DATELINE: FEBRUARY 16, 2025 – SAN CARLOS, NICARAGUA
While I’m proud to be an American, it’s much easier to be proud about this when I ignore our military misadventures in Central America. My high school and college years were loaded with Iran/Contra and similar foibles, but the USA actually invaded Nicaragua as early as 1911, when the locals had the nerve to elect a government unfriendly to William Howard Taft. So, on behalf of him, and especially on behalf of Oliver North – sorry. And I was hoping the people of Nicaragua wouldn’t hold all this against me when I went down there to go fishing in February of 2025.
Nicaragua is a tremendous fishing destination, with loads of fresh and saltwater species. It doesn’t have as much infrastructure as Costa Rica, but it’s a lovely place with a few hidden gems for fishermen, and this post is going to unhide one of them.
The idea for this trip was hatched in the fall of 2024. With Covid seemingly under control, I started looking seriously at my country list again. With the addition of Tahiti, I was sitting at 96 countries fished. (And four more I had visited and not fished – Vatican City, Russia, Venezuela, and El Salvador.) Nicaragua isn’t too long of a flight, maybe eight total hours including connections, and it has some big deal stuff for us species types, notably rainbow bass and tropical gar. I missed a chance to get a rainbow bass in Costa Rica years ago, when Marta insisted we go look at monkeys in some rainforest rather than go fishing. What was I thinking?
I could also expect to pass the time catching tarpon and snook – Nicaragua has some serious game fishing in its coastal rivers. Finding a lodge took some doing, but the internet is a wonderful place as long as Marta sets up the filters correctly. I finally landed on La Esquina Del Lago, which then also turned out to be recommended by the guys at Hi’s Tackle Box.
The owner, Rob Hoover, did a great job of patiently listening to all my bizarre requests and custom-building a schedule around species hunting. I don’t think I’ve ever been better-prepared for a trip.
That’s Rob, with a fairly typical San Juan snook.
The most expensive part of the trip was making up to Marta the fact that I would be gone over Valentine’s Day. She’s a reasonable person, but she wasn’t going to let that go without a shopping spree in Alamo Ace Hardware’s kitchen section. And one La Creuset Dutch Oven later, I was off to the airport and heading for Managua.
The flights were easy enough, but what I hadn’t counted on is that the drive from the airport to the lodge would be just shy of four hours. My bad for not researching it – I should have brought more coloring books. My driver, Favio, was a pleasant, considerate soul who didn’t utter a word of complaint about my constant requests to stop for Red Bull or Cheetohs.
Favio navigates a not-uncommon cattlejam.
The countryside was gorgeous – as we got out of the big city, we could see mountains to our left and Lake Nicaragua – which is just HUGE – to our right. We passed through quite a few small villages, each one with cold Red Bull available, and a lot of forest and the edge of some deeper jungle.
This one is apparently an extinct volcano.
It was just getting dark when we arrived in San Carlos, a charming river village at the intersection of Lake Nicaragua and the Rio San Juan.
San Carlos, Nicaragua.
Even though we were physically closer to the Pacific, the river drains into the Atlantic, and contains a surprising number of saltwater species, including bull sharks. (Don’t swim here.)
I got settled in, unpacked and assembled my gear, and got a pint of boiled water for one of my freeze-dried REI camping meals. (The food here is excellent, by the way – I’m just paranoid.) The rooms were spacious, comfortable, and air-conditioned, and the staff was hospitable as could be, albeit bewildered by my food choices. The dining area and clubhouse featured at least a dozen rainbow bass mounts – the main fish I wanted to catch on the trip.
They really can get this colorful.
The clubhouse. I want the name of their decorator.
The resort dog joined me for dinner. His favorite food was whatever I was eating.
February is supposed to be starting the dry season in this area, but the Weather Gods didn’t get the memo. The morning was drizzly and overcast, and while it was warm enough to make a t-shirt all I needed, it wasn’t the 90+ I had expected. The guides, Walter and Maynor, were clearly expert, and their English was much better than my Spanish. We headed east down the San Juan River, and after about an hour run, we were ready to fish.
That’s Walter driving and Maynor in the black – my constant companions for four days.
