Understanding Indonesia
This essay is by Daniel Ziv, who has worked in Indonesia for 14 years as a journalist, editor, and now filmmaker. He wrote the bestselling book “Jakarta Inside Out” and directed the award-winning documentary film JALANAN, about the lives of three Jakarta street musicians. This is the first chapter of my new Indonesia 2014 book.
Indonesia is the world’s 4th biggest country by population, but is still a work in progress — a beta version.
Indonesia 1.0 began in 1945, when they gained independence from the Dutch and became a country. Suddenly, 17,000 islands, 300 ethnic groups and 700 languages needed to be held together under one flag and one language. These indigenous cultures were officially co-opted as caricatures rather than being allowed to grow organically. The new official language was imposed very effectively at the expense of preserving local dialects.
Indonesia 2.0 began in 1998, with the toppling of Suharto, the country’s dictator of 32 years. This new era of reform and democratization has seen impressive stability and progress.
So let’s talk about the best part of Indonesia — its people: warm, open-minded, easygoing and always lots of fun.
Flexibility:
Indonesians are acrobats. They’ve learned the hard way not to trust the system, but also to rarely challenge it. So they find resourceful ways of solving problems, relying on each other and adopting an optimistic, can-do attitude in any circumstance. Flexibility, elasticity and teamwork are key in nearly every walk of life, and Indonesians prize the following traits:
Non-confrontation: Indonesians put a premium on getting along and not making each other lose face. Confrontation is truly a last resort. Indonesians love group consensus as a solution to any debate. The outcome is not as important as the fact that the decision was arrived at inclusively.
Patience: A favorite Indonesian phrase is “jam karet”, which literally means “rubber time”, suggesting that time is a flexible, unpredictable commodity. It’s common for Indonesians to arrive an hour late to a meeting, and just as common for their colleagues to accept this as routine.
Rule-bending: If time is rubber, so are rules, which are meant to be delightfully broken. Fees are waived, timetables sped up, and restrictions ignored, all for the right payment, family member, or childhood buddy.
Self-reliance: In a society where very few people have health insurance, social security, or even life savings, mutual help is very common. If someone is very ill, the entire family and even neighbors pitch in to cover costs. If an uncle can’t afford his own motorbike, his son-in-law and two school friends will cover the down payment. If the government won’t fix an awful road, local residents mobilize their own resources to get the job done.
Corruption:
Indonesians are fundamentally good, honest people born into a system that is utterly corrupt. So deeply rooted is the graft that just to get things done, one must either be corrupt or play along with corruption.
Corruption is therefore a double-edged sword: it’s totally unjust and results in exorbitant costs, but it also allows people to get things done easily and quickly.
Indonesians resent paying huge bribes just to start up a small, legitimate business, yet love paying $25 to obtain an instant drivers license instead of the official $10 with its days of bureaucracy and road tests.
Some cynically view low-level corruption as a tax system in a non-tax-paying society. Since the government cannot afford to pay police or teachers a livable wage, traffic cops demand petty bribes from drivers wanting to avoid hefty official fines, while teachers will accept payment to give students passing grades.
Pleasure:
If you thought this is a conservative nation of Muslim puritans, think again. Indonesia is a surprisingly hedonistic society that could teach America a thing or two about the “pursuit of happiness” and pleasure.
Indonesians sometimes have it rough — with poverty, poor health, traffic jams, and pollution — but they constantly and unapologetically compensate themselves for these hardships. In Western countries, salons and spas are for the affluent, while in Indonesia even slum dwellers set aside the time (and as little as 50 cents) for a cream bath scalp massage or foot reflexology at a local spa shack. Infidelity, drugs and prostitution are rampant across all social classes in Indonesia. Why? Because people enjoy it, and deny themselves very little.
Religion:
See all the young women wearing headscarves on the streets? Muslim extremists? Not even close. In fact many probably work as office girls for multinational companies and might even join colleagues at a karaoke lounge at night. Indonesia is a constant interplay between surface and substance, and nowhere is this more apparent than in the confusing, paradoxical attitude toward religion. The country is a cradle of “nominal Islam” – around 85% identify themselves as Muslims, yet very few are religious in the orthodox sense.
