Quick trip to Ilha Formosa

We had the opportunity this June (2016) to take a trip to Taiwan.  Both Brenda and John had the chance to give papers at the 23rd Pacific Science Congress which was being held in Taipei.  At the last moment (well, the week before we left) Sam decided to join us.  It was the first time to Taiwan for Sam and Brenda.  John lived near Taipei 25 years ago for about one year teaching English as a Second Language.  He was especially excited to see some of the places he had been to before, and to see friends from that year in 1991.  We visited with John’s landlord, David Wen, and were really treated well by him and his family.  It was wonderful to see them.  They took us to vegetarian buffet and back to the house John lived in when he was there.  Our first day in Taipei we spent with another of John’s friends from 1991–Sean Frost.  Together with Sean’s wife Wanda and two kids, Ian and Leah we were treated to food and shown around the Shilin neighborhood of Taipei.  What was really terrific was that the Frosts were going to allow us to stay at their apartment for our entire time in Taiwan!  They were going to the US the next day and gave us the keys to their flat on the top floor of a great apartment in a wonderful section of Taipei.  The flat was located  just 5 minutes walking distance to the metro so it was a great place for “home base.” It made travelling to and from the the conference, other parts of the city, and other places in northern Taiwan incredibly easy.  So, that’s the basic intro to this story….the rest will be shared in pictures.  Sai jen!

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We were pleasantly surprised to find that one of the stewardesses on our flight to Hong Kong was a friend, Talica Malani!

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We landed in Taipei in the evening.  The next morning we walked around our hostel  First impression:  Lots and lots of motor scooters!

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This was our hostel the first night in Taipei. The Happy Taipei Hostel. Very tight quarters packed into four floors.

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We were lucky to have a three bed dorm to ourselves!

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Our first day we visited with Sean Frost and his Family.  We were shown around their neighborhood as it was where we would be living for the next two weeks!

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Although we only had one day together, we enjoyed the company and John & Sean spent lots of time reminiscing about old times.

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The next day we visited with David, Miranda and Cathy Wen.  David Wen was John’s Landlord in 1991 and Cathy was his student.  This was at a great vegetarian restaurant they chose for Brenda.

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This was the place John lived.  It was a sparse one-room flat above the garage.  The best thing about it was that it was free!  David let John stay here in exchange for teaching his two children Cathy and Glen.

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Group Photo at the Longtan Buddhist Temple.

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Dragon Fruit!

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Leechee and Guava!

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At Shimin Reservoir.  This is where 25 years ago Sean and John went swimming (unbeknownst to them–illegally)

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Sam and David rubbing the lucky gold bar at the Longtan Temple

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Longtan Temple

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These are some cool night photos Sam took from the roof of the Frosts’  apartment (15th floor).

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A look down at the front entrance to the apartment.

 

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The location was really outstanding!

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Slow shutter photography of the metro.

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Another cool shot of the metro just a 5 minute walk from the Frosts’ apartment.

So, we were able to afford to come to Taiwan for two reasons:  First, we were fortunate that both John and Brenda received funding from USP to come to give presentations at the Pacific Science Congress, and second because living at the Frosts’ home for two weeks made it affordable–and possible–to bring Sam along.  The Pacific Science Congress was interesting, but once we got our deeds done, we skedaddled.

Taipei is an intriguing city, and very large.  There is so much to do just in Taipei, and we couldn’t do it all!  But we did a few things.  We walked to the Tianmu Trail which is an urban forest just on the edge of north Taipei, we visited the Longshan Temple, toured the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial, and indulged in foods at the Shilin and Huaxi Night Markets.

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Our first little excursion out of Taipei was to the small mountain town of Jiufen.  During the Japanese occupation (early 1900s through the end of WWII) Jiufen was a prosperous mining (gold) town.  Today it’s a tourist destination, a lot like Park City, Utah or Bisbee, Arizona.  It is very quaint indeed.  The streets are narrow and looking at homes today, it is not hard to imagine what it was like in its hey-day. We spent two nights and one full day there. Our hostel (The Flip Flop Hostel) was  pretty hip.

