Academic black tie event: Burda 03/2011 #106

February 5, 2026February 5, 2026 SewingElle10 Comments

I was invited to a state dinner with a black tie dress code. Of course I needed to make a new dress!

It was to celebrate the formation of Adelaide University through a merger of the University of Adelaide and the University of South Australia. Yes they were not very innovative with the new name. And yes there is some controversary and unhappiness about the merger.

An invite from the South Australian Governor and the State Premier to a State Dinner does not come my way every day, however, and it was appropriate for me to attend as part of my job.

The dinner was held in a marquee in the grounds of Government House (fancy!) at the end of January (hot!).

*Inside the marquee once it got dark*. *Those long tubes on the roof are air conditioning ducts. They were needed!*

The recorded maximum temperature that day was over 39oC, with the temperature still at 35oC when the event began at 6:30pm. I was glad I anticipated this and made a hot weather appropriate black tie outfit.

I took the easy route and used a simple pattern I’d previously made.

This is Burda 03/2011 #106. This loose design was perfect.

*The loose shape and high walking slit in action*

I drafted this out to a size 46 or so by adding extra width to the size 44 collar pieces and the front and back gathered dress panels.

I omitted the seaming on the collar because I wanted to highlight one of the Greek figures without seams getting in the way.

I used a soft cotton batiste in white to line the dress and also used this as underlining for the outer collar. A fusible woven cotton interfacing went on the inner collar pice. It’s also white.

*Attaching the collar – interfacing on the inner piece (most of the photo) and underlining on the outer (at the bottom of the photo)*

I’m a bit on the fence about the cotton lining – it made it very hot weather appropriate but it does dull the print down a bit. Not so much the colour but more the lack of shine. On balance though, it was the right choice both for the event and for future versatility.

I stabilised the armscyes with Vilene bias tape. I only had this in dark grey – you can see it in the photo below easily in the white parts of the print but this is not noticeable when worn.

The outer fabric is a long term stash dweller, purchased in 2015 from Stonemountain and Daughter in San Francisco. It’s a polyester chiffon with a classical Greek print. Classical in an academic Classics sense. So therefore perfect for the event!

*Not the best pattern placement on the back!*

It was a narrow width and I only had 3 metres so there was some unavoidable mirroring on the back and unfortunate placement of upside down heads!

*Am I showing you French seams or a statue with a strategically placed fig leaf?*

I used French seams, considered adding pockets and then chickened out – worried the lightness of the fabric wouldn’t be able to support putting anything in the pockets.

All up this was a success. I felt good on the night, and it worked for the weather.

Upon leaving I could not resist a selfie with the fabulous statue of the last Queen Elizabeth

January 2026 statistics

January 31, 2026 SewingElle11 Comments

A second yearly series on monthly stash management escapades. Strap yourself in!

Yes. I’m intending to continue with monthly updates on stash management for another year. Not necessarily by popular request. But because it keeps me honest.

The headline for this post is that January 2026 was very productive. I had a sewcation at the beginning of the month and then sewed again over the long weekend at the end of January because it was very hot – an air conditioned sewing room was the very best way to spend it.

Fabric purchases

Just like January 2025, we went to IKEA because we needed napkins and wooden coat hangers.

Felicity came with us. Of course we bought more than just napkins and coat hangers.

As usual, Felicity and I browsed in the bed linen section – it’s been a good source of fabric for garments in the past. I talked her out of Cymbalblomma – a 100% polyester duvet cover, but caved in on Sorgmantel – a cotton poly blend one.

Amount: the equivalent of 2 pieces, each 2 m long by 2m wide (it’s a double bed duvet). Plus whatever extra is in the two pillowcases
Composition: 65% cotton 25% polyester
Price: $29 for the duvet cover ($7.25 per metre)
Plans: a Zelda skirt and matching top – still contemplating styles for the top

What came out of stash

Half of the IKEA duvet cover has been turned into a Zelda skirt for Felicity

I made the black tie event outfit.

I took the easy route and used a simple pattern I’d previously made. I expected it to be hot (an outside event in summer) so decided that this loose design would be perfect.

This is Burda 03/2011 #106.

The simple design meant I could use fabric I already had. This fabric is deep stash – purchased in 2014 from Stonemountain and Daughter in San Francisco. It’s a polyester chiffon with a classical Greek print. Classical in an academic sense.

Very on theme for the black tie event – celebrating the creation of the new Adelaide University by merging two existing universities.

I made a shirt for He who Cooks from fabric purchased last month. Also very on theme with the radishes!

This is Burda 04/2010 #128 without the pocket. My go to pattern for men’s shirts

This one was a failure. At least I used stash fabric for it – an IKEA sheet purchased last January.

This is Burda 03/2025 #118 and it’s a failure for two reasons:

I traced off and applied the front band incorrectly.
Both the mustard yellow color and style doesn’t play nicely with my Zelda skirt, which was its intended partner.

I intend to try again – those radiating pleats are a lovely feature.

