Darek Kay

Sabbatical #18: Great Ocean Road

2026-07-14T20:54:06+02:00

I enjoyed the busy city life in Melbourne for a few days, but soon the adventurer and nature seeker in me took over again. It so happens that one of the best road trips in the world is around the corner: The Great Ocean Road. It is also the world's largest war memorial, dedicated to soldiers killed during World War I. After a wonderful group trip in Rotorua, I was again looking to share the experience with other people. It didn't take long to gather our fellowship, which coincidentally consisted only of Germans.

We roughly followed the guide from Lauren. In a time of popularity-oriented LLMs and influencers sharing "must-do's" after spending one day in a foreign place, I highly appreciate the valuable knowledge of a local person.

In theory, one can do the Great Ocean Road in a single day, but I can't imagine that being a good experience. Instead, we decided to stay a night in Port Campbell. It was also nice to have another driver on board, so we could split the driving time.

Bell's Beach

The first highlight was Bells Beach, the home of the world's longest continuously running pro-surfing competition (since 1962). Despite the rain, we spotted multiple people surfing the waves.

Anglesea Golf Club

"There are no kangaroos in Austria…", but there are in Australia!

We spotted a couple of them along the way, but they quickly disappeared into the bush.

We decided to go to the Anglesea Golf Club, known for its wild kangaroos. You can buy an overpriced tour on the golf course, but there were lots of kangaroos outside as well. As responsible tourists, we kept our distance, but they seemed to be only mildly interested in us.

Aireys Inlet

Our next short stop was at Aireys Inlet and the famous (among Australians) Split Point Lighthouse.

Memorial Arch

Half an hour after the official beginning of the Great Ocean Road in Torquay, we reached the Memorial Arch. The traffic was low, so we took the opportunity to get the iconic photo.

Kennett River

After a short detour to Teddy's Lookout, we headed toward the next spot. Kennett River is a tiny village, mostly known for wild koalas living nearby. We followed the path through the forest, but actually spotting those furry bears turned out to be a challenge. However, with four pairs of eyes (and some exchanges with other tourists), we were able to see four or five different individuals high in the trees.

Keep your eyes open when driving, too. If you notice people standing next to the main road, there's probably some wildlife around.

Loch Ard Gorge

After checking into our hostel, we had enough time for a quick stop at Loch Ard Gorge.

Twelve Apostles

A few minutes away, right before sunset, we finally reached our main destination: the Twelve Apostles. It was by far the most crowded place, and I wouldn't like to see what it's like around noon with all the day visitors. However, there's a lot of space, so we mostly didn't have to fight for a viewpoint.

While the sunset and the view were great, it wasn't the life-changing experience it's claimed to be. It's a solid 8/10 spot, but nowhere near the hype it is given.

We followed the recommendation from the guide and revisited the Twelve Apostles the next morning. I'm so glad we did, as the vibe is different and it's way less crowded.

Stargazing

After a long and exciting day, we were all tired. Two of us had some motivation left, and we decided to once again see the Milky Way. We didn't have to drive long to reach a completely dark spot. The sky was slightly cloudy, but it was a great experience nonetheless.

London Bridge

The next morning, we started at the London Bridge. The formation was once connected to the mainland, but it collapsed in 1990.

Gibson Steps

The Gibson Steps Beach differs from the other spots, as you can climb down the steps to reach the beach, offering a different perspective.

We also did a quick and fun photo shoot!

Redwoods Otways

I still remember being impressed by the tall redwoods in Rotorua, so I was looking forward to visiting the Redwoods Otways. The place is also great for a picnic.

Waterfalls

Given the time, we decided to visit two out of the three recommended waterfalls.

The 45-minute walk to see the Triplet Falls is a nice way to escape the heat. While the waterfall itself is impressive, there's no good (official) spot to enjoy it unobstructed. Because of that, I found it underwhelming.

Our second choice was the Beauchamp Falls, mainly because it is possible to swim near the waterfall. It takes 1.5 km one way to reach the spot, and it's slightly more demanding. For the most part, we had the spot all to ourselves.

After reaching the waterfall, our expectations were literally chilled. Two of us didn't even try to get into the water, while another person tried but backed down quickly.

Following my Yes Man approach, I once again took up the challenge. After my caving adventure, the water was not as freezing as I had expected. Still, at only 10–15 °C, it officially counted as my first ice bath. Without a wetsuit, I quickly noticed all kinds of body reactions, but it got better over time. Finally, I swam all the way to the waterfall to round out this unique experience.

Me jumping into the water was enough to motivate my companion to follow through, and we both enjoyed the dopamine hit. After getting out of the water, I had to face my initial worry: getting warm again. My extra-light towel was enough to get me dry. I put my clothes on and rushed back to the car, using the heat from the physical activity. I'm not sure how healthy this was, but it worked pretty well 😅.

Fauna

Apart from kangaroos and koalas, I had two noteworthy bird encounters.

A laughing kookaburra

A red wattlebird

Sabbatical #17: Melbourne

2026-06-09T16:44:01+02:00

After five weeks in New Zealand, it was time for a change of scenery. Following my original plan and given the proximity, Australia was the obvious choice. However, I had to shorten my stay to reach Japan in time for the cherry blossoms. I decided to split the next two weeks between Melbourne and Sydney. I was also looking forward to finally slowing down and staying more than 1–2 nights in the same place (or so I thought 😅).

