March 9, 2026 · 1:35 am

Tasting Collio Pinot Grigio

On our recent visit to Rome I was contacted by Federica Schir, Head of the Collio Consortium’s Press Office who invited Michele and I to a tasting of Pinot Grigio from Collio. I have enjoyed tasting many fine wines with Federica and it’s always a pleasure to see her again. Federica said that Lavinia Zamaro, Director of the Collio Consorzio, who I had met on a previous trip to the region would also join us.

Lavinia Zamaro and Federica Schir

The tasting was held at my favorite wine bar in Rome, L’Angolo DiVino.

We tasted 6 Pinot Grigios from the 2024 vintage in the Collio region and discussed them.

Collio is a crescent-shaped sub region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia in the province of Gorizia enclosed between the Judrio and Isonzo Rivers. It is right up against the Slovenian border. The area consists of a total of 7,000 hectares with a strong biodiversity, of which 1,300 hectares are vineyards. The vines are located in the municipalities of Gorizia, Capriva, Cormòns, Dolegna del Collio, Farra d’Isonzo, Mossa, San Floriano del Collio and Isonzo San Lorenzo.

The soil, known as Ponca, is made of stratified marl and sandstone of Eocene origin. It crumbles in the hand revealing tiny fossils. The hills of Collio originate from the rising of the sea bottom. The soil makes wines with characteristic minerality and salinity. These are unique wines from a unique soil which are unmistakable for their taste and aroma. Collio is known for its complex and structured white wines.

Pinot Grigio is derived from the bud mutation of Pinot Noir. It takes its name from the gray-pink color of the grape skin. It has a straw-yellow color with fleeting grayish reflections and an intense, distinctive bouquet. Pinot Grigio is an international variety and the most planted white grape in Collio, but has been losing acreage as it has been replaced slowly by Malvasia and Ribolla Gialla.

The 2024 vintage for Collio Pinot Grigio is of high-quality, resulting in concentrated, aromatic, and structured wines with higher alcohol levels with notes of ripe pear, melon, and citrus with a distinct mineral, salty, finish.

Collio Pinot Grigio MAGNAS Made from 100% Pinot Grigio planted in 1990 in Cormòns and Murzù area. The training system is Guyot and there are 4,500 vines per hectare. There is manual harvesting during the first 10 days of September. A gentle pressing of the grapes is followed by alcoholic fermentation at a controlled temperature. Aging is on the lees for about six months in stainless steel tanks. The wine was bottled in April. It has a straw-yellow color with fleeting grayish reflections and an intense, distinctive bouquet. Dry on the palate, aromatic, smooth and pleasant, with notes of honey and peach. Soft and long on the finish, with a full character.

Pinot Grigio DOC Collio “Villa Canlungo” Collavini made from 100% Pinot Grigio from San Floriano del Collio, Gorizia, Cormòns and Mossa. The training system is cordon spur and Guyot and there are 4,500 to 5,000 vines per hectare. Terraced vineyards with southern exposure and “ponca” soils—friable marlstone that retains moisture. Grapes are hand harvested in September. There is a short maceration on the skins at a low temperature. Alcoholic fermentation is in temperature controlled stainless steel vats with natural yeast for about two weeks at a temperature of 14C to 16C. This is an elegant and well balanced wine has hints of citrus fruit, lemon, tangerine, a hint of pear and a touch of apple. Collavini was founded in 1896 and is still family run.

Collio DOC Pinot Grigio Ronco Blanchis made from 100% Pinot Grigio from estate vineyards in Ronco Blanchis, Mossa and Gorizia. The training system is Guyot and there are 4,830 vines per hectare and the average age of the vines is 15 years. The soil is composed of grey and yellowish eocene marl with a meager amount of sandstone. Harvest is in the middle of September. There is white wine vinification with a gentle pressing of the whole bunch. Fermentation in stainless steel tanks. This is an elegant, well-structured wine with hints of citrus fruit, Meyer lemon, peach, a touch of pear and a note of flint.

Collio Pinot Grigio Battistutta made from 100% Pinot Grigio from estate vineyards. The grapes are hand harvested the first week of September. The grapes are destemmed and after a light maceration the grapes are gently pressed. The must obtained is clarified by natural settling. Alcoholic fermentation is started with selected yeasts at a controlled temperature. This is a smooth, elegant wine with hints of citrus fruit, pear, apple and floral notes.

Pinot Grigio Ronco Scagnet made from 100% Pinot Grigio from the DOC Collio area. Crushing and destemming of the grapes is followed by a soft pressing. After 24 hours, the coarser lees are separated out and then fermentation at a controlled temperature of 18C. Aging is for about 6 months on the fermented lees without racking. The wine has hints of golden delicious apple, melon, citrus fruit and pear.

