Posted in Ankara, Cats, Markets, Ulus on June 3, 2014| 3 Comments »
Carpet and Kilim Vendors
Hat Vendor
Shoe Vendor
A Trinkets Vendor at the top of the hill and the bottom of the castle.
Basket Vendors. This is also the stray cat transit route from the bottom of the hill to the tops of the homes and businesses.
She made that climb look so easy even with that belly.
Coffin Vendor
Posted in Ankara, Milestones, Parenting, projects, Ulus, tagged Ulus on May 31, 2014| 1 Comment »
Pull up a chair and sit with me a while. It feels like forever since I sat to write down thoughts from our daily lives here in Ankara. Most of that has been because of being psychotically busy. When there is a moment of time, there is often no energy. But mostly it is because the thoughts in my mind have been jumbled, swirling, forming, and waging wars against internal editors of common sense/censors. It is time, though, and I have time. The morning is clear and cool and quiet. The tea is hot.
Comfy chairs outside an Ulus store.
Prom happened. A university was chosen. Dakota is now a future Lobo at the University of New Mexico, in “Albuquirky” as she calls it. She recently spent a lovely week in Germany where her soccer team not only came in dead last, but also received many compliments on how friendly and enjoyable they were and how they made everyone they met feel. One teammate sustained a pretty nasty concussion. To say the least, it wasn’t the trip that they all were looking forward to.
Jackson is involved in scouts and soccer and has after school activities where he is learning to play hockey. He has some interesting events he is really excited about that we are in the middle of plans for. He is growing like crazy and seems to have a one track mind for ramen noodles which he prefers to prepare himself. He survived being in a massive hail and downpour squall that caught him and friends off guard while outside playing. The red welts on his arms and legs go well with the shiner he picked up last weekend from another outdoor play with friends. He’s looking pretty rough, but adorably growing up as well.
This is an old photo taken in Beypazar back in late autumn. I love the interaction of the family members and friends. It is what drew me to quietly snap their photo.
I’ve spent a lot of time lately driving in the car around Ankara to get to and from meetings and to get children to and from pickups/drop-offs. I can swerve and honk with the best/worst of them now and it doesn’t faze me, much. Being out and about has helped me learn more about the city.
I have found a refugee camp that goes unnoticed right under everybody’s noses and daily business. They are truly invisible but in pure sight. The beggars on the corner are increasing. It is heartbreaking. You could give and give and it wouldn’t be enough. I have heard of numbers swelling, of scuffles between refugees and locals, of backlogs and need. I heard the rumor that there were hunger strikes and protests where refugees were sewing their mouths shut to bring attention to unfair practices at the UN. That rumor is true, it seems, and has been done by a handful of Afghan refugees who are experiencing some very difficult circumstances in their quest to find a safe and welcoming place to have a life. I had heard the rumor, though, about a couple months back, so I wonder how many have done this before it was reports in the news – or at least in this English version of this Turkish newspaper. There was another rumor of some restructuring going on in one particular refugee assistance group – so there may be new opportunities to serve in the next year.
A back patio style seating area behind a small store, off a side street path in Ulus
My PTSO commitments are winding down. A new board was selected and they are a great group of ladies who are very capable and talented, so a lot has been getting things handed off. There have been final meetings, too. I just have a few last bits to wrap up for the scholarship committee. I was up til 1am the other night folding and assembling special bulletins for graduation. It felt so good waking up with it accomplished and even better delivering the product. My impromptu happy dance was joined by the office staff still which had us all cracking up. And with each bit, comes more excitement for our daughter’s approaching graduation milestone. Times are good. Although I am glad I stepped up and took on a leadership role with PTSO, I am also very ready to walk away and have that behind me. I think that I am better suited for a support/behind the scenes kind of helping. The front line is brutal at times as much as it can be rewarding; many times I was way out of my comfort zone. I grew a lot this year and I think I helped make a difference. I also had to make some decisions to say no, to disappoint others, to draw lines, and to be judged all the time, not just about the school support, but also perceptions of how I supported my children. My skin wasn’t always thick enough.
One family in Ulus chats to another from their balconies.
In January, we chose to move our son from this school to another: the pre-move battles, the fallout, the two school schedules, having to become a twice a day taxi because the new school’s bus service was unavailable for the remainder of the year. Jackson is in a very good place now. Adjustments haven’t always been the smoothest, but we are 100% convinced we did the right thing for him despite the complications to us all. He is thriving. And as he has told us numerous times, “Mom, we’re ok. You know this is a first world problem.” Such wisdom. He also, now that he has MUN (model united nations) as a class, frequently addresses any complaints of parental decisions with rebuttals along the lines of “the delegation of Jackson greatly objects to the oppressive tactics of the dictatorship delegate of mom regarding sanctions against …..” He’s actually quite good, which is lucky for him because I find myself smiling despite the frustration of insisting for the third time that he hang up clothes or he will lose some privileges.