Just a few days before my arrival, Melbourne was named the "best city in the world". Can it live up to expectations?

My exploration started in the Queen Victoria Market, a local yet somewhat touristy place. It is the largest open-air market in the Southern Hemisphere.

I wanted to visit the Royal Exhibition Building, a UNESCO World Heritage building, but unfortunately, a private event was taking place.

Melbourne offers a lot of street art. Hosier Lane is a popular alley completely covered in graffiti.

The Block Arcade is a great place to admire Victorian and Art Deco architecture. There's also the oldest barbershop in the world (since 1805), according to the Guinness Book of Records.

My favorite place in Melbourne was ACMI (Australian Centre for the Moving Image). The main exhibition is free of charge, and it offers many insights into the history of moving images. The video game section reminded me that Hollow Knight, one of my favorite games, was made in Australia.

New Zealand has reignited my love for nature. While I did enjoy the vibrant streets of Melbourne, I took some quiet rest in the Royal Botanic Gardens.

The nearby Shrine of Remembrance is a war memorial. The Eternal Flame has been burning since the inauguration by Queen Elizabeth in 1954.

I also did a short trip to St Kilda, a hip suburb with a nice beach.

Point Ormond is a popular place for locals and tourists alike, especially during sunset.

At one point, I noticed an airplane drawing a message in the sky. After "♡K", I thought this would be a cool magic trick reveal ("was this your card?"). But the drawing kept going, leading to this expensive love token dedicated to a music genre.

I'm not sure about the Venn diagram for Pokémon TCG players and pho lovers, but the marketing team did a great job here.

Street photography

After being mostly in nature for the last few weeks, I was looking forward to getting back on the streets! I was definitely a little rusty at first, but over time I managed to get into my usual flow.

Fauna

In New Zealand, I started using the Merlin ID app to identify the birds I encounter. The best part: you can collect your findings in the app, which feels like real-life Pokémon! Here are some of my new additions.

The endemic crested pigeon is probably the most beautiful pigeon I've ever seen!

At the pier in St Kilda, there's a little blue penguin colony. They usually hunt during the day and come back in the evening, but that's when the pier is closed for guided tours. However, it's pretty impossible to get any tickets. I was lucky enough to see 2–3 penguins shortly before the closure, though.

The endemic rainbow lorikeet is the most commonly observed bird in Australia.

Here are some more encounters.

A magpie-lark

A dusky moorhen

Australian wood ducks

An unspecified insect

Sabbatical #16: Kaikōura

2026-06-03T11:31:24+02:00

“I will not say "Do not weep", for not all tears are an evil.”

― The Lord of the Rings

On my way to the last stop in New Zealand, I spent a good amount of time at the Ōhau Point Lookout, which is known for a nearby fur seal colony.

At one point, another photographer pointed out dolphins in the ocean. While they were quite far away, it was interesting to see their acrobatic talents in action.

My trip ended in Kaikōura, with a rocky beach right next to my hostel.

I also visited the Kaikōura Seal Colony. There is a (rather symbolic) barrier to prevent people from coming too close to the fur seals, but the animals don't care. Some relaxed next to the main pathway.

Giving up the kayak-and-hike tour was a hard yet correct decision. My body appreciated a little rest, and I've been recovering quickly. Passing on what I imagined to be the highlight of the South Island was even more difficult, and I decided to ~~YOLO~~ accept the potential health consequences. I felt well enough for the Dolphin Encounter, a tour where you get to snorkel with wild dolphins in the ocean.

Before the tour, we were warned about high waves, low visibility and no 100% guarantee of actually spotting dolphins. However, I wasn't going to bail at this point.

After putting on the gear and watching a short introduction video, it was time for a boat trip.

Our experienced spotters quickly found the first dolphins.

I had only snorkeled once before, and it was a struggle back then. With the high waves and being far from shore, I was slightly anxious about the upcoming adventure. It went better this time, even though I was still getting water in my mask.

Now it was up to the dolphins to decide if we were interesting enough. They were somewhat curious but didn't stay in the same spot for long. I had some close encounters, which was a fascinating experience!

After four or five dives, it was time to go back. However, after spotting some whales jumping out of the water, the trip turned into a small whale-watching excursion! I only wish I had brought my camera with me.

This marks the end of my five-week New Zealand trip 🥲. I could have spent more time in this beautiful, diverse country, but I also wanted to see other interesting places. Stay tuned!

Sabbatical #15: Tasman-Marlborough

2026-05-27T13:48:29+02:00

“But in the end it’s only a passing thing, this shadow; even darkness must pass.”

― The Lord of the Rings

There aren't many interesting stops on the 4-hour drive from Westport to the Abel Tasman National Park (apart from the overall high New Zealand baseline). However, the T-Rex Tree is a low-key spot I had to check out. Just imagine the Jurassic Park music and a big roar, which I won't share here for copyright reasons.

Roaaaaaaaar!

The Buller Gorge is an actual touristic spot along the way. Apart from New Zealand's longest swing bridge, you can take a 40-minute jet boat ride through the gorge. I must admit I underestimated how fast and fun the ride would be! It feels more like a roller coaster than a boat trip.

