Te Araroa 20/01/26

Day 121, Camp Stream Hut to Tekapo (2444)

It was cold last night but there was no frost in the morning, a pleasant night in the hut.

Leaving Camp Stream Hut 

A foot spa in the morning 

My feet didn't stay dry for long, I carefully avoided the boggy bits but then had to wade the river before climbing up to a plateau that I walked across for about fifteen kilometers.

Last good views of Mount Cook 

The views were not like yesterday, the mountains were cloudy and further away but I really enjoyed it not too hot or cold and the breeze behind me.

Looking back to the first part of the walk 

It was a lovely, level walk, dry ground and an easy trail to follow, ideal walking.

Amazing 

A few clouds made it interesting 

Golden Speargrass, the sharpest plant I have ever come across 

Good path on the plateau 

Lake Tekapo looking blue again

All good things come to an end though and I descended to the long gravel road to Tekapo.

Fourteen kilometers of gravel was plenty and I was happy to see Tekapo getting closer. I wasn't prepared for the number of campervans and people though, it is obviously a major tourist attraction and peak holiday season.

The long, long gravel road 

I had managed to book an overpriced bed in the hostel, which was full like most of the other even more overpriced accomodations.

Looking back wistfully to the hills 

The view of the lake from the hostel was good despite the parked campers but the village itself is really just a car park with tourist shops and cafes.

I organized a bike to ride the trail to Twizel tomorrow, it will make a change from walking.

Evening light over Lake Tekapo 

And a cloud on the hill

It was a fine night and there were some good pictures of the Aurora Borealis taken here but I had gone to bed and nobody saw anything special with the naked eye anyway.

Picture taken from Tekapo with the comment: 'sadly not this bright to the naked eye'

Te Araroa 19/01/26

Day 120, Royal Hut to Camp Stream Hut (2410)

Clear sky in the morning and the temperature was well below zero, I had a comfortable night but my shoes and socks were frozen and I had to melt them in the stream.

Royal Hut just catching the morning sun 

The temperature soon rose as the sun came up and I headed the wrong way from the hut only realizing that I was following the wrong stream after walking about a kilometer through the tussock grass, a bit of extra exercise.

Up by the now small Bush Stream 

Once on the right track it was a steady climb up by the stream with only a few easy crossings.

Looking back

The path then left the stream and climbed steeply up to the Stag Saddle (1925). There was a choice of route here me, either down the valley or along a high ridge.

Enough said 

The ridge route actually goes higher, 1944

It was a perfect day so it didn't require any thought and I contoured round the scree to the ridge.

Looking towards Mount Cook with the girl who was washed down the river

Amazing view, Lake Tekapo and the mountains around and including Mount Cook. Blue Lake, white mountain and all colours in between, fantastic.

Mount Cook range

And again 

The long easy ridge descent was a beautiful walk with the mountains and lake view in the sunshine, I had to keep stopping to stare.

Lake Tekapo. Yes the colour is real

The path dropped down at the end of the ridge to a track that crossed the Camp Stream and a short climb took me to the hut where there was an empty bed.

Unusual hut pursuit 

Five beds in the hut and four camping outside. We were all here early so spent most of the afternoon chatting and otherwise amusing ourselves in the sunshine.

Camp Stream Hut 

Te Araroa 18/01/26

Day 119, Geraldine to Royal Hut (2395)

It was a damp morning when I got the shuttle up to the trail head, seven people all hoping for a good days walk.

Shuttle to the start 

The rain had stopped by the time we reached Forest Creek and after some discussion about the state of the rivers we all decided to take the Forest Creek route rather than the more dangerous Bush Stream track.

Forest Creek,(the easy one!)

The Forest Creek route follows the river of the same name up the bank and then on the stones and gravel of the river bed.

First crossing 

There were three crossings of the main river, one of which was at the limit of my crossing ability, the other two easier before starting a steep climb up to the Bullock Bow Saddle (1692m)

Survived that one

At the end of the day I met a girl, who's name I have forgotten, who had been swept about thirty meters downstream and lost her pole and everything that was in the pockets of her rucksack.

Good track up to the saddle 

After the initial very steep climb followed by some tussock grass and spiky bushes the route followed an old Land Rover track which climbed steadily, with a few switchbacks, to the saddle.

Looking back

Looking forward 

Down then to meet the Bush Stream track 450 meters below.

Beautiful descent 

A tempting camp spot

A wet and muddy path took me up to the Royal Hut so called because it is rumoured that Prince Charles and Princess Anne were here when they were children.

Can you see the hut?

The hut was full when I got there but there was plenty of space to camp and I joined the other three tents outside.

The route I took went up Forest Creek, the river below the green patch of trees

It was a cold night.

Te Araroa 16-17/01/26

Days 117&118, Geraldine 

The weather was wet on Friday, not heavy rain but steady all day, hopefully not filling the rivers too much.

Wet cabin at Geraldine Holiday Park 

I wandered round the town finding where the cafés were and sampling some of their wares before going to the Geraldine Vintage Car & Machinery Club Museum where they have a great collection of old farm machinery and tractors as well as cars.

Old eastern European tractor designed to run on any fuel. Hot bulb starting

I spent a long time there looking at some fascinating exhibits including a Bristol 20 crawler that was built for small farmers or market gardens.

Very early Fordson

I had never heard of a Bristol tractor and asked the guy on the desk about it and it turned out that his father had one and he spent the next half hour telling me stories about what they, and it, got up to on the farm.

Perfect Riley 2.5

Bristol 20

They were originally made in Bristol but the company was bought and moved several times. Click for details

Collection of cars at the Holidays Park

A good curry rounded off the day.

Barker's 

Saturday was dry but grey as I wandered into the town for breakfast at a rather nice eatery which is also a shop for Barker's who make chutneys, sauces, jams, etc. rather like Baxters at home.

Inside the Record shop/cafe

Record Shop 

Down the road then to a vinyl record and coffee shop where I would have spent a lot of money if I hadn't been walking.

Lovely Rolls Royce in the main street 

Geraldine Museum 

A book exchange cupboard solved the problem with the book that I finished reading last night and a visit to the Geraldine Heritage Museum gave me information on the origins of the town. Starting with logging and clearance for farming then the development of flax production at exactly the right time, just before WW2, which made the area reasonably prosperous with the largest quantities needed in Europe for many purposes including covering aeroplanes.

Details of the flax Mill

Recreation of Morrison's shop

After a healthy lunch there were some bits of blue sky when I went to the Military Museum for a look around.

Wellingtonia in the Holiday Park with my cabin beside it

Military Indian 

There were some interesting exhibits but it wasn't as good as the last two places, probably because it was all American and British equipment that had been used in New Zealand, most of which I had seen before.

More modern

Interesting 6x6 articulated vehicle

The town was very busy as it was Saturday evening so I had to eat early in Monteith's restaurant but I did go for a beer in the local brewery first.

Bonnie Day brewery 

I had an interesting discussion with the manager about the small canning machine that has obviously changed the microbrewery business.

Canning system 

An excellent three course meal in the Village Inn with an Ardbeg Whisky, my favorite, to finish rounded off the rather cold day and hopefully prepared me for more hills and rivers over the next few days.