An odd skip body.

I noticed this a few weeks ago whilst out on the fat bike, but only today was I passing with a camera.

Its a narrow gauge skip wagon body, make unknown, found in the corner of a sheep field just outside Buxton in Derbyshire, just a few fields away from Tunstead limestone quarry (SK088748).

The cross bar is unusual, and note the crane loops and eyelet.

Note also the locking(?)catch above the trunnion, and the build up of lime dust on the ends.

I wonder if it was placed there as an animal feeder?

Paul.

Turning insulated wheels - an experiment.

Unless you're building split framed chassis locos, are stuck in the past using the 3 rail system or your locos have their own onboard power source you will need the wheels on one side of the chassis to be electrically insulated from the other. I enjoy making my own wheels, but so far I haven't had to worry about insulation. I have noted that epoxy is used as an insulator when making split axles for split framed locos, and I wondered if the same type of glue could be used for making insulated wheels where the tyre is insulated from the centre.

For no better reason than it felt right I decided to make some 7.2mm dia. wheels. I started with a length of 10mm dia. CZ121 grade brass. To make a blank for the tyre I drilled and parted off a ring with a 6.5mm bore 3mm wide. From the same material I turned one end down to 5.7mm dia. 5mm long, with a groove near the end (for glue, perhaps not neccessary but I didn't think it would do any harm);

Using quite a lot of epoxy (Evo-Stik Epoxy Rapid, all I could find locally) I glued the tyre to the centre making sure that the gap between the two parts was fully filled, and left the tyre and blank in a V block to set for a week or so. Note the gap between the tyre and centre;

I left a gap of .4mm, I'm unsure if this is about right or whether I could get away with less. Once the glue had set the job was faced off then the top turned down to 8.9mm (finished flange dia. plus .1mm). With a parting off tool the width was reduced to 2.2mm, then a step turned to 7.3mm dia. (tread dia. plus .1mm) leaving a .8mm wide width for the flange;

With a NEM 310 'N' gauge profile tool the lathe was set to 150rpm and the wheel profile formed;

I parted each wheel off overlength, then held them in a step chuck to finish to length;

Here's one faced to 2mm wide;

Each wheel then had its face profiled, again held in the step chuck;

In the photo above are the two insulated wheels (lower) plus 2 solid brass uninsulated wheels.

As the tread is only glued in place I played safe by only taking light cuts and working very gently! In hindsight it might have been wise to do a destructive test by taking bigger and heavier cuts to see if the glue would fail.

This technique so far seems to work ok on smaller wheels but I'm not sure that it would work on larger wheels where the turning forces are greater, or harder materials than free machining brass. More experimentation required!

Of course the next job will be to build a working chassis to test these, then of course I'll need to build a body to sit on that chassis...

Paul.

Grounded van bodies 14.

Coach bodies this time, 4 of them in fact. I photographed these today whilst visiting the Wells & Walsingham Light Railway. I know little about the bodies, I believe that the one next to the platform has been refurbished inside and converted to a craft room. The staff were busy going about running a railway so I didn't want to ask inane questions about coach bodies. I did note that some had the remains of wallpaper inside (along with a lot of rot and big holes in the floor), and at least one had a kitchen area. So they could have been holiday chalets? Whatever they were, I'm sure that the railway will make good use of them.

Here's the first body, built in 1880 by the GER, located next to the platform;

This one sits close by, behind the signal box;

Two more sit on the other side of the car park. Here's the one on the left;

From the other side;

And the right hand body;

Kitchen end, there's still a cooker and sink inside;

Note the vent! Yes it is a Castrol GTX can!!

I make no apologies for the photo heavy post, just look at all of those textures.

Paul.

Sorting my Saltford Models 'Audley' class.

As I've mentioned before, I recently aquired a Saltford Models 'Audley' class loco. It arrived with a broken rear bufferbeam, no couplings or cab roof and the cab rear separate from the body.

The first job was to sort out the rear bufferbeam, an easy fix. I just prised off the old one, which was made easier by the glue (epoxy) having failed between the brass frames and the plastic and made up a new one from .030" plasticard.

A new roof was rolled from .010" brass, with rainstrips from .33mm brass wire soldered in place. I tinned the end of a length of wire, soldered the wire in place with an overhang at both ends, then trimmed the excess wire to length once I was happy with the joint.

I tried a new method when cutting the roof to size. I marked out the brass then scored the sheet with a 'scrawker' type plastic cutter, the type with a 'v' shaped edge. Once a deep line is scored in the surface the sheet can be snapped over the edge of the bench, just as you would for plasticard. Which works rather well.

The cab rear and roof are just superglued in place.
Couplings are my own turnings, which look similar to the type shown in an old Saltford advertisement that I've seen.

So, now its in one piece. I shall probably leave it like this for now, unpainted.

Paul.

OO9 couplings - type 1.

Recently I decided that making my own loco buffer/couplings might be a nice little project, and a good way of personalising a model. So as a start I've machined up some couplings for my Saltford Models Audley. I have a few different coupler variations in mind, so I'm calling these my type 1 for future reference. (The main reason behind this blog is to record my work for my own use.)

The first job was to make a fag packet sketch (quite difficult when you don't smoke!), then from that a prototype which I wasn't overly happy with. So after a quick revision I set to work.

