
Jacaranda tree in full bloom, Barcelona
“Barcelona is something else, isn’t it? There you have the Mediterranean, the spirit, the adventure, the high dream of perfect love. There are palm trees, people from every country, surprising advertisements, Gothic towers and a rich urban tide… What a pleasure it has been for me to meet that air and that passion!“
(Federico García Lorca, quoted by Colm Tóibín in ‘Homage to Barcelona.’)
Dazzled by the sunshine
BARCELONA 2024. A chance comment I made to friends took me – and them – to Barcelona in September last year. One year on, and I still have not recovered. I had never been to the city before, but from the moment I stepped off the plane, I was dazzled. There was the glorious blue of the Mediterranean sea and sky, framed majestically by the Montjuïc and Tibidabo hills. Then there were the crazy colours, the daring curves and angles, of its modernist architecture – Barcelona’s most famous visionary, Antoni Gaudí, everywhere present in the eccentric and bombastic buildings which he dedicated to the power of nature, the sea, and to God himself.

Casa Milà, designed by Gaudí, flowing like the waves along the Passeig de Gràcia, Barcelona
Explosion of delights
Turn every corner, and even the humblest chemist shop would boast a doorway of gleaming metalwork and audacious design. The whole city seemed like an explosion of an artist’s palette: an artist not entirely in their right mind, moreover, but not giving a damn for the consequences.

Doorway to the garage (!) inside Casa Milà
But it was something else about the city that captured my heart and imagination so immediately: its sheer vibrancy, its devil-may-care insouciance and a profound delight in life itself. This was down to the people themselves, as much as the environment. The Catalans! A bunch of rebel warriors, not averse to lingering at a street pavement café for hours, arguing, drinking, even dancing – on skateboard or on foot – down the street and into the night. I felt as if I had stumbled into a kind of psychedelic paradise for the few days that I was there. And even though there is plenty of trouble in this same paradise (the modern day blight of excessive tourism, plus a history struck by fascist repression, violence and loss), Barcelona still seemed gloriously alive and untouchable. It galloped towards me like a wild horse: beautiful to look at – energetic, magnetic – but impossible to tame.

Boats in Barceloneta harbour, palm trees, and a moment of calm
Into the night
BUDAPEST 1988. Here was a city – and a country – blanketed in deep, deep snow and ice. The last vestiges of a Soviet-controlled communist regime. Everywhere grey and chilly. Red stars atop the government buildings, bullet holes in the grand walls, from a failed uprising 30-odd years before. Hard to imagine a place more different to the dazzle of Barcelona: caught in the Cold War grip of a cold, cold winter. Yet I loved this place in an instant, too. A coup de foudre. Led there by chance, through a friend who had gone back to live in her native country, I was lulled by the warmth of the theatre family I joined because of her, enjoyed late nights of camaraderie and drinking, suffered a bit from the mercurial Magyar temperament, yet returned again and again, to work and to live. Fell in love, had my heart broken, discovered my passion for the stage, and wandered the (then) gloomy streets with fascination and awe.

The green metal might of the Szabadság Bridge, on the River Danube, Budapest
The springs and summers in Budapest are as beautiful as those in Barcelona – though somewhat dustier, with its landlocked terrain – and the buildings and pavements now boast a tourist-friendly, scrubbed-clean façade, in this post-communist, capitalist-greedy new era. But the shadows remain. Down the poorer back streets, and after sunset, when the twinkling lights fail to fully conceal the darkness of a terrible history, imprinted in its hidden corners, behind its closed doors. This only makes me love the place more. It is a bony, bloody minded survivor, and sings its own – admittedly somewhat mournful, but determined – song.

Courtyard inside a block of flats in Újbuda, Budapest
When I went to Barcelona, I travelled as a carefree visitor, ignorant of its history, and blindsided by its raw vitality and joy. There could be nowhere, I thought, more different to the Budapest I had visited for so many years, in its attitude, its tempo, its style. The ugly struggles that Hungary had been through were familiar to me – German fascism, Soviet communism and a current authoritarian government wielding the cosh. But it turns out, of course, that Barcelona itself has been through the mill, with its own turbulent history of anarchism, socialism, and a glorious, defiant resistance to Spain’s homegrown dictator, General Franco. Two rebel cities with very different faces, but the same passionate heart.

Steps down from the Castle District, towards the river in old Buda.
The language of resistance
I have spent years trying to master Hungarian – a strange and difficult language, related to no other, and fiendishly difficult to learn. Now I find that Catalan, the native language of Barcelona, is likewise unusual, proudly defended, historically marginalised, and repressed. The Catalans are bright and voluble – and militant, too. The Hungarians are darker in mood, more saturnine, but Big Talkers also – and always ready for a good discussion, and to spring to their own defence! Lovers and fighters, both – which challenges and stirs my rather more hidden English sensibilities.
I find myself in a linguistic labyrinth now. As well as Hungarian, I find myself shaping my mouth around the very different vowels and consonants of Catalan. Hungarian has a rhythm and a music; the Catalan sounds are more percussive, vital and strong. Budapest and Barcelona. Both cities draw me like a moth to the flame – their shadows and their light inextricably mixed up in one textured and vibrant tapestry. Troubled and triumphant – the story of these places and their peoples will never fully be told. And that is their infinite, intoxicating allure.
“Szabadság, szerelem! E kettö nekem.”
Freedom and love. How much I need them both.
(Sándor Petöfi, Hungary’s poet of the revolution, in 1848)



































