The final blog update for 2021 may not be all that big however I have been busy with a few things.
Following on from the success of the J70 (Toby) tram project I began looking around for the next G project. This lead me down the path to narrow gauge industrial railways and discovering sixteen mm to the foot scale (1:19). As the club track is 45mm the choice between SM32 or SM45 was already made - SM45 (sixteen mm on 45mm gauge).
Using the links provided by the Association of 16mm Narrow Gauge Modellers (https://www.16mm.org.uk/) I researched what was on offer in kit form. I also joined to get access to a variety of publications. All kits seem to be reasonably priced however I thought what was on offer in 3D land. Thingiverse provided a number of options for the loco and wagons. So I fired up the 3D printer and started printing these 'kits' out. It took probably a week of sporadic printing in between going to work and being at home to keep an eye on the printer but once done the assembling began. First the loco. Superglue slow set gel was my preferred adhesive. Painting either via airbrush or hand was then used to bring the model to life followed by some light weathering. I printed a driver and painted him up. My thoughts at this scale there is no excuse for not having a driver (just a pet peeve that in the smaller scales no drivers are put in the cabs by most manufacturers - how hard would it be at very little additional cost)!
Then onto the wagons. I found a tipper in G scale that I altered to suit 16mm. I could also use the wagon chassis as the base for other wagons like a passenger seat wagon and tools flatbed.
Following a bit of post printing prep work on the tipper body using Tamiya white filler, acetone to thin it down, and an art rubber spatula, I was able to smooth out the print lines into a solid looking one cast tipper bucket. An undercoat spray was used (Tamiya red) followed by Tamiya Dark Iron XF-84 airbrushed on made these tippers look really good (in my opinion any way).



Whilst all this modelling was going on I also revisited the control app I used for Toby. I was concerned that as it was written in a code I didn't understand or could export easily, if anything happened to the publisher of the app writer (MIT App Inventor) I would be in a bit of a problem. So I started looking into the options. Coincidentally in my 16mm research I stumbled on LocoRemote (http://locoremote.co.uk/) in the UK who does what I was thinking of doing myself. So taking inspiration from his browser control I started the research. After many weeks/months of going down various rabbit holes I came back to the KISS principle and settled on basic HTML, Javascript and CSS style sheets. The intent was to use the NodeMCU controller as a webserver to cast a web page with the various controls to the old smartphone (or anything with a browser) and then action any commands sent from the browser via the NodeMCU to control the loco. This took a bit of time to get an understanding of Javascript coding and how the three basic components interact to create a dynamic and useable web page. I finally got there and it has been successfully tested on Toby running at the club.

Back to the diesel shunter and working out how to control it. The battery fits in the control desk. The motor is under the hood but there is space for other electronics. I couldn't fit a NodeMCU in as it is too long. Once again looking at LocoRemote's controllers I could see that a Wemos D1 Mini is used along with some other boards which I think are custom made. The owner is an electronics engineer! So I sent away for some Wemos D1 minis (basically the same as a NodeMCU but they cleverly fit the esp8266 processor and antenna on the reverse side of the PCB whereas NodeMCU is all on one side. I also needed a very small motor controller. I found a Pololu driver which is very small from Core Electronics and sent away for one of these and a DFPlayer sound card as I wanted sound in the loco similar to Toby. Now this is where things turned interesting. Using the same basic code as Toby and when connected via USB to the PC, the Wemos advertises the page fine however I can't get any functions working (WTF!). When I connect a battery to the Wemos 5V in via a voltage divider (9V to 5.1V) OR via a voltage regulator to 5V, nothing happens AND the voltage across the board is about 1V or less. I've tried a diode in the source voltage to no effect. I have since discovered these Wemos D1s are clones which look slightly different to the OEM version, but as these are open source, there could be slight variations in manufacture. The only thing I haven't tried is a buck converter. This would similarly have to be very small to fit into the space allowed for. Very frustrating!
So what for 2022?
As of the time of writing this blog entry I am on the verge of buying a LocoRemote controller just to see if (a) it controls the diesel loco and (b) how the controller and accessories board/s are put together to see if I have missed something in the electronics.
I'm also looking into a live steamer kit. I've always wanted a live steamer however the cost of RTR is very expensive, even in the smaller gauges. A kit is cheaper and would allow me to understand how they work in order to service or repair it. I would be having to learn to solder brass which I have never done before but maybe with the help of Youtube and possibly club member/s it may not be a big issue.
The other option is 3D printing a Qld Railways 'Red Fred' railmotor scaled suitable for the 45mm track at the club.
I have a couple of QR passenger carriages kits in resin to make up and paint, along with RTR wagons to weather. Rainy day projects!
Let's see what time, money and whatever 2022 throws at us can do!