Now… to enjoy my daughter’s graduation, my mom’s visit, celebrating with other senior parents, to watch my son have amazing school opportunities and travels, to see my daughter have her first real job, to experience more of Turkey, to play with the dogs, to clean my house from the spawn of Wookie fur bunnies that her shedding has let loose all over, to snuggle my 100 pound lap dog and to sit and have tea and laughter with friends, to look forward all the lavender going into bloom. I had heard the rumor that although adversity can destroy, it also can bring many blessings and growth. It really is spring here. Lots of new beginnings. I’m thriving too.
I love this bench made from ancient ruins. I found it along the back side streets of Ulus.
Thanks for sitting with me a bit. Now that you’ve heard me chattering on, please do let me know what is going on with you. Send emails or old fashioned letters; leave a comment. I will be making calls soon to catch up with you. Blogging is great, but so one sided. And I miss my friends and family all around the world.
Posted in Ankara, Crafts, Markets, Turkey, Ulus, tagged exploring the markets, Morning People, Ulus on May 5, 2014| Leave a Comment »
The old section of Ulus early in the morning is the best for many reasons. I love being out when a neighborhood is just waking up and getting started for the day. Going by bus, you join the morning commuters: students, government workers, families in transit. You pass the simit and lottery ticket vendors as you make your way to the steep road that takes you up near the citadal. Shop keepers are getting ready for the day. Going by car, you are the first going into narrow empty streets and into the parking lot for a prime spot to easily extract yourself later. Either way: it is smooth. The day hasn’t started, the tourists haven’t started. The roads and pathways belong to just the locals and it stays this way until the lunch hour. Mornings in Turkey go slow and draw you in.
The store above shows off kilims and carpets in the morning sun. I just love looking at the colors and patterns. I also love people watching. Since this part of Ulus is first and foremost a neighborhood there are often greetings among vendors and friends. The three older men walking in a seemingly random pace all meet up and continue on together without much surprise. It feels like they are old friends on a well worn path. I wonder if they have known each other their whole lives, and how awesome that would be to live in a place with old friends to meet up with on a regular basis.
Antiques, and replicas and trinkets are all displayed along the narrow sidewalk to lure in possible customers – especially on a fresh spring morning. And in front of almost every shop there is some sort of seating for vendors to enjoy the sunshine and fresh air while catching up with visiting friends. Relationships are central and defining in Turkey; there is always time for friends and family.
The locals take breaks after morning preparations for the soon to arrive tourists. Some places like this little restaurant below are just within an eye’s glance of the bus drop offs. I prefer the periphery and beyond because the closer you get to the castle the more often you are treated like a number. It is the difference of a business looking for a one time get what you can profit and a business that establishes a relationship with you, knowing you will come back, make recommendations, and bring friends. I guess because I am not quite a tourist but never a local I am always looking for a place that feels like I belong. It doesn’t have to be fancy. It just needs to feel welcoming.
The further you go, the more you find shops that blend tourist with collector with local life needs. This man below is reinforcing an old wood trough with cooper sheeting. There are a few stores that have weathered wooden household items such as doors, window frames, tools, and farm troughs. My favorite find that I haven’t bought yet is an old wooden lambs feeding trough. It is carved with sections for each lamb’s portion and has evidence of little teeth grooves from nibbling down to the last bits. I would have it down the middle of my dining table as a runner of sorts with candles, condiments, decoration, etc. Maybe if we next move someplace that a full dining table would fit into our home, I will get it. Until then, I dream and look through stacks and bits of other people’s lives.
The store behind this man is a coffin shop. Real life, real Ulus, real needs.
There are many men working their trades here, not just the one above. You will hear the tapping of hammers as copper is bent and dimpled into bowls. Kilims are repaired or sewn into new creations. And just a turn or two away are the narrow streets that more resemble extravagant pathways, connecting homes and neighborhoods beyond, holding the hopes and dreams of the locals who care for these streets and businesses when the tourists buses go away each night.
The ratio of women working in Ulus seems to be quite low. There are a couple female pharmacists at the local eczane, a wonderful woman in a popular Turkish goods store, a couple of artists (one paintings and one fabrics), two women sewing the famous Turkish “M C Hammer Pants” and the women along the gauntlet of stairs approaching the castle. They are not as aggressive as many gauntlets in other tourists areas. And when you greet them in Turkish they respond with genuine gentleness. It was quite disarming, actually.
Posted in Ankara, Ulus, tagged exploring the markets, Ulus on May 4, 2014| Leave a Comment »
First bulk market store I’ve seen that accepts Visa. You KNOW all the tourist buses (many packed with Turks, too) all pull up and stop right in front of this store on the way into the citadel.
