A man's hands are holding an assembly of 3D-printed parts. There is a white backplate, with a yellow circular piece running through the middle. The yellow piece is surrounded by metal rods. Another blue shaft runs through the left side of the assembly. A rougly-diamond shaped plate encompasses both of these shafts.

Designing A Simpler Cycloidal Drive

Cycloidal drives have an entrancing motion, as well as a few other advantages – high torque and efficiency, low backlash, and compactness among them. However, much as [Sergei Mishin] likes them, it can be difficult to 3D-print high-torque drives, and it’s sometimes inconvenient to have the input and output shafts in-line. When, therefore, he came across a video of an industrial three-ring reducing drive, which works on a similar principle, he naturally designed his own 3D-printable drive.

The main issue with 3D-printing a normal cycloidal drive is with the eccentrically-mounted cycloidal plate, since the pins which run through its holes need bearings to keep them from quickly wearing out the plastic plate at high torque. This puts some unfortunate constraints on the size of the drive. A three-ring drive also uses an eccentric drive shaft to cause cycloidal plates to oscillate around a set of pins, but the input and output shafts are offset so that the plates encompass both the pins and the eccentric driveshaft. This simplifies construction significantly, and also makes it possible to add more than one input or output shaft.

As the name indicates, these drives use three plates 120 degrees out of phase with each other; [Sergei] tried a design with only two plates 180 degrees out of phase, but since there was a point at which the plates could rotate just as easily in either direction, it jammed easily. Unlike standard cycloidal gears, these plates use epicycloidal rather than hypocycloidal profiles, since they move around the outside of the pins. [Sergei] helpfully wrote a Python script that can generate profiles, animate them, and export to DXF. The final performance of these drives will depend on their design parameters and printing material, but [Sergei] tested a 20:1 drive and reached a respectable 9.8 Newton-meters before it started skipping.

Even without this design’s advantages, it’s still possible to 3D-print a cycloidal drive, its cousin the harmonic drive, or even more exotic drive configurations. Continue reading “Designing A Simpler Cycloidal Drive”

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Compact Cycloidal Drive Lives Inside This Custom Brushless Motor

With the popularity of robot dogs, many people have gotten on the bandwagon and tried building DIY versions. Most of them end up attaching a gearbox to an off-the-shelf brushless motor and call it a day. Not everyone goes that way, though, which is why this internal cycloidal drive actuator caught our eye.

Taking design cues from the MIT Mini Cheetah, [Aaed Musa] approached his actuator from the inside out, literally. His 3D printed cycloidal gearbox is designed to fit inside the stator of a BLDC motor. And not just any BLDC motor, but one built mostly from scratch using a hand-wound — and unwound, and wound again — stator along with a rotor that started as a printed part but was eventually machined from steel. Apart from its fixed ring, the cycloidal drive was mostly 3D printed, with everything fitting nicely inside the stator.

The video below shows the design and assembly process as well as testing of the finished drive. It seems to do really well with speed and positional accuracy, and it delivers a substantial amount of torque. Maybe a little too much, though; testing it with a heavy weight on the end of an arm got the stator coils hot enough to warp the printed parts within. But no matter; this was only a prototype after all. [Aaed] says improvements are in the works, including replacing all the plastic parts with metal ones.

Need a little background on cycloidal drives? They’re pretty cool.

Continue reading “Compact Cycloidal Drive Lives Inside This Custom Brushless Motor”

Inconsistent layer heights in a 3D print

An Easy Fix For Inconsistent Layers In Cheap 3D Printers

If there’s one thing you can say about [Stefan] from CNC Kitchen, it’s that he’s methodical when he’s working on an improvement to his 3D printing processes, or when he’s chasing down a problem with a printer. Case in point: this root-cause analysis of extrusion inconsistencies with an entry-level 3D printer.

The printer in question is a Cetus MK3, a printer that found its way onto many benches due to its ridiculously low price and high-quality linear bearings. Unfortunately, there’s still a lot to be desired about the printer, and its tendency for inconsistent layers was chief among [Stefan]’s gripes. Such “blubbiness” can be pinned on any number of problems, but rather than guess, [Stefan] went through a systematic process of elimination to find the root cause. We won’t spoil the ending, but suffice it to say that the problem was subtle, and could probably be the cause of similar problems with other printers. The fix was also easy, and completely mechanical — just a couple of parts to replace. The video below shows the whole diagnosis process, as well as the before and after comparisons. [Stefan] also teases an upcoming treatment on how he converted the Cetus from the stock proprietary control board, which we’re interested in seeing.

If you haven’t checked out any of [Stefan]’s other 3D printing videos, you really should take a look. Whether it’s vibration damping with a concrete paver, salt annealing prints for strength, or using finite element analysis to optimize infills, he’s always got an interesting take on 3D printing.

Continue reading “An Easy Fix For Inconsistent Layers In Cheap 3D Printers”