Marahau is a small village and a popular gateway into the Abel Tasman National Park. My plan was to do a 3-hour kayak tour along the coastline, followed by 2–3 hours of hiking back. So far, my body was keeping up with my fast-paced way of travel. I've had a good run, but it was inevitable that I'd catch a cold at one point. I could probably have made it through the activity, but I didn't want the cold to linger. Instead, I only did a short walk to the nearby beach. At least I had a nice stay in what I would describe as a mix of a hostel and a camp site. There were only a couple of guests plus a friendly host, which made for a nice, small round in the evening, going beyond the usual hostel smalltalk.

Variable oystercatchers

A South Island oystercatcher

A bar-tailed godwit

The next two days, I mostly rested, but I did visit a few spots along the way.

It's usually only a few minutes from Marahau to the famous Split Apple Rock, but the road has been closed for some time due to a landslide. I didn't think the long detour was worth it, especially under the circumstances. I did go to Kaiteriteri, which has a small sand beach.

After staying a night in Nelson, I continued my island loop through the Marlborough District.

The Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve is a good place for a stop, with some interesting views.

From the Cullen Point / Mahaki Paoa Lookout, you can see the Pelorus Sound and the nearby town of Havelock.

Once again, I was glad I had rented a car. Even with a cold, I was able to see more of New Zealand's beautiful nature without stressing my body too much.

Sabbatical #14: West Coast

2026-05-22T08:57:23+02:00

“‘What do you fear, lady?’ he asked. ‘A cage’ she said. ‘To stay behind bars, until use and old age accept them, and all chance of doing great deeds is gone beyond recall or desire.’”

― The Lord of the Rings

The West Coast (Te Tai Poutini) is the most sparsely populated region of New Zealand, with a population of only 33 000 people. At the same time, it is the second-biggest region of the South Island. Yet it can get rather busy, with thousands of tourists taking the Haast Highway to visit various spots.

This will be a longer post, as I have visited many noteworthy places in just four days.

There are two main ways to enter the West Coast from the south: via Haast Pass or via Arthur's Pass. The first option was more convenient for my route, but it meant driving almost 300 km from Wānaka to Franz Josef. Due to the windy road, road works and many, many camper vans, it took me 6.5 hours (with a few breaks). I used that time to finally finish The Witcher audiobooks. I liked the saga, but the ending felt rushed, with plot-induced character derailment 🤔. At least I could now start listening to The Lord of the Rings audiobooks!

I have selected a few points of interest along the route. The first stop was a short hike to the Blue Pools. While the name once again shows a lack of creativity, it fits the visual appearance of the Blue River perfectly.

I've started hitting waterfall fatigue, but I visited two more. The Fantail Falls was rather quiet, with only a few people.

On the other hand, the Thunder Creek Falls was busy, with multiple tourist buses parked at the side of the road.

Once you clear an endless road lined with pine trees, you reach the actual coast of the West Coast. The Bruce Bay is a perfect opportunity for a break, with a small ice cream shop just next to the Māori Beach.

Due to my plans, I decided to stay in Franz Josef (Waiau). Only around 440 people live in this village, but up to 2000 tourists per day stay overnight.

I could finally see some keas, which freely roam the town. One of them approached me at arm's length.

Here's a short story with a happy ending.

My initial plan was to do ice climbing on the Franz Josef Glacier, which would have been a real highlight. Unfortunately, the tour had to be canceled due to low clouds. As a plan B, I booked a heli-hiking tour on the Fox Glacier, which — due to its lower altitude — allowed helicopters to land. I had some time to kill, so I headed over to Fox Glacier town and the Fox Glacier Viewpoint (Te Kopikopiko O Te Waka). I forgot my insect repellent, so I offered an all-you-can-eat buffet to the local sandflies.

I also did the short Minnehaha Walk.

The Fox Glacier heli-hike tour is well organized. After an instructional video, you put on some warm clothes and then a short helicopter flight follows.

After landing, you need to put on crampons to be able to walk on the ice. The groups are then split among the available spots, so you're not cramped together. We visited multiple sections, and we were able to drink some fresh glacier water, too. Overall, it was an amazing and memorable experience.

On my way to the next destination, I decided to have a small detour to Ōkārito. I booked a 2-hour kayaking tour, but we didn't reach the minimum number of people. Instead, I was upgraded to a 3-hour tour later that day.

The kayaking tour leads through the Ōkārito Lagoon and offers a good mix of kayaking and information about the local fauna and flora.

We spotted countless birds along the way.

A great white heron

A white-faced heron

A bar-tailed godwit

A pied stilt looking for some food in shallow waters

I also did the short Pakihi walk, where I encountered the endemic South Island robin. This one was rather confiding and curious about my pie. After taking a few close pictures, I thanked him with a tiny piece of my pastry.

Hokitika, a former gold-mining town, is a popular tourist stop on the West Coast route. I was running short on time, but I did visit the lovely beach.

Greymouth is the biggest town in the West Coast region, with a population of only around 8 600 people.

As usual in New Zealand, the State Highway 6 offers many lookouts along the way. The one I liked the most was near the Strongman Mine Memorial. From here, you have a great view at some rock formations.

Below the lookout, some surfers are trying to catch a good wave.

I've also spotted a New Zealand bellbird nearby.

Just a few kilometers away, you can enjoy the Motukiekie Beach.

