DATELINE: MAY 23, 2024 – INDIANAPOLIS, INDIANA
Many of you have wondered, often loudly, what in the world Steve Ramsey is thinking when he invites me to stay at his place for 10 days at a stretch. Marta, who adores Steve, still questions his judgment when he subjects himself to these marathons. Say what you will, but when Steve and I catch up, we get a lot done in a short time, even if it means sacrificing sleep, healthy diet, and occasionally, Steve’s dignity.
This trip would be no exception. I showed up at Ramsey’s house around noon, the day after the lake chubsucker debacle, and 13 minutes later, we were at Skyline Chili.
Welcome to Indianapolis.
The rest of the day consisted of more Skyline, half a gallon of ice cream, and countless episodes of “Blue Bloods,” but we turned in early, like 3am, because we had big plans that day.
One of the many things I love about Steve is that he helped re-introduce me to my Hoosier roots. I was born in Indiana, but because my parent moved so often, I was always that new kid in school, behind the curve in having any sort of cultural grounding. I formed my sports loyalties in Michigan, but it was only as an adult, courtesy of Steve, that I reconnected with Indiana.
Our destination that day was Fort Wayne, my home town and location of the ill-fated road trip/hostage situation to see a minor league hockey game. This time, we would be seeing baseball – the Fort Wayne Tin Caps, Single-A affiliate of the San Diego Padres. Unlike the spontaneous Komets adventure, we left ourselves plenty of spare time, because, before the game, we were going to attempt to find the house I was born into. I had an address and some faint memories from no later than 1967.
The trip up seemed to take a while, because, to Ramsey’s great relief, we went the speed limit. We took the same exit we had for the ice arena, and only then did I start looking at the map, which I had directed to the street, but not the address. I wanted to see if I could recognize it. It had only been 57 years.
As we wound our way through a residential area, I tried to picture the house. I remembered it white with red shutters, and very big, but then again, everything seemed big when I was little.
We passed a brown house that was obviously built well after I lived in the area, and then I hit the brakes. There it was. It was painted differently, but the shape was instantly recognizable. Sadly, there was a Notre Dame flag waving near the door, but this was it.
My first home, present day.
The same home, circa 1965. The sapling on the near right has grown into the big tree on the right and top of the previous picture. I think of my parents in this, the first house they bought together, full of hope, two young children, and their entire future ahead. On the day this picture was taken, everything was possible for them.
I walked around the perimeter of the property, and little flashes came back to me – a pond in some vacant property behind us, long since built over, me playing in the front yard, my Mom making cookies in the kitchen. Impulsively, I knocked on the door, and the current owner generously invited me in to have a look.
The kitchen counter, present day. Amazingly, they had cookies. If I close my eyes, I can still see my Mom with a baking sheet, probably 1965, standing just to the right of the stove. I would have been standing at the entrance to the back porch, where I once broke all the windows with a deposit bottle.
This is where I formed my first memories. This is where I got over my fear of a monster coming out of the closet, and sadly, where my sister never did, because the monster in her closet was me in a Frankenstein mask.
The ballpark was one of the better Single-A stadiums I have ever seen, and we got to watch the Tin Caps pull off a 9th-inning comeback – an excellent night.
Steve and Steve at the ballpark, in full Tin Caps regalia.
The trip home included our standard stop at the Anderson White Castle.
We eat here quite a bit, because Skyline isn’t open in the middle of the night.
The next day was fairly epic as sports days go.
The Indianapolis Indians were playing Detroit’s AAA club, Toledo. (As I Tigers fan, I am obligated to root Mud Hen.) It was a great game, especially knowing we were watching some future Detroit stars.
I would be remiss not to mention we were hosted by Pam Aitken, who seems to know everyone, and I mean everyone, in Indianapolis. Pam is the only confirmed witness to my home run at the Field of Dreams in Iowa.
We had to leave the game a bit early to catch a dinner reservation. As we walked around the outfield lawn, Steve mentioned to keep an eye open in case someone homered. I chuckled. I have never gotten a batted ball as a spectator at any level of professional baseball.
Parker Meadows of the Mud Hens was batting, and I wasn’t looking, but I heard the distinctive crack of solid contact. I looked up, and the ball was on a trajectory indicating the pitcher should have thrown something else. The ball landed in a camera pit over the fence in deepest center field.
Without a second thought, I broke into what passes for a sprint at my age. I pulled up just short of the camera, made sure the camera guy didn’t want it, and picked up the ball. I had finally gotten one.
According to Steve, I barely beat some heartbroken eight year-old to the ball. Stop the hate mail, people – the kid will have plenty of time to get his own ball.
Parker Meadows ended up on the big club quickly thereafter, and was a crucial part of the Tigers unexpected playoff run.