My first year here in Ankara I didn’t get out much. Where my days consisted of language class, dogs, kids and school and just getting settled – those with freer days boasted of Ulus and other adventures. Finally this year I got to see what all the fuss was about.
Ulus is a whole district of the city, encompassing a few sordid streets, old and new neighborhoods, government buildings, shopping rows, more shopping streets, Ankara’s oldest history. This, Ulus, was the city center from the beginning and all of Ankara has spread out from here. It is the citadel, the Roman baths, and the column of Julian, the temple of Augustus, the oldest pharmacy, and markets that have been going on first to serve the local population for decades, if not centuries.
There is a definite tourist path, beaten down by huge busloads that come one after the other now that the weather is nicer. Prices are higher, and some selections are not as good. The Ulus that has intrigued me is off this path, though. I think that maybe I need to just make a section of posts about this unique section of Ankara.
Posted in Ankara, Friday Photo, Ulus, tagged Ulus on April 25, 2014| Leave a Comment »
Posted in Ankara, Eating Out, Food, Ulus, tagged street vendors, Ulus on April 24, 2014| 1 Comment »
Ankara is a pretty hilly place. Driving those hills, especially in winter, can be a bit unnerving. Walking those hills — even more so. So when you take those hills and you add a simit vendor, the balance is amazing. This vendor had one of the highest stacks of the yummy Turkish bread balanced on his head on one of the steepest hills in Ulus. All over the country you will find vendors like this, walking along the streets and alleys with the simit balanced atop in high stacks, and a small portable tray stand in one hand or slung over their shoulder. They shout out to the neighborhood their presence and set up shop wherever they find the customers. I may have to do one post that just has various simit vendors.
Posted in Ankara, projects, Ulus, Uplifting Stories, tagged Learning Something New, potions master, working hard on April 22, 2014| 3 Comments »
In Turkey, if you need medication you go to the neighborhood ECZANE (pharmacy). They are all over the city, usually with a neon sign out front to indicate that they are there and are open. They also usually have a male mannequin with only boxer shorts on sporting several bandaged appendages in case you need further visual confirmation that they do carry all your health needs inside.
But the eczane I’m going to introduce you to is not typical. Located in the Ulus section of town, this is the first pharmacy in Ankara – ergo the oldest. It is also just one of three that still makes its own medicines. Plus, the senior pharmacist is legendary.
Here is Jackson outside the Durman Pharmacy where he ‘apprenticed’ for three days during his school’s “Work Study Week”.
Mr. Niyaz Dermanci is almost 90 and still comes in to the pharmacy to take consultations, often making the medication required himself. The second day of Jackson’s ‘job’ I got to see him in action while waiting for my son to finish up his work. Of course I didn’t bring my camera that day, but I got to observe. There was a line of several people all in the back end of the store and he met with each one – fully engaged in listening, observing, asking questions, taking notes then giving information. Each client seemed welcomed, at ease, and relieved upon speaking with this octogenarian who was responsible for opening the very first pharmacy in Ankara. There was a peace that just accompanied him. You could tell that he loved what he was doing. It wasn’t a job to him. It was a calling. Jackson got to watch him in action too, as well as the entire pharmacy staff.
“can not find a cure to the disease, the breath is taking on veteran pharmacist” Google Translate is worthless, and yet I still go there for help
Jackson and his classmate learned all about the pharmacy business. They watched an interesting movie on drug use that wasn’t the typical “Don’t do it” – but explored the effects of a performance enhancement pretend drug on your mentality and physical health. Here is the trailer to Limitless (yay for private internet as YouTube is still blocked here!). They got to wear lab coats and rubber gloves and they actually made things like wound disinfectant, lotion, cologne, and placebo pills. They learned about how the computer is used in their business – tracking merchandise and purchases (not just for video games, boys!). Of course, on their break time they got to play some games.
The only photo I got of my son in his lab coat. They were perched up on a ledge along the back. I think they were playing on his friend’s tablet during a break. Another bad parenting example – my child does not have a tablet and he wasn’t allowed by us to take any electronics with him. Will he grow up hating us for this or will it build character and personal interaction like we hope?
Here is the group on the last day. The boys were presented with framed work study completion certificates that would rival any framed university degree. They were also spoiled with Turkish tea breaks throughout their days working there – Jackson always chose apple tea – and Turkish lunches. I wonder when Jackson is all grown up and he ventures into a Turkish restaurant in some random town for a meal, will the food remind him of this incredible opportunity to work at a pharmacy in Ulus? This was his first real immersion on his very own.
And here are some of the products that he got to make in the laboratory. For a child who has always been a ‘potions master’ in the making from birth, I wonder how this opportunity will shape him and his career choices. Regardless what he chooses, I am thrilled that he had this experience and at this business. Between their hospitality and educational guidance, this was a huge highlight in our experience here at post.