I couldn't stay too long, as I was heading to my next destination: the Pancake Rocks.

After my disappointment with the Moeraki Boulders, I kept my expectations low. However, this place is rightfully on every must-see list. It is quite touristy, but the area is relatively big, with multiple viewpoints, so it doesn't feel too crowded.

The main attraction are the Pancake Rocks themselves: a limestone formation with its distinct appearance.

Even more interesting are the blowholes, ejecting compressed air and water upwards.

At this point, most visitors get back to their cars and move to the next pin on their map. However, just a few minutes away, there is the freely accessible Punakaiki cavern. During my 15 minutes or so inside, I didn't encounter any other person. A head torch is recommended, but a phone light will probably be enough.

My next stop was Cape Foulwind.

You can walk along the coast to a lighthouse.

However, the main attraction is the nearby fur seal colony.

By spotting a Weka (Māori hen), I've checked off one more item from my "classic New Zealand birds" list.

My final stop was in Westport, the second-biggest town in the West Coast region. It has some charm, but it's not that interesting.

Sabbatical #13: Wānaka

2026-05-18T09:43:02+02:00

“Well, I’ve made up my mind, anyway. I want to see mountains again, Gandalf.”

― The Lord of the Rings

Wānaka is a smaller, less commercialized resort town compared to Queenstown, with a population of around 13 000, but it's as exciting.

On my way to Wānaka, I made a quick stop at the Crown Range Lookout, which offers an amazing view over the Queenstown area — especially during the golden hour.

Once reaching a cozy hostel in Wānaka, I was greeted by a fitting name tag that has been selected for me.

The main "hub" of the town is scattered around Lake Wānaka, where you chill or do some water-based activities.

Probably the most popular spot in Wānaka is That Wānaka Tree, a willow tree surrounded by water from the lake. Yes, that's the official name coming from the #ThatWanakaTree social media hashtag. During the day, the place is too crowded to take a good photo of "New Zealand's most famous tree", but after the sun goes down, you have this place all to yourself. Put your camera on a tripod, hope for a clear sky, and you can get some magical shots.

Lord of the Rungs

The activity I was looking for the most was Lord of the Rungs by Wildwire, a via ferrata next to a waterfall. With 450 meters, it is the highest waterfall via ferrata in the world. You can choose from three levels, differing in length and price. It's a single track with early exits, so level 3 continues after completing the first two levels. I was concerned about the difficulty of level 3, but I went all-in.

Surprisingly, hanging on the side of a cliff and looking down didn't scare me as much as I thought. Quite the contrary: it enforced my wish to transition from bouldering to rock climbing in the future. I've once had a fear of heights, but over the years, I seem to have mostly cured it. Now I enjoy the thrill.

During the tour, we've crossed seven suspension bridges. On some, we've suspended ourselves by the rope and let go for the extra thrill.

The first two levels are fun, but I didn't find them physically challenging. The third level is what makes this activity one of my highlights in New Zealand. It included steeper sections and one overhang. With my bouldering experience, the track was fun but rather cozy. Others were visibly struggling, but still managed to complete the climb. At one point, we walked behind a 60m waterfall — a truly memorable experience.

Once we've reached the top, a helicopter picked us up. It wasn't my first time flying in a helicopter, but I've never been on board during landing 😄. The descent was quick but exciting. In total, it took us around five hours to complete the via ferrata (including the preparations).

Roys Peak

Wānaka is also a great base for hikers. One destination that has been mentioned over and over was Roys Peak, along with its less famous sibling Isthmus Peak. I wanted to see the mountains again and decided to go with the more popular option. Both hiking tracks are described as somewhat demanding, but after the Tongariro Crossing, I was up for the challenge.

Many backpackers went for the sunrise, but this meant waking up around 3:30 am. Due to my planned night activity (see next section), I wasn't willing to do that. However, I did like the idea of starting a hike before the sunrise, and I also had to justify buying a head torch in Queenstown 😄. I decided to start around 6 am. What seemed like a lose-lose scenario (waking up early but not seeing the sunrise at the peak) was actually a great decision. I still experienced the sunrise during the hike, which was maybe even more beautiful. More importantly, the otherwise crowded peak was mostly empty: the early birds were hiking down, while regular hikers haven't arrived yet.

I was aware of the demanding hike, but the first challenges came before even reaching the starting point. First, I was greeted with a frozen windshield. With no ice scraper in the car, I had to improvise one with a credit card, which worked pretty well. Another problem was finding a parking spot. I arrived at 6:30 am, and the official parking lot was already full, even at the end of peak season (pun intended). I found a somewhat sketchy spot and was once again glad I rented a compact SUV car. Later I discovered a paid parking lot that I could have used.

The hike is straightforward yet steep. I only needed my head torch for the first half an hour. After an hour, I could enjoy the sunrise with a beautiful view. A few curious sheep completed the scenery.

After 2 hours and 20 minutes, I've reached the famous lookout. I already briefly mentioned Instagram factories, and this is a huge one. You can observe one person after another walking or running to the end of a short path. I didn't intend to take the famous shot, but as mentioned, the spot was almost empty (compared to midday). We were maybe 10–15 people in total.

