September 3rd, 2008 (03:57 pm)
Mood Ring: confused
So Phyllis Richman, former food critic for the Post, has a bit of a diatribe up about plate snatching in restaurants. I probably wouldn't have followed the link, except that when we went out last week for dinner on our anniversary, the diving, bobbing and weaving of hands for plates was so stark, I was a bit taken aback. The part that struck me:
Dining is a communal activity, and table manners were designed to reflect that. Just as it is considered impolite for one person to start eating before everyone at the table has been served, it traditionally has been seen as rude for a waiter to remove one diner's plate before everyone at the table is through.
But manners change. Or in this case, restaurateurs are trying to change them. Servers are removing dishes one by one, as soon as they are emptied -- or even before. Rest your fork for a second, or lean back for a moment's stretch, and your dinner will disappear. The slowest eater is left with her plate a lone island on an empty table. The justifications are lame: Either the kitchen staff wants to pace the dishwashing, the dining room staff is trying to keep the meal moving along, or the busboy is trying to look busy. By now, a few diners are so accustomed to it that they've started to feel offended if their plates sit empty before them.
Ok- so I didn't spend much growing up time in the states, and my manners are probably yet another round peg on a square placemat. I eat Continental Style, not American Style. While I can strip fried chicken to nothing with my knife and fork, I totally cannot sit to the right of someone eating American Style (me being a lefty compounds this.) And the rule is, when you are done with your meal, you lay your knife and fork, placed together with handles resting on the plate rim, but straight through the middle of the plate. Since your knife is always on the right, the fork always on the left, that they're together signifies that you're done, and the waiter may pick up the plate at his or her convenience. I guess I'm coming across as horribly provincial, here, but I do find this a bit baffling-- don't people do that in the States? Is there some subtle hint one is supposed to use that I'm clueless about?
It makes sense- that means the waiter isn't carrying a catastrophically huge pile of plates back when everyone's done, it helps get the table cleared faster for the next table occupants, and yet it manages to not make the person eating feel rushed. As someone who has chronically eaten more quickly than others at the table, it certainly does make me feel more awkward when I've got no plate in front of me, it points out something I'm not necessarily comfortable with- instead of letting me fidget a bit with the plate, knife and fork, and put them down for plate pickup when it's closer to the end of the meal for everyone. (This is further enforced by ending up eating a bite or two of DS's food if he doesn't want to finish- something that's one of those Mom-punishments, and harder to do with no cutlery or plate..)
I guess, If nothing else, this makes me feel better about telling waiters, "I'm not ready for my plate to be picked up, yet." Would that they were just plain psychic.