I longed for the breakfast that I will satisfy me – half-boiled
eggs, slightly sweet and burnt tea and coconut jam toast (kaya toast). But I
did not get a taste of it on the lazy Saturday morning. Instead, I had dumplings
filled with juicy prawns (ha-kao), pork dumplings that had a large portion of
meat (siumai) and egg tarts with crusts that will crumble when I bite through
it, served by two middle-aged Chinese ladies who peppered the order conversation
with Cantonese.
I was sceptical when my husband asked me to join him on his
market trip. Unlike him, I’m not one that is fascinated by the myriad of raw ingredients
and esoteric items sold in a market. Perhaps esoteric items may interest me, but
I will be drawn to it for its relationship with the social setting it is placed
in rather than its use as an ingredient in food. For example, I was drawn to
the messy provision shop run by old men that was amidst government-subsidised
flats (HDB). As I did not have any errands to run at that time, and I did not
have any urgency to start my to-do list for the day, I agreed to be the compliant
partner who follows to the market because my husband wanted me to.
We conveniently drove to Cheng San market at Ang Mo Kio Ave
10 and found it easy to find a place to park. As I walked towards the market, I
saw food stores on the left and the wet market on my right, with rows of shops patronised
by people living in the neighbourhood in both. The pace of sauntering was
slower there compared to other wet markets. People were sitting on coffee
tables and purchasing ingredients for their family in the wet market. These
people seem to be in the moment rather than checking off a task list for the
day. I stood there observing the scene, and felt pleasant but slightly taken
aback by the reality I was in. It was different from the goal-oriented
task-completer that I have become.
I was drawn to the minced meat noodles (bak-chor-mee) store
in front of me – it has been awhile since I had salty, spicy and tasty noodles.
My husband gestured me to walk further down, as there were 10 times more stalls
than what I saw in front of me. Obediently, I followed. He knows the market
better than I. We agreed to reconvene after he bought ingredients from the wet
market. I will buy breakfast for both of us.
I took my time to decide on the food that will be my
lazy-morning breakfast. After all, it would take my husband longer to purchase
ingredients for our house-warming party the following week than I would take to
buy breakfast. The first food I decided to buy was the sweet sauce carrot cake
(chai-tau-kueh). The transaction occurred rather swiftly. I then went on my
noodle-hunt again. Perhaps there were tastier noodles than the minced meat
noodles store.
I saw a duck noodles store. They displayed pictures of food
they were selling and they look good, and the uncooked noodles that I could see
through their glass-window store were of good quality. Perhaps I was also drawn
to the few newspaper blurbs that featured their stall, although if I was asked,
I will be unwilling to admit to the Singaporean quality of eating food that has
been socially-approved. I then ordered a
duck drumstick noodle from the couple who owned the store. An honest short
conversation ensued.
“Is the dish S$5.00?” I asked, as the price displayed was
blurred by a masking tape.
“No, it is S$5.50. If the duck drumstick came with noodles,
it would cost S$1.00 more because the cost price of the noodles is already 50
cents. If it was paired with rice, it would be additional 50 cents,” she said,
patiently explaining to me the reason for the price.
I was surprised by how revealing she was with her cost
price. I suspect I hid my expression well, as she continued to explain her
pricing scheme.
“Do you make the noodles yourself?” I asked.
“We order the noodles from a chef who specialises in making
them. He makes noodles for hotels as well,” she said. I could see the pride in
her face as she answered, tacitly acknowledging the qualities of her noodles.
“No wonder it is more expensive than normal noodles!” I
quipped, having understood from my husband’s restaurant business that noodles
per plate were not as expensive as 50 cents.
By then, her husband has prepared the noodles, and we
thanked each other before I left.
I then walked passed a couple of rows of food stalls to go to
the dim sum store. I love dim sum, but good ones are hard to find. I remembered
that the dim sum from this market tasted good when my husband bought them for
me about a month ago.
“Do you have ha-kao, siumai and dan-ta (egg tart)?” I asked
in Mandarin.
“Yes, we do have, is that all?” the younger lady at the
store asked.
I nodded my head. She then asked a next question, which I
was delighted with. My delight came from a simple reason, as what she said was
typical of what a food stall owner would ask.
“Sek asi pao?” she asked, wondering whether I was eating at
the food stores or taking away.
I have not heard Cantonese spoke to me in a natural setting
in Singapore when I order food from food store owners. I have experienced ordering
food in Hokkien. They will reply in either Mandarin or English. This annoys me
,
as it connotes that I cannot speak their language. It particularly ticks me off
when they will speak English to me and when they turn back to talk to their
family members making food, they will speak in Hokkien. There seems to be a
barrier between customer and owner, a formality and professionalism that cannot
be breached even when the mother tongue is used.
“Sek,” I happily answered, continuing the conversation in
her mother tongue.
“Gei Doh Chin?” I asked her, wondering how much the three
ha-kaos, three siumais and three egg tarts will cost.
“Gau Man,” the older lady answered, which is 9 dollars. It is
more expensive than I thought it would be, but I willingly paid for it. Perhaps
because I know it was of good quality, perhaps it was because I had a pleasant encounter
with the two ladies. Perhaps it is for the “at-the-moment-ness” that I
experience from the dim sum store and from the duck noodles store, something so
rare in Singapore, yet so real to life. I walked away from the food store, with
a slight discomfort in me. I long for these moments, yet have not experience it
often in the past year. It probably speaks more of the dissonance in my
character than the morning I experience. Thank you, food store owners for being
nice. My half-boiled eggs, slightly sweet and burnt tea and kaya toast can wait
another week.