I took my telephoto lens with me just in case, and I was glad I did. I offered a group of people an offer they couldn't reject. After taking turns, each of us got a "unique" photo (as unique as taking the same photo hundreds of times a day can be). Luckily, a cloud has formed out of nothing right behind the spot, adding a little bit of mystery. While I did make a few poses, the best part was the actual view. It's a little bit cliché, but this spot feels like standing at the top of the world.

Now, when people talk about Roys Peak, they often think about the Instagram spot. In fact, from all the people I've met and talked to, only one person reached the actual top. I obviously had to do it. After all, it's called Roys Peak and not Roys Instagram Lookout 🤷 It took me another 30 minutes to reach the top, and it was definitely worth it. I think this section offers equally great (and unique) photo opportunities.

On my way down, I saw a few paragliders launching from the mountain.

It took me 2 hours and 10 minutes to walk straight from the top to my car. I've met lots of hikers going in the opposite direction again, especially from France.

💡 I was curious about the missing apostrophe in names like "Roys Peak". It's probably following the U.S. Board on Geographic Names policy dating back to 1890 to discourage the use of possessive forms and apostrophes.

Total lunar eclipse

This year's total lunar eclipse was mainly visible in New Zealand and Australia. Even after my long hike, I was definitely not missing that, especially as the sky was almost clear. I was fortunate to experience this spectacle in real time.

Once the earth shadow fully covers the moon, we get what is called the Blood Moon, due to its red color.

This is not to be confused with the honey moon in June, which has only a slight yellow/red tint.

Sabbatical #12: Milford Sound

2026-04-28T10:39:27+02:00

“The Road goes ever on and on, down from the door where it began. Now far ahead the Road has gone, and I must follow, if I can.”

― The Lord of the Rings

Milford Sound is not only the most famous tourist spot in New Zealand, but also one of the world's top travel destinations, attracting up to 1 million visitors per year. It's often referred to as the 8th World Wonder. With such a reputation, my expectations were high.

Despite its name, Milford Sound is actually a fjord rather than a sound. The difference is that a fjord is an underwater valley carved by glaciers, while a sound is usually formed by the flooding of a river valley. The name was given due to an incorrect assumption from James Cook.

There is only a single, 116 km long road from Te Anau to Milford Sound. Most people visit from Queenstown, which adds another 175 km. You can either drive the 582 km (round trip) yourself or take one of the many bus tours. A more adventurous (and expensive) option is to take a small aircraft. My friend and I chose convenience over flexibility and booked a bus trip with Real NZ.

One advantage of using a tour operator is that the bus driver will share many interesting facts along the way. Also, our driver had the cutest highland cow plushie: Doogle!

The first stop was in Te Anau, a gateway into the Milford Sound road.

We've made a few more stops along the way, with increasingly spectacular landscapes.

Solitude — #LifeIsGood #Wanderlust #AloneWithTheNature #Sarcasm

I don't like the romanticization of popular spots, where people try to convey the feeling of having the place all to themselves. I do understand the appeal of taking such photos, and with my approach to minimalism street photography, I unfortunately do my share. However, I also want to be honest about how those Instagram factories actually look like. I will post my ~~rant~~ opinions on "photo tourism" one day, but until then, here's a small preview.

Here are two more spots that stood out to me.

Mirror Lakes

The first thing you see when you arrive at the Sound isn't the pier. It's a swarm of thousands of sandflies. As James Cook wrote:

“The most mischievous animal here is the small black sandfly which are exceeding numerous … wherever they light they cause a swelling and such intolerable itching that it is not possible to refrain from scratching and at last ends in ulcers like the small pox.”

As soon as the boat trip starts, the sandflies disappear, though.

Here are some impressions of the ~90-minute cruise around the fjord. I'm not a landscape photographer, but even the best photos can't capture such enormous scenes adequately.

Was the 13-hour trip worth it and did Milford Sound meet my (high) expectations?

I don't enjoy overtourism and places crowded so much that you can barely move. As I continue my travel, I've started to avoid the "must-see" places, or at least I try to take alternative paths. Yes, they are "must-see" for a reason, but the tourist swarms spoil the experience to a point where it's usually not worth it.

Unsurprisingly, the usual Milford Sound tour is a huge tourist factory. Every spot along the way is filled with people, culminating in a packed boat cruise. One reason is the long drive, which leads to a peak during midday.

My friend described our trip as touristy and overrated, which given the enormous praise, I agree. Don't get me wrong, Milford Sound an incredible place. However, I think we would have enjoyed it way more if we went off the beaten path. We should have done some hiking or visit the way less touristy Doubtful Sound instead, but as often, the time didn't allow it (or in other words, I didn't plan it properly).

Sabbatical #11: Queenstown

2026-04-23T16:05:27+02:00

“Memory is not what the heart desires. That is only a mirror.”

― The Lord of the Rings

Queenstown is a small town with a population of under 30 000. However, with hundreds of thousands of people visiting this town each year, it's one of the biggest tourist hotspots in New Zealand. There are two main reasons: it's an entry point to the Milford Sound, and there are all sorts of thrilling and relaxing activities you can imagine. I only managed to visit the town for around two days due to schedule conflicts, but that was actually enough.

Lake Wakatipu is New Zealand's longest lake (80 km). There's a small beach in Queenstown that people use to chill.

TSS Earnslaw is a steam ship built in 1912 and a popular attraction in Queenstown.

