HARVESTING PACIFIC RAZOR CLAMS ON A WASHINGTON STATE BEACH

We occasionally buy a frozen pound of commercially harvested Pacific Razor Clams from a seafood store or supermarket. Fried in hot oil, they are the taste of the seashore brought home. I’ve eaten all sorts of clams–-steamers, quahog, soft-shell, Manilla, geoduck, horse, and cockles–-but to me the best flavor of all is the Razor Clam. We add a light coating of flour and fry them in hot oil at a near-smoking temperature for one minute. The taste is delicate and sweet.

I had always wanted to go to a beach where razor clams were being harvested, and in the winter of 2025 we twice had a chance to be out on the sandy Pacific Ocean beaches of Washington State during the legal days for harvesting, which are established by the state Department of Fish and Wildlife. On the first trip we were observers at Copalis Beach and my wife was extremely jealous of all the clammers, but on the second trip, to Mocrocks Beach, we had the proper equipment and licenses to get our own hands sandy.

Image
Short time exposure of recreational Razor Clam harvesters at low tide on Copalis Beach.

Pacific Razor Clams live in the sand, and a hint of their presence occurs at low tide, when they leave a subtle dimple or low volcano-shaped mound in the sand. It takes a practiced eye to see the tell, but we were able to figure it with a bit of help from kind people on the beach who were willing to share their knowledge.

Razor Clams can dig fast, so clammers have to dig faster. The traditional way to do this was with a clam shovel, which has a narrow blade that is longer than it is wide. This requires practice, like everything worth doing, but we observed some experts handily getting their limits with this tool. The more common implement is a clam gun. Despite the name, the clam gun has no bullets or powder. Instead, it is a simple metal tube about five inches in diameter and 12 to 18” long, with a handle that makes it up to about 36” tall overall. The clammer finds a tell, then places the tube over the clam trace and quickly wiggles and wriggles it into the sand as far as it will go. Then, the clammer uses a finger to cover a small vent hole in the handle-–to create a vacuum—and pulls up the column of sand. He or she then moves the gun away from the dug hole, releases the finger, and allows the sand to fall out–-hopefully with a clam inside. Since the clams go deep, often the clammer needs to dig into the previously made hole a second or third time to reach the clam and is not always successful.

Image
Razor Clam harvesting using clam gun that is wiggled into the sand, then pulled out.
Image
Razor Clam brought up from where it was buried using a clam gun.
Image
A Razor Clam of typical size; we found that four per person is a good portion for dinner.

As of this writing, I am 74 years old and I found that work with the clam gun was exhausting, but fun to try and gratifying when a clam comes out of the sand. On the other hand, my back still hurts a week later. I was warned by the old guys 55 years ago to “lift with your legs, not with your back..” Did I listen?

The Department of Fish and Wildlife knows that the Razor Clam population is limited and demand is high, so they set up only a few days each year for digging. These are timed for exceptionally low tides, sometimes in the dark. Each clammer must buy a shellfish license, and the harvest is limited to 15 clams per day, and the license holder must keep each clam they find, even those broken or small.

Image
Recreational Razor Clam harvesters generally keep their catch in a mesh bag like this.

The state has another responsibility, and that’s in keeping the clammers safe from shellfish poisoning. Razor Clams can ingest toxic forms of algae that can cause Paralytic Shellfish Poisoning (PSP) or Amnesic Shellfish Poisoning (ASP) or Diarrhetic Shellfish Poisoning (DSP). All are serious illnesses, and the State of Washington tests regularly for these toxins. They occur during times of algae blooms, and cannot be detected by taste. Because the clams are filter feeders that remove algae from the water, they can pick up enough toxins to make people sick. Fortunately the issue is rare, but it does occur.

Being on the beach was great fun, with lots of families sharing the pleasure of gathering food from the wild. For the children digging for the first time, it was a memorable experience, far from screens and in the healthy land of salt air and exotic creatures. For us, it was gratifying to finally see what the passion for clamming is all about: being out on a wild beach in the salt air, and digging a wild food that is unbelievably good. These are the kinds of hours that create the high points of our lives.

Image
Parents teaching their children the sport of Razor Clam digging.
Image
Father and daughter harvesting Razor Clams using a clam gun on Copalis Beach.
Image
Driving on Copalis Beach at low tide during a Pacific Razor Clam harvest day. Driving on the sand beach is a Washington pastime in itself, and vehicles are required to stay on the upper beach so that clams are not harmed.
Image
Harvested Pacific Razor Clam at sunset on Mocrocks Beach.
Image
Karen Rentz using a clam gun for harvesting Razor Clams on Mocrocks Beach.

Viewed on the sand beach while digging for Pacific Razor Clams.

Image
Some of the 25 Pacific Razor Clams we dug before our bodies gave out and it got dark.
Image
The first step in preparing the clams is to gently remove sand from the shells and soft parts.
Image
The cleaned Razor Clams ready for removing the shells.
Image
The clams are next dropped in boiling water for ten seconds to release the shells.
Image
Then the clam bodies are cleaned, removing all parts except the muscle tissue.
Image
The cleaned clams are now ready for frying. We dry them, dip them in a wash of egg and milk, then dredge them in flour and seasoning. To fry them, we heat avocado oil to just below the smoking point, drop the clams into the oil, and fry them briefly until golden, only one to two minutes, flipping once during frying. Any longer than that, and the clams take on the toughness and texture of rubber bands. Cooked correctly, the flavor is sweet and mild.
Image
Father teaching his daughter how to harvest Razor Clams with a clam gun.
This is a wonderful family activity in a stunning setting.

