back when i lived in california and surfed every day, i wouldn't check the surf report. all my dude friends would, and would be selective about what days they surfed on. i didn't care, i wanted to surf everyday regardless. so i would just get up early, change into my swimsuit, put on a tank top and shorts, find my flip flops, grab my wetsuit, wax, and surfboard - and just go. you never know until you go.
i didn't have internet at home. there was no point as i was at school 90 percent of the time and could just use it there to check in. i suppose i could have tuned a radio in, somehow, at home or in the car. so i could at least know what's coming, and prepare myself. i like silence in the mornings though, so i went without knowing. there were many beaches to choose from, and if i had listened to the report i could have found the best one for that day but i often went to the same spot again and again. this spot was a beach break, and had such variety from one day to the next. every day i went there i was unprepared, and dealt with the conditions as i found them. you could look at the waves from the shore for a while and try to get a read for what was out there, but you couldn't really know until you went in. until you waded in a foot, then two - you could get a feel for whether the waves were lashing or lapping. stepping in more you either gently set your board down on a chill ocean, or it slaps down out of your hand, half ready to drift off with the angry current.
as you go in further and get on a board, you get a sense for the wave patterns. how quickly they are coming, from which direction, and what size within each set. the first one is like a warning shot, a little small but a pawn laying the groundwork for the bigger ones to come. you navigate the waves based on the timing of the set - if you didn't catch the first, you aim for the second or third. or if you were like me, you'd chicken out and wait for the fourth, or fifth. or sometimes just not go at all, because it takes all day to summon up the courage to take on a 10 footer when really, you can barely handle anything half that size. sometimes it's just about getting out there and being amongst giants and realizing how far out of your depth you are at that moment. if you can get back in without damage, more power to you for having survived.
then there were the slow days. when the ocean looked like a lake and the waves were mere shrugs. these were the days that my friends wouldn't bother. these days i would paddle out anyway, because i appreciated all days in the water. the crazy days, the bad days. really though this was not a bad day. it was just a day to practice paddling, finding my center of gravity on the board, lifting with my chest and balancing on my belly. when the ocean was this calm you could see the bottom. little fish darting around, rocks. one time i took a friend surfing with me and it was completely flat, but we paddled out any way so he could get a feel for being on the board. the water was incredibly clear, and when we were out far enough we could see tons of fish swimming below, and amongst them were dolphins. my friend almost shit himself with excitement, but instead he wobbled and fell off the board, scaring off the dolphins. despite there being no waves, it was a very good day. you never know until you go.
sometimes, when i was alone in a mellow ocean and there was no one around, i would sit on my board past the break and sing a cat power song. good woman.
i want
to be a good woman
and i want
for you to be a good man
and this is why
i will be leaving
and this is why
i can't see you no more
then i would move on and sing werewolf. it was my own way of howling at the waves. the melancholy songs are not what make me happy, exactly, but they resonate and bring a sense of peace.
i am reminded of the time i was at the beach, and a woman was sitting in her car. she had just had an anxiety or panic attack of some sort, and needed to talk to someone to calm her down. these sorts of attacks were a bizarre notion to me at the time, but stress that i have encountered later in life makes that memory all the more real. i stood there and talked to her, but i had no idea really of the right thing i should have said. it was weird to me that it was such a beautiful day at the beach and someone should feel so miserable in such a place. the power of whatever she was feeling must have been great to overwhelm such an environment.
surfing calmed me, tested me, gave me regularity. taught me how to wake up early. surfing gave me time to be alone in mornings with no one else, just this giant endless edge of ocean. my fears would rise up with the waves, the calm would return as they crashed past me towards the shore. some days i would accomplish a good ride, other days i'd be mashed down and humbled. the ocean was what it was with no pretense or negotiation needed. we are ridiculous for trying to be one with it, but for the things you can get out of it when you can are well worth it. i miss it. everyone should try it at least once, because you never really know until you go.