I’ve made a Deer & Doe Myosotis dress (blogged) and then a top, both from souvenir fabric purchased last Easter in Singapore.

I love them both. Great pattern!

The numbers

4 m came into the stash from IKEA
17.1 m left the stash
- 2 m of the IKEA fabric left the stash as a skirt
- 3 m of deep stash georgette and 2.9 m of lining left as a midi length halter neck dress
- 2.4 m of radish cotton left as a shirt for Chris
- 1.2 m of IKEA sheeting left as an unsuccessful top
- 4 m of Singapore souvenir batik print left the stash as a dress
- 1.6 m of another Singapore souvenir fabric left as a top

I’m pleased with the use of stash fabrics and how almost all of the garments turned out. And I had fun. It was a good start to the year!

Deer & Doe’s Myosotis dress in almost Singapore Airlines batik

January 28, 2026 SewingElle15 Comments

I tidied my sewing room during my sewcation this January. Tidying and organising sewing supplies is sewing adjacent activity isn’t it? The same for buying fabric and patterns, which I didn’t do on my sewcation. Well, perhaps a tiny amount.

*Newly organised fabric and pattern storage doing double duty as backdrop for my new dress*

Anyway, back on topic. The Tidying Up revealed a printed and assembled pdf pattern of Deer & Doe’s Myosotis Dress hiding in plain sight under wrapping paper, gift bags and an extra extension cord on top of a chest of drawers under my cutting table. You see why Tidying Up was required!

The pattern itself came out years ago, could even be close to ten. I’d printed it on pink paper and the sticky tape was now a bit yellow, so that dated it to at least two years before I even considered making it.

It was time to change all that! Many excellent Myosotis dresses have been made by the global sewing community. Could I repeat their success?

First question was what size I am in Deer & Doe? Possibly a 46 or 48? I settled on 48. I’m usually a 44 or 46 for Burda patterns. And then, do I need to petite above the bust? I do for most other pattern companies. I held up the paper pattern to myself and decided I should.

#spoileralert- could have gone for a 46 and probably didn’t need the petite-ing.

Next question was what fabric from stash to use? A souvenir cotton from Singapore that was very close to Singapore Airlines batik was keen to be a Myosotis Dress. It’s border could be put to good use on the ruffles. Easy decision!

I hemmed the border print on the skirt ruffle with a 1 cm double fold and the sleeve ruffles by simply turning up the selvedge.

I worried about whether the line of stitching might detract from the print, but not worried enough to consider hand stitching. Of course the stitching turned out to be of no consequence.

I really love the neckline. A stand collar with a V neck. Swoon.

My buttonholes turned out slightly unevenly placed – pretty sure this was operator error of inattentiveness. Even though I’ve used lovely purple buttons, the busy print makes them almost blend in and hides the unevenness. It also hides the almost pattern mirroring. Ask me how much I care! Refer to happy photos for the answer.

Another great feature is that it has pockets.

Great pattern. Should have made it years ago.

Twixtmas 2025 sewing bought to you by Closet Core Crew: Zelda and Josephine

January 4, 2026January 4, 2026 SewingElle18 Comments

Boxing Day (St Stephen’s Day) to New Year’s Eve – I love that extra period of time in a year that is Twixtmas.

This Twixtmas’s activities included some sewing.

Of course they did.

At least I sewed with stash fabrics.

Closet Core Crew Zelda skirt

I love this style – reminds me of my late teens and early twenties.

The instructions are excellent, as expected of Closet Core, and the order of construction is very clever. The gathered skirt panels are sewn to the yoke pieces first, not sewn to each other first. This makes it easy to get the gathering right up to the seams and to line up the seams between the yoke and the skirt.

I made a size 16 with the waist graded out to a size “17”.

My fabric is a cotton poplin purchased last April in Singapore. It is crisp and has good body so works well with this style.

I overlocked and then turned the hem up 5 cm rather than the narrow hem recommended in the instructions.

*With Josephine AND Peggy! Plus the added bonus of coordinating perfectly with my favourite boots*

I like this skirt a lot!

My only disappointment is the lack of pockets. The lovely deep V of the yoke at the side seams means that pockets would be placed a bit low and I don’t like the idea of patch pockets on this style

Closet Core Crew Josephine set top

I made a top from the same fabric so I would have a matching set.

This is the top part of the Josephine set.

It is also a size 16 with the only modification being 8 cm removed from the straps. Yes 8 cm! That’s seemed a lot but it was what I needed for the top to sit where I wanted it to without the straps pulling off my shoulders. I know I am short waisted but it still surprised me.

It’s cropped but, with the high waist of Zelda, there is little opportunity to see anything, except with extreme movements like taking off my Peggy jacket.

*Tiniest bit of midriff briefly on show. The late afternoon sun shining through my lined Peggy jacket also shows how light weight it is. Love this jacket*.

I added black buttons to the back tab and sewed them on with yellow thread for some extra contrast.

The “black” lines in the print are actually deep inky navy but I didn’t have 3 appropriately sized buttons in that colour in the stash so black it was. Not that it matters, just interesting that the colours in the print were not simple.

