The Cumbria Way—Day 4

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We were back on the Cumbria Way on day four, hiking from Dungeon Ghyll to Keswick, and it was probably our best day on the trail. I did 16 miles and Brodacious did 17 or so, due to my leaving his sunglasses on the desk in our hotel room back in Dungeon Ghyll. After discovering the glasses were missing, I sat down on the trail with our packs, while Brody ran back to Dungeon Ghyll.

As it turned out, I wouldn’t really need the sunglasses on day four. This was our one day of stormy weather. Once we’d gotten to Stake Pass, about three miles into our hike, the rain was coming down pretty hard and we were pulling out the rain gear. The rain even turned into hail for a little while, which was exciting because the trail on the Pass was being renovated and was a big muddy mess.

The Langstrath Valley on the other side of the pass was really beautiful to walk through, and luckily the rain had subsided by that point. We passed a few small villages and farms, stone fences, bridges, mounds of slate, mossy boulders, and the most gorgeous tree-lined paths along Derwentwater, the lake just south of Keswick.

Both of us really loved the town of Keswick and its surroundings. Keswick had a nice little market centre and a friendly pub where we had the best bowls of Hungarian goulash. We stayed in a small bed and breakfast on Southey Street (Robert Southey, author of the Three Bears being their claim to fame) run by a nice Scottish couple, where we had a fine bowl of porridge the next morning before getting back on the trail.

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The Cumbria Way—Day 3

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In order to fully enjoy the beauty of the Great Langdale Valley, we decided to give ourselves two nights in Dungeon Ghyll. On our second day there, we ventured off the Cumbria Way. I was secretly tempted to lounge all day in a comfy chair with my feet up, a book and some tasty home-cooked food (not trail food!) from the hotel. But I knew how excited Brodacious was to climb some of the nearby pikes, and I didn’t want to miss out myself. Rest and relaxation would wait.

Initially, the dream was to hike Scafell Pike on our day off. After consulting a couple of maps, though, we quickly decided it was too far from where we were staying, making it too big of an undertaking. We ended up hiking 14 miles through some of the other peaks closer to the trail—Bowfell and Crinkle Crags. It was a misty day, which was a nice change from the heat of the two previous days. There were sheep everywhere, even up on the highest peaks. We ended up being really happy that we had scheduled for this day off the trail. It was absolutely gorgeous and we had a lot of fun.

[click the images above for the full image set]

The Cumbria Way—Day 2

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At only thirteen miles, day two was our shortest trek the whole week. We started the day with a stop–off at the store to buy more bandages for our blistered feet. And by the second day I had become converted to using the trekking poles. I had been skeptical about the purchase, but Brodacious thought the poles would be a good idea, and one of my friends is a dedicated Nordic trekker and raved about how using the poles provides a better workout and increases your walking speed. The poles definitely ended up being one of our best purchases. They helped give sure footing through the streams and down the slopes, and took some of the pressure off my back and knees, which was no small thing after hours carrying a backpack.

The final stretch of day two, up the Great Langdale and down into the valley to Dungeon Ghyll, was absolutely gorgeous. This part of the Lake District, and the miles leading up to Keswick, were the best. We lodged at the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, which was a really nice hotel nestled in this beautiful, green valley. We stayed two nights so we could spend one entire day hiking through the surrounding hills. This was the part of the trip Brodacious was most looking forward to.

[click the images above for the full image set]

The Cumbria Way—Day 1

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Even though we have been back from the Lakes for over a month, we thought we’d better post pictures and a brief report on the trip for two reasons: first, to bring this blog back from the dead, and second, to fulfill our many promises of pictures and stories to friends and family.

Our trek began in Ulverston (famous as the birthplace of Laurel and Hardy), the southern start of the trail. Ulverston was kind of industrial, and not the most picturesque of towns, but we stayed in a nice little vegetarian B&B and spent a leisurely evening there before starting out on our hike. It had been unseasonably warm and dry in the Lake District in May, so the area wasn’t as green as expected. We hiked 16 miles the first day, to the town of Coniston. There were a few people who started out on the trail at the same time as us, and we ended up meeting them and exchanging friendly conversation several times over the next few days. The last couple of miles on this first day were the best, as the trail ran along the shore of Coniston Water and into town. The lake and the town were both beautiful. However, all we could do once we arrived (after showering and eating, of course) was flop down on the bed, stare at the ceiling, and wonder if we’d really have the energy to hike 71 more miles.

[click the images above for the full image set]

Packed!

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After weeks of planning, we are finally packed (20lbs. for Nerak and 22lbs. for Brodacious) and ready for the Cumbria Way. Our train leaves London in 2 hours! Then we will have 87 miles to go and 6 days to do it in. I’ll be packing my new Panasonic GF-1 so hopefully we will get some amazing pictures (and have good weather). In the meantime it will be great to be off the grid with no phones, no internet, music, movies, anything…just miles of trail, good conversation and maybe a good book.

The South Downs Way

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On the bank holiday last week, Nerak and I set out on a 15 mile hike along the South Downs Way. The hike was intended to be a training hike for our planned trip up the 75 mile Cumbria Way at the end of May. We had a great time and saw some beautiful coastal scenery and gorgeous green countryside. Is there anything more quaint and picturesque than the English countryside?

Building numbers

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Am I crazy for loving these building number luminaries you see all over Helsinki? I definately plan to get one of these and save it until we build a house of our own. Even Alvar Aalto’s home at Riihitie had one near the front entrance.

Bookworm

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This month, I’ve gotten into listening to episodes of KCRW’s Bookworm. From listening to public radio when I lived in LA, I was familiar with the program and the host Michael Silverblatt, but didn’t really tune in regularly. For some reason right now, though, the show has appealled to me. It’s been especially nice to listen to at times when I’m on my own at home. Some of the host’s questions are really involved and compelling, and it’s interesting to hear the authors’ respond. Very thought provoking. Today I listened to a recent episode with AS Byatt (pictured above) discussing The Children’s Book, which was particularly interesting to me because I just started reading this novel and, so far, am really enjoying it.

Bought my first pair of wellies this week

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Now we’ll see if I have them with me when I need them.

This week

Several days this week, I was laughing out loud on the bus as I was reading my way through the title essay in A Supposedly Fun Thing I’ll Never Do Again by David Foster Wallace. The topic of the essay: luxury cruising.

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While we were on vacation over the holidays, I enjoyed listening to music on the radio…primarily KCRW. Normally in London, I don’t listen to a whole lot of music, especially current music. But this week, I decided to track down some new things to listen to. New to me, anyway. I’ve been listening to xx and Lungs and really enjoying both albums. It makes me wish I could have music playing in the background through more of my days.