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Dirty Kitchen Adventures

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Dirty Kitchen Adventures

Monthly Archives: May 2008

catch up

28 Wednesday May 2008

Posted by Jenn in Uncategorized

≈ 2 Comments

Things I have cooked but not posted about and why:
A swiss chard and bacon pasta that was pretty good but not spectacular. Basically- red onion, swiss chard, linguine, topped with bacon. I bet it would be tasty if you added some golden raisins and plumped them up in some broth. But now I have a huge container of it in my fridge that needs to be eaten and no one in the house really likes it enough to finish it.
A highly anticipated peppered beef shank dish that was cooked in the oven at 200 degrees for 8 hours. The idea was to cook it until it fell apart into the chianti, garlic, and black pepper it was cooked in. The problem was that the very vague recipe it came from specified FOUR TABLESPOONS of pepper, and I failed to put nearly enough beef in. The result? Extremely salty, exceedingly peppery beef shanks that were okay, but definitely didn’t live up to the hype.
Sauteed summer squash that sort of saved the beef shanks. Unfortunately, I didn’t take pictures, but the dish is pretty self explanatory. Summer squash, diced onion, and toasted garlic. Summer squash is one of my favorite vegetables!

poisson

23 Friday May 2008

Posted by Jenn in Uncategorized

≈ 3 Comments

Last week I bought some cod from my local Central Market, because it was on sale. I love Central Market because it caters to people who are unabashedly enthusiastic about food, and the fishmonger and butchers usually have helpful suggestions about how to cook the products in question. This time, though, when I asked the fishmonger, “So, do I just bread and fry this thing?” he said, “That’s pretty much all it’s good for.” Not the most enthusiastic recommendation I’ve ever gotten of a fish, but cod is cheap and I figured I’d find something tasty to do with it, even if it did end up just becoming fish sticks.
Browsing my epicurious recipe-of-the day archives, I came across a fish baked in parchment paper recipe that called for cod or halibut. Hallelujah! I tripled the amount of tarragon in the recipe, and the result was a fresh, flavorful and light dish that evoked images of camping and tossing your fishing catch into… um, parchment paper, with some asparagus, butter, and tarragon. Very luxurious camping, but the gentle action of the parchment baking kept the fish so moist and tasty it seemed like it had just been caught.

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I’d never cooked with parchment paper before- that stuff is hard to deal with. Does anyone have tips for the folding and crimping process to get it to stay the first time around? I felt like I was dealing with some serious food oragami that I didn’t quite understand.

I served this with a side of soft scrambled eggs with chives and ricotta– unintuitive, but the eggs and chives went very well with the asparagus. My one caveat was that the meal was so light it left us both still hungry, so we had to “top off” with french onion soup and cookies!

perfection

19 Monday May 2008

Posted by Jenn in Uncategorized

≈ 2 Comments

No matter how hard I try, my french onion soup is never perfect according to a certain picky someone. He’s my harshest critic- but I appreciate it! Over the years, I’ve tweaked and refined my technique, down to an art. I even went so far as to pick up the perfect blue-and-white soup tureens with handles from the Salvation Army. My latest iteration has met with approval: it is the best french onion soup I have ever made and the only thing it lacks is an inexplicable “broth richness.” All I can think of is that I either have to a) make the stock/consomme from scratch with veal bones, or b) use Campbell’s canned which is what he grew up with and probably has MSG, which gives you that full mouth feel. Since neither of those options are really feasible to me, I’ll just list this as “the best French Onion Soup Yet.”

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best french onion soup yet
based on Julia Child’s original recipe

Thinly slice 3 pounds of yellow onions. Cook slowly, over low heat, in a large covered stockpot, with 6-8 T butter, 2 t salt, and 1/2 t sugar. As the onions sweat their liquids into the pot, slowly raise the heat to moderate, which will evaporate the liquid and help the onions brown. The more slowly the onions brown, the more complex their flavor; however, the longer they brown the more they will fall apart and the longer you will be waiting! I usually take about an hour to 1 1/2 hours for this part.

Once carmelized, slowly sprinkle in 3 T of flour into the onions, stirring all the while. Remove from heat. Blend in 4 HOT quarts of beef stock- stirring vigorously to remove any lumps from the flour. If liquid is not hot, flour will form lots of little lumps. Add 1 cup vermouth, salt and white pepper. Simmer 30-40 minutes.