Coldigrotta Pinot Grigio Ramato (coppery) made from 100% Pinot Grigio located in Farra d’Isonzo (Gorizia). The soil is sandstone of oceanic origin and the training system is espalier guyot. The average age of the vines is 30 years. Manual harvest takes place the first and third week of September. Fermentation with selected yeasts takes place at 18-20C and lasts for 12 days. The wine is certified organic. This is a copper-hued “orange” wine, dry, complex and well- structured with hints of cantaloupe melon, quince and cherry wood.

After we tasted the wines, Lavinia told us about an upcoming event called “Collio Evolution 2026: Beyond the Variety—From Soil to Glass: The Identity-driven Essence of Pinot Grigio.” This is the second edition of the Collio Evolution and it returns to Cormons on October 25th to 26. The event will include a technical tasting and walk-around tasting for the press, trade professionals, and opinion leaders.

For more information contact: Presso Office of Consorzio Tutela Vini Collio. Federica Schir PR + 39 389 9425510

info@federicaschir-pr.com-federica@federicaschir-pr.com

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February 26, 2026 · 1:26 am

L’Angolo DiVino my Favorite Wine Bar in Rome

L’Angolo Divino is a wine bar just off the Campo dei Fiori in Rome. Michele and I discovered it over 20 years when she was researching an article she was writing for the Wine Spectator magazine. It became one of our favorites because it is one of the few places in Rome where you can both drink and eat very well. For many years, I would choose the wine but now I like to let the owner, Massimo Crippa, choose for me. He knows the style of wine I like and will bring out 3 or 4 different wines for me to consider. I know I can count on him to recommend something interesting to try.

Cheese plate — Massimo always has an interesting assortment of cheeses available.

Salumi — We always order the salumi assortment. This one included prosciutto, smoked culatello, mortadella and bresaola.

Soup — Our friend ordered the chick pea soup which was very good.

Vallee d’Aosta Donnas DOC 2020 Caves de Donnas 2020 made from 90% Nebbiolo Pictendo grapes (which are small and tender) 5% Freisa and 5% Neyret from the municipalities of Donnas, Pont-Saint Martin, Perloz and Brad. The wine is aged for at least 12 months in large 25hl barrels. This is a wine with hints of cherry and raspberry, spice, and a touch of leather. Very easy and approachable wine but it can age. It went very well with the food and we all enjoyed it. The wine is made by a cooperative.

Ravioli Stuffed with Sheep’s Ricotta and Spinach in Sage Butter

Aglianico del Vulture “le drude” DOCG Superiore 2014 Azienda Agricola Alluce. Le Drude was the name given by Piedmontese soldiers to the bandits’ wives in Basilicata after unification. This wine was created in honor of their courage. Made from 100% Aglianico del Vulture grapes. The soil is calcareous, clayey. It is magma rich of volcanic origin. Vinification is in stainless steel at a controlled temperature. It is the only Aglianico del Vulture DOCG to be aged for two years in large oak barrels. It is then aged in bottle for 12 months before release. This is a complex wine with hints of blueberries, blackberries, and currants. It is a wine that will age.

Polpettine — Classic meatballs in Tomato Sauce

Coda alla Vaccinara — A Roman classic, oxtail in a spicy tomato sauce.

Dessert was a Crostata di Visciole, a simple tart filled with sour cherry jam.

L’Angolo DiVino has a large selection of Grappa, dessert wines, and digestivi, after lunch/dinner drinks.

Traditional Grappa

Marsala

Cerasa, a locally made red wine flavored with cherries.

As always, I enjoyed my visit to L’Angolo Di Vino and look forward to returning again soon.

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February 16, 2026 · 4:37 am

Da Attilio — Naples Pizza At Its Best

Napoli, they say, is the birthplace of pizza. Though the ingredients and styles have changed over the centuries, Napoli is still the best place to get great pizza.

Michele and I have been visiting the city since 1970 and we have tried all kinds of pizza. Our favorites change from time to time and while we enjoy going back to old favorites, we also like to try new-to-us pizzerias recommended by friends. One pizzeria we currently enjoy is Da Attilio, located in the Pignasecca neighborhood.

We try to go early because there is always a line outside.

The pizzaiolo is Attilio Bachetti and on a recent night he was making the pizza, as he often does.

The dough is simple and straightforward, using the classic Mulino Caputo blue flour. Only the best and freshest toppings are used.

We started with crocche, potato croquettes.

The croquettes consisted of mashed potatoes flavored with provola cheese and fried in a coating of crunchy breadcrumbs.

Michele had the Pizza Marinara, topped with a simple tomato sauce, sliced garlic, fresh basil and dried oregano.

Our friend, Stefano, had the Pizza Carrettiera topped with provola, Benevento sausage and broccoli rabe.

I usually have the Margarita but decided this time to have something different.

