Tuesday, March 17, 2026

E. Guigal Cote Rotie Cote Brune et Blonde, 1990

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This is mature Northern Rbone Syrah at its best. Even from a 375 ml bottle at 36 years of age, it is drinking beautifully.

The color has lightened, of course, with brickish tones. And the smells and flavors are tertiary. Red and black fruits, savory, salty, meaty. Proper acidity: cured meats and grilled tomatoes. Light in body with a cool, silky texture. Nuanced flavors that keep growing through the meal. During my birthday month, I am drinking cellar treasures, and this is by far the best I have had so far.
 

Friday, March 13, 2026

Buena Vista Sonoma Valley Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon, 1978

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The 1970s was a good decade for wine--at home or across the ocean. For my birthday month, I have been drinking up some of the oldest wines in my cellar, and so far I have not been disappointed. The 1975 Fourcas Hosten Haut Medoc was shockingly good at 51 years; this Buena Vista Cabernet is even better at age 48. The appellation is Sonoma Valley rather than Napa but the vines were actually in the Sonoma portion of Carneros, now reserved mainly for Napa Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The cool climate has created  a Cabernet that is elegant, silky and clearly ageworthy.

The color has lightened with garnet/amber tones. The cork was sound and dry with wine stain less than a quarter of the way up from the bottom of the cork. I bought the wine soon after release at the old Sam's Wine store near the subway on North Streetr in Chicago. $11.95 says the sticker, a markdown from $13.95. Smells and flavors are glorious after all that time in the bottle. Ripe strawberry, red currants,  sweet spices. Could easily be mistaken for a mature Pinot Noir. No tannin but enough acid to brighten the flavors. I'm sure the wine was even better 10 years ago, but tonight I have no complaints.

Tuesday, March 10, 2026

Fourcas Hosten Haut Medoc Listrac, 1975

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Yes, 51 years is a long time for a wine to be in a bottle, but this is one of the rare few that have made it that long in good shape. But 53 years is a long time for a couple to be married, and that marriage is doing even better. The 1975 Fourcas Hosten, served wih lamb shanks, proved to be a good anniversary wine.

On a small tasting pour, the color is medium light with amber creeping in from the edges. But on a full pour, it is almost opaque! Lifted bouquet with a touch of mint and herbs. Sweet Cabernet and Merlot flavors on a savory, slightly salty background. Not soft but no obstructive tannins. Red fruit acidity keeps it fresh and lively. 

1975 was a very backward vintage in Bordeaux and critics worried that the fruit would not outlast the tannins. As the Village Corner salesman told me,  this wine, selling for only $9.95, was an exception. "Just give it time," he said. And I did.
 

Sunday, March 8, 2026

Carpe Diem Anderson Valley Chardonnay, 2019

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This is my last bottle of Carpe Diem, and I think I seized the day fairly accurately. It has beautiful Chardonnay flavors but has deepened in color and beginning to show its age.

Medium deep gold. Showing a maturity that I like in a Chardonnay. Pear, citrus, flowers. Lively on the tongue with a fine array of flavors on the finish.Some Chardonnays are best at 3 to 5 years; some at 5 to 7 and a few (very few) will last 10 years or longer.  I rank this one in the mid-range and would gladly go back for more from a recent vintage
 

Thursday, March 5, 2026

Trader Joe's Platinum Reserve Bersano Estate Nizza Lot 117, 2019

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Nizza is Barbera at its finest. The appellation includes ony18 villages in Monferrato that was, according to the label, "the historic home of Barbera." Soil and climate are perfect, vines have a classic ancestry that defines Barbera. 

Dark ruby, bright and clear. Has been aged 30 months, at least 12 of which were in wood. From the aromas and flavors, I would say that some of the wood was new. Vibrant red cherry with leather tones. Layered flavors, nuanced and complex. Medium body, bright acidity. Silky texture. I bought this last year for $14.99; the 2020 vintage is now on the shelves for $15.99--still an excellent value.
 

Sunday, March 1, 2026

Terramata Barbera d'Alba, 2017

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This is the last bottle of a case that I bought on close-out for $60 at MegaBev (formerly Russo's) in Grand Rapids. At nine years of age it is showing no decline whatsoever.

Medium deep ruby. Dark cherries, anise, maybe a touch of vanilla. I believe this has seen some new oak but it is highlighting rather than dominating the smells and flavors. Medium deep body. Barbera acidity. Long ripe fruit finish.
 

Friday, February 27, 2026

Reserve del Puech Cotes du Rhone, 2022

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Cotes du Rhone wines were eminently drinkable and affordable in the 1980s and 1990s. Times have changed and it is now hard to find a CDR for less than $15. I found this Reserve del Puech for $8.99 at MegaBev  (formerly Russo's) in Grand Rapids, and it satisfies my longing for the wines of yesteryear.

Medium deep ruby, bright and clear. 60% Grenache and it shows its face: strawberries, red raspberries, ripe cherries. 30% Syrah for color, body and weight. 10% Cinsault for that spicy, peppery flavor. Ripe enough to drink easily with no hard edges. Enough acid and tannin for structure and complexity. For the price, I should have bought more.