Our craft was the Julia Brava.
It’s never easy to explain species fishing to a normal person, but the first few hours were easy, because their normal trolling and casting tactics translated well into some of the stuff I wanted to catch. I always overpack lures, because I own more lures than I could ever use in three lifetimes. It’s always interesting that only a few of these lures will ever catch fish, but you never know which few. In this case, both guys immediately pointed out a red Bomber crankbait I had only tossed in at the last minute – I think of it as a local bass lure, and hadn’t considered it for more exotic quarry.
The red Bomber. Mind you, it was brand new at the beginning of the trip.
We hadn’t trolled for three minutes when one of the rods started sagging. I started reeling up and could feel the occasional tug, so it was clearly a small fish. It turned out to be a bigmouth sleeper, a fish I had previously caught in Belize, but I was on the board for Nicaragua – country number 97.
On the scoreboard!
My first bigmouth sleeper, with Chris Harris (of the fabled Chris and Sue Harris duo that ran an awesome lodge near Monkey River) exactly 20 years ago. That was species 494.
We continued and caught a batch of machacas, a river species with surprisingly nasty teeth that I believed I had caught in Belize in 2005.
A machaca – spirited fighters that will take almost any lure.
Machaca teeth. Do not put this in your pants.
Of course, I took careful photos, and months later, as I was rooting through the references for my original fish, I ended up off on an internet ID journey that, after several months of intermittent effort, resulted in at least finding the keys for what turned out to be around a dozen possibilities.
Somewhere in there, I brought in the one-man committee of experts – Dr. Alfredo Carvalho of the University of Sao Paulo. I can’t ever thank him enough for the hours he has spent poring over these detailed and often-conflicting descriptions. The answer was delightful and yet humbling. The Nicaraguan machaca was indeed a new species – Brycon costaricensis, vs. the Belize fish being Brycon guatemalensis. But the humbling part was that only my first Belize machaca was guatemalensis. The remaining ones, smaller specimens I had caught in a more inland river, were all costaricensis. So I had just added a species I actually caught 20 years ago.
My original costaricensis, which had hidden in plain sight for two decades. Thank you Alfie!!
It was quite a journey. If I had a missing sibling somewhere, one who was so horribly demented and vicious that my parents kept her under the stairs and then in a series of secret asylums, I could have found her much more easily than I found this species. And no, my sister did not grow up under the stairs. I think.
A few fish later, I reeled up something I didn’t recognize. It was clearly a grunt, but it took a good deal of research to narrow it down to a Burro grunt – a Caribbean species that migrates up the river that time of year. I was up a species, and it was one I hadn’t even heard of.
The grunt, species two of the day.
We trolled through a few more machacas and some small snook, and then I talked the guys into doing some bait fishing off the bank – this is where I figured I would catch any catfish that might be running around, and have a shot at the smaller fish that would likely be up against the shoreline.
The micro fish didn’t disappoint – I loaded up dozens of tetras, which all turned out to be roundnose tetras, but a species is a species.
My light bait rod also kept busy, and I landed a mixed bag of small cichlids and catfish. The cichlids, always an ID problem, narrowed down to either wild midas or redhead cichlids, so nothing new there. The catfish were almost all Rhamdia quelen, the South American catfish I have caught in Argentina, but one of them looked different, so I took loads of photos.
About a month later, Dr. Alfredo Carvalho pinned this one down to Rhamdia guatemalensis, a new species for me, and, oddly enough, the only catfish I caught that wasn’t the regular R. quelen, which, as you all know, I caught in Florida with Dom Porcelli.
The next day was a biggie – we would head to the lake and make a major effort for rainbow bass. San Carlos is in the very southeast corner of Lake Nicaragua, and as we motored out onto the open water, it hit me how darn big the thing was. I couldn’t see land to the north or west.
Moonrise over Lake Nicaragua. This photo would make a diabolical 1000-piece puzzle.
After half an hour or so, some islands came into view, and the guides made it understood that we could fish near these, both trolling and casting.
The action was immediate – every crankbait I threw got hit. Unfortunately, these hits were all from larger versions of the ubiquitous cichlids, but the guys encouraged me to stay at it, because there are supposed to be rainbow bass mixed in with the other fish.