Pizza Carnevale is Attilio’s specialty. The eight points of the crust are stuffed with fresh, velvety ricotta cheese. The central toppings are inspired by the traditional Neapolitan carnival lasagna — tomato sauce, fior di latte (cow’s milk mozzarella), pork sausage, and pecorino cheese.

The recipe for Pizza Carnevale dates back to at least 1944. Attilio Bachetti reintroduced it after finding the recipe on a menu from his grandfather’s era. Da Attilio has been a family owned restaurant since 1938.

If you are planning a visit to Napoli, be sure to give Da Attilio a try.

Via Pignasecca, 17, Napoli, in the historic Pignasecca area near via Toledo.

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January 26, 2026 · 3:12 am

Pecorino Romano–A Versatile Cheese

Pecorino Romano DOP is a cheese made from sheep’s milk. This cheese can only be made on the Island of Sardinia which produces 95% of the production, the region of Lazio on the Italian mainland, and the province of Grosseto in Tuscany which accounts for 5% of the production.

Last week, a press conference was held at restaurant Bucatini in NYC sponsored by the Consorzio per la Tutela del Formaggio Pecorino Romano.

The authenticity of Pecorino-Romano cheese is indicated by the Protected Denomination of Origin mark.

Robert Campana, founder of Stop Italian Sounding, an organization dedicated to helping to create the brand identity of Italian food and beverage companies, introduced the event.

Gianni Maoddi, President of the Consorzio per la Tutela del Formaggio Pecorino Romano, spoke about the history of the cheese, its production and world wide distribution. The US is the biggest market for the cheese and 60% of the production is sold here. For more information about Pecorino Romano, see https://charlesscicolone.wordpress.com/category/peccorino-romano/

After Mr. Maoddi’s presentation, Emilia D’Albero, the first American to win the prestigious title of “World’s Best Cheesemonger” at the Mondial du Fromage (2025) in France, spoke. She told us about her training to become a cheesemonger and the challenges she faced in France order to win the title. Over the course of 2 days, Emilia competed against 18 other challengers representing 14 countries around the world. The competition included a blind tasting and identification of various cheeses, creating recipes and cheese displays.

She then led us in a tasting of Pecorino Romano speaking about the color, bouquet and taste of the cheese.

Though Pecorino Romano often is sold grated, it is always best to purchase a wedge and grate it yourself because it is fresher and more flavorful.

Next we tried a creative appetizer of dried apricots stuffed with Pecorino Romano and drizzled with honey.

Pecorino Romano has always been tariff-free here in the US because there is no large scale sheep cheese production in this country. Recently, however, the current administration levied a 15% tariff on it. This would add 25,000,000 Euros to the cost of bringing the cheese into the US and the Pecorino Romano Consorzio is working to get this tariff reversed.

A buffet dinner featuring a range of dishes with Pecorino Romano followed the presentation.

Arancini — Cheesey rice balls.

Penne Pasta with Pecorino Romano and Tomato Sauce

Chicken Stuffed with Pecorino Romano

With the food we drank a Brunello di Montalcino

Pecorino Romano is often used as a topping for pasta, but this tasting showed that there are a multitude of other ways to enjoy it.

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January 15, 2026 · 3:11 am

OLD WINES WELCOME THE NEW YEAR

Thanks to the kindness of friends, since the beginning of the New Year I have been able to drink a number of older Italian wines and one French wine paired with excellent food.

Barolo 1979 Marcarini made from 100% Nebbiolo. This wine was made when legendary Elvio Cogno was the winemaker. Some of the best classic traditional wines that it has been my pleasure to drink were produced by Cogno. When I visited the Marcarini winery in 1985, I spoke with him and he said he made a better Barolo in 1979 than in 1978! This is a classic Barolo with flavors and aromas of faded roses, licorice, tar, tobacco, a hint of cherry and a slight touch of white truffles.

We had it with Braised Black Lentils with Cotechino. This is a classic dish to celebrate the New Year in Italy. Cotechino is a delicately spiced pork sausage encased in pork skin which gives it a rich flavor and creamy texture unlike other sausages.

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 1985 Emidio Pepe 100% Montepulciano D’Abruzzo. The winery is organic and Bio-Dynamic. They belong to the Triple “A” Agriculture Artisans Artists. Both the tendone method and the cordon spur method are used for training the vines. In vintages when the weather is very hot the tendone method is better because the leaves form a canopy to protect the grapes from the sun. When the weather is not too hot, the cordon spur is better because it allows more sun and air to reach the grapes. One hectare of tendone has 900 vines and produces 90 quintals of grapes. That means that each vine produces from 6 to 9 kilos of grapes. In one hectare of cordon spur trained grapes there are 3,300 vines and each vine produces 5 to 6 kilos of grapes. The grapes are crushed by hand and the juice placed in glass-lined cement tanks of 20/25 liters. Only natural yeasts are used, there is no filtration or fining. The wine is transferred to the bottle by hand and the corks are placed in the bottles by hand. This is a a great wine with deep red fruit aromas and flavors with hints of cherry, spice, leather a touch of tobacco and a trace of smoke. We drank it with Bucatini all’ Amatriciana. A classic from Rome and Abruzzo, thick strands of bucatini pasta are sauced with rich tomato sauce made with guanciale, sharp pecorino cheese and a hint of chile.