*I like the set with chunky black sandals too*

*And, continuing in the black accessory theme, I added a black label.*

Sewing – how much do I love it?! So much joy! Starting with the fabric to choosing the pattern through to the actual sewing and then pulling it together into an outfit.

It doesn’t always happen but it is SO good when it all works out.

The year that was 2025

December 31, 2025December 31, 2025 SewingElle15 Comments

It’s been a good one.

Stash reduction

*A small part of a fabulous fabric store in Milan, responsible for some of my fabric acquisitions this year*

I’m pleased with my focus on stash reduction. A monthly blog post keeping me accountable has helped.

More went out of the stash (157 m) than came in (90 m). That’s almost 70 m less in the stash than at the beginning of the year.

Almost 70 m out of the stash makes me happy! I probably have at least half a kilometer in fabric meterage so as much as 10% reduction is to be celebrated.

The other good thing is that half of the new pieces of fabric I purchased or were gifted this year have already been sewn. That’s means I’m making more intentional purchases. Another good result.

I still have a lot of fabric in stash. My stash is generally sorted and stored by colour and there are several drawers (navy, yellow, perhaps also red – I’m looking at you!) that are still too full to easily see what’s in them.

*My stash is spread across at least 9 more drawers like these ones…and some of them almost stuffed as full as these*

I need another year of considered purchase – no more navy, or yellow – and lots of sewing of navy and yellow.

Selfless sewing

I did a lot of sewing this year – 49 items. Lucky I love it.

I feel a bit guilty about sewing so much – it seems like fast fashion on another level – but I have had some changes in weight so previous sewn garments no longer fit. And it was not all for me.

A third of my sewing this year was for others. Or, only two thirds of my sewing was garments for me. That’s a stat that surprised me. It is usually higher.

Pattern companies used

This year the combinations of regular Closet Core patterns and patterns from my Crew subscription just squeaked past Burda as the most used patterns. Then in third and fourth place was Vogue and Fibre mood. I’m quite taken with Fibre mood.

Most successful sewing

This one is tricky to nail. I’ve been happy which most of the items sewn this year.

One of the best was the Fibremood Mirri dress in IKEA canvas. So joyful!

*Fabric bought for a beach bag. Enough left for a matching dress after I played with stripe placement.*

Another much loved and worn garment is my Closet Core Crew Josephine trousers. It’s a great pattern.

A surprising success was Paco Peralta’s wide legged pants using Vogue 1619. I’ve worn these much more than I expected. Yes, they are ridiculously wide, but there is something deeply appealing about them.

This dress, made from Vogue 1883 for Felicity to wear to a wedding, was another success.

A basic Burda magazine shirt pattern, BurdaStyle 04/2010 #128, made several excellent shirts fom Rory and Chris, with my favourite being this lemon one.

The doozies

There have been several.

The worst was sewn at the beginning of the year. This is Butterick 6991. As sewn by me it has many issues.

The sizing is wrong
I swapped out a long centre front concealed zip to a short exposed one and unintentionally gave it rugby top vibes
I lost one of the appealing style features by combining the two skirt panels into one
I interfaced the bodice to stabilise the weave but not the skirt and then used a light purple lining for both of them instead of white like the interfacing. This made the skirt slightly darker in colour
The sleeves are correct for the era but either too long or not long enough to look good on me

Not worn and not blogged. I still have it though. I am thinking it could be repurposed into a skirt.

Another not worn and not blogged garment was a top made from BurdaStyle 02/2024 #104 for Felicity in a remnant as a trial.

She didn’t like how it sat on her even after adjusting the fit to work well and the fabric wasn’t right. Not a wearable toile. And not a pattern she wants repeated. It went directly to the donation pile.

Another dress that was not so much unsuccessful but more that I don’t love it was a trial of an old pattern, Vogue 1360, and a good use of fabric that had been in the stash too long. It might look okay in the photos but it’s not a dress I enjoy wearing – the colours and print no longer spark joy. Trumpet sleeves with fabric that is white on the wrong side are also irritating.

Plans for 2026

Keep using the stash.

I have lots of lovely fabrics. No need to buy more unless I really really need to. Or one of the other self imposed rules like being on holidays or having access to something very very special.

Keep trying Fibre mood patterns and different styles

Nothing to lose but fabric from the stash and some of my time. But it’s “me time” doing something I love so nothing really to lose.

Make an evening dress

I have a black tie event at the end of January. This one will need to happen soon.

It’s a State Dinner (fancy!) in the gardens of Government House (in a marquee perhaps? So could be hot). Bonus points if I use stash fabrics.

Happy New Year!

Thanks again for reading and commenting, and heres to a happy new year for all.

Fibre mood Suvi dress – the gingham Christmas dress that wasn’t

December 29, 2025December 29, 2025 SewingElle8 Comments

This dress was made from cotton gingham from Spotlight bought this year for a Christmas dress

Immediately upon completing the dress I didn’t love it. I even included that view in my monthly statistics post about this project and suggested I would never wear it for Christmas, or ever.