Wild midas cichlid? Melanura? Who knows. But they hit everything I threw at them.
The deep-diving version of the fabled Ilex “Chubbie” lure was a favorite.
I took a break from the casting to drop some small baits, and was immediately rewarded with a tetra that was clearly different from the ones in the river.
They turned out to be longjaw tetras – species #4 of the trip. Note the teeth.
We shared the island with a variety of wildlife, including these roseate spoonbills, one of Marta’s favorite birds.
About an hour later, we set up to troll, and after picking through all three boxes of lures I brought, they again insisted I use the red Bomber. They were looking for deeper structure – dropoffs, rockpiles, and submerged wood – which took a lot of skilled boatmanship because we kept going in and out of the wind. It also rained on us a good part of the day – not normal for this time of year, but it was what it was. I was in Nicaragua and I wasn’t going to let some rain keep me from a species. We had a few false alarms with snags, but we also had a few short strikes. The guys kept moving us – there were quite a few islands, and they were unflappably confident we would get a rainbow bass.
Well after noon, I got an unmistakably bigger hit. The fish ran hard for a moment, then the hook pulled. I didn’t have to be told what it was. We went back over the same dropoff, and just as we started to turn around, my rod slammed down. I set back hard, and I had something very solid on the line. It took about five minutes to get it close – the fish wanted to stay deep and we were trying to hold place in the wind, but it finally surfaced. It was a solid rainbow bass, about five pounds, and I was just a few feet away from getting a species I had wanted ever since I read about it in some magazine back in the 1980s. It was an agonizing few seconds as we eased the boat closer to the fish, but Walter reached down and deftly scooped it up. I had my rainbow bass.
Not a monster, but a solid fish. I like catching things that have humps on the forehead.
We spent the rest of the day going back and forth across the back of the islands, and got two more decent rainbow bass, plus a ton of other cichlids.
The second fish. Smaller but humpier.
A juvenile, which was safely released.
And one more photo just because I wanted to.
We headed back to the lodge, and just as we pulled up, the skies opened and we had torrential rain for about two hours.
Leaving one of the islands behind us.
I tried the dock later that evening, but the action was limited to more roundnose tetras and a few catfish. Dinner was a slab of grilled rainbow bass, which was excellent – and a bag of REI lasagna.
I have to emphasize that the food here looked excellent and they have never had a problem with anyone getting ill. Indeed, my worst case of food poisoning ever, a three day Parisian pukefest, originated at a high-end French seafood restaurant.
The tropical gar was my remaining big target, but I figured that it wouldn’t be a problem if we headed downriver and fished big cut baits. Plenty of my friends have been in the region, especially Costa Rica, and seen loads of them – the trick is getting them to stay on the hook. Maynor and Walter were confident we could find a few, but they did communicate that the water was rather high and the fish might be a bit harder to find.
We headed out that third day with high hopes, but the rain soon put a damper on things. It poured for long stretches of the day, and while we saw a few gar boil, we didn’t get so much as a hit. This was still not a disaster – I had my main target and I just needed to get lucky once. One of the other guests at the lodge, a guy in his 20s who had saved a good while to make the journey, was focused solely on catching a tarpon on the fly, and these were not the right conditions. He went at it, rain or shine, for four straight days, and raised and missed two fish.
At least the dog loved him.
Note that this place is usually jammed with tarpon in February – he had just gotten the wrong week. The Fish Gods will do that.
The sole bright moment in my otherwise waterlogged outing came on a micro rod, when a single silverside broke up a steady stream of tetras.
So I was up to seven species, but now I only had one day left to catch a creature I had assumed would be much more evident that it had turned out to be.
The next day, after a healthy breakfast of REI oatmeal and Red Bull, we headed a couple of hours downriver.
Heading into the sunrise in search of tropical gar.
The weather was a little better, but we still went through intermittent rain most of the morning. It was clear why they spent the time to bring me all this way – we got into a section of river that had a series of tributaries and small bays set back from it, and they felt that these areas would give us the best chance at a gar.
