Things I love about Las Vegas
Jul. 19th, 2015 03:56 pmSome years ago, I went to Las Vegas for the first time with an ex and his primary, and had a blast. It's become a place I miss when I haven't been there in a while. I was extremely surprised by this, and if you know me at all, you probably are too.
I just wrote up an email to a friend who I am trying to tempt into visiting Vegas with me, full of my favorite things to do and eat in Las Vegas. I've edited my gushing slightly for a blog audience.
I should also say that even the awful parts of Las Vegas turned out to be interesting to me in ways I didn't expect. Seeing all of it firsthand, especially in contrast to the deserts and mountains and vastness of the land, gave me many thinky thoughts about the meanings and values of plenty and excess. It is always an intensely interesting sociological experience for me.
Springs Preserve has botanical and educational gardens, natural and social history stuff, and a museum. This is where Las Vegas keeps all 16 of its hippies! Their educational gardens explain xeriscaping and sustainable planting in the desert, and even feature exhibits about gardening for the blind and low-vision and for the mobility impaired.
The next-door city of Henderson, NV has a water reclamation facility that is also a target for incredible numbers of migratory birds, and you can walk the trails and see both local and traveling species. If you are a birdwatcher at all, this is the place to visit.
Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area is right outside of Las Vegas and has a lot of stark mountains, amazing exposed geology, a natural desert spring, and sometimes WILD BURROS. I saw and touched my first waterfall there. It was a seasonal snowmelt waterfall in March 2010 (just after I got off the crutches after being hit by a car at the end of 2009). The water made the air around it cold and there was ice at the foot of the waterfall. This is one of my favorite memories.
The first time I visited the Valley of Fire, I was alone. I'd been traveling in the southwest for about a week and a half at that point, but this was the first time I saw rocks that were actually the colors of flames. They were the color of red rocks on TV, and I was completely unprepared for that shade of red to exist in nature. (Then I drove round a curve in the road and saw a giant TV boom vehicle parked by the side of the road. I cleverly concluded that that is WHY the red rocks here look like the red rocks on TV.) The shrubs are silver-blue-green, which is strictly incredible against the rocks and the red sand, and there are petroglyphs and you can walk up to a natural tank (a place in the rock that holds water most of the year round). I heart this place so freaking much.
Lake Mead is a little farther than Valley of Fire in the same direction. It's a giant reservoir in the desert formed by the Hoover Dam. However, the water levels are at record lows, and it's usually full of people with yachts and jetskis that they towed across the desert to go recreating on Lake Mead. It's worth seeing, it's lovely, but I don't personally consider it a primary attraction.
The Mohave Preserve is probably the best place to experience the ecosystem of the Mohave desert (deserts are named and delineated depending on where certain key species live, so the Mohave desert ecosystem is larger than the preserve). The preserve is an excellent place to just be overwhelmed by the desert- flatness that goes on until suddenly mountains, joshua trees and cholla and other things that barely look like plants. It also has a cinder cone (a former volcanic eruption site) and singing sand dunes, neither of which I've gotten to see yet. The Mohave is definitely a full-day trip, it's about a two-hour drive from Las Vegas to the Visitor's Center in Kelso. There's nowhere to stay or buy food in the park, but there are a few teeny communities on the edges that have some food and might have bare-bones lodging.
Death Valley is a little farther than the Mohave, about 2.5 hours of driving. There's lodging in the park, and also camping. The lowest point in the US, Badwater Basin, is there, and you can go walk on the salt flats, which is an unreal and otherworldly experience that I cannot recommend too highly. There are also cinder cones and mountains. One of my trips to Death Valley involved a day where it was 30F and snowing on the lower slopes of the cinder cones and 60F and sunny at Badwater. The park is huge, and the roads are slower than the Mohave, so getting to different parts of the park can take time.
There's also Joshua Tree National Park, which is another part of the Mohave Desert, but it's more rolling hills and spiky trees. It's also 3.5-4.5 hours from Las Vegas, so an overnight away from the city is definitely recommended. It's amazing, but I think the Mohave is cooler.
Aburiya Raku is a yakitori place that makes their own homemade tofu (with green tea sea salt!). They do meat on skewers, lovingly charcoal-grilled. Yep, they're pricy. Also they are maaaaaagical. Their bacon-wrapped asparagus is a transcendent experience.
Madhouse Coffee is a socialist (Marxist maybe?) 24-hour coffeeshop. TAKE MY MONEY. They're fucking adorable.
Aloha Kitchen is a smallish local Hawaiian barbecue chain. It's hard to describe what Hawaiian barbecue is, besides full of meat and carbs, but it's really good.
Poke Express doesn't have a website. They serve poke (poke-ay), which is Hawaiian. It's raw fish in a sweet, soy, or spicy sauce (or multiple of those adjectives) with seaweed salad salad on warm sushi rice. It is amaze.
Fat Choy (warning: PDF) is a restaurant in a small casino (outside the main Las Vegas mess) that serves handmade bao (Chinese savory buns). Since they're handmade, they're a little like tacos- a soft, steamed bread wrapped around meat and vegetables. They're worth going into a casino for, and the waitstaff have always been surprised and gratified to see people come in specifically to eat bao.
Hash House A Go Go is a smallish local chain specializing in Food Bigger Than Your Head. It's intimidating quantities of food. It's sort of "American farm food" with a little bit of fancyness and entire branches of rosemary, from places where rosemary is a TREE. I like going there for breakfast and having leftovers for picnicking in the desert later. :D
Luv-It Frozen Custard has excellent frozen custard and excellent toppings, such that if you get banana custard with a banana, they both taste like real actual bananas!
