It was a great pleasure to read my friends Kostis Kourelis and David Pettegrew’s (with Nikos Poulopoulos, Albert Sarvis, Alexandra Shehigian) article “Washingtonia 1829: an American refugee colony in Greece” in the most recent issue of the Journal of Greek Archaeology.
For those of you who don’t know, Washingtonia was the name of an early 19th century refugee settlement on the Isthmus of Corinth set up by Samuel Gridley Howe, managed by George Finlay, authorized by the Greek state, and briefly settled by refugees from the Greek War of Independence.
There more to this story than that, though. David Pettegrew has been searching for Washingtonia since around 2000. While working on the Eastern Korinthia Archaeological Survey, there was constant buzz about the location and character of this strange 19th century settlement set up by Samuel Gridley Howe. This prompted numerous efforts to locate the settlement, Howe’s house, the hospital, and other features (including the konak of Kiamil Bey). Over time, we came to realize that most of these features have simply disappeared without leaving much of a trace on the surface of the ground or in the architecture of various villages of the region. This was a sobering realization to us as survey archaeologists. Instead of the survey representing a palimpsest of past use, certain features including elite residences, institutional architecture, and entire settlements have disappeared leaving very little trace in the surface record.
[Full disclosure: It was never in my best interest to try to record the number of hours I spent driving slowly around the village of Hexamilia with Tim and Lita Gregory and David Pettegrew looking for traces of Washingtonia. Most recently, in 2023 (I think?), we managed one more slow speed driving field day through Hexamilion before one of us cracked and demanded that we stop this madness and get ice cream. This was well before one of us who had been in a small rental car, driving slowly through a village, tested positive for COVID. I am very pleased that they have been able to find traces of Washingtonia in Hexamilia, and part of me is also very happy to perhaps not talk about Washingtonia for a few years or… you know… ever again.]
Kostis, David, and their colleagues have used documents to fill the gap in the surface and architectural record and to reconstruct the landscape of Washingtonia. They have identified the location of the “manor house” of Samuel Gridley Howe which overlooked (and presumably supervised) the settlement. There is abundant room for metaphor here especially in relation to the idea of Greece as a crypto-colony. Howe’s interest in providing a school and a hospital as well as the panoptic perspective offered from his manor reads like a page from 1960s Foucault especially as Howe occupied the rebuilt the konak of the Ottoman Bey. The drone images offer an intriguing (and deliberate) parallel to the panopticism of Howe’s rebuilt house. This article is too modest in some ways; their analysis makes visible the colonialism of Howe’s philanthropy and reinforces his patronizing view of his mission.
This is a paper that was over 20 years in the making and embodies the best aspects of slow archaeology. Not only did the team demonstrate incredibly familiarity with the local landscape, but also brought together a remarkable array of evidence from 19th century maps, diaries, and archival documents to drone photography, artifacts on the surface, and contemporary architectural study. This patient approach to landscape not only helps us understand the Howe’s view of his work, but also traces the complex processes that transformed the Late Ottoman and Early Modern landscape. In the place of persistent places, the maps and landscape offer traces of settlement — ruined villages, clusters of houses, vanished and ruined buildings. Whatever persistence archaeology assumed in the countryside vanishes beneath modern buildings, agricultural activities, and vegetation leaving only the barest traces.
Their patience in reconstructing the landscape of the early 19th century (as well as early and later traces) reveals how ephemeral even early modern architecture and activities can be even under the scrutiny of 21st century archaeologists’ gaze. This is a vital reminder of the limits of archaeology not only for the most recent past, but for antiquity and the complexities of formation processes in shaping what we can see, recognize, and analyze. It seems almost certain that there is more work to do here especially near Kenchreai. This does little to undermine the significance of their work. David, Kostis, and their colleagues have managed to do what we 20 years ago seemed impossible: reconstructed the landscape of Samuel Gridley Howe’s Isthmus.




