc in this same chain)
ch#6 dc
ch#7 2 dc
ch#8 dc
ch#9 dc
ch#10 2dc
ch#11 dc
ch#12 2dc
ch#13 dc
ch#14 dc
ch#15 dc
ch#16 dc

So you have a total of 20 "fence posts" if you also count the beginning "chain 2".
Cut and tie off.
Turnover so that the cut thread is on the right side.

Row 7:
At ch#5 from the right side, chain 2.
Starting with ch#6 (from the right side), make 11 dc (one in each chain).
The total "posts" in this row should be 12 if you include the begining chain 2.
Chain 2 and turnover.

Row 8:
2nd chain in, make 11 dc, one in each chain.
Chain 2 and turnover.

Row 9:
2nd chain in,
ch#2,3,4 make one dc in each chain
ch#5,6,7,8 make one slip stitch in each chain
ch#9,10,11,12 make one dc in each chain

Cut and tie off.
Congratulations! You have finished the back of the sweater!

*******

Let's continue to....
Part III: Making the Front Halves of the Sweater

*******

Part I: Basic Stuff

ThreadDough Shawl-Collared Sweater Pattern
©2008 ThreadDough

Technique: Thread Crochet

Description: Sleeveless sweater is crocheted with shaping for a more fitted look. The shawl collar can be worn up or down. Functioning buttonholes allow front closure of sweater.




Crochet Stitches Used:
Chain
Slip
Single Crochet
Double Crochet http://crochet.about.com/library/bldoublecrochet.htm
Half Double Crochet http://crochet.about.com/library/blhalfdouble.htm
For a tutorial of crochet stitches, one site you can refer to is:
http://crochet.about.com/od/learnbasics/a/beginners.htm


Techniques:
Shaping (Double Crochet Decrease discussed later)
Joining Crocheted Pieces

Crochet Needles Size: 7/1.65 mm
Crochet Thread Size: 10


Gauge:
12 Double Chain per 3.5 cm (horizontal)
5 rows Double Chain per 4 cm (vertical)





The Shaping Technique:
There are 3 separate pieces to crochet: the back and two front halves.

All three pieces use decreasing or increasing stitches at certain places to contract or expand the crocheted fabric. Doing this "shapes" the finished fabric to curve in or out, creating a nice fitting sweater without extra sweater bulkiness.


This pattern primarily uses Double Crochet (dc).


To INCREASE, we will crochet two dc stitches into the next chain to be worked. (We usually only make one dc in the next chain to be worked.


To DECREASE, we will DOUBLE CROCHET DECREASE (dcd).

At least that's what I call it:
You will already have one working loop on the crochet hook. (1 loop)
Yarn Over (YO) (now there are 2 loops on hook)
Put crochet hook into next chain
YO
Pull up yarn through the chain, creating a loop on the hook (3 loops now on hook)
Put crochet hook into next chain
YO
Pull up yarn through the chain, creating a loop on the hook (now 4 loops on hook)
YO and pull this yarn through the 3 loops closest to it (now 2 loops left on hook)
YO and pull this yarn through the remaining 2 loops on hook
now you should be left with 1 working loop to continue crocheting with.


Did it work? Yay! It takes more time to write the instructions that to do the stitch. Once you do a few dcd, it will seem easier. Basically, what it does is combine two dc from the previous row into one dc in the current row. Since one dc takes less space than 2 dc, this "shrinks" the fabric we are creating. Do enough of these dcd stitches together and that area of the fabric will go inward, creating the nice fitted area of the sweater's waistline.

*******
Please note:
This pattern is for personal use only.
Thanks.
*******

Ok! Ready to begin the back piece of the sweater? Let's go to... Part II: Making the Back of the Sweater

*******

Crocheting for Blythe

Just a few words about crocheting for our dear Blythes...

Crochet has been used for many generations as lovely way to dress our beloved dolls. Antique all-bisque dolls through to today's modern plastic gals have been dressed in clothes that were patiently made by crochet hook and yarn or thread.

The first choice I usually make when crocheting for Blythe is whether I will crochet with "regular" yarn or crochet thread. Each will give the finished product a different look and feel. Also, different thicknesses of yarn/thread require different crochet hooks. You can usually find the crochet hook size required for a particular yarn/thread on its wrapper label. In the store, the yarn, thread and crochet hooks are usually displayed close together.

The general rule of thumb is that if you think that you will need more than one skein of yarn of the same color for making your project, then it is best to buy the number of skeins you will need at the same time, from the same dye lot. You should be able to find the dye lot number on the wrappers. (However, since Blythe clothes are so small, I've usually made several items of clothing from one ball of thread. )



My personal preference when crocheting for Blythe is thread crochet, or as some people call it, "small crochet". It can look lace-like and the stitches are a little more in scale with a doll's body. However, "regular" crochet with yarn can make very beautiful clothes for your Blythe as well. In general, it is also a little quicker because yarn is thicker than thread and therefore, every stitch you make builds up the final product faster.

As for learning the actual crochet stitches, there are many good sources of instruction for this. You can take a class, read a book or learn from a friend! One web site you can refer to is: http://crochet.about.com/od/learnbasics/a/beginners.htm

Crocheting is a lovely way to add some different textures to your Blythe girl's wardrobe. If all goes according to plan, I will be adding some of my own crochet patterns for Blythe clothes here on this blog for you to try out. So be on the lookout for your favorite yarns and threads! The possibilities are up to you!