Skyline Queenstown

The Skyline Queenstown includes a set of attractions and activities. First, there is the Skyline Gondola that brings you up near Bob's Peak.

From there, you've got a great view over the town and the surrounding region. There's also a company offering tandem paragliding.

At the hill station, you can admire Lord of the Beans: an artwork made of 20 000 Jelly Beans. It took over 100 hours to build.

The Skyline Luge feels like a real-life Mario Kart, and the speed should not be underestimated. However, when I arrived, the lift back to the start of the track had a malfunction. People got stuck and had to be evacuated. I was the last person who was able to ride, before the operation has been stopped.

I've had a short walk/hike around the Skyline Loop Track. I would have loved to try the full-day Ben Lomond Track, but my planning didn't allow it.

Arrowtown

Arrowtown is a historic gold mining town, only 20 minutes away from Queenstown. There are many preserved buildings from the 1860s, including a Chinese settlement.

Lord of the Rings movie location tour

On my visit to Hobbiton, I learned about a Lord of the Rings movie set tour in Queenstown. In fact, there are two providers: Trails of Middle Earth and Pure Glenorchy. Both companies cover different places in a half-day tour each. They also cooperate, so you can book both for a full-day experience. That's what I decided to do.

During the tour itself, we've learned so much trivia about the movie-making process. I don't remember half of them half as well as I should like, though 👀

I will only cover some of the spots we've visited. The first one is the Skippers Road Lookout, from where you have a great view at The Remarkables. They are one of only two mountain ranges in the world that run exactly from north to south (the other one being the Rocky Mountains). But what's more remarkable is that they are used everywhere throughout the movies, so much so that they were called The Reusables internally.

The following spot appears unremarkable, but some of us identified it immediately. This is where the Battle of Ithilien has been filmed and where we can see the Oliphaunts for the first time.

The Anduin river from the first movie is actually the Kawarau river. It's near the place where the first commercial bungee site has been established — and it still operates today, as we could see from a distance.

My highlight was the area around Glenorchy. I didn't have this region on my radar, so I was glad to have visited it as part of the tour.

Pure Glenorchy has an exclusive right to enter a private farm with a great view at the place used for Isengard. I was even lucky enough to film a flock of ducks flying over this area, which felt like Saruman's spies are still active.

As a cherry on top, both companies own a large selection of replica props, making it a great opportunity for some nerdy photos.

Food

This is the first time since Doha that I include a "food" section. There aren't many specialities that New Zealand is known for. Apart from Kina, the only thing I have tried so far were savory pies. Originally filled with meat, you can now get them with all kinds of fillings.

I've also tried kiwi berries, which — unsurprisingly — actually tasted like kiwi.

After a friend mentioned that the feijoa tastes like soap, I somewhat agree.

Both fruits aren't native to New Zealand, though.

In Queenstown specifically, there are two places that I've heard about before. First, there is the famous Fergburger. Especially during lunch, the queue gets extremely long. They even had to restructure the sidewalk, as pedestrians couldn't use it. The burger was indeed good, but I wouldn't wait for an hour (or longer) to get it.

Then, there is Patagonia, known for their chocolate and ice cream. I did try "the best ice cream in the world" in Italy before, and I feel like Patagonia should participate next time. Italians probably won't award a company outside of Italy, though.

The nice thing is that both stores have a branch in Arrowtown, with almost no queues at all.

Sabbatical #10: Mackenzie Basin

2026-04-10T13:14:50+02:00

“Gandalf, my old friend, this will be a night to remember.”

― The Lord of the Rings

The next three days of my journey, I've spent in and around Twizel. This region is called the Mackenzie Basin, which includes a few popular tourist spots. It's also where my friends from Germany now live, and I was excited to see them again after a long time!

On my way to Twizel, I've made a few stops.

First, I've checked out the Moeraki Boulders. Fortunately, it was only a short detour, as I found them underwhelming.

I still took some time for another round of long-exposure self-portraits.

The beach is nice, though, especially for the south island.

Much more interesting were the Elephant Rocks. It's a private farm, so you might encounter some sheep. This makes the area a huge "minefield".

Twizel

Twizel itself doesn't have much to offer for tourists, but it's a great base to explore the Mackenzie Basin.

One evening, I went to the nearby Lake Ruataniwha for a sunset.

Lake Tekapo

Lake Tekapo is the name for both the second-largest lake in the Mackenzie Basin and a town right next to it. It is a popular spot among tourists.

While having lunch, a single duck approached me. I couldn't resist and shared some crumbles from my tasty pie as a thank you for some wonderful photos.

I did a short but steep hike to the Mt John summit. I had an appointment and the time was running short, but I managed to complete the hike in under half of the estimated time. At the summit, I only took a few photos and tried boysenberry ice cream.

Lake Pukaki

Lake Pukaki is 20 minutes away from Lake Tekapo. It is not as popular — probably because there is no comparable town next to it — but I liked it way more. It offers a great view at Aoraki (Mount Cook).

Southern Alps

Aoraki (Mount Cook) is the highest mountain in New Zealand, which makes it an obvious tourist magnet. It is part of the Southern Alps mountain range, and I think the name is fitting. In my opinion, this area provides the best views of the entire south island (yes, Milford Sound included, but more on that later), although not coming close to the Tongariro National Park.