Washington State’s Razor Clam season and regulations vary every year. This link shows details of the season for early 2025: Harvesting Razor Clams.

Lee H. Rentz is a photographer and writer based on the Olympic Peninsula of Washington State and in central Michigan. His lifetime of work can be viewed at leerentz.com

HAIR ICE: A Delightful Winter Phenomenon in America’s Pacific Northwest

On Washington State’s Olympic Peninsula, where my wife and I live, we have had a succession of beautiful days this winter, unusual in this land of winter rains. For nearly a week we enjoyed clear starry nights with below freezing temperatures, which generated heavy frost each morning. After sunrise the temperature warmed, melting most of the frost. These were perfect conditions for the formation of astoundingly beautiful hair ice, which we had only observed on one previous winter 11 years ago.

Image
Hair ice found on a fallen Red Alder branch, some strands sticking straight up, others curled down.

We live on a small lot along a lake, in a forest consisting mostly of Western Red Cedar, Douglas Fir, and Red Alder. After thinking that conditions were good for hair ice, we walked out on our land, discovering about 15 examples of this phenomenon. We found the tufts of clear ice, reminiscent of flowing and silky white hair, on fallen Red Alder branches that are slowly decaying. It is always located on branches where at least part of the bark has fallen off, with the branches ranging in size from about ¾” to 2” (2-5 cm.) in diameter. The ice always emerges from the exposed wood, and never from the bark.

I wrote a weblog post after seeing hair ice for the first time, which I have a link to below. After that post, a new scientific study was published in the scientific journal Biogeosciences in 2015 which answers some of the questions about how hair ice forms. The German and Swiss scientists D. Hofmann, G. Preuss, and C. Mätzler wrote “Evidence for Biological Shaping of Hair Ice” after creating experiments looking at possible mechanisms for its formation. Yes, it’s technical, but fascinating.

Image
The strands of hair ice curl together, retaining their integrity and not melting together because the decay fungus adds lignin and tannin–components of decaying wood–to the internal water that forms the ice. These components stop recrystallization.

Hair ice occurs on fallen dead branches of broadleaf trees (not conifers) in northern latitudes between 45° and 55°. I see it in Washington State, but it also occurs in the Scottish Highlands, Canada, Switzerland, Germany, Russia, and other countries within this geographic band. It is associated with wood decay in a variety of hardwood trees, including the Red Alder where I see it on the Olympic Peninsula. All of these trees share one characteristic: they are host to a decay fungus with the scientific name Exidiopsis effusa, which causes white rot in decaying wood. Without that winter-active fungus, hair ice does not form. Hair ice is NOT a form of frost; it results from a different process entirely.

Image
The same fallen Red Alder branch shown before and after hair ice formed; note that the part of the stick that is still covered with bark did not form hair ice. This is a typical amount of ice growth overnight.

For hair ice to form, the fallen branches hosting this fungus cannot be frozen solid by extreme winter temperatures, so hair ice occurs best under conditions where the branches can heat up during the day, but then encounter freezing temperatures again at night. Plus the air has to be humid and the branches have to contain water. These are specific conditions and necessary for the ice to form, so hair ice is relatively rare.

Hair ice is created when moisture in the wood’s tiny channels, known as rays, comes to the surface and freezes. The still liquid water inside the rays is drawn to the surface by capillary action, where it freezes, forcing the forming hair further out into the air. This phenomenon is known as ice segregation, which consists of a sandwich of ice, porous wood, and liquid water inside the wood. Each strand of ice hair occurs where the wood ray opens to the surface of the branch.

Ice segregation occurs with or without the fungus present, but hair ice only forms when the living fungus is present. When not present, the ice is simply a coating of ice on the fallen branch, with no intricate structure.

The scientists concluded that the role of the fungus in creating hair ice is mostly in adding chemicals from the decomposing wood, specifically lignin and tannin, to the water. This acts as a stabilizer that prevents the hairs of ice from quickly melting together. When scientists looked microscopically at the wood that forms hair ice, they found that the fungus had complex networks of mycelium winding through the wood cells and rays, so that the water rising to the surface was passing through the tangled hyphae. This close contact must be what causes the water to pick up the fragments of lignin and tannin that help retain the exquisite shape of the hair.

Image
The hairs of this formation look like they are emerging from bark, but they are actually coming out from exposed wood that is so densely covered with ice that it can’t be seen. The hairs are starting to melt as the day warms, with little beads of melting water along the hair strands.

We found that hair ice can form luxuriantly, with hair strands up to two inches (five cm.) long being created overnight–sometimes in just a few hours–then melting completely away as the day warms. Then, the next night, if temperatures dip below freezing, the hair ice returns on the same branch. This occurs repeatedly, and apparently can happen on the same fallen stick, when conditions are right, for a couple of years. If air temperatures fail to rise above freezing during the day, the hair ice does not melt away and can remain in place until the temperatures rise enough to melt it.

Fungi must produce mushrooms (called fruiting bodies) for reproduction. So what do the fruiting bodies of this fungus look like? We haven’t seen them, but apparently they occur as a whitish mass on the branches where the hair ice formed. We’ll be looking out for them on some of the branches on our land in the coming weeks as the season blends from winter into spring.