We set up two rods to fish big slab baits, and as we lowered them back, as an afterthought, I picked up a crankbait rod, this time with a deep-diving silver and green Rapala. The guides had mentioned that gar would occasionally take an artificial, so I figured I would cover all the bases. I fired it out almost to the bank, and then slowly reeled it tight until I could feel the lure thumping in the current. I started working it back to the boat, and seconds later, wham. And not to confuse it with the 1980s musical geniuses, but I mean WHAM! Something absolutely crushed that lure. I waited a split-second to set the hook, which I owe to years of crankbait training with Jim Larosa, a good buddy who wins his share of bass tournaments despite the fact he dresses like a colorblind bowler, and the fight was on. Whatever I had was by far the largest fish I had hooked on the trip, and I found myself, bizarrely, praying it wasn’t a tarpon or huge snook. Yes, species fishermen find themselves saying prayers like this. I didn’t say it was normal or healthy.
The fish peeled line off the reel, then cut across the current to calmer water. I was pretty sure it wasn’t a tarpon, because it hadn’t jumped, but it could have been a monster snook. I looked at Walter and used my one word of Spanish. “Robalo?” “No, no,” he replied. “Gar.” I still couldn’t be sure. The fish made three or four more runs in and out of the current, slowly getting closer to us. If it was a gar, it was likely not hooked well, and I knew we would have just one good chance to land it.
About 15 feet from the boat, it surfaced. It was a gar, and a big one, with the crankbait well into its jaw. I walked it as far forward as I could, and Maynor reached down into the water and flung it into the boat. I had my tropical gar, which of course made me think I needed to go to Cuba immediately so I could finish the genus.
The trip was now a complete success.
Again, do NOT put this in your pants.
We took our time heading in, and we put the red bomber back and began trolling just to see what we would get. After a couple of machacas, I got a much more serious hit – something that peeled line and headed for the top of the water to roll around. I thought for a moment that I had another gar, but as we got closer to it, it jumped. It was a snook, and a good one. I knew I had shaken a few this size, and I could tell it would be my personal best if we could get it onboard. Walter, sure-footed and deft of hand, made short work of it and I had an eight-pound snook.
It’s not Arostegui-level, but I’ll take it.
The Red Bomber was such a winner for the trip that I am hereby establishing Wozniak’s Lure Hall of Fame, and this is the first entrant.
The Bomber also got several bright red cichlids, but alas, these seem to be color morphs of the same old species. If anyone can help with these, you know where to find me.
Dinner was a slab of that aforementioned snook – delicious grilled with lemon – and a bag of REI chili. (I bring my own tabasco.) I fished well into the night at the resort, and managed one more additional species, a moga cichlid, which was incredibly beautiful because it wasn’t one of the standard ones.
That was nine for the trip, and 2381 lifetime.
It had been an amazing journey, and a remarkably easy one. I can’t recommend these guys enough.
Walter and Maynor as I headed home. I have fished with guides all over the world, and these guys were top-notch.
This is Champa, the general manager – this guy makes stuff happen.
The following morning, Favio picked me up again, and we were off to Managua. It went by quickly, mixed in with some Red Bull stops, and at last, we were back where it all started just a few days and nine species ago. I smiled at the familiar sight of a United 737, but then, to the great surprise to those of you who don’t know me all that well, I walked past it and boarded an Avianca plane, heading for … well, let’s just say the central American adventure wasn’t quite over, and that a 20 year-old mistake was about to be fixed.
Steve





















































































































































































































































































