Silhouette Patterns Sak's Slim Knit Pant #3426 (and wrap I'll probably never make)

 This will be garment #2 in the Endless Combinations contest on Pattern Review.  I have one pair done, and it's currently in the washer/dryer, unhemmed.  Sewing with knits sometimes distorts them, so I decided to wash again before the final hemming.  Plus I need to double check the fit and see if I need to make any more changes.  I have enough of the exact same ponte knit to make a 2nd pair.

https://silhouettepatterns.com/Saks-Slim-Knit-Pant-and-Wrap-Pattern_p_4392.html

I started with a size 14 based on final hip measurements.  Please note, this is a very skinny legged pant, compared the the regular yoga pants pattern.  I tried comparing, and it compares closest to the size 8 I make in the yoga pants.

As far as alterations go, I took a tuck under the belly and also at the back hip to remove some bunchiness in the back, then the tuck in the upper leg.  Since I kept pinning out and pinning out some more at the crotch, I also removed that from the pattern.  I will contemplate straightening the front pattern piece at the CF and adding the extra to the side seam, that alteration seems logical to me.

I also made the leg the largest width, the size 18 because my calves are larger and also my front thighs.  If I want smooth slacks, they have to be wider legged and woven with good drape.

This pattern is really high in the Center Back.

And instead of the curved waistband and side zipper, I just added a regular yoga pant waistband.  My waist isn't curvy enough to need that extra shaping, but it would be great for a smaller waist, and could also be added to the regular yoga pants I'd think.

Here you can see how long the back seam is.  I had issues with the extra fabric in the crotch.

Here the pattern is reshaped after taking the tucks, which interestingly enough is a lot of what I had pinned out in the muslin.

Trust me, trying this on was quite dangerous and I had the scratches on my thighs to prove it.

Here you can see how the front curve changed with the tuck under the belly.  I think I can remove it from the CF and add it to the side seam.

Silhouette Patterns Betsy's Jacket #1600

Done and dusted and even worn today, though it got warmer than necessary for a jacket.

Here are the final photos.  One thing I can see is that on the back I can do a little more fitting as I see a few "folds" that really aren't necessary.  I'd have to take a closer look at the pattern to see what the issue is.

So here are photos of the front and the back.  I've also included the lining and a close up of the jump portion that I followed from Pinterest.  And the pattern matching is pretty darn close throughout also, so a close up of that zipper and being lined up, the facing side lines up too....just trust me.

Jacket Process

Truth be told, I have finished the jacket and it's really nice.  But in this post I'll show a few photos of the process.  I haven't done any "real" photos yet of me wearing it as that takes putting on real clothes, doing my hair and wearing make up too.

I did interface the entire jacket.  Here is the shawl collar being attacked to a sort of collar stand.  I need to make a note on the pattern to enlarge the outer/top collar edge a bit to help with the "turn of the collar."  Lots of good pressing, using the clapper is really helpful and easy with wool.  

Here you can see all the seams, and there are a ton.  The shawl collar is sewn to the collar stand which is then sewn to the jacket fronts, raglan sleeve, side backs and center backs.  Once again, lots of steam and lots of pressing.

A quick try on in my messy sewing room.  I can see it's looking pretty good.

I want less seams in my lining, so I joined the Center back and side backs together, just overlapped the 3/8" seam  allowance and put it on the fold.  Don't forget the lining is cut at the length of the finished jacket if you plan on bagging it, same with the sleeves.

Here I was super smart.  I have the zipper basted in properly on one side only, ready to be top-stitched.  But the other side is only basted down on the main fabric.  I am using that opening to do my jacket bagging technique.  Seriously, it just came to me as I was working on it, and I feel like I created a super smart technique, since you now have lots of working space on the inside of the jacket.

Since I have that wonderful space, I am now hand hemming the inside of the jacket so there is no chance of sagging and bagging.  It turned out great.  I always have to follow tutorials off of Pinterest to remember how to do a nice lining join.  I forgot to take photos of that, I might write it out some time in the future.

That's it for now, the jacket IS done.  I'll post photos and the PatternReview review in the near future.  I've started already on my second item for the challenge and it involves pants fitting, never a fun chore.

So how many years now?

Oh yes, so it's been awhile.  I pop into PatternReview occasionally, and recently wrote a short review on a jacket pattern.  And the next contest seems right up my alley, Endless Wardrobe, sew an item, then sew another to match the first, rinse and repeat.

I've decided to do it, and to write a bit about it on here.  I probably won't get back to this whole blogging thing, and I really don't like review writing anymore, and I sew ALL the time and everything I wear, AND.....I do miss know what I did when and with what pattern, size, etc.  So we'll see what happens.