The government dictates that every citizen must belong to one of the country’s six official religions, and this gets listed on every Indonesian’s ID card. But for most Indonesians, religion is more of an identity label, security blanket or family tradition than a matter of orthodox belief or practice.
These official religious labels mask over society’s far deeper influences: pre-Islamic animist and Hindu roots, folk superstitions, and possibly more time spent worshiping English football matches or pop stars than praying in mosques or churches.
Openness:
Indonesians take humble pride in their own culture and achievements, but are incredibly open to outside influence. (Unlike the Thais, for example.) They are very welcoming and adaptive toward foreigners. There’s no xenophobia here.
This extends to the business world too. Foreigners have been welcomed into many of Indonesia’s largest conglomerates as both senior directors and shareholders, while many have started major local companies of their own. This open-minded society has resulted in an open market full of opportunity.
This openness may explain why travel is booming. Indonesians are increasingly traveling overseas, interacting more intensively with the world and global economy. Indonesian expats are returning from years overseas to participate in the nation-building at home, becoming local entrepreneurs, academics, NGO types, lawyers, etc. And Indonesians are suddenly eagerly touristing locally, discovering their own country in a way they never did before.
Future:
The future looks bright for Indonesia.
There have been three democratic, peaceful regime changes in the 15 years since the big reform, and no real fear that Indonesia will return to dictatorship.
Indonesia is today the most democratic country in Southeast Asia, having surpassed more “progressive” neighbors like Thailand, the Philippines and Malaysia. (Just fifteen years ago, Indonesia would have trailed far behind.)
Despite criticism of the current government — which in itself is a breath of fresh air — President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono managed to steer the economy very skillfully, attracting huge foreign direct investment.
Summary:
In Indonesia, one must always look beyond the surface at the substance. It’s easy to be intimidated by corruption, traffic and pollution. But those frustrations are merely superficial distractions in a country that is unbelievably welcoming and more open for business than ever before.
Very interesting facts about Indonesia and an area of the world that I haven't put much thought into ever. Their phrase “jam karet” perfectly applies to how a songwriter, musician, performer, or artist of any type must think in order to not drive themselves crazy while waiting for a big break or next opportunity. Things take time. I love “rubber time” and that's a neat way to think. Thanks for sharing Derek!
Trey :)
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Hi
I have been to Indonesia a few times, once for a month in Surabaya and Jakarta, and then again to Jakarta and Bali (almost Indonesia!). My experience is 20 years ago. However, I found this very readable style wize and concise. Glad you acknowledge the corruption and the sheer volume of people! 4th highest population in the world I understand. Also, remembering as a European the hooting of the cars, vans, anything on wheels just makes a noise to say "I am here!" When I got back to Europe I missed that having got used to it. Your comments about what is underneath the surface are a very interesting read. Analytical rather than descriptive, but an interesting read. You imply that Islam is more nominal than extrme, but no mention of the Indonesian approach to drugs
http://www.smh.com.au/world/indonesia-executes-drug-trafficker-20131119-2xsaq.html or the on going case of Schapelle Corby. Specifics yes, but for the foreign traveller to these parts, an issue to consider. Maybe this mentioned later on - very readable and interesting first page.
A lot of this, I didn't know. Thanks for sharing, Derek!
The concept of only having six "official" religions rather blew my mind, so I looked them up. Wow, two types of Christianity (Protestant and Catholic), but no category for Jewish. Can't say I like being lumped in with the evangelical Christians, or having my husband's Jewishness being totally ignored. And yet, it's refreshing that all the various splinter groups aren't allowed to get out of hand. Strange thoughts to wrap my brain around.
As a missionary to Indonesia, I will be returning there soon to learn the language, and to introduce two new businesses. I greatlyi appreciated your insight and I look forward to reading your 2014 book to better learn how to do business there: singing and other types of business. It would be good to stay in touch with you so I can be more effective in these endeavors.
Thanks Derek. Please continue to write. Your timing with article was right-on!
Deborah
I am proud to be Indonesian. Since there're lot of corruption but we're expecting new government by election this year. The middle class in Indonesia continues to rise, and this … can turn Indonesia into Asia’s next big opportunity.
Derek, you ever visited my hometown Yogyakarta years ago, if you might remember I made phone call to your hotel. Anyway, more success in your new hometown now.
