This is an image from the Trotternish peninsula on the Isle of Skye off the west coast of Scotland (this picture is from Wikipedia; other pictures following are from us). Pictured is a little road, actually the main road, that goes around the whole peninsula along the coastline. Above the road is a rocky formation called the Storr. Just in front of the Storr there is a tall rock that juts up and is called the Old Man of Storr. It's one of those rock formations that is fascinating to watch comfortably from your car as you approach it, drive underneath it, then turn with the road and see it from the other side as well. It's one of the iconic images for which the Isle of Skye is known.
When the husband and I went to Scotland almost five years ago and we drove to Skye, I was determined we should climb the path up to the Old Man of Storr. I was also 15 or 16 weeks pregnant and still on anti-nausea medication. Just three weeks before then, I wasn't even sure that I would physically make it through the airport to go on this trip. But, now that I was here on the Isle of Skye, I was determined to climb up to the Old Man of Storr come rain or come shine.
Scotland in September really is a come rain or come shine kind of month. Brisk and clear one moment, misty and mysterious the next, but most of the time just wet. The evening that we arrived in Skye, it was nice and sunny, but we still had to find a place to stay for the next two nights, so we did not have time to explore the island then. We did take a stroll through Portree at dusk, and were watched by the dark, sad eyes of a lone seal in the harbor. I had high hopes that the next day would have some good weather for us as well.
The next day welcomed us with clouds, but we had learned already that if one wants to see anything in Scotland, one has to go despite clouds. So we started driving. As we approached the Old Man of Storr along the very road pictured above, I was happy that it still wasn't raining and we pulled into the parking lot below the trail-head. From the trail, the Storr is not visible -- you have to reach the top of the trail before it or the Old Man become visible again. But with faith, we started our climb. I was wearing my brand new, never-been-washed maternity jeans and feeling very comfortable and confident. Although it was cloudy, the first half of the hike up was very enjoyable. The path meandered through a forest, at times incredibly dark and mysterious, but always with glimpses of light:
Right around the time we decided we must be getting near the top, it started to rain. In retrospect, I think we must have only been about two-thirds of the way, but we thought we were so close. We kept going, of course, and the forest started thinning out. Eventually, now very wet, we got to what we thought was the top. Except this was all we could see:
The mist had descended enough that we couldn't see the Old Man or the Storr. I stubbornly said, "Maybe if we keep going, we'll get close enough to see it." So we kept walking up, but it was getting steeper and muddier. Finally, we could just barely see the outline of the Old Man in the mist:
At this point, it was pouring rain and we knew we weren't going to see any better even if we were close enough to touch the rock. Because we were literally in the middle of a cloud. We decided to turn back. Except the path had been replaced by a slippery stream. Slish-slosh we went down the hill-side, hand-in-hand because I was afraid of slipping in the mud and tumbling the rest of the way. By the time we got to our car, our clothes and shoes were soaked. We drove straight back to our B&B.
In our bathroom, I peeled off my dripping jeans, only to discover they were dripping blue dye everywhere, so they went straight into the shower with me for a good wash. Then we hung everything to dry on the towel warmers and put our soggy shoes to dry in front of the space heater. As it was still pouring rain outside, we decided it was alright to lay down and take a nap after our morning's (mis)adventure.
In the warmth of the bed, I lay on my back in a peaceful stillness. Suddenly I felt something move inside me; gentle, unmistakable movements. I will always remember the day I was determined to climb up to the Old Man of Storr as the day I first felt my baby move thanks to a Scottish September rain.