Also I've set a challenge to make each item be out of a "new to me" pattern.  I have the most recent set of 4 Fall patterns from Silhouette Patterns, so will be working on those.  My first item though is an old Silhouette Pattern, called Betsy's jacket.  I have a nice wool/poly blend from FabricMart, bought especially for a jacket for this fall.  I have lining fabric already.

I'm interfacing each of the body pieces as I go.  So, something I've learned recently is that my steam press definitely SHRINKS the fabric and or interfacing, no matter what.  I also have a gravity feed iron, it doesn't shrink it, but the steam press does.  I'm being a good seamstress and pre-interfacing each section before cutting out.  Plus the fabric has a small plaid on it, so I will sort of try to match up the horizontal stripe.  I will not stress over perfection.

New Panties....ooh la la

 Today I downloaded the No Show Brief from Greenstyles and gave it a whirl.  For my first pair I cut out a size G with the full tummy adjustment and made it up and was pleasantly surprised.  After wearing them a bit, the belly was rolling down under my own belly, which is definitely on the large size, and so I cut if off.  I used a nylon spandex in black, something that I would have made exercise leggings out of, but it wasn't too thick.

I went on to version 2 using "second skin," a thin nylon spandex.  You need to use a fabric that doesn't roll, so ITY doesn't really work.  I did the regular high waist and added the waistband.  

Version 3 went back to the full tummy adjustment with a waistband, it sits to my belly button, maybe 1/2" higher.  I'm still large at that area, not getting smaller for a couple more inches up.  I also made the crotch and gusset much wider, the width of the larger size, plus a smidge more.  I cut the very front thigh about 1/2" higher, but I don't know if that really makes much difference as the fabric just rolls under right there to fit nicely in the thigh crease.  

I'm still not sure about putting it all together, I feel like it could be easier, but mine looks pretty darn good.  I learned to fold under the front/back pieces where they go into the gusset, to help the fabric rolls under a bit.  The front looks great, the back still isn't perfect, but no one is looking that closely at my bottom, I hope.

Looks like many different colors, but it's not.  Here you can see how high the front is and that there is no elastic on the legs.  

I zigzagged the front of the gusset down at the end, and you can see how I folded the fabric about 1/4" into the seam.

This is where I don't like how it looks, so I will work on it and see if I can make it better.  It looks better below, on the inside.

Love Notions Tidal Dress

Wowza, you get me on a roll and I can't stop.  Actually, this is how I should do it, make an item, write up a short blog post.  So that's going to be the new plan.

I'm really enjoying the ease and simplicity of Love Notions patterns.  The fit is good, I'm making summer clothes, nothing needs to be perfect.  And I will admit that it's fun to sew without always making a new muslin for fit.  

I bought a bunch of the Love Notions patterns recently when they had their 40% off sale, so that means I really need to sew some up.  So far I've made a ton of the Lotus tops (I can post some photos), the Melody Dolman, Rhapsody Blouse, and the Metra Blazer.  I'll go through photos and see what I have.

So far I'm pretty much sewing up the straight size L.  For the Tidal Dress I did add a little bit at the center front panels at my waist.  I figured I could always take it away, and I didn't want it to cling.  The fabric is ITY from Fabric Mart.

Here's the Melody Dolman

This is one of my Rhapsody blouses, in a lovely silk from my bestie, Melody.

And the Metra Blazer

 

Silhouette Patterns #921 Valentino's Unlined Jacket

So the challenge has been made to update our blogs.  I see I haven't posted in 3 years, there's no way I can get caught up, so I'm just going to start from where I am.  One good thing about a sewing blog is that it's a great way to track what I've done, for myself.  I have no interest in teaching techniques, or giving my great advice on fashion or style, I just like to know what I've done.  And since I've also gotten lazy doing reviews on Pattern Review, perhaps I'll start to do a few of those again too.

My most recent project is this little linen jacket to get me started for Fall.  I really have a lot of summer clothes made, and I figured I'll start in on a bit of a seasonal crossover type of wardrobe.  Okay, that is basically a bunch of bull, I'm just sewing to keep busy.

The pattern is a size 4D, with an upper rounded back, sway back and larger bust "dart" taken, in the princess seam.  I also lengthened this 2".  I skipped the pockets since I didn't want them to show through in the linen.

I do think it's important to remember that this specific pattern is a BLOUSE pattern, even though it says jacket.  It is part of the blouse line up in Silhouette patterns, the sleeve is a blouse sleeve, the entire top is a blouse.  You can make a jacket out of any pattern I guess, it's just what you want at that time, and fabric is Queen!

And I do think I'll make it again, as a regular old blouse.