Farm to Table grows up; past and present leaders reflect on the promise and reality of the movement
Small actions can lead to big changes. But we must act. (And if you’re not familiar with the televised revolution reference, it’s to Gil Scott-Heron’s satirical poem and song from the 1970s. It’s relevant. Especially now.)
What Scott-Heron was getting at is this: When the revolution is upon us and it’s time to make real change, we’re going to have to be active participants in it — no watching from the sidelines.
Once upon a time, in the world of food, a revolution was quietly brewing. It began as a whisper among a few passionate souls who dreamt of a better way to nourish themselves and their communities. Little did they know that their collective efforts would ignite a movement that would transform the culinary landscape forever.
This is the highlight reel of the past 25 years of the farm-to-table, “good food” movement.
Alice Waters, the visionary chef and founder of Chez Panisse, stands at the forefront of this movement. She believes that the key to good food is sourcing locally, seasonally and sustainably. With the launch of her iconic Berkeley restaurant, Waters set the stage for a new era of conscious dining. Her philosophy attracted a following of like-minded individuals who shared her passion for fresh, wholesome ingredients and the importance of community connection.
Meanwhile, Niman Ranch, originally led by Bill Niman, and later, Paul Willis, championed sustainable farming practices and humane animal husbandry. They believed that the key to delicious meat was raising animals in a manner that respected their natural instincts. Today, by partnering with a network of more than 500 independent family farmers, Niman Ranch offers an alternative to industrial agriculture, providing eaters nationwide access to delicious and ethically raised meat.
As the movement gained momentum, a new generation of culinary pioneers emerged. Sean Sherman, known as “The Sioux Chef,” drew inspiration from his Indigenous heritage to revive traditional Native American cuisine. He reintroduced ancestral ingredients and techniques, reclaiming a narrative long lost in mainstream food culture. Sherman’s work shed light on the importance of honoring and preserving culinary traditions, particularly throughout Indigenous communities.
Adrian Lipscombe, a chef from Texas, fought to bring attention to the significant contributions of Black farmers and foodways. She challenged the narrative surrounding Southern cuisine and highlighted the rich history and diversity within African American culinary traditions. Lipscombe’s advocacy paved the way for greater recognition and support of Black farmers and food entrepreneurs, and is still going strong today.
In 2013, the Zero Foodprint initiative, founded by chef Anthony Myint and his partner Karen Leibowitz, took the movement even further. Recognizing that the restaurant industry was a significant contributor to climate change, they devised a system to help restaurants measure and reduce their carbon footprints. Through collaboration with farmers and carbon offset projects, Zero Foodprint aimed to make the food system carbon neutral, creating a path towards a more sustainable future.
“When I learned about regenerative agriculture it became clear to me that society was at the start of a major paradigm shift, like how with renewable energy everything would eventually change,” Myint reflected. Inspired by the possibility, Myint and Leibowitz opened their celebrated farm-to-table restaurant The Perennial, sourcing from regenerative farming leaders in the region. “We hoped we could start an optimistic and delicious revolution,” Myint explains.
However, the couple came to “the hard but important realization” that their restaurant’s procurement practices weren’t moving the needle far enough or fast enough in the face of the climate crisis. They closed their restaurant in 2019 and flipped their theory of change to launch Zero Foodprint, a nonprofit organization mobilizing the food world around agricultural climate solutions.
Zero Foodprint works with restaurants to add a small surcharge to diner checks — pennies per meal — to fund regenerative agriculture practice adoption on the ground. “It’s a way to actually vote with your dollar to grow better ingredients and restore the climate.”
Influential author and food writer, Mark Bittman, a vocal advocate for sustainable, plant-forward eating, believes the food movement has matured, suggesting a manifesto that resonates with a growing number of people who seek to align their food choices with their values.
“More people are recognizing that you can’t ‘fix’ food without fixing a number of other things,” Bittman shared, citing food’s impacts on the environment, labor and food access, among other issues.
“It seems that people who prioritize ‘good food’ recognize that you cannot buy your way into a better food system, that alliances are needed to address inequities and unfairness on many different levels. Very few people — even me! — would have said this 10 years ago.”
For Paul Willis, founder of the Niman Ranch Pork Company, memories of the past 25 years of experiences rise to the surface during our conversation.
Willis first recalls a late lunch at Zuni Café shortly after his pork had been added to the menu in the mid-90s and the chef, Marsha McBride, came out of the kitchen to say it was the best she had eaten in her entire life. “It was a wonderful thing to have happen to a farmer — especially back then,” says Willis.
He then reminds me of the seminal food publication, which launched in 1986 — The Art of Eating, published by Edward Behr. On the pages of issue 51, 1999, Behr penned the story, “The Lost Taste of Pork,” which focused on Willis’ farming methods and the resulting quality and flavor of his pork.
Behr wrote: “Decent, pleasant farming methods, good flavor in meat, and the supermarket can fit together. Even the family farm can have a place … A pasture like Paul Willis’s, where you can stand surrounded by green fields, contented animals, and fresh clean air, really is the way farming can be.”
Willis also points out that Niman Ranch has played other roles that have benefitted the food system, including being an alternative to the dominant industrial method of raising pigs in confinement by providing fair pay and market access otherwise unavailable. “Without Niman Ranch, most of our farmers would not be farming.”
A 2021 economic impact analysis found that Niman Ranch generates 150 percent more jobs and 50 percent more economic value for rural farming communities as compared to conventional pork production, per 100,000 pigs raised. As Niman Ranch farmer Ron Mardesen shares, “Niman Ranch gives me the chance to plan for the future of the farm, instead of worrying about there being a future for the farm.”
Over the past 25 years, the farm-to-table, “good food” movement has made significant strides.
Consumers are increasingly aware of the importance of supporting local farmers, eating seasonally and making sustainable food choices. Farmers’ markets have become bustling hubs of activity, connecting urban dwellers with the bounty of the land.
However, challenges remain.
The movement still grapples with issues of accessibility and affordability. Good food shouldn’t be a privilege reserved for the few, but rather a right for all. Efforts to address food deserts and inequities in the food system are ongoing, with organizations working tirelessly to create solutions.
Furthermore, climate change poses an existential threat to the movement. Extreme weather events and shifting growing seasons disrupt the delicate balance of our food systems. Farmers and chefs must adapt and find innovative ways to mitigate the impact of climate change on agriculture.
As the next generation steps forward, armed with the wisdom of their predecessors, they carry the torch of this movement into the future. They are driven by the belief that good food has the power to heal not only our bodies but also our communities and the planet.
And so, the food movement continues to evolve, guided by the passion and dedication of individuals and organizations like Alice Waters, Niman Ranch, Sean Sherman, Adrian Lipscombe, Mark Bittman, Zero Foodprint and countless others.
Together, they weave a tapestry of sustainability, flavor and justice, forever changing the way we eat and nourish ourselves.
This article was inspired by the celebration of the 25th anniversary of Niman Ranch, a long time Edible Communities partner and important influence in the farm to table movement.