Burgundy 2002 Meursault-Charmes 1er Cru (On the Cote de Beaune) Robert Ampeau & Fils made from 100% Chardonnay. 2002 was a great vintage in Burgundy. This is old style Burgundy. The wine are aged for years in the cellars before release. This not only gives them incredible complexity but makes them ready to drink on release. There is natural ground cover in the vineyard. In the winery there is a minimal use of new oak. The fermenters are concrete which gives the wine a certain depth and purity. This is a complex rich wine with hints of white peach, pineapple, baked apple, creme brûlée, honey. citrus and a touch of almonds. A very impressive white wine.

I had it with grilled jumbo shrimp served on a bed of spinach and white beans flavored with garlic. Simple and delicious.

Barolo Antico 1996 Giacomo Borgogno This Barolo in made with Nebbiolo grapes from the vineyard identified in the local land registry as parcel number 81 of the ninth sheet of the Commune of Barolo. This vineyard, part of the Liste area, was the first one acquired by the house of Borgogno whose origin dates back to 1761. It is a particular sunny site and thanks to its own special microclimate the fruit is the last to be picked every year. This selection is made only in truly great vintages is produced in strictly limited quantities (around 4,00 bottles). For this presentation the winery went back to the historic label which was in used during the second half of the 17th century. This bottle is #3,320. Classic Barolo with hints of of dark fruit, cherry, licorice and touch a spice and a note of roses.

We had it with roasted pork loin, green beans, red cabbage and roast potatoes.

Barbaresco “Ovello” 1996 Produttori del Barbaresco made from 100% Nebbiolo. The Ovello vineyard covers an area of 16.25 acres at 290 meters with a south/southeastern exposure. The 1996 Ovello Riserva, has on the label the name of the single vineyard, the number of bottles produced (18,145) and the names of the vineyard owners: Cravanzola, Gonella, Maffei, Vacca, Varaldo. The wine was aged in large barrels of Slavonic oak for four years. It has hints of black raspberries, cherries, leather, tea and a touch of spice. It was showing very well and will age for a number of years. .Produttori del Barbaresco is a wine cooperative, arguably the best in Italy. This is traditional classic Barbaresco at its best.

We had it with sweet and hot Italian sausages roasted with peppers, potatoes and onions,

Barolo 1967 Oddero made from 100% Nebbiolo. This wine was drinking very well and despite its age, it seemed like a much younger wine. It had hints of red fruit, cherry, a note of spice and a touch or tobacco.

We had this with Chinese food including Stir fried chicken with cashew nuts and green peppers

Two days later we opened another bottle of the 1967 and it was not drinkable.

Barolo “ Marcenasco” 1970 Ratti. Antica Cantina Della Abbazia dell’ Annunziata. Marcenasco is a historic sub-zone in La Morra. The wine was aged in large oak casks of 2,500 liters to 5,000 liters, It has hints of spice, licorice, tobacco and dried herbs. It was drinkable but really showing its age.

We had it with cheese. On the left is a wedge of 4 year old Red Cow Parmigiano-Reggiano, the center piece is a 2-year old Brown Cow Parmigiano-Reggiano and the wedge on the right is a young pecorino Toscano.

Barolo 1964 Calissano Riserva Speciale the wine had hints of mushrooms, tea, sage, and herbs. Unfortunately the winery no longer exists.

We had it with our starter of fried pork dumplings at a Chinese restaurant and it went very well.

Chinese fried pork dumplings

Marsala Vergine Secco Riserva “Terre Arse” 1998 Florio made from 100% Grillo. The soil is arid, scarcely fertile of siliceous-calcareous origin. Vineyards facing the sea near the beach with typical Marsala bush-trained vines with density of at least 5,000 plants per hectare. Harvest is by hand, advanced ripening, during the last week of September. Pressing of the grapes with a high sugar content to pass the precious substances found in the skins to the must. Fermentation at controlled temperature and blend of the resulting wine with wine distillate according to the Marsala Vergine tradition (Fortified Wine). The wine is aged for at least 10 years in ancient oak barrels and at least two years in bottle before release. This is a dry balanced wine with hints of bitter almonds, burnt honey, a touch of caramel and a hint of licorice. This is a very impressive wine with a finish that goes on and on.

We had it with panettone and it was the perfect combination.