Then it spent a few weeks in the magic wardrobe, I pulled it out and wore it on a hot day after Christmas Day and I changed my mind ….

It’s definitely wearable!

It’s probably not quite the right fabric for the style. The cotton gingham is lightweight but still seems to have a bit too much body and not quite enough drape for this design.

This is Fibre mood’s Suvi dress from issue 34 in a size L. It’s an interesting pattern but tracing it off almost broke me – huge pattern pieces and on multiple sheets!

The bodice of both the front and back pattern pieces are curved asymmetrically to add the extra fabric to fold into the tie. The gingham really shows this off.

The front bodice is almost on the bias.

The back not quite so much.

The back also has a centre back seam with some shaping. I decided the left and right backs were too different from each other to be able to pattern match when I cut them out. So I don’t even try.

I should have tried. It makes me sad that it’s almost but not quite right.

Next time, if there is a next time and if it’s with a patterned fabric, I’ll cut the back out without the CB seam and move the walking slit to one of the sides. I believe it would work – a bit more asymmetry wouldn’t go amiss with this style.

*Front bodice gathering needed to fit back bodice*

Either the fabric stretched out a lot on the bias or I traced it poorly but the neck was larger than the facing and one of the side seams need to have the front gathered to fit onto the back. Not that any of this matters once it done but sort of annoying.

*The tie looks better as a tie when worn but so cute as a bow!*

Lucky that this dress has some cute features or it would not even had made it to the magic wardrobe for its second chance!

December 2025 statistics

December 22, 2025December 22, 2025 SewingElle9 Comments

I know I know. December isn’t over yet. But I’m unlikely to sew more before Christmas Day, so sewing December is probably done. Those days between Christmas and New Year are another time period all together.

So, what happened in the pre Christmas part of December?

There were modest additions to the stash and some sewing. It’s been a good end to the year! Not everything sewn was a winner though.

Fibre mood Suvi dress

This one is not a winner..

*Might look okay on a hanger. Not so good on*

At least this project removed gingham from the stash which was bought this year for a Christmas dress. Fabric being used in the year it was purchased and for the reason it was purchased is a plus! But there is still a problem.

I don’t love the dress. I may not wear it on Christmas day or any day … It’s not the pattern’s fault though. It was a poor choice of fabric for this style. The cotton gingham is lightweight but still has too much body and not enough drape for this design.

Gift aprons

These were more successful.

I made four aprons from Jocelyn Proust furnishing cotton twill purchased and sewn this month.

Three were made using Tessuti’s free wrap style apron pattern and one as a copy of a standard style apron we already have in the house and wear all the time.

They were gifts for the great people in my team at work.

*They loved them! So much so they put them on at work!*

The standard style apron was perfect to use to wrap a boxed panforte made by Chris which was the other part of the gift (Chris is the He Cooks part of the blog name). Love it when the blog name (and label in this case!) plays out in real life!

Closet Core Crew Celia dress

I’m hoping this is a winner. Early days yet.

This pattern is a fabric hog but luckily I have just the right amount of a drapy fabric in stash thanks to a friend’s sister’s mother-in-law’s destashing.

Another pleasing thing about this fabric is that it has 70’s vibes. It may even be from the 70’s. I’m predicting an excellent match of fabric to the pattern.

Other fabric bought

I went to Spotlight to buy thread and a zip for the Celia dress and …. of course I did …. came home with fabric.

The first piece has already been turned into a sundress. It’s sort of cheat sewing when the fabric is already shirred.

Amount: 1.2 m by 140 cm. I really only needed 80 cm, so now I have more remnants.
Composition:
Price: $18 per metre on sale. Less than $22 for a dress. Bargain!

The second piece was bought for a shirt for He who Cooks.

I could not resist. There was only enough left on the roll for a short sleeved shirt so we’ll see if he approves.

Amount: 2.4m by 112 cm
Composition: cotton poplin
Price: $11 per m. Also a bargain!

The numbers

4 m of gingham left the stash as a Fibre Mood dress
4.9 m of cotton twill entered and then exited as aprons
5.6 m of mystery silky fabric from stash cut out for a Closet Core Crew Celia dress
1.2 m of preshirred cotton entered and and then exited as a dress
2.4 m of a shirt weight cotton came to live in my stash.

Reflecting on my first year of stash management

How did I do?

Well I’m pleased – more was sewn than came into the stash. I’ll do a bit more analysis and perhaps include it in a year in review post. But the bottom line is that I did a lot of sewing this year. Lucky I love it!

Blue and silver jacquard dress: Vogue 8630

December 16, 2025December 16, 2025 SewingElle14 Comments

This dress was truly the definition of frosting – fun sewing that was almost completely unnecessary and certainly indulgent!

I made a back up dress for Frocktails in case it was cold. Like, as if I don’t have any other party dresses to wear. It has been an unusually cool spring so this is not quite as silly as it sounds. Just indulgent!