Image
Hair ice found on a fallen Red Alder branch, with an alder leaf to the right
Image
Thousands of hair ice fibers growing like hair and even developing a sheen like human hair
Image
Most hair ice forms on fallen branches, but this spiky hairstyle formed on a dead trunk still upright
Image
Swirls and curls of ice hair; I’m not sure why it covers only part of the branch
Image
Hair ice growing from just one biologically active strip of the branch
Image
Luxuriant hair ice, all from one cold night’s growth
Image
Hair ice shown in the forest habitat where it is found
Image
The bark in the foreground has separated from the wood; the hair ice is growing directly from bare wood
Image
Some hair ice has a well-defined part, much as I wore my hair decades ago when I still had hair
Image
This hair ice has just begun to melt; it looks a bit tangled like human hair that has been touched by a hot ember
Image
Sometimes the hair ice only grows from one portion of the fallen branch
Image
Wild style, bringing back the 80s in America
Image
Hair ice is an unexpected detail in the winter forest, rarely seen
Image
Hair ice grows in humid forests, where mosses also thrive

Further reading:

2015 Article in Biogeosciences Evidence for biological shaping of hair ice

Hair Ice” a blog entry by Dr. James R. Carter, Professor Emeritus, Geography-Geology Department, Illinois State University

Silk Frost: Strange Formations on the Olympic Peninsula This was my earlier weblog entry about hair ice.

Lee H. Rentz is a photographer based on Washington State’s Olympic Peninsula and in central Michigan. Contact him at [email protected] and check out his website at leerentz.com

FALLING SNOW: A Landscape Transformed

When I see snow falling, dissolving the landscape into a place entirely different, I am enthralled by the veiled look of the land. Every surface is softened and sounds are muffled and most people have retreated indoors. The familiar is transformed.

The pictures in this photographic essay were taken near my Michigan home, where I love to venture into the heaviest snow squalls, finding barns and forests transformed by the falling snow. I am fortunate to live near an Amish community, where their barns and buggies and homes are often featured in my winter photography. Enjoy the photographs, and find a new appreciation for winter.

Image
ENDURANCE: Amish sheep in a snowstorm
Image
Amish horse-drawn buggy traveling a road during a heavy April snowstorm in central Michigan, USA
Image
GIRL WITH PAIL: An Amish girl, perhaps four years old, carrying a pail into the barn (L) and TWO OLD FRIENDS: Men walking together in a snowstorm (R)
Image
DISSOLVING IN THE BLIZZARDS OF TIME: Red Pine forest in heavy snow
Image
HOLSTEINS IN BLIZZARD: Cattle on an Amish farm during a heavy winter snowstorm
Image
THE SOUL OF A NORTHERN WINTER: Amish barn reduced to simple planes and lines and surfaces
Image
SNOW SOFTLY FALLING (L) and WALKING HOME FROM SCHOOL IN A BLIZZARD (R) Amish children
Image
PAPER BIRCH IN FALLING SNOW: Photographed at night
Image
CHRISTMAS LIGHTS AND SNOWFLAKES: Photographed at my home
Image
CROSS COUNTRY
Image
WHITETAIL IN FALLING SNOW (L) AND LOG CABIN IN FALLING SNOW (R)
Image
FAMILY CARRIAGES IN A BARN
Image
LAUNDRY DAY: Even in the dead of winter Amish women dutifully hang the laundry outside to dry, and even during a snowstorm
Image
FEEDING THE HORSES: The responsibility for caring for livestock never ends, especially during a storm
Image
WINTER INTRICACY: Sugar Maple in a farm field
Image
BUGGY HEADING HOME (L) and CORN CRIB (R)
Image
HORSEDRAWN CART WITH DOGS
Image
FREEDOM FROM WORK: After their chores are done, Amish horses are free to be horses
Image
I TOOK THE ROAD LESS TRAVELED: Heavy snowstorm on a rural road in central Michigan
Image
FALLING SNOW: A short time exposure in which the snow appears as streaks

My work is featured on my website: leerentz.com. You can order a print from the website, or contact me at [email protected] if you have any questions.

THE GRACE OF JELLYFISH

My first encounter with jellyfish was at the Monterey Bay Aquarium about 25 years ago. In a special chamber, orange jellies pulsed rhythmically against an electric blue background. It was mesmerizing, and I had never been so enthralled with an animal exhibit. I never forgot the experience, and the stunning pictures I took were a vivid reminder of the wonders of nature. The masses of jellyfish at the aquarium were Sea Nettles, and when I returned to Monterey some 20 years later, this exhibit was still my favorite.

In the last few years I have started photographing underwater creatures in the wild, sometimes using an underwater housing for my camera and sometimes photographing from above the water on marina docks or in rocky tide pools. In these pursuits, once again a favorite subject is jellyfish, of which Iʻve seen and photographed perhaps half-a-dozen species.

My most recent experience was at the Westport Marina, a large marina in Grays Harbor along the Washington State coast. This marina has commercial and charter fishing vessels that venture out on the Pacific Ocean, where tuna, salmon, halibut, and lingcod are taken. Charter boats filled with birders motor 30 nautical miles out to the edge of the continental shelf to see seabirds that never come closer to shore. From the docks, families lower baited crab traps to the bottom, catching Dungeness Crabs to take home. California Sea Lions provide a barking soundtrack for the marina and the smell of saltwater is rich in the air. It is a place that celebrates the sea.

I took these pictures on one day in August, 2024. We went to Westport to see animal life clinging to the docks, with the plan to photograph starfish and crabs and nudibranchs and other creatures. When we laid down on the docks and examined the life there, it was interesting, but there was too much movement from wind and waves to make photography possible. For those closeups I need little to no movement or the pictures come out blurry. Instead, we noticed that there were numerous Sea Nettles pulsing in the marina, so I decided to concentrate on photographing those. In fact, there were thousands of these jellyfish scattered throughout the marina, so finding them was not a challenge.

