Pictures of Ålesund captivated me when I first saw them. Then, I did a treadmill run with Google images and was sold. The Art Noveau architecture made me really wanted to see the city, and when my husband and I were planning our Norwegian adventure, this is the city that stood out to me as a place where we should spend some time. So we did. We spent three nights in the lovely city as part of the first stop on our adventure.
Ålesund has an interesting history. Originally a small fishing village, the city grew into an important fishing and trading hub along Norway’s western coast thanks to its access to the Atlantic Ocean and surrounding fjords. Much of Ålesund was destroyed in a devastating fire in 1904. The city was then rebuilt in the popular Art Nouveau style of the time, which is why Ålesund looks so distinct today with its colorful buildings, ornate details, and unique architecture. It’s one of the most visually recognizable cities in Norway.
The city is picturesque being framed by the water and the mountains and it is very walkable. In fact, the city is more about the atmosphere and admiring the scenery and buildings than checking out tourist attractions.
Here’s what you can’t miss.
The View You Need to See: Mount Aksla
Walk up Mount Aksla. Yes, it’s a bit of a climb (418 steps, if you’re counting), but it is 100% worth it. From the top, you get that iconic panoramic view of Ålesund and its colorful Art Nouveau buildings. You’ll also see islands stretching out into the sea and mountains in the distance. You can access it from the Byparken Town Park which is also lovely.
If you’re debating whether to do it just go. Take your time, stop along the way, and enjoy it. If you don’t feel like walking or aren’t able to, you can take a taxi up there. The only somewhat disappointing thing was there was a large cruise ship in port when we were there and so you can see the boat in the photos. Some might not mind it and it wasn’t the end of the world, but I would have liked to have seen more of the serene atmosphere.
Visiting on Norwegian Constitution Day
We happened to be in Ålesund on May 17, which is Norway’s Constitution Day and it completely transformed the experience. I had no idea what to expect on this day, but was delighted to be able to experience it. In the days leading up to the holiday, we did notice buildings around town decorated with flags. Even potted plants had little flags decorating them. Local children had created drawings celebrating the holiday that were placed on the windows of one business.
The morning of we went down to breakfast at our hotel and it was packed with locals. Apparently, one tradition is to all go out and have a big breakfast before the parades. This is where we first noticed the locals dressed in traditional clothing called bunads. They were beautiful. The colors and style signify what part of Norway the person wearing it is from. Even socks have a meaning depending on the color for women – single or married. The clothing can also be passed down from generation to generation and is actually quite expensive. I have to say the detail and the craftmanship on the bunads was most impressive.
After breakfast, we walked around a bit and then got a space along the sidewalk for the parade to start. Everyone was out and about. It was a sunny beautiful day, but the people were happy and excited. The parade started, most groups featured children but there were also marching bands. The music and flags created such a joyful atmosphere. The parade continued throughout town. We actually saw some visitors on a Norwegian cruise line join in the parade. That was quite funny to watch.
After the parade, there was music and a little festival site, but many people went out to the waterfront cafes for lunch or drinks. We ended up going to a cafe for fish and chips after going up Mount Aksla.
We saw on TV later in the day recaps of celebrations elsewhere throughout Norway. It all looks so fun. Bergen had a big celebration. Even little villages carried flags in parades and had their own community celebrations. We also learned about the graduating high school students who dressed in track suits and handed out cards with their photos and funny (and sometimes inappropriate sayings) to local children. That was delightful too.
The entire day was so fun. I couldn’t stop smiling. We went for a long walk later in the day just down neighborhood streets. We could hear music being played in the houses and in gardens. I chuckled hearing tunes from Elvis and Jerry Lee Lewis’ “Great Balls of Fire.” The city felt alive in an authentic way, and if you ever have the chance to spend May 17 in Norway, I highly recommend it.
Wandering the Waterfront and Other Things to Do
One of the best things to do in Ålesund is honestly not having a plan. The waterfront area is lined with cafés, restaurants, and little spots where you can sit with a coffee or a beer or grab an ice cream and just take in the scenery. It’s calm, beautiful, and exactly what you want after a day of exploring.
I also highly recommend just admiring the Art Nouveau architecture. It’s more enjoyable than you might think. There is also a museum called Jugendstilsenteret and KUBE if you want to learn more. We saw a number of people kayaking as well. The town has the Atlantic Sea Park as well, but we didn’t visit.
Ålesund makes a great base for exploring Geiranger fjord which I’ll discuss in a separate post, but this is highly recommended.
Shopping and Souvenirs
If you’re looking for souvenirs, head toward the center of town. There are some really great shops with local Norwegian goods and unique items. I felt like Ålesund had the best number of and variety of souvenirs compared to anywhere else we went in Norway. Yes, they can be pricey, but everything in Norway is pricey. They did have shops open on the holiday as well which was helpful.
A Few Practical Things to Know
There are a couple of things that are helpful to know ahead of time especially if you’re coming from somewhere like the U.S.:
- Grocery stores are closed on Sundays. Plan ahead if you need snacks or basics.
- Alcohol sales are restricted. Grocery stores stop selling alcohol early (typically around 8 p.m.), and for wine or liquor, you’ll need to go to a government-run shop called Vinmonopolet. I should also point out that if you are in a grocery store and have been in your cart before 8 p.m., but don’t get to the checkout until 8 or after, you are out of luck. The computer systems won’t allow it to be rung up.
- I mentioned that Norway is expensive. I think a lot of people, myself included, underestimated this. Everyone says Switzerland is expensive and beautiful. This is true. But Norway says hold my beer. Norway is more beautiful and expensive than Switzerland. For example, in Switzerland I bought chocolate for around $2 USD and found beer for around 25 cents. In Norway, chocolate was a minimum of $3-3.50 and beer was usually around $3.50-$4. Eating out is much more expensive.
Getting From Ålesund Airport to Town
One of the nice things about visiting Ålesund is that the airport is relatively easy to get to from the city center. Ålesund Airport is located about 20 minutes from downtown by car, depending on traffic and weather. I’ve read you can take an airport bus directly into town which is more affordable if you don’t have a car, but we ended up taking a taxi because we had been traveling 24 plus hours. Taxis are expensive, and we had a very bad and questionable experience leaving our hotel going back to the airport.
Do not ever use a kiosk in the hotel to reserve a taxi. We asked our hotel about and they pointed to two kiosks to use. I think we may have picked the wrong one because our ride back to the airport was 3 times as expensive as what it was coming from the airport. It was insane and we were definitely overcharged. While we used Uber in Bergen, we didn’t find that Uber was available in Ålesund.
Where to Stay
For most travelers, staying near the waterfront or city center is the best option. That’s where you’ll find the most walkable access to restaurants, cafés, shops, and the main sights around town. Waking up near the harbor also gives you those classic Norway views right outside your window, with colorful buildings, boats, and mountains surrounding the city. We stayed at the Thon Hotel and had a lovely waterfront view. The location was walkable to what we needed and the breakfast was very good. I found the room to be comfortable, and would recommend it. There are also hotels and guesthouses slightly outside the center with more panoramic water views, but for a first visit, staying downtown makes exploring much easier.
Overall Thoughts
Between the views from Mount Aksla, the charm of the waterfront, and the chance to experience something like Constitution Day, it feels both relaxed and memorable at the same time. Walk, wander, stop for a photos, and take it all in. Ålesund really shines and is well-worth a couple a stop.