*Yes I added the label, even though it was the backup dress!*

I didn’t end up wearing it for Frocktails but I did wear it to another event instead of the more summery frock I’d made for that second event. So my plan paid off! Although I am still waiting to wear the more summery frock…

*My frock and I with some of the great people I work with*

The pattern is Vogue 8630 and I made the long sleeved version of it

I used fabric from the stash (since January 2019 – pre COVID!). It’s a polyester spandex “famous designer” brocade from EOS and was a delight to sew. It pressed beautifully! Ever so faint aroma of rubber though, speaking to its fibre content.

I made a size 20 and the fit is quite good. The only thing I should’ve changed was to petite the bodice. The waist seam wants to sit lower than my actual waist and as a consequence there’s a bit of unnecessary blousing.

*The waist seam with its perfectly centred medallion!*

I’m short waisted and I always petite the bodice so not sure what happened when I was cutting out the fabric. Possibly distracted by pattern matching. Which turned out so well. Too well to redo the waist seam and lose that beautiful matching!

*Centre back. Also with pattern matching!*

The pattern matching is good through the curved centre back seam too.

I love the asymmetrical collar. I didn’t interface my fabric because it felt like it had enough body without it.

The busy fabric doesn’t really show the collar to its full glory. But believe me – it’s glorious!

The collar is wide enough that the zip does not need to interrupt it through the centre back for the dress to still be easy to get into.

Which made for a near perfect invisible zip insertion – with the zip pull almost hidden by the collar, as you can see above.

The design is fully lined. Even the sleeves. Delightful to wear. I used a stretch lining

The more summery dress I made for this event and did not wear was the same pattern but without sleeves and with a fuller skirt.

I haven’t worn it yet. It does look better ironed, and on me than it does on the hanger!

It’s a mid weight woven cotton – probably for soft furnishing rather than garment sewing – that I acquired from a charity shop this year in Port Elliott, a seaside holiday town. I made a tulle petticoat to wear under it and “floof” out the skirt. But have not yet had the right occasion with the right weather to wear it.

I really like the blue dress but I’m in two minds about whether it’s a bit costumey. No doubt about the yellow one – it’s definitely vintage costumey!

*With my lovely colleague, Jay, in his marvellous aubergine suit*

Beautiful jacquard fabric though and my favourite colour!

Thanks to ASVO for the official photos.

November 2025 sewing statistics

November 30, 2025December 30, 2025 SewingElle10 Comments

November has been a slower sewing month than other months this year. Of the four garments I’ve cut out, only two have been fully completed.

No fabric acquisition though! That’s a win for stash reduction! Which is what this monthly series is all about.

What I sewed

Another Peggy jacket

Flush with the success of my first Peggy jacket I cut out another one exactly the same. This version is in ivory linen lurex blend – the same fabric I used for the skirt I made last month (yes I now have a suit!)

I lined it with an IKEA sheet. It’s a cotton lyocell blend with an excellent soft hand and the perfect off white colour.

Not much else to say – this is a great pattern with great instructions that leads to great results.

It’s incomplete because I haven’t yet decided on buttons. I think I need them but He who Cooks is very taken with its current simplicity.

We will see..

Christmas shirts

I’ve cut out and finished both Felicity’s and Rory’s shirts made from novelty fabric bought this September. Which is just in time, since Christmas is upon us!

Felicity’s was made with a pattern I used for her 9 years ago (!) for another novelty print cotton – Burda 06/2013 #120 in a size 40 with a FBA. She still has this shirt and wore it again recently so we both knew the fit was still good. The pattern is for a shirt dress but you all know how easy it it to turn that into a shirt!

I had fun with labels. Because why not?

I had fun with labels for Rory’s shirt too.

Rory’s shirt is also based on a TNT, but this time from last year – Burda 07/2010 #128 in a size 52 with the neck band height reduced by 5 mm, no pocket and short sleeves.

Novelty fabric and shirt sewing. Great combination! Satisfying details, including pattern matching across the front.

Baby clothes

My dear friend M is some going to be Nana M so of course I am making a hand sewn gift for the new baby!

How old must that pattern be? Look how yellow the instructions are! It’s definitely out of print – that number brings up a current Gertie dress pattern and other OOP children’s patterns. But the Lincraft stamp dates it to less than 50 years ago.

I don’t recall a lot about it but I’ve previously used it – it’s partially cut out and the middle size traced out.

I’ve used an Indian cotton left over from another project (the baby and I will have matching outfits!). The fabric is beautifully soft and will be a lovely and cool garment for a baby to wear in the hot Adelaide summer.

The numbers

The ivory jacket used 2.0 m of linen and 1.5 m of lining.

Felicity’s shirt used 1.6 m of a novelty cotton woven.

Rory’s shirt used 2.4 m of novelty cotton. There is only a 40 cm remnant left so I’m calling that reduction of the fabric stash by the full 2.8 m purchased.
The baby garment used 1 m of a woven cotton.

All up this month another 8.9 m left the stash. Go me!