The 23 km Tasman glacier is the longest in New Zealand. Like all glaciers in the world, it is rapidly retreating, which created the Tasman Lake and the Tasman River.

Interestingly, I've had this spot mostly to myself.

Another path leads to the Blue Lakes. Not sure, where the name comes from, but definitely not from the color. Given how "creative" New Zealand is with their English names, the more fitting "Emerald Lakes" and "Green Lake" were already taken.

I've had a quick stop at Mount Cook Village. I didn't research the place too much, assuming it is a tourist spot filled with restaurants. This wasn't the case, and I later had my lunch at Glantanner instead.

I also couldn't find a single parking spot in the village. I even gave a bus driver a short lift, as he had to park his bus a few kilometers outside the village. In the end, I did find a spot that would have been probably fined if I stayed too long, but it was good enough to grab a few pictures and move on.

I wish I did the Mueller Hut hike, but the time didn't allow it.

Experiences

The Aoraki Mackenzie Dark Sky Reserve is the biggest Dark Sky Reserve in the Southern Hemisphere. When the forecast announced a clear sky, I had to experience this.

I had to wait a long time after sundown for the last rays of light to disappear, but it was well worth it. Seeing so many stars and the Milky Way with my own eyes was one of the highlights of my entire New Zealand trip. It was also my first attempt at capturing a night sky, which given my setup and the missing experience, was way better than expected.

My friend is into disc golf, and there are courses everywhere in New Zealand. I remember having played disc golf a few times in my hometown, then buying some discs, only to see the golf course being closed a few months later. It was nice to play a few rounds again.

He also used his connections to schedule a free skydive (which would have been a nice throwback) and a scenic flight around the Southern Alps. Unfortunately, both activities were canceled due to high wind. I guess I ran out of my Karma points after a few weeks of perfect weather. At least I could visit the air traffic control tower at Mount Cook Airport.

Initially, I had planned one more day in Twizel. But guess who included February 29 in 2026 in their planning? 🤦

Sabbatical #09: Dunedin

2026-04-07T09:25:14+02:00

“All we have to decide is what to do with the time that is given us.”

― The Lord of the Rings

Dunedin is a former Scottish settlement, which becomes apparent after a quick walk through the city. The name is an anglicization of the Gaelic name for Edinburgh. It is counterintuitively pronounced /dɐˈniːdɘn/ (duh-nee-din).

I arrived on a Saturday during the Chinese New Year Festival, so the city was full. In fact, there was not a single accommodation available in the entire city, as a person I drove with had to find out the hard way.

The first thing I noticed is how hilly the city is. Driving here was an interesting experience.

I should have seen that coming, knowing about the Baldwin Street in Dunedin: the steepest street in the world. The slope is 35%, which means the ground rises 1m for every 2.86m you cover horizontally. It's famous enough to have tourist buses stop here.

I also liked the botanical garden, as it was a mix of a park and a forest.

Otago Peninsula

Next to Dunedin, there is the Otago Peninsula, a nature and wildlife paradise. The main road mostly follows the coastline. While it is scenic, it also contains countless curves, but I got used to that by now.

I like to check Google Maps for points of interest along the route I take, which helps me find less known spots like the Pineapple Rock.

My main destination was OPERA: The Otago Peninsula Eco Restoration Alliance. It is a private eco-reserve dedicated to conservation, rehabilitation, restoration and education. The former working farm is being transitioned back to a native forest, offering a safe habitat to many species. I booked the Canopy to Coast Tour, which is an educational hike through the reserve.

The yellow-eyed penguin (hoiho) is one of the rarest penguins in the world and is classified as endangered. In the past two decades, its population decreased by 75%. Saving those birds is one of the main goals of OPERA.

The smallest penguin species, the little blue penguin (kororā), is also living in the reserve. We've spotted a few in their small shelters.

The reserve is also a great place for other birds. While still sitting in my car, I've already spotted the first one, a tūī. Similar to parrots, they can replicate human speech, but also other sounds, like glass shattering.

The endemic New Zealand fantail (pīwakawaka) became one of my favorite birds. They like to follow people during a hike, as our steps might reveal bugs below the earth. In Māori mythology, the fantail was responsible for the presence of death in the world. To this day, the bird is considered either a good or bad omen, depending on the region.

The swamp harrier (kāhu) is one of only three birds of prey in New Zealand.

Around the beach, there were many sea lions and fur seals. Fur seals are more closely related to sea lions than seals, making the distinction between those two species tricky.

We've also learned much about the regional flora. The endemic tree nettle (ongaonga) is one of the most poisonous plants in New Zealand. The sting reactions can last for weeks and the reaction can be fatal. As it's a native species, OPERA doesn't remove those plants.

Driving in New Zealand: Part II

For the south island, I have booked the same small economy car model, as I got used to it. After talking about my plans with the lady from the rental company, she highly suggested to get a compact SUV instead for just a few more dollars. I haven't driven a car of that size before, but I've been warned about the curvy, hilly and narrow roads on the south island. I didn't have the feeling that she was trying to squeeze more money out of me (she argued against a proper SUV). But I also remembered my friend telling me a similar story, so I decided to do it. Spoiler alert: it was a great decision.

Do you remember how proud I was to not have confused the windshield wipers and turn signals in New Zealand? Well, that's because my Suzuki Swift didn't have them switched as I had assumed 🤦 This time, the controls were actually inversed. It only took me until the parking exit to notice that 😆 The mistake happened three or four times after that, so it was still fine.

