We woke up around 8 and did a head count. Tessa was still in the room, although she HAD messed with the brakes on the wheelchair, possibly trying to escape? Another shot of our fabulous room.
Phoebe had leaked a bit overnight so I asked the hotel to please change the sofa bed sheets, but not to worry about anything else. They ended up replacing all the linens, but at least they left the furniture in our temporary arrangement. I made sure to book all hotels that served some sort of breakfast on site, because I knew with our group it just wasn't going to be possible for all of us to be ready at the same time to head out to a restaurant. The Windham had a nice, large breakfast room with enough choices to satisfy everyone.
By the time we were done eating, Phoebe was ready for a nap already. Since we were heading just a few minutes into historic Charleston I knew she wouldn't have any other opportunity to nap. I put her to bed while Tim put the car seat back together and rearranged the car. Heather liked looking over the tourist brochures and magazines trying to decide what places would be the most fun to see. Phoebe slept for an hour and we finally got into old C-ton around noon.
When we first exited the freeway the neighborhood looked pretty run down, and we were a little nervous to not know our way around. I had a guide book that highlighted some of the oldest buildings and places that had historical interest. We drove a few blocks and started feeling a little more at ease as the homes looked a little less dilapidated and showed some pride of ownership. There were some of these three story buildings that amazed us because they defied gravity by leaning so far over that some of them required 2x4s to be propped against the leaning sides. We drove down one block and saw some really beautiful and interesting homes, and then a couple of churches. The guide book told us about how important the "Aiken Rhett" mansion was, but most of these noted homes were being hailed as fine examples of such-and-such architecture, decor, furnishings, etc. We were NOT going to pay money to tour these places with our hyper 4 yr old and our 8 yr old in her wheelchair! Helllooooo?!!?!
At the corner of Charlotte and Elizabeth streets Heather and I said we just had to get out and walk the block. Tim drove around with the kids while I tried to quickly capture some of the interesting sights. Church was letting out at the red brick, New Tabernacle Fourth Baptist church on one corner. When I went to look up the name of it I found out that in 2007 the city refused a request by the pastor to turn the church into a theatre. The congregation of 300 couldn't afford the upkeep of the 1859 church, built to hold 1200. The neighbors in the area said they would rather have condos or a single family residence in it's place. I couldn't find a more recent article for an update, but I did see it listed on Ticketmaster as a venue. Since they were holding church services the day we were there I will consider it a victory for the church! One corner had a building that used to be Smith's Groceries, according to the faded sign on it's wall.
Directly across the street from the Baptist church was a huge white Presbyterian church. The Second Presbyterian Church was dedicated in 1811 and some of the headstones in the cemetery were equally old. This one is for a 15 yr old girl named Sarah who died in 1817. I can't read the one next to her but obviously a child's with initials S.H.P. I couldn't decide if the 'modernization' and ADA compliance of the building over the top of these graves was commendable or reprehensible.
Looking from the front steps across the street to yet another old church. The Mother Emanuel AME church, founded in 1818.
At the end of the block Tim picked us up and we continued toward the historic downtown. We paid to park in a lot at the corner of Market and Meeting Streets. We were all hungry at this point, so we asked the parking attendant for a recommendation. He suggested Hyman's Seafood just down the street and gave us a coupon.
Waiting for a table outside Hyman's Seafood on the weird rocking bench. In case you can't read it, Heather's shirt is Oscar the GROUCH.
The interior was funky, but restored to it's previous glory. Lots of famous people ate here. We debated which ones we wanted to be associated with depending on our seat at the table. You can see the plaques on the table.
Some of the ones from our table were:
Tim's catfish po'boy
Phoebe's fettuccine and sweet potato souffle
Tessa's grilled cheese
crab dip
You can also see some of the hushpuppies and boiled peanuts in the background. It was the usual fight with Tessa to get her to eat and not crawl around, under and over the table.