Fibermood Mirri dress: the Linton Tweed and Frocktails version

November 8, 2025November 8, 2025 SewingElle7 Comments

*My lovely date and I accessorised and ready to go to Frocktails!*

Like all good projects, this one started with the shoes.

Then the fabric.

After that it was just a matter of picking a pattern to showcase the best features of the fabric and work with those shoes!

Fibremood’s Mirri ticked the boxes! The trial version confirmed it was the one.

The fabric was a sample remnant from Linton Tweeds factory outlet shop bought whilst on holiday.

I had two 1 metre pieces. The main fabric was a cotton lurex blue/silver/white self striped weave with a red, white and navy motif down the middle, parallel to the selvedge and another wider red, white and navy stripe closer to the selvedge.

It was fabulous fabric but sort of difficult to know what to do with it to incorporate its unique qualities.

*With my dear friend M at Frocktails. Thanks to @adelaidesewcialclub for hosting and @bash_image for the photo*

That’s why the Mirri dress was a great solution. I could use the thinner strip down the centre front and back (omitting the seam but retaining the effect) and the thicker selvedge strips on the sleeves (omitting the cuffs but getting the same effect). Luckily all the pattern pieces worked for this on my two 1 metre lengths!

*With Hayley and Rhianne* *at Froctails*. *Thanks to @adelaidesewcialclub for hosting and @bash_image for the photo*

A dress made from such special fabric needs to be lined. And I had the perfect lining fabric in stash.

Again this was a spectacular fabric that was difficult to find the right project for. A silk twill that looked like a knitted jumper? Why would that print be good as a light weight top? But lining for a dress? Couldn’t be more perfect.

This was deadstock Marc Jacob’s fabric from The Fabric Store, purchased in 2020. And I could not be happier with how well it works as lining for this dress!

There were lots of door prizes. I won a prize! A voucher for A0 pdf printing from Plan Make Do. Although it may be a while before I can use it because their social media says they’re taking a break and back in 2026.

*Look at all those wonderful sewists! Thanks again to @adelaidesewcialclub and to @bash_image for the photo*

So happy to update the dress after the event with the label from the goodie bag!

Handkerchief hem skirt: Burda 08/2024 #118

November 2, 2025 SewingElle2 Comments

Who knew that I’d wait this long before I made and wore something with an handkerchief hem?

I know I don’t look super thrilled in the image below, but I am pleased!

This pattern is particularly lovely. It’s not just a circle skirt squared off. The panels still have angles so there’s a lovely stripe chevron effect on all of the seams if you use a striped fabric. Like I did.

This is Burda 08/2024 #118 in a size 46. The fabric is a polyester georgette with a bit of a seersucker feel from a previous Adelaide sewists fabric swap – thanks Lucy!

Of course I included the pockets.

I made them with lining on the outer side facing the skirt so that they wouldn’t be obvious – the striped fabric is sheer. I also made them wider at the top and extended them to be sewn in with the waistband – for stability.

The lining is my skin tone, and not a long as the skirt because of fabric meterage restrictions. But it’s fine. The lining is about midway between thigh and knee.

I love this skirt, even though it isn’t particularly flattering for my body shape.

It is so much fun to wear! Look how much fabric is in it!

Even more fun with this gathered and tied top. Waist definition? Over rated!

Here’s to having fun with clothes!

October 2025 sewing statistics

October 31, 2025December 30, 2025 SewingElle8 Comments

Lots of sewing this month and no additions to the stash! And some of the sewing has also already made it to the blog. Well done me!

What I sewed

Crew Peggy jacket

This one has been blogged – you can read all about it here.

A total of 3.3 m released from the stash:

1.8 m of cotton/nylon/lurex blend boucle
0.8 m acetate lining for sleeves
0.7 m cotton lining for body

Handkerchief hem skirt

This was a fun project sewn on a bit of a whim and may never be well integrated into the wardrobe. I have some plans for coordinating tops. It’s not classically “flattering” on my body shape. Fun though. I can’t believe I’m almost 60 and never had a handkerchief hem.

The pattern is Burda 08/2024 #118. The fabric is a polyester georgette with a bit of a seersucker feel from a previous Adelaide sewists fabric swap – thanks Lucy!

It’s sheer – so I added a short lining.

This one released 4.4 m from stash – 3 m of the outer fabric plus 1.4 m lining

Ivory linen lurex skirt

This is a simple basic made slightly more interesting with patch pockets, topstitching and sparkly linen. I’ve needed something to go with this top ever since I made it last year. Also made on a whim. Hmm. What is it about red fabrics and sewing on a whim?

The pattern is Burda 10/2018 #123. I’ve made it previously without the pockets or those interesting side buttoned slits. One day I might even make it fully as drafted.

This released a total of 2.9 m from the stash:

1 m linen
0.5 m mid weight cotton for yoke and pocket lining
1.4 m cotton batiste for skirt lining ( it was narrow)

I have more than enough of the sparkly linen left to make a jacket. Another Peggy? Very tempted.