The first job was to mount a length of 6mm bar in a machine vice on my Unimat SL and drill a .6mm cross hole about 2mm from one end;

To position the drill in the middle of the bar I made a mark on one side with a permament marker pen. Then the drill was lowered and moved across until it just touched the bar and left a witness mark (which can be seen in the photo above). Then with the drill raised up again the vice was moved over by half the diameter of the bar plus half the diameter of the drill (3mm + .3mm = 3.3mm). This positioned the drill exactly on the centreline of the bar, and a hole could then be drilled through.

Now the bar could be transferred to my Unimat 3 and the basic shape turned;

The head is 5mm dia. x .9mm long, the shaft dia. 2mm dia. x 2.2mm long and the coller 3mm dia. x .6mm long. There's also a 2mm dia. stub to fit into a hole drilled in the loco's bufferbeam. I carefully machined the shaft with a grooving tool making sure that the .6mm hole sits directly behind the head, machining the head to length after all the basic turning is done. Finally the head is rounded off with a file and emery paper,

At this stage its not unlike a normal buffer.

Back onto the SL next, set up in the vice with the .6mm hole set vertical, done by placing a drill into the hole and checking with a square. Then 1mm is milled from the top of the head,

The final machining operation was to part the coupling off in the U3. Then the end of a length of .6mm brass wire could be tinned and soldered into the hole, being trimmed to length afterwards with 2mm sticking up;

I machined up 3, just in case I made a mistake!

Now, normal OO9 coupling height is set at 6mm above rail level. The centreline of these sits at 4.5mm above the rail top, so I machined up a 4.5mm thick gauge so that I could mark the bufferbeam for drilling;

Here's one coupling in place, after drilling a 2mm hole in the bufferbeam;

It suits the loco, sits at exactly the right height and should work rather well. Quite a satisfying little job.

Remember that clicking on a photo brings up a larger image.

Paul.

Saltford Models 'Audley' class.

Here's a rarity. I recently obtained this loco from a member of the NGRM-online forum;

The photos show the loco as I aquired it. The cab rear obviously needs re-attaching, a new roof needs making and the rear bufferbeam is damaged. Here it is with the cab rear blu-tacked in place;

This is a Saltford Models loco built by Brian Clarke, and finding out exactly what it is took a little digging. A while back I started a thread on the forum about Saltford Models locos, which a lot of modellers still find interesting to this day (the 009 range disappeared many years ago). In that thread my friend David posted some adverts scanned from old copies of 009 News, and from one of those, dated September 1983, I found my loco. It is an 'Audley' class, which were available ready to run either painted blue or unpainted. Prices were £29-75 unpainted or £36-70 painted. They were described thus: 'Pretty maid of all work. Hand built with brass cab, boiler and frames. Nickel silver wheels. Split frame power collection. Available unpainted from stock.' There wasn't a photograph, just line drawings of the side front and rear.

So, it seems that I have an unpainted example that is about 34 years old. But I do wonder if it is still as Brian built it, or whether it has been rebuilt at some stage? The drawing in the advert shows buffer/couplers, which were probably turned brass as the same advert lists turned examples which are the same as, or very close, to the ones in the drawing.

It is a very curious loco, and one which is in all probability freelance and built from odds. Note the etched brass frames;

They are a good match for a Waril class Hunslet, being the same length and having the same drop at the rear but with the wheelbase stretched. Saltford did offer a Waril later, in fact two versions, one scale model with etched frames and cab as well as proper coupling and connecting rods which could be had in either 9mm or 6.5mm gauges, and one simplified version with drilled strip frames, a plasticard cab (which you had to make yourself), only a basic con. rod, no connecting rods and axles coupled by a gear train.

Note also that the frames sit on strips of styrene, presumably to give more clearance between the wheels and the footplate.

The cab is also etched, and the front and sides are also a good match for a Waril. However, the rear is slightly different as it has a full backsheet rather than a half height Waril style backsheet;

The spectacle plates are seperate etches, soldered in from behind.

The motion is of interest as well. It is of course much simplified, comprising of only a flycrank and con. rod. The 'piston' rod is fixed into the cylinder, but offset to allow more clearance between motion and frames without the cylinders sticking out too far. This is actually quite an effective way of gaining extra clearance, and not really noticable.

The boiler is a solid brass turning, and the chimney is nicely finished in a typical Hunslet style (although Hunslet liked to alter the design of their chimney caps every time the wind changed direction!).

So, those are my thoughts on this unusual loco. I could of course be wrong in my deductions, and if I am please feel free to put me right! I'm also aware that the model may have been rebuilt at some stage in its life.

Now, what to do with it? It runs well considering its age and the cheap motor fitted. I do need to replace the rear buffer beam, refit the cab rear and roll up a new roof from brass. I could turn up some buffer/couplers quite easily, or fit a spare pair of Saltford whitemetal castings that I have knocking about which would suit the loco well. But after that I am very tempted to leave it unpainted and just enjoy it as it is. After all it has survived 34ish years without paint, and it could be argued that the loco has some historical signifigance being an early RTR offering. I'm very tempted to make a copy, I like the design and I have the ability to turn the wheels, boiler etc and the rest should be easily made. This means the original can be left as it is, and I can build a loco with the same dimensions etc. but with both axles driven and a more modern motor.

However, the big question is still: why 'Audley'?

Paul.