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December 29, 2025 · 3:51 am

The Perfect Christmas Dinner

Michele and I always look forward to Christmas dinner with Tom Maresca and Diane Darrow. For a number of years it has been our tradition to invite Tom and Diane to our house for Thanksgiving dinner, and they have us to their home for Christmas. They are excellent and adventurous cooks. Tom has a great wine collection and will try to find the perfect wine match each course. Though all of our previous holiday celebrations have been wonderful, it seemed to be extra-special this year.

Champagne John Charles Ricciuti Premier Cru Réserve NV made from 50% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 10% Meunier. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and aging is in steel tanks. Residual sugar is7g/l and the alcohol is 12 %. The wine has hints of apple, ginger with a hint of pear and a touch of lemon.

A plate of freshly baked gougeres accompanied the Champagne along with slices of felino salami, nuts and olives.

At the table, we enjoyed a first course of individual leek and mascarpone tartlets, but I forgot to take a picture!

Beaune Boucherottes Premier Cru 2012 made from 100% Pinot Noir. ”Les Boucherottes” is a premier cru vineyard at the southern edge of Beaune, bordering Pommard, with deep clay soils adding lushness and power. 2012 was a high-quality, small-yield vintage in Burgundy, known for concentrated wines. This is a serious wine with hints of dark cherry, raspberries , strawberry, and a touch of leather. This wine will last for a number of years.

Perfectly cooked prime rib of beef was the star of the evening, accompanied by sauteed mushrooms, green beans, and potato gratin.

Roast ready to serve. Tom carved it to order.

On the plate

Grignolino delle Langhe 1979 Cavallotto Made from 100% Grignolino.

In 2017 I tasted Grignolino of the Monferrato Casalese “Bricco del Bosco Vigne Vecchie “ 2011 Giulio Accornero & Figli made from 100% Grignolino at the home of wine writer Daniele Cernilli, aka Doctor Wine. Most Grignolino is meant to be drunk young, within one or two years of production, so I was surprised at how well this wine had held up and I really enjoyed it.

The 1979 vintage Grignolino that Tom served was further proof that Grignolino can age. With its spicy notes, and flavor of raspberries, pomegranate, rhubarb and a touch of smoke it was a revelation. An amazing wine!!

A selection of cheeses to savor with the Barolo

Barolo 2004 Marchese di Barolo Nebbiolo grapes coming from the best crus of the municipality of Barolo. Grapes harvested in Cannubi, Sarmassa, Coste di Rose, Vignane, Preda, Boschetti and Ravera contribute to the production of the wine. The soil is rich in clay with some silt, sand and limestone. Harvested by hand, a selection of the best bunches is made in the vineyard. Each cru is vinified separately: the destemmed and pressed grapes ferment at a controlled temperature in stainless steel fermenters. The maceration on the skins lasts approximately 15 days during which pumping the must over the pomace cap favors maximum extraction of the polyphenolic substances contained within the skin. After malolactic fermentation, the individual wines obtained from the different crus are blended. The refinement of Barolo from the municipality of Barolo lasts approximately 2 years, of which the first year half of the volume is stored in small French oak barrels and the remaining half in 30 hl Slavonian oak barrels; while the second year the entire volume is brought together and the maturation ends in large traditional Slavonian oak barrels. The wine has hints of red berries, cherry, raspberry, roses, violets, licorice and a touch of leather

Michele provided one of the desserts, a pear and almond tart.

Diane’s Christmas Cookie selection included Toll House, Peanut Butter, Granadinas and Ciambellini al Vino.

Thanks to Tom and Diane for another wonderful Christmas dinner.

Happy New Year!

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December 23, 2025 · 2:47 am

All that Sparkles for the New Year

Whether you choose White, Rosè, or Red, Dry or Sweet, Spumante or Champagne, sparkling wine adds a festive note to every holiday get together. Here are some that you might enjoy.

Conegliano Prosecco Superiore DOCG Rive di Ogliano Brut Natural 2022 BiancaVigna made from 100% Glera from vineyards at 150 to 180 meters. The soil is clayey, limestone and rocky clay. Estate-owned vineyards are located in Ogliano. Named after the “Riva di Ogliano,” the steep hill where the grapes used to make this wine grow. Harvest is in the middle of September. Prise de mousse (sparkling process): the second fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks (cuvée close) at controlled temperatures with indigenous selected yeasts and lasts 150 days. Tartaric stabilization at low temperature. Bottle refinement for three months before release. This is a complex wine with hints of green apple, pear, peach, stone fruits and floral notes. Alcohol: 11.5. Residual Sugar 1.5 g/l. $23

Caprettone Spumante Method Classico 100% Caprettone CasaSetaro Production zone Alto Tirone, Vesuvius National Park in the region of Campania. The age of the vineyards is 18 to 25 years. They are at 350 meters and the training system is espalier, guyot trained with a few buds per plant. Vinification: maceration at 4C in steel tanks, fermentation for 18 to 24 days, the second fermentation takes place after about six months. The wine remains on the lees for 30 months and remains in bottle for about 12 months before release. The Caprettone grape is excellent for making Spumante method classico because it has very good body and produces a round and elegant wine.$25