Hi Anton! Yes of course I remember! It was in that hotel in Yogyakarta - the day after you called - that I decided to start these books! Indonesia was the inspiration. — Derek
No mention of genocide. Have you seen 'The Act of Killing' yet?
I lived in total 7 years in Indonesia and the intro is spot on. But corruption makes things confusing as a Westerner as people expect you to be rich and expect therefore much more. Also transactions are based on "trust". They hate contracts with rules and so on. Combine trust with corruption is a strange mix, which needs real sensitivity from the non Indonesian participant. This happened to me.
I inherited a house of 300.000 US dollar worth but according to law as a foreigner I could only own it for a max of 1 year. A 'bad' Russian woman living there for years and married to a general (!), fabricated an official paper bribing an important judge, that I was not the son of my Father (lol) So she claimed the house, but I had all the official papers, but lived in the Netherlands . Dead lock. Then in my necessary visits to Indonesia I met a very religious Islam man, always wearing pure white cloths with not a spot on it Very difficult when you are poor and live in a not so clean part of the city which is 80% of Jakarta. He helped me (I did not speak one word Indonesian) with many visits to the police, the lawyer, to courts the first three months of my first visits of total 4 in 3 years and then I gave up.
He was the 40 year old married with the beautiful daughter of the older lady, the owner of the guesthouse I chose at random to avoid expensive hotels. He promised me to do all the visits to official persons, when I would be back home in the Netherlands. To give you an idea, a building in Jakarta 5 km away from where you are , takes 1-1.5 hrs traffic time in tropical heats, there are always traffic jams except after mid night. For official appointments, you are on time they, never and sometimes without warning they do not show up at all. Almost a year later we achieved almost nothing and the woman in the mean time lived in the house (occupied by force) I 'sold' the house to this man for ...nothing. I trusted him.
In short after 7 years I got a mail He had finally a paper from the Supreme Court that the woman was a fraud and he was the only and legitimate owner. Over the years I raised my original promise that he could have 15% of the worth of the house to 40%.
I flew over for my last 5th visit and he proudly showed me the 'house' dossier: more than one meter width of official papers he accumulated. I immediately realized the hundreds of hours of tropical sweat, frustration, waiting and waiting and bribing (which I paid back form Holland) and traveling. He never gave up, never got a cent for it except my promise and I hardly new him as he does not speak English and only through his wife I totally spoke to him maybe 1 hour? I realized it was a house I never had and inherited by idea. It was his sweat, his perseverance who got it in the end against all odds. It was his house I realized intuitively. The house would raise his status immensely for his family and his wife and he was such a devoted man of God...I phoned my wife and after consensus with her, I gave the house to him as he deserved it. A small part of my ego said I was foolish, but I never had the experience of so much money so I gave away only fantasies of it. 60% of 300k is 240k and in Holland 'only' 200K euros. In Indonesia however 300k US $ is like 2-3 million dollars and I was sure he would see it in his religious sincerity as a gift from God ;)
Amazing story! Thank you. — Derek
I'm indonesian... your posting is very accurate... incridible... I even laugh to read how messy Indonesia is.
About "jam karet" is true.
About "love paying $25 to obtain an instant drivers license instead of the official $10 with its days of bureaucracy and road tests." is absolutely true several months ago... but the recent law making it impossible... (gosshh.. we are get better :-) )
But, to realize how many indonesians starting their own business, there's no doubt for brighter future... at least for me.
My friend even told me "However hard your condition is... never even has a thought looking for a job." It's quite intimidating... but there's lots of Indonesian that having that kind a perspective about starting your own business.
What I think that crazy about Indonesian recently is the media has a lot more power than government... democratic or too democratic?
Watch TV One (Indonesian local tv) and you know what I mean about too democratic... almost everyday you will watch politicians explaining everything to civil cociety... the politicians have to had good explain about their decisions, or their career will end the next day. It's so crazy.
Indonesian people are also curious about visitors, from what I've heard. I worked on a movie that was filmed there and some of staff were followed by groups of people. Nothing was being filmed at the time, they were just curious about them as foreigners. I found that info fascinating.