Posted in Ankara, Cars & Transportation, Parenting, Ulus, tagged Learning Something New, parenting a tween, raising a tween on April 21, 2014| Leave a Comment »
We walked down the streets in the Ulus section of Ankara a couple weeks back. My son had an incredible opportunity through his school for a work study experience at a pharmacy – the details of which are coming soon. My friend showed us how to take the bus system there, the stop we wanted. I was super excited to go and learn the payment and routes.
We got out at our stop in Ulus and from there we figured out the rest of the way, walking with the historic Ankara Citadel as our landmark.
My son wasn’t super thrilled with having to take the bus and only complained for the first half of it. Soon (once he realized that I wasn’t listening to complaints, that is) he fell into step and started looking around at the city waking up. Vendors were washing their floors and steps with squeegees. Displays were being set up. Tea was being delivered. Greetings were called out. And display windows were being organized and cleaned. I pointed out how the person opening each market stall, each store, was working to get the place ready for the day’s customers. I pointed out how much pride they were taking in their work to make their places welcoming and inviting in hopes of making a sale.
I love walking through a city waking up. My son, not so much.
Up a street, crossing traffic, up another, cutting over, and then up a very steep endless road of market stalls. It was the windows on one particular lower street that caught my eye because in one I noticed a baby doll stuck in the middle of fancy, expensive necklace displays.
And there was a baby doll in another.
And later another. Closer inspection had me caught off guard because when I stopped a moment to really look in the windows I saw this:
I guess there must be some Turkish expression out there like we have: being born with a silver spoon in your mouth.
Getting back home and looking this photo of a baby with a gold binki has had me reflecting a bit on opportunities and choices we make as parent. On that day, my son was being forcefully marched up a steep grade hill to have three days of working experience in a pharmacy in the historical district of Ulus. A classmate assigned to the same work experience was delivered door to door by their driver. He was welcome to join the classmate, and had even ridden in on the first day due to my inability to rearrange a prior commitment. The classmate was invited to join us the last two days on our bus adventures; the family declined. Does either of these choices mean we love our child less? Or that one of us is a better parent? Or guarantee that our child will turn out better?
I think maybe it is a series of choices we make from our opportunities that shape our children. In some of my actions as a parent you could probably say that I bought into the gold binki: spoiling, being lavish, a bit wasteful even. In others, I have been overly prudent: respecting limits, simplifying, making due with less. I guess in the end I want both my children to appreciate not only monetary worth, but even more so, to understand the power their decisions have and that it is not things that bring real joy.
Although, I think maybe at the time my son would have said that riding in his friend’s car would have made him much happier.
Posted in Ankara, Friday Photo, Turkey, Ulus, tagged street vendors on April 18, 2014| Leave a Comment »
Posted in Birthdays, Parenting, Turkey, Ulus, tagged letting go, parenting a tween, preparing for an emptier nest, Ulus on February 2, 2014| Leave a Comment »
I am in a bit of a melancholy mood. It’s not that I’m unhappy. There is a lot of happiness. But it is also tinged with a lot of other feelings, too. Full disclosure: my oldest just turned 18 and my youngest recently turned 12. One almost an adult and out of the house to college, one heading as fast as he can into his teenhood. And I wonder where all the time went. They are no longer babies. If I’m being honest, they haven’t been for some time, even though my heart still loves them with the same ferocity and wonder as when I first held them. I know that independence is the final goal. And they are doing so well! It just hurts a bit too as they reach it.
So I chose this picture of a random family walking through the historic part of Ulus, a fleeting moment of many things and the marching of time.
Historic Bergama
It’s time. It’s been time for a while. So until I find my footing, or perhaps not even then, I’m signing off this blog which has been a place for me to document a bit of our lives while being posted overseas with the State Department. Those chapters are done; hubs is back. Thank you […]
Whereas it was the mongooses and dassies scampering and scuttling around in Namibia to fill a day, here in NoVA it is the squirrels. When they are not chasing each other endlessly up and down the tree canopies, or taunting the hunting foxes, they are trying to find ways to get a free meal from […]
Rain. Lots of Rain. Bouncing up from the ground downpour rain. Sideways rain. Misty hardly there rain. Best walks ever kind of rain. That about sums it up here. Things are growing in the yard again after almost two weeks of no rain, which was weird for the Mid Atlantic region. Apparently we seem to […]
Springtime in Turkish Countryside
The Man Who Knew Everyone And Greeted Them All
Celsus Library - Ephesus
Lanterns In The Market
Mystery Guest
Pamukkale: The Cotton Castle and Another Anciet City
Pergamum
Aphrodias
Dervish Delights
Inside The Blue Mosque
The Blue Mosque As Viewed From The Aya Sofia
Ancient Medi-Spa
A Poppy In Laodicea
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Nomads By Nature 