Mr. Ramsey and I walked over to St. Elmo’s, a local institution and one of the best steakhouses anywhere. (And a prominent part of “Two Parties” – one of my favorite “Parks and Recreation” installments.) As we enjoyed our beef, we got chatting with our waitress, Emilee, who turned out to have been an extra in that very episode.
Emilee – a standout among one of the best restaurant staffs I have ever worked with.
And there she is with Nick Offerman, who plays Ron Swanson. How cool is that?
You will notice that I was wearing a Ron Swanson t-shirt. I come prepared.
Our evening plans were actually the highlight of the trip. We had tickets for the WNBA’s Indiana Fever and the home debut of Caitlin Clark. I don’t know basketball that well, but I know a generational talent when I see one, and I was looking very forward to seeing her play.
Gainbridge Fieldhouse was absolutely crazed – I don’t know that I’ve ever been in a louder arena. And although the girls from New York were bigger and meaner, we could see that Caitlin was going to be a star. And we were there in person.
Caitlin’s first home free throw. She deserves more of these. The other team played a lot more hockey than basketball.
Although they lost this matchup, they still turned their season around and made the playoffs.
Congratulations on reading this far – you just knew there would be some fishing, and we have reached that part of the story. I had connected with Bloomington-based species expert Ron Anderson (of Ron and Jarrett fame,) and he would be taking me and Gerry Hansell on a three-day swing through what was intended to be Kentucky and Tennessee, but ended up including Georgia, Alabama, and possibly Mongolia.
The first day of these things invariably involves a lot of driving. We were in the car around five hours before we pulled over in a nondescript Tennessee town, walked through a city park to a small creek, and set to it. Ron has his locations down amazingly well, and it didn’t take me long to add a species – the headwater darter.
I never get great photos of these. Carson Moore does, but I don’t.
We had a sumptuous dinner at Subway, during which I commented on their wet floor, but then sheepishly realized I hadn’t changed out of my water shoes. We finished up, then drove off to another nearby creek to hunt more darters. It was absolutely perfect – a low, clear river with plenty of structure to hunt until the wee hours when our headlamps would finally give out.
I managed to scratch out two more darters – the dirty darter and the Cumberland snubnose.
The dirty darter. You can fill in your own punchline here.
The snubnose complex gives me ID fits, but if Jarrett says it’s good, it’s good.
We stayed out to some insane hour, and I ended up wading a God-forsaken swamp after something that turned out not to be there, but I did get one of the nicer pictures of a snubnose I’ve ever gotten.
You have to love those colors, even at 3am.
But you don’t have to love that spider.
Even though we would end up with a very short night of sleep, three new ones on the scoreboard took the sting out of it.
The next two days are what we call “regressing to the norm.” The further south and east we went, the murkier the water got, evidence of recent heavy rain. We tried side channels, we tried tributaries, but it was hard work. Gerry managed to scrape up a Caney Fork darter, which I hadn’t caught.
Steve hunts the river with the aid of a “Minnowview 3000” – a bucket with a plexiglass bottom that provides a vastly improved view through roiled water. Alas, it won’t x-ray through sediment, but Ron is working on one that does.
I certainly saw a few, but just at the very edge of visibility. This did not please me, but my consolation prize was a spectacularly bland cherry darter.
These are normally much more colorful, but a species is a species.
Near starvation and off the beaten track, we stumbled into Ramsey’s Barbeque – a truly authentic local place that opens when they’re finished cooking and closes when they sell out.
No relation to Steve. Damn it was good.
That evening, we caught up with Robert Lamb, a local naturalist who is very well-known in the species hunting world. He’s an expert in almost anything that lives near or under water within a day’s drive of Southeastern Tennessee, and I have heard Ron and Jarrett speak of him in glowing terms. We met up at a section of river that was supposed to have several rare darters, but alas, Robert’s superpowers end at controlling the weather. Everything we tried was blown out – this is always a risk on road trips.
Ron, Gerry, Robert, and Steve. I didn’t know it at the time, but I would be back at this same spillway in a month.
We searched well into the night, and each new target idea took us hours off the planned route. We somehow ended up in Georgia at 2am, and, while exploring up some small creeks, inadvertently wandered onto a state facility and had to deal with a polite but extremely bewildered official. Once he understood what we were trying to catch, he was very interested and gave us quite a bit of good advice, but we had certainly dodged a bullet. Semi-literally. Folks in this region tend to be well-armed.
The next morning held a melancholy destination – the Estillfork in Northern Alabama. It was and is one of the greatest darter spots on the planet, but my last visit here had been with Dom Porcelli. Ron and Gerry had both fished with him, and we all shared our memories as we made the drive. I didn’t expect anything new, but it was still incredible to see it, just as prime as it was that day in May of 2021.
Gerry and Ron both got blotchside logperch, a lifer for both of them. Sadly, Dom never got one. I wandered the shallows, just fishing for the sake of it, hours I hoped would never end, getting darter after darter, with every new rock a shot at something new and memorable.