I am an Indonesian and majority of what Derek says above is very true. About the rule-bending above, it reminds me to my British ex-boss who once said Britain Rules the Wave, Indonesia Waives the Rules. While it is true, it still hurts my pride as an Indonesian. I would rather agree with Derek, when he refers to Indonesia as Indonesia 2.0 or beta version. Hey, even Microsoft and Apple are not perfect. They have come along way, but there are still security holes and a lot of things to patch up. I am not trying to be defensive here, but that is also the case with Indonesia. There are plenty of challenges, many homeworks to do, but we are working on it, and hopefully Indonesia will be able to catch-up with other more developed countries while preserving its own identity. We would like to invite our western friends to be ordinary Indonesian just for a week, then maybe you could appreciate what we have to endure in our daily lives.
(Credit where it's due: this essay was written by Daniel Ziv, not me. Please see the top paragraph.) — Derek
What a beautiful, smart, concise piece. I love it - am so grateful to see this summary about a country I love and have spent so much time in the past 2 years.
You forget to mention the big theft problem.
Wow - what an eye-opening summation! I know nothing about Indonesia besides what little I learned from a long-ago American boyfriend whose parents were employed at a University there back in the '70s, plus a lot of positive things I've heard recently about the island/country of Bali,which is now part of Indonesia (so I've been thinking about visiting sometime - but even from Hawai'i, flights are quite expensive). Food for thought, certainly, as much of this will clash with my own very Western ideas & ideals…!
Sounds like a place where you never know quite where you stand unless you've grown up there.
Thanks for all the enthusiastic comments! I'm happy the piece seems to have struck a chord and provided some insights, and especially that so many Indonesian readers feel it's a fair (if in places uncomfortable) portrayal of the state of affairs here. I'm hugely grateful to Derek for providing me with this platform as an incentive to gather some of my thoughts. 'Summarizing' a country in just a few pages is always a dangerous exercise and never does justice to a complex, nuanced society like Indonesia. So I tried my best to identify some common characteristics and trends that would give at least a sense of how things operate here. Derek then provided some very useful feedback and suggestions. Meanwhile, any further comments/criticisms greatly appreciated, as I am currently working on a new book about Indonesian identity :)
Thanks Daniel! — Derek
Very accurate. I liked the way you described how Indonesians embrace religion, because I participate in prayers to Buddhist temples with my family and even at home, but I'm not that religious, like you stated its more like a respect to family tradition. Rubber time made me laugh! There is definitely a need for better time management (and to not use the traffic jam as an excuse lol). Flexibility: A good metaphor for Indonesians' awesome flexibility skills is the traffic. The cars rarely stay in one straight line. As for non-confrontation most choose to talk behind backs and avoid judging directly, which is why personally I think someone's image matters a lot in Indonesian societies.
This article is very interesting. I do hope Indonesia can make progress in future and be better at dealing with internal problems :)
It may make a pleasant read to read your romantic account of Indonesia but it could also be rather misleading. I refer specifically to your referring to Indonesians as "nominal Islam/Muslims." (A Muslim would take that as a derogatory remark.)
But it is true that the basic nature of Indonesians are as most polynesians, happy and carefree, but in Indonesia and Malaysia it has been influenced by the recent arrival of Islam. At the moment, most Indonesians have treated Islam as a way of life, and with naive perception of Islam's doctrines. But as their Imams become more sophisticated about Islamic doctrines, those grinning faces will be replaced by bearded Jihadists out to rule the world. The changes can already be seen and felt throughout Indonesia especially in Aceh. It would be wrong not to expose this change in the culture and attitudes of the Islamic population of Indonesia in recent years. Indonesia will no longer remain that idyllic shangri-la of old.
I can remember in the 1980's, before the fall of the Berlin Wall, according to someone from Canada who lived in a village, that if you were going to Indonesia you would be advised to arbitrarily pick a religion, because if you said atheist people would be shocked and think you must be a communist.
As a Dutch person, I wanted to learn more about the colonial history from an Indonesian perspective. One great book is "This Earth of Mankind" by Pramoedya Ananta Toer. Another interesting resource is The East, a movie about the Indonesian war for independence. Although the movie is officially fictional, it offers resources to learn more about this part of history.
If you're interested in more resources, I summarized a few on my blog www.culturalreads.com/the-list
Thank you! — Derek