Yellow embroidered cotton top

I planned to make a top out of this pattern to wear with the handkerchief skirt. It’s Burda 08/2024 #105 and it’s also paired with the skirt in the magazine so it should work. I wanted to try the pattern out first before cutting into the coordinating fabric, however, because the gusset on the armscye seemed an odd construction detail. Not obvious on the line drawing, but it’s piece 24 in the pattern piece layout.

So I used a disappointingly embroidered cotton bought as a souvenir in Singapore for a trial version. Disappointing because the embroidery is not on grain. Pretty though. Perfect for a trial garment!

The quick trial version was made without the neck insert or centre front seam. I like it! It’s longer than I wanted for the handkerchief skirt. But that’s an easy fix.

Another 1.4 m out of the stash

Then I made the “real” version from an embroidered organza from stash – another souvenir fabric. This was from Spain and has been in the stash since at least 2019. I underlined it with an ivory tencel cotton blend sheet from IKEA.

It was an interesting sewing experience but I’m a bit unexcited by the top. Perhaps it just needs more time.

Another 3 m released from stash – 1.5m each of the embroidered organza and the underlining.

Floofy petticoat

The final sewing project was a tulle petticoat to wear under a retro style dress. I had fully intended to purchase one and had an excellent recommendation for an online vendor from a fellow Adelaide sewist but I couldn’t get one in my size or preferred colour in time. So I did what every sewist does – went to fabric store and bought tulle net and made my own.

I’m not counting this as fabric into the stash and then out again because it was cut out within a hour of purchase. But if I was, it was 2 m. I also used 6 m of brioderie anglaise pregathered trim from stash on the hem. Why did I have 6 m of this trim in the stash? Cannot remember – but it was fortunate!

Last words

15 m released from stash. Since January I’ve now reduced the stash by almost 40 m! I’m impressed with myself!

Fibre mood Mirri Dress – the beach bag version

October 22, 2025 SewingElle21 Comments

This was the first Fibre mood pattern I have ever made. And I loved it. I was hooked.

This dress was a trial of the pattern. I used IKEA canvas leftover from making a beach bag. Yes the beach bag is also in all these photos. Couldn’t stop myself!

Fabric challenges meant some of the pieces needed to be cut on the cross grain to fit the pattern on the remnant I had.

This made it much more interesting than expected.

But I love how it turned out.

The pockets are very generous.

I was a bit concerned that although the pockets were wide they would not be deep enough and things would fall out. They don’t!

This trial was a success!

I cut out the precious fabric.

But Mirri dress #2 will need to be another post because it’s for Frocktails. I don’t yet have photos of me wearing it but I am sure I will get great photos of it at Frocktails to use for the blog!

Crew Peggy jacket

October 13, 2025October 13, 2025 SewingElle18 Comments

*Peggy and Josephine – two excellent patterns from my Closet Core Crew subscription this year!*

This jacket was such joy to sew. Pretty fabrics, great drafting and excellent instructions.

The Peggy jacket is part of the Decades crew subscription this year and it is from last month. If you can access the pattern, I highly recommend it!

I made View B (button front and bracelet length sleeves) in a straight size 16.

I was originally intending to make the pattern in this windowpane boucle from stash. This was my first ever online fabric purchase back in 2012 (thanks Gorgeous Fabrics for making that so easy!) and I intended to turn it into a Chanel-style jacket. It has been many imaginary garments since then and now, with the Peggy pattern in my hands it seemed like its time had finally come. But Felicity made some very complimentary remarks about the windowpane boucle and her desire that it be turned into a garment for her, so, back into the stash it has gone.

The fabric I then selected was originally from The Fabric Store and is Tory Burch deadstock. It’s a cotton, nylon, lurex blend and a long term stash dweller- this piece was leftover from a dress/pinafore made for Felicity back in 2019.

The main lining of the body of the jacket is a cotton sateen from Spotlight. This was supposed to be a shirt from Chris. I might have enough left? I might also have enough for a top for me. Sewing plans are fluid! The sleeves are lined in a standard acetate lining fabric.

The selvedge was so pretty. I couldn’t resist and added it as trim!

I added the selvedge after finishing the pockets – the trim was attached afterwards and wrapped to the back rather than being caught in the lining.

The drafting and instructions are excellent. As you expect from Closet Core patterns. What particularly impressed me was

the seperate pattern pieces for the lining, including the pocket lining
pattern pieces for interfacing the upper back, shoulders and sleeve heads
instructions to interface what you expect, like the facings, but also
- the fold lines of the hems and the pockets
- where the buttons and buttons holes will go on the fronts
- on the armscye for those parts that weren’t already interfaced from the back and shoulders stays

It was quite a process cutting all of this out and then fusing the interfacings. But so worth it. This soft tailoring approach was perfect for my light fabric.

My only regret is that I didn’t interface all of the pockets. They are a bit saggy. I may remove them and make another interfaced set. I’ll see how much they annoy me as they are at the moment. I might also dislike them a bit because they are topstitched on rather than being hand sewn invisibly. I didn’t pay enough attention to the excellent instructions at this point in construction!

