Last weekend Reed and I joined up with Grizzly Adam, Ty Hopkins, Keith, and one other guy for a loop through the Grand Staircase Monument.
We drove down and bivvied not too far from Grosvenor Arch, which was where we started. The arch itself was awesome. I was feeling a little like I was getting sick as we drove down, but hoped it was allergies or something. It didn't feel like a big deal.
And ... off we go.
From the arch, we rode about 75 miles on the first day.
We encountered some snow as we climbed. The snow eventually became mud, which caused me a lot of chain-suck and some walking, but some water-bottle washing and oil got me going again after we got past the mud.
Somewhere late in the first day the bolt on the main shock pivot of my Intense Spider 29er failed. This has happened before. Fortunately, the two halves stayed in and it still worked OK.
We had a lot (one) of crystal-clear (sort of) streams to drink from.
I was really hoping we would make it to Lake Powell the first day, but we had started a bit late in the morning. We rode till it was nearly dark, but even so, as we discovered the next morning, there was quite a bit of riding left before Lake Powell from where we camped. We skipped the final spur down to the lake, and hence never really saw it. This was my only real regret of the trip.
While eating and getting ready for bed Friday night I was feeling a little strange and my stomach was unhappy. We had been riding all day, so I hoped I just felt weird from being tired. Throughout the night I kept waking up sweaty and and belly grumbling, but again, we had been riding all day and my sleeping bag was new, so I was not really sure what was going on.
In the morning, I got up shortly before sun-up because we had a lot of riding to do and I did not want things to drag on into the dark that night.
As I started riding, it became clear something was indeed wrong. My body's thermal-regulation just wasn't working right. Nothing to do but keep riding. I rode along an endless dirt road by myself ahead of the group until we came to a big overlook. Unfortunately, this photo doesn't really do it justice.
What followed was a long descent. This part of the ride was interesting with lots of black-seams of coal visible in the layers of rock on the sides of the cliffs. In some places, the dirt road was even black with coal.
At the bottom, more endless dirt-roads.
By the long dirt road pictured above, I was feeling pretty sick and just riding to get it over with. This part seemed kind of long and boring, but then we came to the town of Big Water, where no stores were open but we got water from the restroom.
At big water, Reed and I left the group. They opted for an off-road route that we had heard was a lot of hike-a-bike, and it was going to be into a head-wind. Instead, we took a route on the highway, which was still a lot of headwind and more annoying than fun. After hearing how it went for everyone else, I think we made the right choice even if I had been healthy.
Honestly, I can't remember where this photo was taken, but I think it was where we got off the highway.
When we left the highway, the winds were crazy strong, blasting dust and sand into our eyes.
Fortunately, the ride ended with a long, steady climb up this canyon (Cottonwood Canyon?) I really liked the canyon, despite feeling horrible, and ticking off the miles and the time in 25 minute increments.
After the ride I was shivering uncontrollably. We stopped at a gas station and I got some hot water out of a coffee-machine, which helped a little. We stopped again later for some Tylenol. This seemed to tame the fever and I stopped shivering. The flu has been unusually bad this year, and I finally got it. It kept me in bed for the next four days. Maybe it was worse because I rode 150 miles of dirt as it was coming on.
Maybe it was just because I had the flu, but I left this trip feeling a bit underwhelmed -- like the area was pretty in about the same way all the rest of Utah is, and frankly not that unique except a few particular spots. This was the first time I remember that I've done a big ride and then thought it would have been more fun to just ride it on a motorcycle.
The vastness of the nearly undeveloped land is probably the coolest thing about the area. We barely saw anyone the whole trip, and that is pretty unique these days.
There has been a lot of controversy about how much of the area should be protected and how that should be accomplished. Visiting somewhere like the Wind Rivers, the Tetons, Zions, Bryce, or Canyonlands, I always leave thinking, "wow, this needs to be kept as pristine as possible", but Grand Staircase really didn't have that effect on me. It would be a shame to dig it all up for coal or parcel it out to private property if that were what people wanted to do with it -- something should be done to keep it wild, open, and accessible, but there is probably a lot of fine ways to accomplish that.