Sabbatical #08: Christchurch

2026-03-30T11:25:08+02:00

“It is no bad thing to celebrate a simple life.”

― The Lord of the Rings

Now that I've explored the north island of New Zealand, it was time to head over to what many describe as "the better island". Initially, I had planned to stay in Christchurch for two nights, take a bus to Twizel, and borrow a small camper van from a friend. As these things go, the car engine broke a week before my arrival. Even though the peak season was coming to an end, the accommodation and rental car situation was still challenging. I managed to book one of the few available cars — for a small fortune — but I had to wait for three more nights to pick it up. I have rushed through the last two and a half weeks, so I wasn't too sad about the forced rest time.

Exploration

Christchurch isn't that exciting, but it has its own charm.

The city tram is an interesting way to do some sightseeing, but to be fair, the stops are all within a walkable distance. For longer distances, you can use Lime or — better and cheaper — Flamingo scooters.

The New Regent Street is a short pedestrian street with 40 cafés, restaurants and shops. Its Spanish Mission architectural style makes it a popular tourist destination.

The botanical garden is a great place to enjoy some nature on a sunny day. A rosarium includes countless rose species.

The Canterbury Earthquake National Memorial is a memorial for those killed in the fatal Christchurch earthquake in 2011.

The Riverside Market is a popular food market amongst tourists. I visited it a few times and all the food was great.

As other places in New Zealand, Christchurch is also full of graffiti art.

Here are some more shots I got during my time in Christchurch.

International Antarctic Centre

Christchurch is one of only five Antarctic gateway cities in the world (next to Chile, Argentina, South Africa and Australia). It makes sense that there is an International Antarctic Centre and a corresponding exhibition to learn more about that continent.

The Hägglunds field trip is a major attraction. Hägglunds is the company that built Bandvagn 206: an all-terrain carrier, initially built for the Swedish Army and later used to navigate through Antarctica. A 15-minute ride simulates all the challenges the vehicle faces on the rough terrain.

The Storm Experience simulates the weather conditions in Antarctica. The room is usually -8 °C cold, but every few minutes, a storm cools the room to chilly -18 °C.

The Little Blue Penguin (Kororā) is New Zealand’s smallest penguin. The Penguin Rescue holds up to 26 of those cute animals.

Experiences

It's possible to rent a kayak on the Avon river, which winds through the botanical garden. It was rather chilled, but a good preparation for a longer kayak trip that I've planned.

Over three weeks after my last session, I finally got back into a bouldering gym!

I've had some shoulder pains for the last few weeks, so I decided to get a Thai massage for the first time in my life. Unfortunately, it didn't solve the issues, but it was good nonetheless.

Fauna

The paradise shelducks are endemic and common across New Zealand. They are highly monogamic, and I almost always encountered them as a pair. A guide mentioned that once a paradise duck dies, their partner might follow soon after. It's poetic and sad at the same time.

The California quail is an introduced species. I encountered a family in the botanical garden.

Sabbatical #07: Waitomo

2026-03-12T07:06:42+01:00

“I know we are going to take a very long road, into darkness; but I know I can't turn back.”

― The Lord of the Rings

Black Abyss

Waitomo is mostly known for their glowworm caves. Most people book a short boat ride to view the countless New Zealand glowworms (Arachnocampa luminosa). I probably wouldn't include this activity in my trip if there wasn't a much more adventurous alternative: the Black Abyss, a caving tour.

After putting on a wetsuit, you start with a 35 m abseil into a pitch dark cave. While you're waiting for the others, you can already admire the first glowworms.

Next, you do a short zipline inside the cave, with more glowworms above you.

After a short break with hot chocolate and a cookie, you jump with a big tube into the dark, refreshing water.

What follows is a short light painting photo session.

For the next hour or so, you are swimming and/or floating on your tube through the big cave. Despite the wetsuit and the hot chocolate, it was freezing cold, getting worse over time. My teeth were chattering, slightly distracting from the otherwise awesome experience.

Once you reach a dead end, you form a "tube train" with your group, and the guide slowly pulls you all back to the starting point. You can now once again enjoy thousands of glowworms in what feels like a star-spangled sky. You also learn a few interesting facts about those creatures. Glowworms are not related to fireflies in any way. It's mostly the larvae that exhibit the largest bioluminescence. They use this technique to attract prey, and the hungriest individuals will glow the strongest.

There's also a small waterfall, which makes for another great photo opportunity.

After you give back your tube, you'll continue the caving tour by foot, following more narrow passages.

Finally, you are given a decision to leave the cave the easy way, or climb your way out on cascading underground waterfalls. I probably don't have to mention, which option I've chosen 🧗

I expected this to be the highlight of the north island, and I wasn't disappointed! While I've had many "first time" experiences in New Zealand, this tour combined a couple of those in a 4–5 hour time span.

Omaru Falls

On my way to Waitomo, I did a short walk to the Omaru Falls.

I can imagine the waterfall looking nice during sunshine, but after rain it's just a brown soup falling down. With long exposure, it still looks interesting, though.

Fauna

There are no (new) birds this time, but I've made some other encounters.

Another cicada

A single goat chilling at a river.

A captivated T-Rex in Te Kuiti