Just before serving, stir in 6 T brandy. I create rounds of bread by using the top of a glass:

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I then toast the rounds and lay them on the soup when it has been ladled into the tureens:

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I lay 4-5 slices of baby swiss cheese on each tureen and slide them under the broiler on high heat until browned and bubbling. Serve hot!

every cookie should be this good

19 Monday May 2008

Posted by Jenn in Uncategorized

≈ 2 Comments

No, I’m not being self-absorbed. I’m quoting only one of the best food critics out there, Jeffrey Steingarten (Vogue) who is also a regular Iron Chef America judge. He’s my favorite judge, other than Bonecrusher, and no one ever believes me when I say Bonecrusher was an Iron Chef judge. In his latest collection, he finishes the book with an essay titled “Standards and Practices” of which the basic jist is: If there is a standard recipe out there which is of x quality, then no variant of that food should ever be worse than that quality. I quite agree. He uses, as his prime example, the chocolate chip cookie. The Nestle Toll House recipe makes a very good, very acceptable, and very regularly predictable chocolate chip cookie. Why is it, then, that so many chocolate chip cookies are, frankly, terrible!?

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Griping aside, dear Jeffrey claims to have improved upon the Toll House recipe, a claim I had to take to the test for my at-home insatiable cookie judge. These cookies passed the test the instant I tried to cool them on a wire rack and they oozed right through- a soft, gooey, chocolatey, doughy, sweet, sticky, warm mess on my counter. I like my cookies crunchier than the cookie dough fiend in the house, but no fear- after accidentally par-baking a batch when I forgot to turn the oven back on, 8 of them turned out perfectly for me.

Jeffrey Steingarten’s really good chocolate chip cookies

(from It must have been something I ate)

Combine 2 cups all purpose flour, 1 tsp salt, and 1 tsp baking soda in a bowl. In a mixer, cream 2 sticks (1 cup) butter, 3/4 cup light brown sugar, 1/4 cup dark brown sugar, and 3/4 cup granulated white sugar. Add 1 tsp vanilla, 2 T water, 1 egg. Add flour mixture. Add 1 1/2 cup semi sweet morsels. Drop onto baking sheet (teaspoons! tablespoons I think were part of the problem) and bake at 375 for 10 minutes. Longer if you like firmer cookies. Cool on a rack at your own risk.

thanksgiving in may

19 Monday May 2008

Posted by Jenn in Uncategorized

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This past weekend, my fantastic neighbors invited us over for Thanksgiving dinner, with all the trimmings. We ate gorged ourselves silly on mashed potatoes, gravy, sweet potatoes, green bean casserole, stuffing, corn, croissants, cranberry sauce, and of course, a 12 pound turkey. Finished off with pumpkin pie, whipped cream, and cookies. Genius. Who says it only has to happen once a year? Especially if I all I have to make is the stuffing (and cookies – but that’s a later post).
Since the stuffing was a 2 part process, I get to post 2 pictures. On Francis’ suggestion, I tried out real sunlight this time. Look how beautifully they turned out! It’s too bad with my work schedule I only see a few hours of sunlight a day, and only from a couple windows of my house.

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part 1: cornbread fit for the gods

This isn’t cornbread for the faint of heart. First, slowly cook 2 pounds of bacon, rendering all the fat. You should end up with a cup of bacon fat. Then whisk together 2 cups of all purpose flour, 2 T baking soda, 1 t salt, and mix in 2 cups of yellow cornmeal, and 1/2 cup sugar until combined. In a separate bowl, beat 2 cups of milk and 2 large eggs. Add the fat to the flour mixture and beat with an electric mixer. It should be like coarse meal. If necessary, add a little more cornmeal. Beat in egg mixture until just combined (the batter will be runny). Bake in 2 greased (I used shortening MMMM heart attack) 9 x 5 x 3 loaf pans at 400 degrees for 50 minutes (until a toothpick comes out clean). Cool for 10 minutes in the pan on a wire rack, then turn out on rack to cool completely. Wrap in plastic wrap.

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part 2: andouille sausage (meaty meaty) stuffing

Cook 1 pound andouille sausage and 1 1/2 pounds chorizo in a pan, breaking into pieces, until browned. Add 3 cups onion, 2 cups celery, 2 cups red bell pepper. Cover and cook until vegetables are tender (10-15 min). At this point you may want to drain the fat and juice from the meat. Stir in 1 cup green onions, 2 tsp thyme, 1 tsp hot pepper sauce, and 1 tsp sage. Off heat, stir in 12 oz of cornbread (about one to one and a half of the loaves above). If necessary, moisten with reserved juices or chicken broth.