Gerry chases a logperch. This place is pure magic.
I passed the time catching assorted darters, like this snubnose.
We finally hit the road in late afternoon, and headed a few hours north into Tennessee, where we had one more target that would make the whole day if we could find it. It was a slabrock darter, something of a rarity, and we had to deal with several obstacles, not the least of which was a locked parking area. Mind you, the creek wasn’t closed, just the park adjacent to it, so we ended up with a much longer walk than planned.
The fishing more than made up for any inconveniences – Gerry and I nailed nice slabrocks in just a few minutes, and we actually got to sleep at a reasonable hour.
Species 2293, and my first of the barcheek darters.
Drive home days are usually set up with one or two targets to break up the monotony. Ron had picked out a couple of quick stops, and for that one day, everything came up roses. Our first stop was on the Stones River, scene of a brutal Civil War battle, to chase the stone darter. It’s not much more than a creek, and it was sobering to think that almost 3000 soldiers died here in 1862.
The guys at the river. Nice place, but it didn’t look worth fighting for.
Poking around some loose rock, we found the target right away, and they bit aggressively.
Another of the barcheek variants, this was my 6th species – and 6th darter – of the trip. This was my 80th darter species.
A few hours later, we pulled up at a familiar location – the campground where we had been flooded out of a shot at a redtail chub a few years ago. This time, the parking lot was not underwater, and we made short work of the beast.
The first non-darter new species of the trip.
The water conditions – definitely fishable.

The same spot in 2023. Not fishable.
A couple of hours later, we made our last stop of the drive, chasing yet another “shot in the dark” darter – the Shawnee. We parked at a small creek somewhere in the middle of Kentucky, and again, very quickly, the darters showed up and bit.
The Shawnee darter.
We were thrilled, and the five hours home flew by as we talked shop – future trips, future species, future sleep deprivation. We parted ways in Bloomington, and I can’t thank Ron and Gerry enough for their time and dedication.
After another day of Skyline Chili and local wandering, I decided I was going to give it a try for the one species near Steve’s house that was still realistic. The bowfin has recently been split into northern and southern varieties, and all my catches thus far had been southern. On the advice of Ron, I drove to a spillway perhaps 40 minutes from Steve’s place, caught a few panfish for cut bait, and worked my way to a pool downstream. (I had tried this spot one chilly late October day and missed a big fish, so this was a rematch.) The weather was pleasant this time and I knew I had a good chance. The fish made it undramatic, except when I nearly went swimming trying to net it on a steep, slippery bank.
The eyespot bowfin, species 2297, and likely the last one within an hour of Ramsey’s place.
Since I was back at Ramsey’s, we had to squeeze in at least one more sports event. Bearing in mind that Steve and I think nothing of driving five hours to go to an evening game in Detroit and then coming back that very same night, we were off for Comerica to see my beloved Tigers play.
It’s not Tiger Stadium, but it’s still our home field, and yes, we will drive 10 hours to see three hours of baseball.
And of course, if we’re seeing a game in Detroit, we’re inviting Sean Biggs, he of the massive slap shot – a buddy I have known since 7th grade. That’s almost – gulp – 50 years.
Sean, Steve, and Steve at the ballpark.
And in those almost 50 years, the Tigers have won exactly one World Series – the “Bless You Boys” year of 1984. The Tigers fell short on this evening, losing to Toronto on “Canadian-American Heritage Night” – the staff got even with the Blue Jays by playing Justin Bieber songs. I hope the Tigers pull off another one in my lifetime – note we are not discussing 2006 or 2012 here – but in the meantime, the important thing is just getting to every game we can.
Paying homage at the Norm Cash shrine. Cash was my childhood hero, and inspired me to play first base, a position well-suited to my fielding range.
We all parted ways around 10pm, and it was off to Indianapolis. The trip took us from Detroit, where I had formed my sports loyalties in the early 1970s, south through Indiana and Fort Wayne, where it had all started a long, long time ago. At one stage of my adult life, this place had seemed foreign to me, but now it just felt like home.
Steve





















































































































































































































































































