My Adventures in Prague
So, really right now I'm supposed to be marveling at the gothic interior of St. Vitus Cathedral built in 1344, (Columbus wasn't even born yet!) but my being clueless about travel in Prague and the events of today have led me here, to Room 444 of the Andels hotel, to watch the pedestrians below me, wait for my phone and camera to charge, and for my photos to upload. But alas, I've learned a lot (and that's worth something), and I have a moment to write and reflect (and that is priceless), so maybe it's all for the best.
I'll start where it began, which was of course Friday night. Well, let's be honest. It started with planning weeks before Friday. By the time we were ready to go, we (meaning some help from Spence, but mostly I) had arranged three fulltime caregivers in three different homes for our kids, found rides to and from preschool, ballet, and football, notified Kian's playgroup of his upcoming stint away from home, notified teachers of Evie and Aiden being under the care of others this week, wrote bus passes, worked out teenage babysitters for the little kids for Aiden's playoff game on Saturday and during sacrament meeting, ensured costumes were in order for Saturday's Halloween party, tried to find SOMEONE to sit with Coulson during his "Student of the Month" ceremony, wrote out a schedule and "best practices" for Kim, printed out and signed medical release forms for all five kids, packed myself and Kian for the week, made sure that the van no longer had fries and rotten banana peels in the cup holders (Aiden will do anything for x-box time), dug roots from mud and raked branches clear from trails with Aiden so he got in his mandatory service for football, baked a cake for Coulson's pumpkin carving party that he was dying to go to, wrapped a birthday gift for a party Evie's was going to, washed about 5 loads of laundry (but did NOT get them all put away), drove Kim around town so she would know how to get everyone where they needed to be, called the insurance company to get approval for a retail prescription that I HAVE to have rather than the mail order one that will have arrived today, and (I'm sorry to say) even arranged for our kids to live with my sister had our plane plunge silently into the black Atlantic, which I'm happy to say that it didn't.
So, regretfully, I was so busy taking care of details for the kids to have a nice trip while I'm gone, that I had no time left to actually plan mine. That's the joy of being a mom. It also adds to the joy of taking a little time off! But to be honest, I knew that I wouldn't be planning until I got here, so I can't be disappointed if my makeshift plans go awry! Besides, a little improvisation never hurt any vacation, and it's certainly not about to hurt mine.
Back to the story: Friday night we said goodbye to the kids, and were giggling all the way down to Stephanie's at Kian saying "K-Kian" at every sign that we saw or "Mommy, Moon!" After we arrived and I had explained that Mom and Dad were going on an airplane, I tucked him in bed and felt a real pang for the first time. I always kiss him on the cheek and say "Good night, Kian. Love you! See you in the morning!" I got to "Love you" and had to stop, because I knew that Spence and I would be on a Delta 747 heading for JFK International airport when Kian would be waking up. It hit me again at midnight, and 1:27am, and 2:20, and again the next day when Steph told us that Kian came down the stairs when he woke up and said, "Mommy, Daddy, sleep" and the pang has never really left. It's not so sharp now; I keep telling myself that he's having a good time, (which I know he is), is in GREAT hands, and will understand one day. But I can't help being in love with that little blondie. But once again, not to worry! Being in love with a toddler has never hurt my trips in the past, and I won't let it hurt this one. It will just make it that much sweeter when I come home and hold him again. And let's be honest, would I even have time to be writing this if he were with me? Moms need time too.
So the flights here were uneventful, which is always good when you're flying. I would recommend however, NOT playing Scrabble on the computer with the love of your life through rough skies when you've been holding it for over an hour, you're 8 ½ weeks pregnant, and your plane is descending into JFK! It was a long 20 minutes, and I was searching for an airsickness bag like you wouldn't believe. Luckily, I held my lunch, but it took a good 30 minutes to recover.
We arrived early here in Prague at 6:20am after a total of 14 hours travel time (including the 2 hour layover), and that's when the marathon started. We had to resist the jetlag, and stay up until at least 6:30 pm. Spencer's coworker Michael picked us up from the airport and took us to our hotel (Andel's) in the heart of Prague. Michael drove quickly and efficiently, and I tried not to think of my stomach as I poured over all of the buildings. I was intrigued by the juxtaposition of the boxy, grey, communist regime architecture next to the rich original architecture of earlier, freer times here. And with the freedom of capitalism, there was graffiti on walls of old masterpieces right below red geraniums in brown window boxes. Each to their own, right?
Spence commented to Michael about how empty the streets were. The city seemed deserted! They laughed at how it was because it was Sunday morning, and everyone was trying to recover from their evenings of party and pivo (beer—which is a big part of the culture here. Ever heard of Budweiser? Guess where it came from? You got it: Czech Republic, baby). Michael joked with Spence that he'd have to try it someday, and Spence just laughed him off. He was incredulous when I told him that no, I didn't drink either. He was at least equally dumbfounded with the fact that we were about to shower and get ready to go to church for THREE hours. He asked several questions about what we do for three hours. It was pretty funny.