I also pinned one of them on at 90 degrees to the correct orientation, and realized this before I stitched them on! … it always pays to double check before stitching!

You can also see from the above in-progress shot that I overlocked most of the pattern pieces of my outer fabric before construction. This helped stabilize the loose weave and reduce some of the fraying that can happen though normal handling.

I’m very happy with this jacket. Using this sparkly olive green fabric was the right choice.

*Lovely clean mirror at the Adelaide Town Hall*

This colour already works with other clothes in my wardrobe for the fancy rich lady look above (perfect for attending the last Adelaide Symphony Orchestra concert), and it can be slightly less fancy with a denim skirt (another great Closet Core Crew pairing – Peggy plus Slate).

*Not so lovely or clean mirror in my wardrobe!*

I’m going to wear this a lot!

September 2025 sewing statistics

September 30, 2025December 30, 2025 SewingElle7 Comments

This month I’ve finished two frocks for Frocktails, from stash (yay!), and cut out another one, finished the top I’m making for a colleague’s daughter, trialled a pattern for a top for my own daughter and prepped for Christmas by adding Christmas themed fabrics to the stash.

#SpoilerAlert: I’ve sewed quite a bit but the stash is still not smaller.

Frocktails

I finished my Fibremood Mirri dress using precious stash fabrics and I love it. It’s for Frocktails in October so no modelled photos yet.

In a fit of sewing madness I cut out an alternative dress – just in case it’s cold (it won’t be, Frocktails is at the end of October!)

I’ve made the long sleeved version of Vogue 8630 out of a fabric that’s been in the stash since January 2019.

The pattern was a gift from a lovely sewing friend after she rationalised her extensive pattern collection. It’s very much in her style, as is the fabric.

The fabric is a polyester spandex “famous designer” brocade from EOS and it’s been a delight to sew. Presses beautifully! Ever so faint aroma of rubber though, speaking to its fibre content.

This frock is finished. I really like it!

I’m also dreaming of a different version with a fuller skirt. And I’ve cut it out from stash fabric. There’s going to be a massive basket of flowers taking up most of the bodice. Hope it works!

Cropped denim polo top

This top is finished. Woohoo!

I’d been commissioned to make a top for Caitlin – the teenage daughter of Mel, one of my lovely work colleagues. Mel is making me a necklace. It’s a reciprocal craft thing.

It seemed fitting that I wore the bracelets she made whilst making the top.

Caitlin’s top is inspired by one she saw in a market – an oversized two tone cropped denim top with a polo collar and long shirt sleeves.

I used Fibremood’s Liberty jump suit as a starting point.

I made a toile in calico and sent it home with Mel for Caitlin to try on. Apparently it was perfect!

The cuff plackets were certainly a lot better in the toile than the real thing. All to do with paying attention to the instructions about seam allowances and placement… nothing to do with the pattern.

Top stitching always makes things better (even when you don’t notice the stray thread before you take the photo!)

Other fun details included a KATM label on the pocket and a frayed unfinished bottom edge, as specifically requested by Caitlin.

Hope she likes it!

A top for Felicity

Felicity is in need of office work clothes and has selected several Burda patterns for this purpose. The first one I’m trialing is a simple top #104 from the 02/2024 issue.

The trial version is in a remnant of cotton poplin that is probably a bit robust for the design. I have a shirt made out of this fabric. I love it! And cutting out the leftover fabric made me realise I had not yet blogged about it. So I did! Read all about it here.

*Auditioning buttons for my shirt. No buttons needed for Felicity’s top*

My leftovers were only 1.5 metres of 115 cm wide fabric so I had to cut out the sleeve differently to Burda instructions.

This top wasn’t a success – something about the combination of both fabric and style makes Felicity feel this top would be more suitable for someone older than her. The back zip is also an inconvenient feature.

New fabrics now living in my stash

I needed to buy denim for the commissioned top and Spotlight had a sale. You know what happened. I bought more than the denim I needed to buy.

Navy linen

This looks so much better in real life.

Amount: 5.6 m x 130 cm. I asked for 4 metres and it was the end of the roll with apparently 50 cm extra. Must’ve been an error in measuring it out because after prewashing I had more than the 4.5 metres I had asked for and paid for!
Price: $106 ($18.90 per metre)
Composition: Linen
Plans: Wide legged pants and a shirt dress – I have lots of fabric..

Christmas!

Christmas Prints

Amount: 2 cuts of 2.8 m x 115 cm. They shrank from the 3 m cut when I prewashed them. Prewashing is essential!
Price: $75 ($13.40 per m)
Composition: cotton woven
Plans: Christmas shirts for my adult children. It’s become a tradition..

Gingham

Amount: 4 m x 115 cm (it didn’t shrink)
Price: $57 ($14.25 per m)
Composition: cotton woven
Plans: a Christmas dress for me. Possibly Fibremood’s Muriel. I might add sleeves.

Meterage in and out

16.2 m came in and 12 m went out. Overall I’m up by 4.2 m. I need to do more sewing next month to get back on the stash reduction train!