Bake at 350 degrees in a well greased baking dish. Tent with foil for 30 minutes, then bake for another 20 minutes without foil until well browned on top.

bacon makes everything better

19 Monday May 2008

Posted by Jenn in Uncategorized

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Adding cured and salted slices of pig to food automatially makes it better. For this meal, I took the best of two recipes and combined them into one super-dinner!

My favorite alfredo recipe comes from epicurious.com, listed here, and I use it in all instances, mixed with vegetables and seafoods, and different pastas. I like it because it lacks the floury gumminess so often found in heavier alfredo recipes, yet is still rich and buttery. Here, I used it to make a simple fettucine alfredo. I paired the side with my favorite spring vegetable: asparagus, prepared more or less according to this fabulous recipe (though I would not salt the bundles- yikes! Aren’t they salty enough already? Also, I like a higher asparagus to prosciutto ratio). The balsamic reduction makes a wonderful foil to the mild pasta.

Prosciutto wrapped asparagus with fettucine alfredo. A perfect spring dinner.

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chez panisse

19 Monday May 2008

Posted by Jenn in Uncategorized

≈ 2 Comments

Chez Panisse is an inspiration. Alice Waters’ revolutionary Berkeley restaurant showcased the bounty of local, fresh food long before it was trendy. That being said, my Chez Panisse cookbook is one of my least used. When I first bought it, I eagerly dog eared dozens of recipes and began making my way through them slowly, but now, almost two years later, dozens remain. Why? I believe it has to do with the combinations of ingredients. I just don’t often find myself cooking with squab, truffles, quail, whole racks or legs of lamb, and many of the recipes have too many steps to lend themselves to after work cooking. Plus, there are tons of salads, and I’m just not a salad girl.
But I’m a garlic girl through and through, and it doesn’t get much better than this:

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whole baked garlic
(from the chez panisse menu cookbook)

Preheat the oven to 275 degrees. Remove the skin from the top half of each head of 6 heads of garlic, exposing the individual cloves. Arrange in a baking dish and dot with 1/3 cup of butter. Pour 1/3 cup of olive oil over and salt and pepper well. Put thyme sprigs here and there. Bake, covered, for 30 minutes, then take off the cover and baste every 15 minutes for an additional 1 to 1 1/2 hours depending on the size of the heads. The garlic should be very tender and sweet. I don’t know if they should be as brown as in the picture, but I quite enjoyed them that carmelized.

When the garlic is done, serve with the olive oil from the dish spooned over them. I went the extra mile and squeezed each clove out of the head onto a dish, spooned the oil out, and added the crisped thyme.

Served with peasant bread and soft white cheese, such as goat cheese or queso fresco.

weekly pasta

19 Monday May 2008

Posted by Jenn in Uncategorized

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This recipe came from the book Heat, by Bill Buford. For those of you who enjoy foodie books, it’s an enjoyable, if sometimes aggravating read. Enjoyable for his descriptions of food and the inner workings of the food industry. Aggravating that someone so initially inept in the kitchen would be allowed to apprentice at Babbo. The irksome bits get fewer and farther between as Burford becomes a better and better cook, and one of the best things about the book are the inspired, fly-by-the seat of your pants recipes that come out of it.

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linguine with clams

In a pan (I started with a saute pan, but as I had a pound of clams, ended up transferring to a heavy bottomed stockpot), melt butter and add some small pinches of garlic and chili. I used a serrano for the color but I suppose you could use dried chiles, poblanos, jalepenos or whatever strikes your fancy. Even chile powder, maybe.

Add medium pinches of onion and panchetta. I love onion and panchetta so I interpreted this as about 3/4 of an onion and 5 slices of panchetta (chopped).

(note: the original recipe says to saute the above in olive oil, then pour off the oil and add butter. This seemed a waste of flavor and oil so I elected to simply use butter in the beginning and not pour anything off. If you wish, you could just use olive oil instead).

On high flame, add white wine. I used a chenin blanc. I don’t know how much, basically just splashed it in. For beginner chefs, I recommend using a cup to do this, not doing it directly from the bottle. Use the sound of the sizzle to tell you when to stop. When it stops sizzling, and you have maybe 1/4 inch liquid on the bottom of the pan, you’re good. Add clams. I added a pound. Make sure they were scrubbed and cleaned well before!

Put on the linguine. The clams will open in 3-4 minutes. Discard any that do not open. Swirl the pan to mix the juices.

At 6 minutes, add the linguine. Add enough pasta water to make a nice sauce. Swirl and heat for 30 seconds or so.

Serve, topped with olive oil and parsley.

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