Ferrari Brut NV Methodo Classico 100% Chardonnay. Trento DOC. The grapes are picked by hand at the end of August and beginning of September. They come from various communes in the Val d’Adige, Val di Cembra and Valle dei Laghi. The vineyards are between 300 and 600 meters above sea level, with southeast or southwest exposure. The wine is aged for at least 24 months on the lees. Selected yeast from Ferrari’s own cultures are used. The wine has hints of apples, wildflowers and a delicate touch of brioche and undertones of ripe citrus fruit. $30

Durello 36 Riserva Extra Brut Metodo Classico DOC made from 85% Lessini Durello and 15% Pinot Noir Sandro Bruno. The soil is volcanic with basaltic rocks. The vineyard is 4 hectares with a southern exposure at 500 meters. The vines are 35 years old. The vineyards are cultivated without the use of pesticides. Manual harvest takes place the 3rd week of September. There is a selection of grapes followed by a soft pressing in a nitrogen saturation at a low temperature. Fermentation is in steel tanks for both grapes. After fermentation the lees are preserved by performing weekly batonnage for 8 months. Sugars 1g/l. The wine remains on its own yeast for 36 months. It ages in bottle for 6 more months before release. This is an intense wine with mineral aromas. The wine has hints of white flowers, pear, almonds and a note of lemon. $28

Franciacorta DOCG Extra Brut 2018 Vintage Collection Ca’ del Bosco (Lombardia) made from 65% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Bianco and 30% Pinot Nero from 27 certified organic vineyards. Grapes are hand harvested and each individual bunch is washed and dried. Fermentation takes place for 5 months in oak barrels. The wine remains on the yeasts for an average of 48 months. This is an elegant wine with hints of citrus fruit, apple and pear lemon and a touch of pineapple. One of my favorites. $66

Champagne Boizel Ultime Zero made from 50% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 10% Meunier and 30% is reserve wines. Produced only from grapes selected for their high level of maturity. Dosage Zero No dosage is used to give the wine greater roundness at the end of the crafting process and all the attention is focused on obtaining a very pure and subtle harmony. The wine is aged on the lees for 5 years. It is a complex Champagne fully developed with hints of peaches, white flowers, gingerbread, lightly toasted almonds and good acidity. $49

Champagne Ruinart Brut Rosé NV made from 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay from Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards. About 18% of the Pinot Noir added is still wine. It has red fruit aromas and flavors with hints of raspberries and strawberries. $119

Otto Uve, Gragnano della Penisola Sorrentina DOC Made from 60% Piedirosso, Aglianico, and Sciascinoso, and 40% Suppezza, Castagnara, Serbegna, Olivella and Sauca. The eight grape varieties in the blend give this wine its name. It is a tribute to the lesser known grapes of the area. The training system is espalier. The vineyard is at 300 meters. Harvest began on September 24th and ended on October 8th. The grapes were hand harvested into boxes of 20 kg. After destemming and crushing, maceration with the skins lasted for 5 days, soft pressing of the grapes in a pneumatic press and fermentation in temperature controlled tanks at about 20C. The wine was bottled in the beginning of December. It should be served chilled and drunk within two years after bottling. It is a slightly frizzante red wine $18

Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce IGP ‘RossoViola’ (ruby red in color) 2020 Luciano Saetti made from 100% Salamino di Santa Croce. The vines are 40 years old and the training system is guyot and spalliera. Soil is deep grey clay, sand and silt. Harvest is manual. Grapes are crushed and the resulting spontaneous fermented must goes into steel tanks at a controlled temperature. The alcoholic fermentation process is concluded without the grapes being pressed. The sediment falls spontaneously to the bottom of the tank, avoiding any micro-filtering. The spring after a second fermentation takes place in the bottle initiated by the addition of grape must at a controlled pressure and temperature. It is fermented to dryness. After refinement that takes at least four months, the bottles are hand riddled and disgorged. The date of this operation is shown on the back label (complete with day, month and year). The wine has hints of violets and red berries with sweet spice notes and a touch of plums. Organic certified. No sulfur is added to the wines. $21

Moscato d’ Asti DOCG Tre Secoli made from 100% Moscato. There is a soft pressing of the grapes followed by a fermentation in temperature controlled autoclaves. Sugar level is 120 G/L and the alcohol is 5%. The wine has hints of fresh fruit, white peach, apricot and ginger. $12

Asti DOCG Millesimato Cuvage Dolce 2018 made from 100% Moscato. The vineyards are at 250 to 400 meters. Grapes are harvested the first week of September. After pressing the clusters and cold static decantation, inoculation of the selected yeasts takes place with fermentation up to 5.5 degrees alcohol. Maturation of the Cuvèe is for several months in stainless steel on its own yeasts. Maturation on the lees for a minimum of 18 months and 6 months in the bottle before release. Undosed: 100g/l this sugar is the result of the natural sweetness of the must, nothing has been added. The wine has hints of brioche, freshly baked bread, white flowers, and acacia with a hint of vanilla and a touch of pepper. $19. A few months ago I went to a tasting of Asti Spumante at a Japanese restaurant and it worked with the sushi.

