As a last hurrah before leaving this rock, and to celebrate our Baby O news and my 30th birthday, we put our air miles to work and boarded several planes en route to Bali! And by several planes, I mean Saipan to Seoul to Bangkok to Singapore to Bali. Then Bali to Singapore to Tokyo to Guam to Saipan. Yikes. We showed up to the airport mentally prepared for a long and exhausting 27 hour trip, but were handed first class lounge passes and tickets to Seoul. Without asking questions about how this came to be, we boarded the plane through the separate first class ramp, put on our complementary slippers, wiped our brows with lavender-infused hot towels, and immediately got accustomed to first class travel. Once in Seoul, we crossed our fingers on the way to the transfer desk and Bam! Another round of lounge passes and first class seats to Bangkok - this became the reoccurring theme as our entire trip, to our surprise, was first class. A perfect way to the start the trip, especially with a pregnant lady on board! And for the record, Thai Airways first class is by far the best airline of all time, complete with seats that recline down completely into a bed.
We even got to hang out with a Korean pop star who was en route from Seoul to Bangkok for a concert. Before knowing who he was, we knew something was off about this guy the whole flight - people whispering and staring. It all made sense when we landed and other passengers and stewardesses began to take pictures with him and have autographs signed.
Singapore - my good friend Mike Philipps lives and teaches in Singapore right now - unfortunately he was in the states when we had a stopover there. Philipps told us our best bet was to stay in Little India at a hostel - I don't know why we didn't question that idea right from the start. Little India in Singapore is exactly what you'd expect - loud, crowded, and smelly. And a hostel in Little India, specifically an Australian hostel, is exactly what you'd think - loud, crowded, and smelly. We were actually semi-looking forward to staying in a hostel again, the last time either of us did was when we first met and traveled in Europe in 2002. Those fond memories were quickly replaced with the realization of a shared bathroom, 20 year old drunk Aussies, and an open bunk bed room (thank God we had the sole private room just off the bunk bed room).
| The Prince of Wales hostel on the left with the dog poster |
Bali - one of the most culturally and spiritually unique places in the world. As an introductory note, Bali is incredible but might not be the best spot for a pregnant lady in her first trimester - a lot of smells, spices, the infamous "Bali Belly" (think Montezuma's revenge). For whatever reason, we weren't aware of these things until after the fact - but Colleen made it through with flying colors; in fact, I was the one who fell victim to the Bali Belly. But that's beside the point.
I've seen the movie Eat Pray Love twice on airplanes now. Colleen has seen it more times than that, and has listened to the audiotape of it too. If you don't know about Eat Pray Love, it is a middle-aged divorced woman's search for self in Italy, India, and finally Bali. The movie stars Julia Roberts and was filmed largely in Bali - specifically Ubud, which was our first destination. I assumed we'd see a handful of "Gillies" as we came to call them (after the book's author Elizabeth Gilbert), as in single (or divorced) white, Oprah book-clubbing women in their 40s-50s strolling around the streets of Bali. I had no idea half of the people we'd see in Ubud would be Gillies, all in loose fitting Balinese linen gear. One man's response to the Gillie outbreak...
Ubud is the cultural center of Bali. The quaint town is situated in central Bali among picturesque rice paddies and surrounding villages. The Balinese people are incredibly friendly, very spiritual, and very traditional. We learned early on that Balinese people - both men and women - only have 4 names, based on birth order. Wayan is what you name your oldest child, Made is second, Nyoman, and finally Ketut. If you have a fifth child, you begin again with Wayan! That's just the start of the unique cultural rules the Balinese live by. Every home (they are more like compounds) must have certain buildings in certain areas of the property, including a temple.
| The temple at our homestay |
| Grandpa |
| Our homestay in Ubud |
Another daily ritual, offerings placed outside of every home and building. You would see hundreds of these offerings every day, often accompanied by burning incense (which didn't help Colleen's cause); so many that at times you couldn't help but step on them on the sidewalk. Each offering is very intricately made, often with flowers and food. The whole process must take up hours of each person's day.
We got to Bali the same week that school was let out for summer break. This meant kids were everywhere, playing soccer and flying kites. It was like taking a step back in time seeing hundreds kids running around everyday, the sky littered with kites. Easily one of our favorite things about the trip.
The highest concentration of Gillies in Bali was easily at the Yoga Barn in Ubud.
Another incredible traditional cultural Balinese experience were evening shows performed at various temples around Ubud. The shows are put on by members of the neighborhood that belong to the particular temple.
| The men's show - this is the temple (and men) from the neighborhood where we stayed. |
| Fire dance - those are coconuts |
| The fire dancer - notice the black feet |
| The women's show at another temple |
| Monkey Forest Sanctuary |
Probably the best part of the entire trip was a bike tour through the countryside starting at the base of the largest volcano in Bali - Mount Batur - and ending back in Ubud. We biked through rice paddy fields and little villages, stopping to meet folks celebrating the birthday of a temple, and biking past a wedding (Colleen wanted to ditch the tour to attend the wedding). We also stopped at an organic coffee farm - and by organic I mean the coffee is produced by feeding a "civet" (like a cat) the coffee beans and recollecting the coffee beans from the civet's poop. The civet's digestive tract adds enzymes or amino acids (something scientific), which makes the coffee less bitter. Apparently, this coffee is some of the most expensive and rare in the world....wasn't my favorite.
| Rice paddies |
| Mount Batur |
| Enjoying cat poop coffee with our new German friend Volker |
| Offerings for a temple birthday celebration |
| Banyon Tree |
We left the rice paddies and the Gillies in Ubud and headed for the flashier oceanfront village of Seminyak. Thank God we had a really comfy room in Seminyak, because we stayed in bed sick one whole day while we were there. In fact, I'm happy to announce Seminyak made Colleen a true tennis fan who watched nonstop Wimbledon during our Bali Belly days.
We made it out to the beach too. The kite flying that we came to know and love in Ubud - they love their kites on the beach too.
I also learned how to surf in Bali - which is pretty sweet. Thankfully, there are no pictures of me surfing, but this is the aftermath.
But best of all, I got to celebrate my 30th birthday on the beach in Bali with my favorite girl in the world. It was an incredible trip, a great celebration, and an unforgettable final chapter for this year in Saipan.