Church was a highlight of the day, and I have a feeling will be a highlight of the trip. It was held in a small building on a street under a lot of construction. There was no access to the building from the street it was on, so it took our taxi driver a LONG time to find it. He seemed less than hopeful that he ever would. Finally after I said several silent prayers and Spence found a more specific address on his phone online, we saw a man in a suit carrying a satchel walking with purpose. Spence and I both agreed that he looked like a Mormon, so we rolled down the window and asked him if he knew where the Mormon Church was. He said that he did and was going there now. We got out and followed him.
We listened to much of sacrament meeting with headphones on. The meeting was conducted in Czech, and interpreted by a young woman named Marketa. She seemed a bridge between the young ex-pat moms and the more time-weathered Czech women. And I could tell that everyone loved this little, short woman with her smart glasses, super short hair, and suit (no skirt). The talks were given by a new couple in the branch—the Robinsons. They had just moved here from Warsaw, Poland, but were originally from the states. They had four kids, oldest 12, and youngest (I think) was 4. They seemed a little older than us, but very much in our same stage of life. When Sister Robinson talked about the adventures their family had had in the last 10 years living in Eastern Europe, I felt chills all up and down my body. I was amazed that this family had survived and thrived for so long so far from home! She said no matter what country they were in or what language they were speaking, there was always something constant—McDonalds! No, she meant the Gospel. I'm sure that has been the key to their success. It always is!
Gospel Doctrine was taught by a Canadian in English, and Gospel Essentials was taught in another room in Czech. It was on the value of work and self reliance—very good—except that I found myself fantasizing about lying on the ground and taking a nap. And lastly was Relief Society. Opening exercises was held together in Czech with Marketa, and then we divided into Czech and English Relief Societies. A really nice senior sister missionary, Sister Robbins sat by me. Come to find out, her husband was in our stake presidency when we lived in Murray. We knew many of the same people, and had much to talk about! There were 7 of us gathered in a small room on couches and chairs. It was a comfortable setting, where many were sharing very personal things about dealing with change. I had to think that many of these women had experienced change that I knew nothing about. And I admired them.
So now, our sightseeing was about to begin. Michael, his girlfriend Lucy, and son Izzy picked us up from Chur
ch to take us on an overview walking tour of Prague. Spence and I were starving and had to change into jeans and tennies for the trip, so we stopped at a little sandwich shop. The crusty bread and tasty cheese would become a staple for us here, and this was the first time I experienced it. Mmmmm. Michael had to ask the girl behind the counter if she could take us to the restroom. She led us out of the shop, down the street a little, through a tiny ancient-looking door, through a dilapidated hallway with plaster crumbling off the walls, across a picturesque little courtyard to the bathroom. I wish I would have taken a picture! It was so cool.
After lunch, we walked, and walked, and sang as we walked and walked and walked and walked (just kidding). No we started with a tram at Ujesd that went straight up a hill to the Roshledna tower (a replica of the Eiffel Tower, but about 1/5 the size). After Michae
l bought us tickets we climbed several flights of stairs to get to the first deck and then to the second. The incredible view of the city really provided a good way to start the tour. It gave us a great idea of where we were going. From there we walked to Prague Castle, which is essentially a large complex of several connected palaces in a huge rectangular shape, with the Royal palace being the most grand at the topmost part of the complex. The President still works there, and has a residence to stay there when he needs to. Obama visited there a couple of months ago, and while the other palaces used to belong to nobility and important families to the state, they are now mostly government offices. In the middle of the rectangle was the huge St. Vitus cathedral that I mentioned earlier, and I'll tell you more about that later.
Even though there were tourists everywhere and tours done in every language, there was something about the place that as Rick Steves said, makes you feel like you should be clip clopping along in a carriage, dressed in royal garb going to a ball or something. The buildings themselves are truly majestic. After seeing the castle, we took the walk down what used to be the procession where royalty paraded down the hill through lesser town (where the influential citizens lived), to the historic Charles Bridge which led to the old town where the peo
ple lived. Charles Bridge was built in the 1300's and is flanked with statues across it. But it has a modern charm with street musicians, marionettes, artists, and small vendors. Even the fact that it was under construction was cool. You could see that the whole thing was just stones and masonry, and they were repairing surface stuff. We loved Charles Bridge.
Michael was also disappointed to discover that we don't drink coffee or tea either, and even asked if we have any pleasures in life. But he was slightly satisfied when we told him we do hot chocolate. Come to find ou
t, he had a quaint little street café located on a canal just beneath Charles Bridge that he wanted to take us to. We went, and he sipped his coffee, Lucy her latte, and Spence and I our chocolate (just like Izzy had a little earlier), and we had great conversation. We were there for probably about an hour. So long in fact, that I found myself drifting off a little when Spence and Michael started talking about the office. I think Michael could see that I was tired, and he asked if we were getting ready to go back to the hotel. We had had a great day, and I was more than ready to go.
We've discovered that the people here are just not quite as expressive as we exaggerative Americans, so between that and the fact the Lucy spoke no English, I couldn't tell what she thought of us. She truly gave us a warm goodbye though, and Izzy as well. It felt good that maybe they had a good time even though they were totally catering to us.