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The Tiedemann Group Mountain Profile Essays
Tucked deep within British Columbia’s Coast Mountains, the Tiedemann Group is far less famous than its taller neighbor to the west, Mt. Waddington, but its frozen couloirs and snow-speckled rock faces tell a captivating story of their own. The range remains almost as remote today as it was a hundred years ago when Don and Phyllis Munday first visited. Tami Knight shares its lesser-known history, from the early days of hellacious approaches and fresh summits to modern tales of helicopter access and bold new lines. All tied up in various ways with Serra V, the last major summit to be…
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The Stilettos
Tami Knight writes about the Tiedemann Group’s easternmost series of summits, known as the Stilettos. She writes: “The Stilettos are the little siblings of the spectacular mountains right next door, but they attract attention because, once you’re in the area, access is easy and they require a shorter weather window for climbing.”
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2023: The Serra Traverse
Ethan Berman writes about the two attempts he made with friends to complete the “Waddington Loop.” The first effort ended with a helicopter rescue. The second trip was significantly more fun, but they were still humbled by the mountains. Berman writes: “Great success? Giant flop? I’m still not sure what to make of the five days I spent in the Waddington Range with Matteo Agnoloni and Seba Pelletti in early August 2023…. Peter Croft, Greg Foweraker and Don Serl completed the Waddington traverse in 1985. We planned to go in the opposite direction and loop back to where we started,…
Current Issue
Alpinist 92 | Winter 2025-26
Cover: Medhi Bidault soars over the Karakoram while scouting climbing objectives with Jake Holland and Will Sim. “The truly magical thing about this place is the sense of freedom,” Holland says in his film The Magic of Freedom. “It’s really just a case of how far your imagination can stretch and what risks you’re willing to take.” Jake Holland
Mountain Standards gear reviews
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C.A.M.P. X-Dream Ice Tools: Continuing the Long Evolution of Ice and Mixed Climbing Hardware
Oakes on ice and mixed terrain in multiple venues across Montana. Of the ice tools, Nadav says, “The 2025 X-Dream feels like the continuation of a long evolution rather than a reinvention. It is instantly familiar yet packed with updates that make it more versatile, more customizable, and more refined than previous generations.”
Features
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Off the Shelf 2025: Alpinist’s Year in Reading
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This year, Sonnie Trotter brought us back to 2006, Sḵwx̱wú7mesh (Squamish), as his fingers flexed against steep granite on the first free ascent of Cobra Crack. We stood next to Mimi Zieman in a whiteout as she waited for her teammates on Chomolungma (Everest) in 1988. Lisa Roderick gave us an intimate look at Denali’s…
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High Places
In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 92, Derek Franz writes of his experience climbing in the Swiss Alps with The North Face team last September and learning about everything that went into developing the Advanced Mountain Kit Summit Series 2.0.
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The Wall of Walls
In this On Belay story from Alpinist 91, Will Gadd shares the details of how he and Kirk Mauthner uncovered some of the best ice climbs of their lives close to their homes in Canada. The pair spent three years snowmobiling into the Kootenays, swinging tools into steep ice and skiing through complex avalanche terrain.…
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Triumph Without Will
In this Full Value story from Alpinist 91, Christopher Elliott interrogates the history of climbing in the Brenta Dolomites, the Nazi preoccupation with mountains and the responsibility of individuals in the face of fascism. He writes: “The history of alpinism in the Brenta Dolomites is a dramatis personae of characters who ‘achieved’ things that are…
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Responsibilities of Storytelling
In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 91, Derek Franz considers recurring themes and the responsibilities of storytelling, and announces his trip to Nepal. He writes: “Storytelling is at its highest form when done in service to the bigger picture that goes beyond one person’s benefit; when the threads intertwine and connect, creating a fabric,…
The ALPINIST Podcast
The Alpinist podcast extends our conversations with climbers and community members into a new medium: from fresh interviews to untold stories, and from humorous adventure tales to in-depth discussions of significant issues in the climbing world today.
Episode 71 | The Alpinist Podcast
Will Moss – One Step Further
Now twenty years old, Will Moss’s 22-hour push on El Cap this May was the culmination of more than two years of planning. In this conversation, we talk in depth about the historic climbs Will is ticking off at a young age, and what he’s planning next as he takes a semester off from pursuing a degree in mechanical engineering to chase his climbing dreams.
Episode 70 | The Alpinist Podcast
Sonnie Trotter – Commitment to Climbing
In this episode, we talk about Sonnie Trotter’s evolution as an athlete, where he finds freedom and why he believes climbing should be fun—even when it’s not easy.
Newswire
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Alpine-style ascent of Nanga Parbat with paraglide and ski descents
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At the end of June, David Göttler (Germany) and Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein (France), climbed Nanga Parbat (8125m) via the Schell Route on the Rupal Face in alpine style and descended by paraglider (Göttler) and skis after down climbing a few hundred meters from the windy summit. The trio launched from Base Camp at
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2025 Grit&Rock Award recipients announced
The 2025 Grit & Rock grant winners were announced in early May.
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Update: Public Land Sell-Offs Removed from House Bill, But Major Environmental Threats Remain
Thanks to community pressure lawmakers removed an amendment to sell off more than 500,000 acres of public land in Utah and Nevada. However, the final bill still poses serious threats.
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Statement from Height of Land Publications Opposing the Sale of Public Lands in Utah and Nevada
As the publisher of Alpinist, Backcountry, Cross Country Skier and Mountain Flyer, Height of Land Publications represents a broad and passionate community of climbers, skiers, mountain bikers and outdoor enthusiasts whose lives, livelihoods, and identities are deeply rooted in public lands. We stand in firm opposition to the provisions in the House Natural Resources committee bill that proposes the sale of over 500,000 acres of federal public lands in Utah and Nevada. The dangerous precedent this sale would set is well outside any existing statutory construct for the sale of public lands. In short, what goes next? Roosevelt said it…