Hue Thai's Sandwiches is a Vietnamese restaurant (no website) that sells excellent Vietnamese sandwiches. They're inexpensive and travel well and also make good picnic food.
I just wrote up an email to a friend who I am trying to tempt into visiting Vegas with me, full of my favorite things to do and eat in Las Vegas. I've edited my gushing slightly for a blog audience.
I should also say that even the awful parts of Las Vegas turned out to be interesting to me in ways I didn't expect. Seeing all of it firsthand, especially in contrast to the deserts and mountains and vastness of the land, gave me many thinky thoughts about the meanings and values of plenty and excess. It is always an intensely interesting sociological experience for me.
Nature stuff, ordered from nearby to farther away:
Springs Preserve has botanical and educational gardens, natural and social history stuff, and a museum. This is where Las Vegas keeps all 16 of its hippies! Their educational gardens explain xeriscaping and sustainable planting in the desert, and even feature exhibits about gardening for the blind and low-vision and for the mobility impaired.
The next-door city of Henderson, NV has a water reclamation facility that is also a target for incredible numbers of migratory birds, and you can walk the trails and see both local and traveling species. If you are a birdwatcher at all, this is the place to visit.
Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area is right outside of Las Vegas and has a lot of stark mountains, amazing exposed geology, a natural desert spring, and sometimes WILD BURROS. I saw and touched my first waterfall there. It was a seasonal snowmelt waterfall in March 2010 (just after I got off the crutches after being hit by a car at the end of 2009). The water made the air around it cold and there was ice at the foot of the waterfall. This is one of my favorite memories.
The first time I visited the Valley of Fire, I was alone. I'd been traveling in the southwest for about a week and a half at that point, but this was the first time I saw rocks that were actually the colors of flames. They were the color of red rocks on TV, and I was completely unprepared for that shade of red to exist in nature. (Then I drove round a curve in the road and saw a giant TV boom vehicle parked by the side of the road. I cleverly concluded that that is WHY the red rocks here look like the red rocks on TV.) The shrubs are silver-blue-green, which is strictly incredible against the rocks and the red sand, and there are petroglyphs and you can walk up to a natural tank (a place in the rock that holds water most of the year round). I heart this place so freaking much.
Lake Mead is a little farther than Valley of Fire in the same direction. It's a giant reservoir in the desert formed by the Hoover Dam. However, the water levels are at record lows, and it's usually full of people with yachts and jetskis that they towed across the desert to go recreating on Lake Mead. It's worth seeing, it's lovely, but I don't personally consider it a primary attraction.
The Mohave Preserve is probably the best place to experience the ecosystem of the Mohave desert (deserts are named and delineated depending on where certain key species live, so the Mohave desert ecosystem is larger than the preserve). The preserve is an excellent place to just be overwhelmed by the desert- flatness that goes on until suddenly mountains, joshua trees and cholla and other things that barely look like plants. It also has a cinder cone (a former volcanic eruption site) and singing sand dunes, neither of which I've gotten to see yet. The Mohave is definitely a full-day trip, it's about a two-hour drive from Las Vegas to the Visitor's Center in Kelso. There's nowhere to stay or buy food in the park, but there are a few teeny communities on the edges that have some food and might have bare-bones lodging.
Death Valley is a little farther than the Mohave, about 2.5 hours of driving. There's lodging in the park, and also camping. The lowest point in the US, Badwater Basin, is there, and you can go walk on the salt flats, which is an unreal and otherworldly experience that I cannot recommend too highly. There are also cinder cones and mountains. One of my trips to Death Valley involved a day where it was 30F and snowing on the lower slopes of the cinder cones and 60F and sunny at Badwater. The park is huge, and the roads are slower than the Mohave, so getting to different parts of the park can take time.
There's also Joshua Tree National Park, which is another part of the Mohave Desert, but it's more rolling hills and spiky trees. It's also 3.5-4.5 hours from Las Vegas, so an overnight away from the city is definitely recommended. It's amazing, but I think the Mohave is cooler.
Food:
Aburiya Raku is a yakitori place that makes their own homemade tofu (with green tea sea salt!). They do meat on skewers, lovingly charcoal-grilled. Yep, they're pricy. Also they are maaaaaagical. Their bacon-wrapped asparagus is a transcendent experience.
Madhouse Coffee is a socialist (Marxist maybe?) 24-hour coffeeshop. TAKE MY MONEY. They're fucking adorable.
Aloha Kitchen is a smallish local Hawaiian barbecue chain. It's hard to describe what Hawaiian barbecue is, besides full of meat and carbs, but it's really good.
Poke Express doesn't have a website. They serve poke (poke-ay), which is Hawaiian. It's raw fish in a sweet, soy, or spicy sauce (or multiple of those adjectives) with seaweed salad salad on warm sushi rice. It is amaze.
Fat Choy (warning: PDF) is a restaurant in a small casino (outside the main Las Vegas mess) that serves handmade bao (Chinese savory buns). Since they're handmade, they're a little like tacos- a soft, steamed bread wrapped around meat and vegetables. They're worth going into a casino for, and the waitstaff have always been surprised and gratified to see people come in specifically to eat bao.
Hash House A Go Go is a smallish local chain specializing in Food Bigger Than Your Head. It's intimidating quantities of food. It's sort of "American farm food" with a little bit of fancyness and entire branches of rosemary, from places where rosemary is a TREE. I like going there for breakfast and having leftovers for picnicking in the desert later. :D
Luv-It Frozen Custard has excellent frozen custard and excellent toppings, such that if you get banana custard with a banana, they both taste like real actual bananas!
Hue Thai's Sandwiches is a Vietnamese restaurant (no website) that sells excellent Vietnamese sandwiches. They're inexpensive and travel well and also make good picnic food.