 

Our next excursion was the Taroko National Park.  The park is one of four national parks in Taiwan and is centered on the Taroko river and gorge.  The gorge is narrow with steep cliffs of granite, gneiss and marble rock throughout.  It is famous for beautiful scenery and also because it was/is home to many of Taiwan’s aboriginal people.  We spent two nights at a hostel at the mouth of the gorge.  The hostel was pleasant and we were lucky to get a three bed room to ourselves.

After visiting Taroko National Park we returned to Taipei for one more day before leaving for home.  We flew all night and arrived in Nadi at 7 am on the 24th of June–which turned out to be National Sports Day.  Meaning there were fewer buses leaving from Nadi to Suva than there normally would be.  After waiting a couple of hours we finally caught a bus and endured a 4 hour ride in a bus that was packed tight with as many people as a bus in Fiji can hold (which is a lot).  The picture below is one that Brenda took of a guy who kept dozing off to sleep and leaning over–in to the aisle–from the window seat!  (note the guy in the green shirt is in the aisle seat!). We were back in Fiji.  We were home.

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Meke at Mana Choral Fest 2013

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Mana Choral Fest 2013

You’ll see Sam and his friend Rui at about 0:28, but you need to be looking on the movie screen…

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Hindus in Fiji

Most of the posts to this blog have shown Fijian (iTaukei) culture and sometimes we forget that there are many here of Indian descent. In fact, just over a decade ago Indians outnumbered ethnic Fijians (iTaukei).  Much of the political unrest in Fiji over the last couple of decades (and 3 coups) is rooted in the cultural struggles and political differences between these two groups.  Since about 2000 there has been significant emigration of the Indian Fijians to Australia, New Zealand, Canada, and the U.S.  Now Fijians of Indian descent make up only about 40 percent of the total population.

Indians were brought to Fiji as indentured laborers by the British in the late 1800s to work on the sugar cane plantations.  Most of them were poor and uneducated and were duped into believing Fiji was not far from home and that after their 5 year commitment, they could easily return to India.  Well, Fiji is not close to India and at the end of their 5 year contract many found out that while they were free to leave, they didn’t have the money to do so.  Having left India the workers typically abandoned the caste system and married outside their caste–another reason to not return home.  As a result many stayed in Fiji working the plantations and in some cases, prospering.  Many became business owners and have been successful professionals in medicine and law.

Most Indian Fijians have retained their religious heritage and are practicing Hindus and Muslims.   One of the Hindu traditions that continues today is fire walking accompanied by body piercing.  The Hindus in Fiji have this ceremony at the end of August.  We recently found out about the ceremony and on the first night went to visit the Ashram where the fire walking was to take place.  Two days later we followed the procession of fire walkers (bodies pierced with small lancets) who had walked from the sea (just near my office) to the Ashram for the fire walking ceremony.  Below are some of the pictures.  To read more about Hindu fire walking click here.  To read more about the Thaipusam festival and body piercing click here.

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First night at the Ashram

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At the Ashram

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Firewood stacked and ready for the fire walking

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A trio of boys who asked to have their picture taken

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Looking on at the ceremony at the Ashram

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Fire walker procession from the sea to the Ashram (two days later)

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Body piercing

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Ouch!

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Lord Krishna dancing

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Within the buckets on their heads they carry sea water

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A cute Hindu girl seems a bit concerned about who’s taking her picture!

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Red dye and pumpkin mark the path of the procession

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Finally arrived at the Ashram to watch the fire walking….very large crowds!

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Getting ready for the big event…

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The walking begins….ouch!

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Actually it doesn’t really hurt if you know what you’re doing..honest..I saw it on an episode of Mythbusters…

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The Ashram is also a Hindu school. I think this is where Toby should go…

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Sadhu Kapuswami…founder of the Sangam

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No drunkards.