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Filed under Asti, Asti Spumante, Champagne, Moscato d'Asti, Sparkling wine, Spumante

December 16, 2025 · 3:04 am

Michelin Guide Now to Rate Wineries

Recently, the renowned Michelin Guide announced that they would be publishing a new guide devoted to wines. But their new rating system does not apply to individual wines, but to the wineries themselves. This raises a lot of questions about their system and how it will affect the wine industry which Daniele Cernilli, aka Doctor Wine, discusses at length. Read his article on the subject below.

Michelin-starred wineries

by Daniele Cernilli, 15 December 2025

The arrival of Michelin in the wine guide industry introduces a “starred” rating system applied to wineries and not to individual wines. A choice that opens up questions: how will wineries with large productions be evaluated? How will this method be reconciled with those who have been using stars for years? And what role will The Wine Advocate, already acquired by Michelin, play?

Michelin launches wine guide: starred wineries

The news of recent times in the wine world is that of Michelin’s descent into the field.
The “redhead” will publish a wine guide, using its well-known “stars,” but not rating individual wines, but rather wineries. They will be “starred” in the same way that restaurants are, rating them with zero, one, two or three stars, while individual wines will be considered like dishes in the restaurant guide.

Stars in wine: a story from afar

I would then add that Michelin, which was definitely the first to use star rating for restaurants, is not at all for wines.
Veronelli began in the 1960s with the Bolaffi Catalogue of the Wines of Italy, where stars were used on wines.
Continued Gambero Rosso and Slow Food on Wines of Italy, where for every ten “three glasses” a star was awarded to the winery this time.

Even DoctorWine for the past twelve years has been using stars in exactly the way Michelin will do, awarding “three stars” to wineries and not to wines, rated in cents and “veneers.”

A possible “pre-use” conflict?

What will the “redhead” do in the presence of a kind of “pre-use right”?
Will you open litigation or, more appropriately, pay no attention?
Certainly DoctorWine’s Three Stars has been around for a long time and may even become a publication, who knows.

What role will The Wine Advocate?

Then, Michelin had not taken over The Wine Advocate by Robert Parker? What role will that publication play in the future? Of course, it is a newsletter and not a guide, however, always wine is being talked about and always Michelin is the publisher.
We shall see in this case, too, evidently.

Michelin-starred wineries are wineries rated using a star system, similar to that used for restaurants. The guide assigns zero to three stars to wineries, considering the overall quality of production and not individual wines.

How the Michelin-starred winery system works:

Stars are awarded to wineries, not individual wines.
The rating ranges from zero to three stars.
Wines are examined as part of the winery’s overall production.
The goal is to make a judgment about the overall level of the company.

What does Michelin rate in wineries?

Consider the overall quality of production, the consistency of the wines, and the winery’s ability to maintain high standards over time.

Why does Michelin award stars to wineries and not to wines?

Because the focus of the guide is on the overall level of the company, similar to the approach used for restaurants.

Is it possible for a large company to be penalized?

Yes, because a very large production sometimes includes ranges intended for less prestigious segments, making it more difficult to achieve the highest score.

Is Michelin the first to apply stars to wine?

No. Stars were used as early as the 1960s by Veronelli and more recently by others such as DoctorWine.

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Filed under Daniele Cernilli, Daniele Cernilli Doctor Wine

December 1, 2025 · 3:07 am

Reopening Mozzarella and Vino in NYC

Anyone who has followed my blog knows that one of my very favorite Italian restaurants in NYC is Il Gattopardo. Now the owners of Il Gattopardo have opened, or I should say reopened, their more casual location known as Mozzarella & Vino which had been closed for renovations for some time.

Located on the ground floor of a 5-story townhouse on West 54th Street just down the street from Il Gattopardo, Mozzarella & Vino is directly across the street from the Museum of Modern Art. It’s a long narrow space that has been given a fresh airy look.

Vito Gnazzo, Chef Partner, and Paula Bolla Sorrentino, Managing Partner

Another dining area on the second floor would be perfect for private parties.

Chef Alessandro Pelis and Chef Vito Gnazzo of Il Gattopardo have devised a delightful menu that emphasizes the simplicity of Italian cuisine, using high-quality ingredients including classic antipasti, panini, salads, and of course, pastas.

The enoteca-style bar specializes in wines sourced predominantly from artisanal family estates and independent Italian winemakers selected for their history, quality, and value. Their list is constantly evolving and many of the wines are offered by the glass.