The pictures here represent my favorites of the roughly 250 photographs I took that day, with the videos created by my spouse, Karen Rentz.

Image
Pacific Sea Nettle, Chrysaora fuscenscens, with a cloudy sky reflected on the water.
Sea Nettle pulsing through cloud reflections, showing the grace of its movement. Video by Karen Rentz
Image
Pacific Sea Nettles eat zooplankton and small fish. The thin tentacles have stinging barbs that zap the prey.

Image
A group of Pacific Sea Nettles that probably were moved close together by wind. Populations of this species have recently exploded over the Oregon and Washington coasts. Scientists theorize that the increase might be because of a decrease in predators (fish, sea turtles, and seabirds) or because of some changes due to seawater warming because of climate change.
Image
Pacific Sea Nettle photographed underwater using a probe lens, which is waterproof to about 10.” It is shown up against a dock, which is covered with marine plants and animals. The term for this luxuriant growth is dock fouling; marina operators might not like the freeloaders, but it is a wonderful environment for photographers and budding marine biologists.
Image
Another underwater view of the Pacific Sea Nettle next to the dock. There are also California Mussels attached to the dock, their shells slightly open so they can be filter-feeding plankton from the seawater.
My voice saying “Oh, natureʻs wonderful.” Video by Karen Rentz
Image
An underwater closeup of the three parts of the jellyfish: the bell, which pulses rhythmically to move the animal through the water; the tentacles, which float widely from the bell to sting prey with specialized cells called nematocysts; and ruffled parts known as oral arms, whose purpose is to move food from the tentacles to the mouth, which is located under the bell.
Image
Pacific Sea Nettles can drift with ocean currents and waves, but they also can move by the jet propulsion created by the pulsating bell. Watching this movement is mesmerizing.
The bell moves with mesmerizing grace through the sea. Video by Karen Rentz
Image
Pacific Sea Nettles are amazing creatures, able to thrive despite lack of a brain, heart, or nervous system.
Image
While watching the Sea Nettles, a much larger Lionʻs Mane Jellyfish, Cyanea capillata, came into view, dragging two Sea Nettles that it had captured and was starting to eat. In the foreground is a Pacific Sea Nettle which might still be able to get away. I assume that the Sea Nettles can sense danger even though they donʻt have a brain telling them to be very, very afraid. For size comparison, this Pacific Sea Nettle is about six inches across, while the Lionʻs Mane is about 24 inches across the bell. Both can sting, but the Sea Nettle sting is supposed to be minor; when I was stung by a Lionʻs Mane, it felt like a wasp had stung me. I read that when a swimmer encounters a Lionʻs Mane up close and personal, the initial stinging effect is of a warm sensation over the swimmerʻs body, followed by a feeling of effervescence–followed later by pain. I donʻt think Iʻll ever go swimming with these jellyfish!
Image
As the Pacific Sea Nettleʻs bell pulses, it creates little waves. This Nettle is about six inches across, but they can be up to about 30 inches across, with tentacles extending 15 feet long. The Lionʻs Mane Jellyfish, in contrast, can grow to about 7 feet across, with tentacles extending up to 120 feet–making it the longest animal on earth.
Image
Pacific Sea Nettle creating waves as it moves. I love seeing these creatures, such beautiful animals that still seem wonderfully exotic to me: a man who grew up far from the ocean and all its extravagant forms of life.
The rhythmic contractions of the bell propel the jelly through the water. This species has been observed following prey and swimming 3,600 vertical feet in the ocean in one night! Video by Karen Rentz

NIGHTS OF THE SPRING PEEPERS

Image
Spring Peeper, Pseudacris crucifer, male peeping during spring mating season

Spring is nature’s most joyous time to be a naturalist in northern latitudes as the world awakens from its long winter sleep. Near our Michigan home, Amish farmers are out in early March, when they begin to collect Sugar Maple sap from the awakening trees, and they use horse-drawn plows to prepare the earth for planting. Wave after wave of birds arrive from the southland, from Sandhill Cranes to Baltimore Orioles and hundreds more. The land awakens with spring wildflowers before the trees leaf out. The first insects appear, including Mourning Cloak butterflies that have overwintered under bark or leaves, and the Common Green Darner that has migrated up from the south. These are all great stories for a naturalist, but there is also a chorus that, to me, signifies that spring is here.

Video of Spring Peeper calling next to the pond

When night time air temperature rises into the range of about 35 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit, each little pool in the forest comes alive with the songs of Northern Spring Peepers. These tiny chorus frogs, each about the size of a thumbnail, peep together around the shores of a permanent or temporary pond–one that has no fish as predators. These are all male frogs trying fervently to attract mates. The calls begin shortly after sunset and end in the early morning hours, before the first traces of dawn light bring predators in the form of birds to the ponds.

Where I live in the middle of Michigan’s mitten, there are numerous little glacial kettle ponds, left as chunks of ice by the last ice age. When the ice melted, it left a depression filled with water, with high banks surrounding the new pond. These ponds are too small to support fish but are just right for Midland Painted Turtles, Common Eastern Toads, and Northern Spring Peepers. I set out on two nights to figure out how to see and photograph the peepers and I chose a pond that I could have easy access to. On the first night, the peepers were calling loudly when my nephew and I slip-slided down the steep hill leading down to the kettle lake. The frogs heard us coming and immediately became deathly quiet. We patiently waited without moving, and the peeps gradually slipped from stealth mode and awakened the heavens again with joyous noise. I spent a long time looking for the source of the calls, and finally found one little peeper calling from under the overhang of a fallen oak leaf right next to the pond. I was only able to get one photograph with a macro lens, a large bulky lens next to these tiny creatures. It was the opposite of stealth.