 

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Around the Island and Up to the Top

The island where we live, Viti Levu, is the largest of the Fiji Islands, and Viti Levu is home to Fiji’s tallest mountain, Tomaniivi (Mt. Victoria), which is also the point of origin of Fiji’s two largest rivers. Over a highly superlative weekend last month, we circumnavigated Viti Levu and also climbed to the top of Tomaniivi. Our journey took us out of Suva on the King’s road, over some beautiful terrain.

View Map of our trip

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Bilibili off King’s Road

We passed through some friendly villages…

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Along the King’s Road

…and many sugarcane fields…

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Cow and Sugarcane Field

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Cane Train

…and quite a few other interesting landscapes.

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Perfect Volcanic Cone

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Sunset above Tavua

We spent our first night of the weekend at Navai Village, at the base of Tomaniivi. The custom is to have permission from the village chief to stay in the village, and also to present a gift of kava roots (which would later be pounded into powder and suspended in water to make a traditional drink) in show of our appreciation. We had arranged beforehand to stay with a family who were friends of a friend of ours, and they took care of the formalities.

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Toby and the Sevusevu

Unfortunately, we arrived shortly after the patriarch of the family had passed away, and we were in the awkward position of being guests while funeral preparations were going on. The family was very gracious, however, and did their best to make us feel at home.

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Sam and Toby with Navai Village Host Family, Surrounded by Funeral Decor.

We ate and slept in a communal building.

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Common Sleeping Quarters

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Our Accomodation–Navai

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Our Bathroom, Navai

The only problem we had was that our shoes kept disappearing! The kids apparently wanted to try on everyone’s shoes, and we would have to go hunt them down every once in a while. Below on the left is a picture of the main culprit, wearing her own shoes.

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Navai Village Kids

Breakfast consisted of fried scones and lemon-leaf tea.

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Village Kids and Breakfast–Babakau and Draunimoli

And then we were on our way up the mountain, with a constant drizzle to accompany us.

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Mt. Victoria: The Journey Begins

Very soon the trail became very narrow, muddy, slippery and steep.

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The Old Man and His Walking Stick

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Toby with Maciu, Our Guide

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Flora on Tomaniivi

Two barefoot village boys caught up to us on the ascent, travelling very sure-footed and quick, in spite of the rain and mud. When we reached the summit, at 1, 323 meters, we couldn’t see a thing, because the whole mountain was engulfed in  a cloud…but we did it!

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At the summit of Tomaniivi

On our return trip toward Suva on the Queen’s Road, we stopped at the Sigatoka Sand Dunes on the Coral Coast. The Sigatoka Sand Dunes formed over thousands of years, as sediments deposited at the mouth of the Sigatoka River into the ocean were pushed back up onto shore by the southeast tradewinds. The dunes stretch out for five km, and in some places are twenty meters high. Not only do the dunes create a spectacular landscape, but they are also archaeologically significant, as winds continue to uncover pottery, stone tools and remains of early settlers to Fiji. The dunes have  been protected as a National Park since 1989.

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Sigatoka Sand Dunes

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Fiji facts

Facts of life in Suva: You could find a dead toad on your driveway tomorrow morning; you could find a live cockroach crawling in your bedsheets; it could rain in torrents for a whole week; most dogs are vicious and/or mangy; when you find something in the store that you really need, you should buy lots of it, because it might not be there tomorrow (or ever again). On the other hand, there are always excellent pineapples to buy at the market; you will never have a frosty windshield in the morning; your own big friendly dog is feared by everyone, and is a great burglar deterrent; you can run through the jungle for thirty minutes and cool down in any of the many freshwater pools available; indoor geckos are friendly mosquito hunters; to get your kids away from the computer, they can take weekly sailing lessons, or join archery club, or play in the innumerable rugby matches going on every day, rain or shine.

