The foundation pattern and instructions changed from the early 1920s and Book 1, where there was no true dress foundation pattern, to the mid-1960s and Book 41. The major changes came in c.1926, when the Haslams included the first true dress foundation pattern in their books; in 1931, when styles changed and waistlines came back in; and in 1945, when the shoulder line changed.
As always when working with the Haslam books, most of the years are approximate, based on styles, notes from the original owners, and some of the ephemera available. I believe most of the main books of illustrated draftings were published August or September, in preparation for any new styles coming in.
- The Illustrated Drafting books were published from 1924 to 1946.
- The Spring and Summer books were published from 1931 to 1953
- The Lingerie books were published from 1936 to 1956 (it looks like they were published every other year, dates are very approximate). Before the standalone books, lingerie items were included in the Illustrated Drafting books.
- The Autumn and Winter books take up where the Illustrated Drafting books left off and were published from 1947 to 1952.
- From Autumn 1953 to 1964/65 only one book per year was published for Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter – books 30 to 41.
- Between 1953 and 1954, G.A. Haslam, who originated the system, is no longer listed as the author on the books. Her sister, F.A. Haslam, is listed.
- There were children’s and teens’ books published, dates for those forthcoming.
| Illustrated Drafting Book | Year and Changes to the Foundation |
|---|---|
| 1 | 1924 No dress foundation draft, just one for a bust bodice. No illustrations of the drafts. |
| 2 | 1925 No foundation draft, all items drafted directly with the chart No illustrations of the drafts. |
| 3 | 1926 Dress foundation draft included. No illustrations of the drafts Start by drafting the front foundation Hip line is 15 inches down to give the underarm line. The underarm line is shaped by scooping in 1/2 inch as shown in the diagram. Front hip line is drafted as 1/4 of the hip measurement + 1 1/2 inches. Back hip line is drafted as 1/4 of the hip measurement – 1/2 inch. There is no dot 3. You are not missing anything. |
| 4 | 1927 Dot 4 is now Dot 3. Hip line is made 16 inches down from Dot 3. |
| 5 | 1928 First illustrated drafts. Start by drafting the back foundation. Hip line is made 14 inches down from Dot 3. Underarm line is shaped by scooping in 1/2 inch 7 inches down from Dot 3. |
| 6 | 1929 Hip line is 14 inches down from Dot 3. 13 inches for a short figure. Back hip line is drafted as 1/4 of the hip measurement – 1 inch. Underarm line is shaped by scooping in 1/2 inch 7 inches down from Dot 3. 6 1/2 inches for a short figure. |
| 7 | 1930 Same as Book 6. For the underarm line, only 13 inches is marked on the foundation diagram. Front hip line is now drafted as 1/4 of the hip measurement + 1 inch. |
| 8 | 1931 Hip line is 13 inches down from Dot 3. Underarm line is shaped by scooping in 1/2 inch 6 1/2 inches down from Dot 3. |
| 9 | 1932 4 foundation drafts included – one plain, two with a fitted waist, and one for a round neck. The Underarm measurement is included to mark the position of the waistline. |
| 10 | 1933 2 foundation drafts included – one plain, and one with a fitted waist. Fitted waist uses shoulder tucks for shaping. Back fitted waist uses waist dart. 4 sleeve foundation drafts included. |
| 11 | 1934 2 foundation drafts included – one plain, and one with a fitted waist. Back fitted waist foundation – mark in 3/4 inch at the waist line. Fitted waist foundation – Back and Front foundations with waistline darts. 5 sleeve foundation drafts included. Includes an entire page of sleeves. |
| 12 | 1935 3 foundation drafts included. Includes foundation draft for a blouse sleeve and a dress sleeve. Includes an entire page of sleeves and another of collars. Plain and fitted back and front foundation scoop in 3/4 inch at waistline. Fitted foundation includes shoulder dart. |