The setting: a small glacial kettle pond in the forest

Two nights later, I returned to the same pond, this time with my wife, Karen, and with the plan of using a snout wide-angle macro lens, which is about 18” long and only 5/8” in diameter at the lens end, which meant my face could be farther away from the peepers and I could approach them with stealth and cunning, or at least my version of stealth and cunning, which is usually clumsy and loud. 

We were quieter in approaching the pond than on my previous expedition, so the peeps barely interrupted their chorus of desire upon our approach, despite our use of bright flashlights. I showed Karen where I expected to see the frogs based upon my previous night’s work, but that proved to be fruitless, or frogless. In searching around a patch of shoreline where a peeper was loudly calling, we just couldn’t find it on the forest floor. But then I happened to see movement about 18” off the ground, and it was a Spring Peeper calling while clinging to the dry stalk of a wild perennial left over from last fall. Its little vocal sac was expanding with each call–so incredibly exciting to see in real life!

Image
Spring Peeper male calling using air sac at throat [photo shows how sac expands]
Image
Spring Peeper male vocalizing from its perch on an oak leaf

So I set up my snout lens on a tripod and approached to within about an inch of the calling frog. Meanwhile, Karen used a dive light–a powerful LED flashlight meant for deep dives in the ocean–to light the frog. Somehow, it didn’t mind the light too much and I was able to get hundreds of close-up photographs and videos of this frog and two of its nearby rivals in some of the most exciting hours I’ve ever spent (and, yes, I am truly a boring person). If you ever have the chance to experience the sounds of Spring Peepers while standing among them, don’t miss the opportunity!

MORE DETAILS ABOUT THE LIVES OF SPRING PEEPERS 

The Spring Peepers calling in a chorus around a pond are all males, trying desperately to attract mates. Presumably the biggest and loudest male wins the wooing contest, allowing them to mate with the quiet and choosy females. After mating, the female lays eggs in the little pond. Tadpoles are the hoped-for result, and the cycle of life continues.

Spring Peepers are the color of leaf litter on the forest floor: tan or brown or green. Hence they can remain disguised. The second word of their scientific name, Pseudacris crucifer, refers to the large dark cross on the back of each frog. I believe this is part of the camouflage, which breaks up the otherwise uniform color and looks like the veins of a leaf.

Image
A Spring Peeper looks a bit like a dried leaf on the forest floor; the cross marking on the back and other markings on the legs break up the color, making it look more like fallen leaves

These are tiny creatures. In fact, were you so inclined, you could mail seven of them in a one ounce first-class mail envelope, though the USPS and peeps wouldn’t be very happy.

Image
Spring Peepers are tiny in comparison with the loudness of their group

Peepers go into suspended animation all winter, spending the long, cold months hiding behind a flap of bark on a tree or under a fallen log or under the leaf litter on the ground. Their bodies can survive freezing down to about a 17 degree Fahrenheit body temperature because of glucose and other chemicals in the blood that act as antifreeze.

Image
To get these pictures, I used a long Laowa Macro Probe lens with a strong dive light

To make their calls, the males take air into their lungs, then close off their nostrils and mouths. As air is forced from the lungs by muscles, it passes over vocal cords and into the inflated air sac, creating the sound variously described as peeping, chirping, or sleigh bells. The sound is loud enough to prevent sleeping for some people, and is a shimmering shower of sound when it surrounds us next to a pond.

Image
The slightly bulbous toe pads are designed to stick to wet or dry vegetation to facilitate climbing
Image
Just to the right of this calling Peeper is the warty leg of a much larger Eastern American Toad

A typical male peeper can make up to 13,500 calls per night, though I didn’t do the math and am depending upon scientists for this factoid.

And the most astounding fact of all: a group of Spring Peepers around a pond is referred to an an “army.” A noisy and tiny army, but an army nonetheless.

Video of the calling Spring Peeper right next to the Toad

The photographs below include other inhabitants of this pond: an Eastern American Toad showing off the gold flecks in his eye; Midland Painted Turtles basking on logs; a few more Spring Peepers; and a view of tree reflections on part of the pond. Click on each to make it larger.

FANTASYLAND OF ICE AT PICTURED ROCKS

Each winter temporary ice formations form along the orange sandstone cliffs of Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. Wherever a tiny stream cascades over a cliff, or where water oozes through porous stone, ice forms upon hitting the frigid temperatures of a Lake Superior winter. These formations are reliable enough to have descriptive names given by the ice climbers who return each winter to test their skills on the frozen columns.

I have photographed the formations over several winters, but the winter of 2023 was my favorite because Karen (my wife) and I experimented with backlighting the ice at twilight and at night to give a sense of the color and translucency of the beautiful formations. I find the natural artistry of the ice as stunning as the sandstone formations of the Utah desert, but these are ephemeral and have to recreate themselves each winter. What an experience!