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Weekend in Savusavu

A town of about 5,ooo people, beautiful Savusavu is the main port for the island of Vanua Levu, Fiji’s second biggest island. Savusavu sits on a sheltered portion of Savusavu Bay, and often plays host to travelling yachts. 
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We took an overnight ferry from Walu Bay, Suva to Savusavu (12+ hours!), and spent the long Easter weekend at the Hot Springs Hotel. 
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The hot springs, by the way, are way too hot to bathe in, but perfect for cooking!
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From our perch atop the town, we had incredible views!
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There are quite a few expatriots living in Savusavu, some of whom are descendants of  families who came to start copra plantations as early as the 1860’s. The result is Americanized food (yippee!)…

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…and plenty of fancy homes and resorts.

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One of the attractions in Savusavu is the J. Hunter Pearl Farm. The pearls produced here are highly variable in color, due partly to the types of oysters found in Savusavu, and partly to the culturing methods of the company. There are browns, greens, purples, pinks, blues, golds, etc. Like these:

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J. Hunter Pearls was closed and official tours were not given over the weekend, so we provided ourselves with a self-guided, albeit less informative tour. We rented sea kayaks from the local marina, packed up our snorkel gear, and paddled out to the buoys marking the farm on the other side of the bay.

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We were able to snorkel around the different strings of oysters of varying sizes, and get a look at the way the farm was set up. With no underwater camera this time around, we couldn’t take pictures of the farm, but following is a link to a video about it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8oGYwT7dZmE

From our last night in Savusavu, looking toward the ferry dock:Image

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Faces of Fiji

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Ethnic Fijians, Ind0-Fijians, Rotumans, Solomon Islanders, Tongans, Samoans, Kiribati, Tuvaluans, Nauruans, Papua New Guineans, Vanuatuans, Niueans, Cook Islanders, Koreans, Chinese, Japanese, Europeans, Australians, New Zealanders, Americans, and everything in-between! We are Fiji!

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New Year in New Zealand

For 2 1/2 weeks this January, we took a whirlwind tour of the beautiful country of New Zealand.  We flew into Auckland on a rainy New Year’s weekend, and were immediately impressed by the absence of potholes on the roads! Also notable was the lack of village-like familiarity of the New Zealanders–they were civil enough, but we missed the genuine Fijian welcomes to which we’d gotten accustomed. Our eyes were popping at the bounty available in the stores, but the prices were also eye-popping ($60 NZD for a hardback book)! We traveled by rental car through the North and South islands, exploring the cities and museums, experiencing the beauty of the landscape, enjoying some amusement rides, and glorifying in the cool air. Our route took us from Auckland to adventure country, Rotorua, to the Tongariro National Park, to the capital Wellington. From Wellington we took a ferry to the South Island. We visited Hokitika in jade country, the Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers, and Queenstown. We backpacked on the famous Routeburn Track,  stood 5 feet from sea lions and fur seals in Dunedin, and witnessed the process of rebuilding earthquake-damaged Christchurch.

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Takalana and Moon Reef

To celebrate Sam’s birthday during school break at the end of August, we drove to Takalana Bay Retreat in Tailevu, Viti Levu. Our primary reason for going was to dolphin-watch out at Moon Reef, where a pod of Spinner Dolphins (Stenella longirostris) can be seen every day, from morning until late afternoon. Spinner Dolphins are named for the way in which they leap in the air and spin around several times before diving back into the water. Unfortunately, even though we saw a few dolphins spin, we were never quick enough to capture it on camera. But they did swim right under our boat!

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Spinner Dolphins at Moon Reef

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Looking Toward Silana Village, Tailevu, From Moon Reef

 

Takalana itself is an amazing place to relax! Beautiful and comfortable:

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View Toward Moon Reef From Takalana

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Cozy Takalana Accomodations

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Dining "Room"

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Sleeping Beauty

The staff at Takalana are gracious and friendly.

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Takalana Staff

They gave us rugby lessons…

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Takalana Rugby Practice

…serenaded us during dinner…

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Dinner Serenade

…shared their young puppy with us…

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Jojo and Chucky at Takalana

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Sam Admires Chucky

…and took us on a walk into the surrounding hills.

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Pine, Palm and Mango Trees

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Pine Forest at Takalana

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Wild Pineapple

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Noni Fruit

Happy birthday, Sam!

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