| 13 | 1936 2 foundation drafts included. Includes a page of sleeves and a page of collars. |
| 14 | 1937 Same as 13 |
| 15 | 1938 Only fitted foundation available. Includes dress sleeve foundation. |
| 16 | 1939 One foundation available (is now the same as the Early 1940s foundation). Includes dress sleeve foundation. The waistline is now made by measuring in 1 inch at Dot 5. |
| 17 | 1940 Use Book 16 foundation. |
| 18 | 1941 Use the Early 1940s foundation. Helpful Hints now included in main illustrated drafting books. |
| 19 | 1942 Early 1940s foundation |
| 20 | 1943 Early 1940s foundation |
| 21 | 1944 Early 1940s foundation |
| 22 | 1945 Early 1940s foundation |
| 23 | 1946 Use the Late 1940s foundation. The armhole line changes, deepening by 1/2 inch on the bodice front, while the back shoulder is raised by 1/2 inch. |
Spring and Summer Books
| Spring and Summer Book | Year and Foundation to Use |
| 1 | 1931 Book 8 foundation |
| 2 | 1932 Book 9 foundation |
| 3 | 1933 Book 10 foundation |
| 4 | 1934 Book 11 foundation |
| 5 | 1935 Book 12 foundation |
| 6 | 1936 Book 13 foundation |
| 7 | 1937 – Coronation Number Book 14 foundation |
| 8 | 1938 Book 15 foundation |
| 9 | 1939 Early 1940s foundation |
| 10 | 1940 Early 1940s foundation |
| 11 | 1941 Early 1940s foundation |
| 12 | 1942 Early 1940s foundation |
| 13 | 1943 Early 1940s foundation |
| 14 | 1944 Early 1940s foundation |
| 15 | 1945 Early 1940s foundation |
| 16 | 1946 Late 1940s foundation |
| 17 | 1947 Late 1940s foundation |
| 18 | 1948 Late 1940s foundation |
| 19 | 1949 Late 1940s foundation |
| 20 | 1950 Late 1940s foundation |
| 21 | 1951 Late 1940s foundation |
| 22 | 1952 Late 1940s foundation |
| 23 | 1952 – Coronation Number Late 1940s foundation |
Autumn and Winter Books
| Autumn/Winter Book | Year and Foundation Pattern to Use |
| 24 | 1947 Late 1940s foundation |
| 25 | 1948 Late 1940s foundation |
| 26 | 1949 Late 1940s foundation |
| 27 | 1950 Late 1940s foundation |
| 28 | 1951 Late 1940s foundation |
| 29 | 1952 Late 1940s foundation |
Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter
| SSAW Book | Year and Foundation Pattern to Use |
| 30 | 1953 Late 1940s foundation May also need a Magyar shoulder foundation Or Foundation No. 2 |
| 31 | 1955 Late 1940s foundation May also need a Magyar shoulder foundation Or Foundation No. 2 |
| 32 | 1956 Late 1940s foundation May also need a Magyar shoulder foundation Or Foundation No. 2 |
| 33 | 1957 Late 1940s foundation May also need a Magyar shoulder foundation Or Foundation No. 2 |
| 34 | 1958 Late 1940s foundation May also need a Magyar shoulder foundation Or Foundation No. 2 |
| 35 | 1959 Late 1940s foundation May also need a Magyar shoulder foundation Or Foundation No. 2 |
| 36 | 1960 Late 1940s foundation May also need a Magyar shoulder foundation Or Foundation No. 2 |
| 37 | 1961 Late 1940s foundation May also need a Magyar shoulder foundation Or Foundation No. 2 |
| 38 | 1962 Late 1940s foundation May also need a Magyar shoulder foundation Or Foundation No. 2 |
| 39 | 1963 Late 1940s foundation May also need a Magyar shoulder foundation Or Foundation No. 2 |
| 40 | 1964 Late 1940s foundation May also need a Magyar shoulder foundation Or Foundation No. 2 |
| 41 | 1964/1965 Late 1940s foundation May also need a Magyar shoulder foundation Or Foundation No. 2 |
Lingerie Books
Dates extremely approximate
| Lingerie Book | Year and Foundation Pattern to Use |
| 1 | 1936 Book 13 foundation |
| 2 | 1938 Book 15 foundation |
| 3 | 1940 Early 1940s foundation |
| 4 | 1942 Early 1940s foundation |
| 5 | 1944 Early 1940s foundation |
| 6 | 1945/1946 Late 1940s foundation |
| 7 | 1948 Late 1940s foundation |
| 8 | 1950 Late 1940s foundation |
| 9 | 1952 Late 1940s foundation |
| 10 | 1955 Late 1940s foundation |
| 11 | 1956 Late 1940s foundation |
Children’s Wear
Date approximate, based on Haslam information flyers with dates.
| Book Number | Date |
| 1 | 1937 |
| 2 | ? |
| 3 | ? |
| 4 | 1942 |
| 5 | 1943 |
| 6 | 1944 |
| 7 | 1945 |
| 8 | 1946 |
| 9 | 1947 |
Drafting Haslam 