Our waiter talked to Heather for a loooooooong time. He said he was married, but I couldn't quite tell if he was flirting. Heather is a manager in the restaurant industry so they did talk shop most of the time. After dinner they gave us some coupons to go next door to the General Store and pick out a free popcorn or ice cream. Tim also decided to get a souvenir hat, pretty cheap.
We walked back to the car to swap out a few items, I walked back toward the restaurant when Tessa said she needed to potty. Back to the car again, we were ready to do some touring. I mapped out our route that afternoon and it only came to about 2.5 miles but it sure felt longer. It was amazing views and scenery, especially, but not limited to, the old restored homes.
U.S. Customs House
We stopped to chase squirrels and dip our feet (well, for some of us it was our whole legs) at Waterfront park.
The pier that walks out to the Cooper River. It has swings under the ramadas but we had to wait for a turn on one. I tried not to be annoyed at people who just sat and didn't swing. Isn't that what regular benches are for?
Tessa looked like she might fall asleep.
Phoebe enjoyed it but wanted off after a few minutes.
A beautiful magnolia blossom.
My beautiful girl.
A gate leading to the fountain where we played.
And a ton of pics from our walk. It was so hard to choose just some of them to share.
Old bank, 1800s, was the only Moorish architecture we saw
Old Exchange Custom House and Provost Dungeon, built by the British in 1767
I notice I was behind everyone in many of the pics. I really had to make myself keep moving. I just wanted to capture every intricate detail of this neighborhood.
A butterfly landed on Tim's butt which Tessa thought was hilarious. Okay, we all did. Especially me, since after 15 years of marriage he still tries to convince me that his farts smell like roses.
These trees had branches that grew together.
We discovered the East Bay Playground and had to let the girls relax for a bit.
Tessa loved this spinny thing.
When she tried to get out of it, she fell.
But didn't stay down for long!
Continuing on our walk at sunset...
We walked along a boardwalk type of path next to the river on E. Battery.
The homes there were incredibly ornate and grand.
We asked a lady who was out walking for exercise (thinking she must be a local - no camera or guide book) about the doors to the porches we kept seeing. She said that the rich families liked to show off their homes and gardens for passers-by and would leave the door open if they were receiving visitors. If it was closed, you could still appreciate the beauty (and their wealth) but you knew not to bother the residents. We wondered if this is where the term "open door policy" comes from?
At the end of the street we had to choose to continue along the waterfront or turn back north along one of the streets that ended where we were; White point Garden, aka The Battery. It was basically a park with lots of memorials. I didn't take pics of any of the statues dedicated to people I don't know who defended the confederacy. Sorry. I did take this of Tessa and her now infamous "Coconut butt" inspiration. Much more interesting, don't you think?
Walking back north now, along Meeting St. This is the Calhoun Mansion. I copied this from their website:
"...built in 1876 by George W. Williams for $200,000.00 and the lot itself was purchased for $40,000.00 (Confederate Currency).
...24,000 square foot structure has 14 foot ceilings, ornate plaster and wood moldings, elaborate chandeliers, a stairwell that reaches to a 75 foot domed ceiling, and a music room with a 45 foot covered glass skylight.
...After Mr. Williams's death in 1903, the house went through a succession of occupants and uses, gradually deteriorating until, in 1972, it was condemned .The house was subsequently purchased by a Charleston native who spent the next 25 years and 5 million dollars restoring it." Just a good reminder of why we were not actually touring any of the insides of these homes!
Tim loved the half-round porticos.
Gate's open...should we go in?
First Scots Presbyterian Church (1814). There are quite a few tombstones dated in the 1700's but we did not go in and look.
St. Michael's Episcopal (1752)
The Mills House Hotel, 1853
Skyline at dusk
The old city market (1841 front structure, around 1800 was the initial use of stalls behind this)
Which is back to where we parked. It was obviously getting dark and we were hungry, but since it was so late we figured we should avoid another sit down meal with the kids. We loaded up, headed back to North Charleston around 8:30 and found a good place called the East Bay Deli near our hotel that was just getting ready to close. We got the food to go and ate a late dinner in our hotel's breakfast room then headed up to bed.