Image
Ice climbing on Curtains at sunse
Image
Karen Rentz at Amphitheater ice formation, with ice daggers overhead
Image
Amphitheater ice formation
Image
Details of ice formations in Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore
Image
Curtains ice formation lighted by us at night
Image
Curtains ice formation at the end of a winter day
Image
Two views of naturally sculpted ice behind the Curtains
Image
Behind the Curtains ice formation, lit by the photographer’s lights and by the twilight outside
Image
Ice Daggers of the Amphitheater formation
Image
Curtains ice formation lighted at night
Image
Ice climbing on Curtains; note the ice tools, rope, helmet, and crampons
Image
Northern White Cedar twigs encased in ice in the Curtains ice formation
Image
Behind the Curtains ice formation with blue twilight coloring the translucent ice
Image
Details of Curtains ice formation lighted at night; the round bubble-like shapes are created by water drops melting from the ice column above
Image
Late afternoon light on the Amphitheater ice formation
Image
Sculptural details of the Curtains ice formation lighted at night
Image
Karen Rentz at Amphitheater ice formation: the ice columns emerge from seeps in the sandstone
Image
Karen Rentz exploring behind the Curtains ice formation
Image
Behind the Curtains ice formation, the translucent ice is reminiscent of a bridal veil
Image
Front view of Amphitheater ice formation named for the shape of the alcove in the cliffs
Image
Details of Curtains ice formation; note how the ice takes different shapes
Image
Details of Curtains ice formation lighted at night
Image
Amphitheater ice formation used by ice climbers in Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore
Image
Icicle details of the Curtains ice formation
Image
Dagger icicle details of the Amphitheater ice formation

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore is located along Lake Superior in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. Its namesake cliffs are miles long and make for great adventures all year, whether kayaking, backpacking, day hiking, snowmobiling, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, or taking a guided cruise past the cliffs at sunset.

When we go in winter, we wear Kahtoola MICROspikes when navigating sheer ice at the ice formations, and we watched many people trying to stay upright when they walked in regular snow boots. Wear them! We also take snowshoes in case there has been a fresh snowfall and the trails are buried in deep fluff, though the short trails from Sand Point Road are often packed down by climbers. We also take cross-country skis to use on the nearby groomed trails. When venturing out in winter, we always wear insulated boots, and dress in layers of merino wool long underwear, waterproof snow/rain pants, and down, fleece, and a Gore-Tex shell. Mittens are essential, and chemical handwarmers can help when it’s really cold out. Take high energy snacks. To us, navigating winter is far more rewarding than enduring the bugs of early summer in the Upper Peninsula; just be prepared.

Important information about Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore:

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore information

Sand Point Ice Climbing and Viewing Map

Munising in Winter

A DAY AMONG THE AMISH

Image
Loading freshly cut blocks of ice onto a horse-drawn sleigh at an Amish farm

Today was a gift from the universe.

I had an instinct that today (4 February 2023) could be the day when Amish farmers cut ice from their ponds to fill their icehouses after the cold snap of the last week, a warming weather trend ahead, and tomorrow the sabbath. We drove out into the Amish community this morning, and almost immediately saw a freight wagon loaded with ice. We drove on, and found another farm where wagons were lined up in front of a pond, where men wearing straw hats were cutting ice.

We parked at a respectful distance, watching and discretely photographing for about an hour. Then an Amish man came walking up to where we were parked along the road. He was a young man and kindly asked if we had ever seen Amish ice cutting before. We said “only at a distance,” and he invited us to come down closer to see it. I asked if it was okay if I took pictures, and he said “Yes. Just not too close.”

So we went down near to where ten men and teen boys worked as a team to cut the ice with a gas-powered circular saw and load six sleighs and wagons, each drawn by two draft horses. Assorted young boys all wearing matching dark knit hats and a dog completed the perfect rural scene.

We got to talking with the young man and his little brother, and he invited us to have a meal with them. So we sat down for a noontime dinner with the father, mother, 11 of their 13 children, and a couple of young men from a nearby farm. After a hearty meal, they went back to ice cutting and me to my pictures. Magic happens.

As I said, a gift from the universe to two shy people.

Image
Amish men cutting and moving floating blocks of ice to conveyor lift
Image
Cutting ice with a large circular saw blade


Notes from our conversations with an Amish family:

Since most English (the word used by the Amish for non-Amish people like us) know little about the Amish, I will tell you about our discussions with this kind and generous family.  My wife Karen and I talked to the farmer and his wife, as well as with some of their sons, both before and during the meal, learning a bit about their lives. They have 13 children, of whom 11 still live at home. The other two are the older adult children, both married, with the son living on a small farm in an Amish community in Illinois and the daughter at a farm nearby. The children were spaced quite regularly in age, with the youngest son being two. Of their children, nine were boys and four girls. The eldest daughter still living at home now teaches at an Amish one-room schoolhouse eight miles from their house.

The Amish have not been here for as long as they’ve been in Pennsylvania. My parents moved to the area in 1980, when they built the house that we now own. A couple of years after they moved in, one of their friends said that Amish were starting to buy up the surrounding farms, and that the land was about to blossom with new activity and a flourishing of crops. The farmer in my story moved here when he was a boy, in that first wave of Amish. He said that the price of the land was good. The families here have done well, with what appear to be prosperous and beautiful farms.

