If one were to discuss greatly overlooked complicated Patek Philippe, the 3450 is definitely in that category. The 3450 could be described as transitional, launched in 1981 and taking over from the first self-winding QP ref. 3448, it was quickly succeeded by Philippe Stern’s inimitable 3940 in 1985. Effectively, it...

One of the most revered vintage chronographs Heuer ever made, the manual, screw-back Autavia is at the height of many collector’s Heuer lists. With a tri-subdial Valjoux 72 layout, rotating luminous bezel, and 39mm case, it’s a Daytona of the people. And it’s properly proportioned, thin—even a bit contemporary. It’s...

Souscription is often associated with Resonance and Tourbillon, but it was extended into the early days of the Octa range equally. In fact, they’re some of the most subtly excellent collector’s Journes made. After the success of first two models, Journe launched the Octa platform to prove that an automatic...

In 1983, Vacheron Constantin announced to the world their intentions to return to traditional, complicated mechanical watchmaking in the wake of the quartz crisis with the ref. 43031 Perpetual Calendar. Switzerland had been decimated, with watch industry employment falling from 90,000 to 28,000 and the number of dedicated watchmakers employed...

Antimagnetic or scientist’s watches are a long overlooked, often beautiful collecting category. A trend during the mid-century, when science was the way forward, these were usually a halfway-stop between a dress/three-handed and tool watch aesthetic. Patek Philippe had the Amag, Rolex had the Milgauss, Omega had the Railmaster. Yet, one...

The transitional 16550 marked the start of the Explorer II as a dual-time zone watch. In one instant, the hour hand was able to jump and the GMT-Master II had a credible rival. Further, it also introduced a massive fault we’ve all come to adore: the cream dial. Early 16550s...