Image
Amish men moving floating blocks of ice to conveyor belt lift
Image
Using ice tongs to move blocks onto sleigh
Image
A full load heading to the icehouse

The family has an extensive summer garden, where last year they planted and harvested over five acres of pumpkins and winter squash. Some of their crops are sold at a local open-air produce auction, which we’ve driven past at times when it wasn’t open. It is like a farmer’s market, open only prescribed days each month. At this time of year firewood and hay are for sale, but in summer and fall there would be a wonderful variety of produce and flowers. I remember last year seeing a horse-drawn farm wagon with clear plastic sheeting forming a greenhouse structure over the wagon. Inside there were colorful hanging baskets of flowers protected from wind by the plastic.  I think the flowers were headed to the farm auction. Here is an article about this particular auction facility: Stanwood Produce Auction

The young man who initially invited us down to see the ice cutting is 18 years old, friendly, and personable. He talked about the economics of the farm. They have a sawmill, as many of the local Amish farmers do, where loggers bring loads of softwood logs. The farmer brings the logs one by one into the mill, where they are sawn into 2×4’s and other dimensional lumber that is sold to a pallet maker south of Grand Rapids; that factory is perhaps 80 miles away, so the wood has to be transported by truck to the buyer. I’m sure the sawmill is a major source of income for the family. I mentioned that there has been a great increase in the number of Amish farms in our area with sawmills and wondered about the competition. The father said that so far it wasn’t a problem, that there was enough demand and that some of the sawmills were for softwood and others for hardwood. I think they also have a maple sugaring operation, as do many of the local families.

Image
Loading blocks of ice onto a freight wagon to take down the road to another farm
Image
Stopping to chat

The farmer would also grow corn and hay for feeding the livestock. In early spring he would use a horse-drawn plow (on local farms we’ve seen up to six draft horses pulling a plow!). Horses would also be used in the harvest of hay, with freight wagons piled incredibly high with freshly dried hay.

The farm has ten cows for milking, which has to be done twice each day. In fact, the purpose of this family’s ice harvesting is to build a store of ice that can be used the rest of the year to keep the milk cold. The milk is sold to nearby people who come by once a week to pick up a gallon as part of a farm share program.

We asked the son if Amish had to get jobs to make ends meet. He said that in the last few years the economics of farming alone don’t work, so it is common to have to get a job outside the community. In the local Amish community, all the farms have a small business of some sort: making rustic furniture, creating poly-wood furniture, repairing clocks, caning chairs, butchering cows, making rugs, selling eggs, making boat covers, and probably a dozen more crafts that bring in money.

Image
The day looked like fun for all involved, especially the young boys looking on

On our visit there were two families working together to cut ice to fill two icehouses. The patriarch of the host farm operated the gasoline-powered circular saw used to cut the ice. This year the ice was only about six inches thick; more commonly it has been eight or up to twelve inches thick, so it would be harder to heft those blocks. The ice cutting machine is homemade, with a long lever used to raise and lower the spinning blade. He cut the pond ice almost all the way through, stopping about 1/2” short of cutting through. Then another man used a long steel pole to break off the blocks. A heavy rope stretched across the pond was used by two workers to move the floating blocks of ice to where the loading conveyor belt was located at one end of the pond. Then the men used pitchforks to prod the blocks onto the conveyer, which is also their hay lifter, powered by a gasoline motor. The Amish use some modern assistance when they deem it appropriate.

The family that owns the ice pond uses horse-drawn sleighs to transport blocks of ice to their icehouse, while young men from the farm down the road used horse-drawn freight wagons. We counted a total of six sleighs and wagons, each pulled by a team of two massive draft horses. They took turns at the conveyor machine that was lifting ice from the pond. Once one vehicle was filled with a layer of ice, the driver would quickly move it away. Another was already lined up to move into position, with the driver sometimes using the team of horses to back up the wagon to the loading chute. Managing horses to back up this way is an incredible skill and they do far better than I do trying to back up a trailer with a car! Most of the sleighs and wagons were drawn by two Belgian horses, the predominant breed in our area, which are usually chestnut-colored with blond manes. A few of the wagons were drawn by black Percheron horses. We were told that the white horse in one team was actually a Percheron, born black and then it had turned pure white.

Image
The massive Belgian horses make great teams for hauling ice and plowing land

One young boy named Neil enjoyed talking to us and telling us about his life on the farm. He asked if we had a farm, and we had to answer no, but that it looked like a lot of fun to live on a farm. He was in the fourth grade at school; I asked him what his favorite subject was and after thinking for a moment, he said “reading.” He said they were reading a book by Laura Ingalls Wilder called “Little House in the Big Woods.” He said that sometimes the teacher reads and that the children also take turns reading. He said that another grade level reads “Farmer Boy,” another Wilder book that I told him I had read as a boy. It has been many years since I read it, but I remembered that I first learned about tapping maple trees from that book. I needed a refresher about the story, so here is what Wikipedia says about Farmer Boy: 

“The novel is based on the childhood of Wilder’s husband, Almanzo Wilder, who grew up in the 1860s near the town of Malone, New York. It covers roughly one year of his life, beginning just before his ninth birthday and describes a full year of farming. It describes in detail the endless chores involved in running the Wilder family farm, all without powered vehicles or electricity. Young as he is, Almanzo rises before 5 am every day to milk cows and feed stock. In the growing season, he plants and tends crops; in winter, he hauls logs, helps fill the ice house, trains a team of young oxen, and sometimes — when his father can spare him — goes to school.” 

This sounds exactly like the life of young Neil: no wonder he loves the Laura Ingalls Wilder books!

I asked Neil if he milks the ten cows, and he said he was still too little for that, but that he feeds their five calves and many chickens each day. He also collects the eggs daily from two chicken coups. I asked him how many eggs: he was unsure of the numbers, but maybe 30-50 from each coup (he said the total was never 100). He pointed out the pony they had gotten and was very fond of it. We asked if they name their animals and he said “no” and he laughed; that seemed like a strange idea to him. He was really glad that this year ice cutting was on a Saturday when he wouldn’t be at school, so he could watch and be part of it. He recalled when they had a backhoe come in to dig the large bowl-shaped pond for the ice.  Later we saw him riding on an ice sleigh, and it looked like it would be a day of heaven for a ten year old! Neil has an infectious smile and enjoyed telling us about his life.

Image
With six sleighs and wagons, there was always a wait to get to the loading area
Image
This scene could have been from 150 years ago

My dear readers, you must be wondering what it’s like to be inside an Amish house; I know we have been curious for years. We finally got our chance when we were invited in for noon dinner. We drove into their driveway and were shy about knocking on the door, in case the Amish wife hadn’t been told of our arrival. After a moment, she appeared at the door with a small son and I walked up to say hello. She said “Will you be joining us for dinner?” So of course I said “yes.”

We went inside, and she escorted us from the entry room, through the dining room/kitchen, to the living room. The living room had a wood-burning stove and the dining table/kitchen area was warmed by the cook stove. The openings between the rooms were large, giving the feel of one big room and also helping to provide even heat to the first floor. We believe that the large room is also used for community church services, but on some farms they use the barn instead of the house. The Amish don’t have a church to go to; instead, they take turns holding services for the nearby community. Every two weeks the community holds Sunday services; each farm hosts for two Sundays, then they rotate to another farm. This family was going to host church services at their home the next day. We have seen Sundays when a farmyard is filled with buggies, perhaps 20 to 30 at a time. Recently we saw children walking home from church, the girls in their black woolen coats, white aprons, and black bonnets, and the boys dressed formally as well.

Image
The Amish house where we had our noontime dinner is in the distance

There is no electricity in an Amish home, so natural light during the day and oil or gas lamps at night are the sources of illumination. No televisions or computers, of course. And no plush furniture. Around the perimeter of the living room were wooden rocking chairs, which is where Karen and I sat while waiting for the meal. The youngest boys sat lined up on rocking chairs along one wall, reading long hand-written letters. I didn’t ask who the letters were from, but I could imagine that they could be from the family of their brother who had moved to Illinois and other distant relatives. And, unlike most English children today, they had no problem reading the letters written neatly in cursive!

The house was a comfortable temperature. The lady of the house said she is fortunate that her husband has a sawmill, because there is always plenty of wood to keep their home warm. They cooked on a huge old cast iron wood-burning stove, which also helped heat the house. 

There were no family portraits or pictures on the walls, since the Amish don’t wish to have recognizable pictures of themselves, instead believing that humility is to be honored, and individuality and pride are harmful to the community. They follow the Biblical commandment “Though shalt not make unto thyself a graven image.” I took pictures after getting permission from one man and nobody seemed to object, but I was careful to photograph the activity and not the individual. No portraits.

After a few minutes, the Amish wife told us it was time for the meal and indicated two places where we could sit. As you might imagine from the size of the family, the long rectangular table was huge; I think there were 13 of us sitting around it, with the father at the head of the table. Three daughters remained in the kitchen and served the food. When everyone was seated, the Amish father bowed his head; everyone took his cue and bowed their heads as well and all thought a silent prayer for about a minute. Following that, bowls of food were passed.

Dinner was hearty; after all, the men working outside had been cutting and hauling ice, hitching and unhitching teams of huge horses, and lifting heavy blocks of ice into and out of wagons. They were hungry! There were two sets of bowls serving each of the foods because the table was so large. The young men took huge helpings of mashed potatoes and gravy. The meat entree was excellent meatballs and sauce (Karen had to poke me for initially trying to take three meatballs when she noticed that everyone else took two!). There was a bowl of mixed vegetables, a smaller bowl of cabbage salad, and a plate of sliced cheese. After everyone had their fill, two desserts were passed: a chocolate pudding pie and an apple dish that might have been apple crisp. The oldest daughter was the baker.

The young Amish men were curious about our Washington license plates, and we told them we live there most of the year. They asked about Washington state and had heard that part of the state got considerable rain. They wondered why rain and not snow, since it was about the same latitude as Michigan and they seemed to understand when we explained how the influence of the warmer ocean moderates the temperature.

The family enjoyed hearing our story from several years ago of driving an icy road and coming upon a wagon loaded with ice blocks off the road in a ditch. I stopped and asked if I could help. The young man asked me how many horse power I had under the hood of my Subaru and we all laughed. They had another team of horses on the way to help.

They wanted to know where we lived locally and what we did during the day, though what we do is less interesting than what they do! We were at a bit of a loss as to what to say we do, as it didn’t seem appropriate to tell them how much time we spend with our computers or watching television. We asked a lot of questions about their lives and they were pleased to answer. Nice people. I noticed that the school-age children said virtually nothing during the meal (perhaps something about being seen and not heard!). They also all noisily completely cleaned their plates with the sharp sound of silverware striking china. No food was wasted.

After dinner, all bowed their heads again to thank God for the meal. Then everyone disappeared to complete their ice cutting tasks, with the women and girls staying inside to clean up after the meal. In Amish life the roles of men and women are well defined and traditional.

The men had to gather up the horses, who had also been given a break from the harness to feed on hay in the barn, so they all had to be reattached to their sleighs and wagons. We said our thank-yous and goodbyes, pulled on our boots, and went back to our car. I took a few more pictures–actually, the best of the day–and we took our leave. It was an extraordinary experience for us, and it felt like the family enjoyed talking with us, letting us into each other’s lives for a few hours. I bow my head in grace for the time we spent among the Amish.

Image
A day’s work well done, with all enjoying the experience

This article was completed with the kind help of my wife Karen, who contributed immensely to the memories, writing, and editing. To see many of the photographs I’ve taken over a lifetime, go to leerentz.com