Millefoglie of Polenta Caprino cheese and bresaola. We were intrigued by this unusual starter which Chef Vito told us was inspired by the crackling crisp Sardinian bread known as carta di musica. Here, thin sheets of crispy polenta are layered with creamy goat cheese and housemade bresaola.

Arancini Di Sicilia — Fried rice balls stuffed with oxtail and veal ragout, mozzarella di bufala, and peas.

Citrus and Fennel Salad — Oranges and grapefruit wedges paired with shaved fennel, frisee, olives and caprino cheese.

Giardiniera — crunchy housemade pickled vegetables to accompany the salumi

Selection of Salumi included finocchiona salame, prosciutto and lonza.

Ravioli Del Giorno According to chef’s mood, says the menu. The day I was there the mood was fresh, tender pasta stuffed with ricotta and taleggio with a delicate yellow tomato sauce.

Chill Ya Jolo 2024 IGT Badia a Coltibuono Toscana made from 100% Ciliegiolo served chilled. Early harvest at low sugar levels. Native yeasts. Vinified only in stainless steel and aged in the bottle for 1 month. The wine is a light red color. It is a light fruity wine with hints of cherry, red fruit, and blueberry and only 12% alcohol. It was a delight to drink and went very well with the food.

Basil Panna Cotta. For dessert, we shared a delicate panna cotta flavored with fresh basil and topped with candied tomatoes.

I am looking forward to returning soon.

Mozzarella & Vino is located at 33 W 54th St, New York, NY 10019

(212) 540-5543

Paula Bolla Sorrentino, Managing Partner

Gianfranco Sorrentino, in memoriam

Gabriel Berlendis, General Manager

Alessandro Pelis, Executive Chef

mozzarellaevino.com

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November 20, 2025 · 3:54 am

Italian Wine for Thanksgiving

Invite an Italian — wine, that is — to your Thanksgiving dinner! Here are some of the wines that I have enjoyed in the past year that would go perfectly with the holiday meal.

Cerasuolo D’Abruzzo DOC Malandrino 2024 Cataldi Madonna made from 100% Monepulciano D’Abruzzo. The soil is clay rich in calcareous skeleton and the exposure is northeast. The training system is Pergola and the vineyards are at 1,250 ft. Fermentation in stainless steel tanks for 30 days at 15 to 17 degrees C. The wine then remains in stainless steel tanks until release. It has hints of strawberry and raspberry with a touch of red currants and a hint of rosewater. $23

ll Frappato, Vittoria Frappato Sicily DOC 2020 Valle Dell’ Acate (southeast corner of Sicily) made from 100% Frappato. There are 80 hectares of organically cultivated vineyards. The vineyards are at 100 meters and the soil is black, relatively compact and riddled with white stones. The soil structure makes it possible for plant roots to oxygenate freely, extending down deep into the ground. There are 5,000 plants per hectare and the training system is espalier. Harvest takes place the first week of September. The wine is aged in steel vats for 6 months and in bottle for at least 3 months before release. This is a fresh aromatic wine with hints of blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, with a hint of violets and a touch of sage. $18

Barbera D’Alba Superiore 2021 Tenuta Cucco (Piedmont) made from 100 % Barbara from the 1.7 Roddi “Elia”vineyard which is 200/250 meters with a south-southeast exposure. There are 4,200 plants per hectare. The soil is chalky/clay and the training system is guyot. Harvest takes place the second week of September. The freshly harvested grapes are destemmed, pressed, and placed in vats at a temperature of 18°C for 3 days to bring out their varietal aromas. Fermentation takes place at a temperature of 26 °C, followed by a 6/8-day period of maceration and then the drawing-off. Once the malolactic fermentation takes place, the wine ages for 12 months in 25 HL barrels. The wine has hints of red roses, raspberries, black cherries, blackberries and a hint of red plum. $18

Tenuta Perano (Frescobaldi) Chianti Classico 2021 made from Sangiovese and complementary varieties. Grapes are harvested by hand. Vinification is in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. Then maceration on the skins with a controlled and careful pumping over. The different grapes were aged separately in wood, then further aging in bottle until the wine is ready for release. The wine has hints of red berries, cherries, plums, violets, floral notes and a touch of spice. $27

Vino Noble di Montepulciano 2020 Boscarelli made from 85% Sangiovese and 15% Canaiolo. Alluvial and sandy lime soil with a good percentage of silt, clay and stony structure that varies between layers according to altitude. There are about 6,500 vines per hectare. Vineyards are at least 10 years old. The grapes are picked manually and transported in crates. After de-stemming and soft pressing, they are fermented in oak vats filled to no more than two-thirds of their capacity. Indigenous yeast is used in the fermentation process that lasts about a week at controlled temperatures from 28 to 30 degrees. Short manual re-passing of the must and pomace is completed in the initial phase. Pumping continues, where possible, for another 5 to 8 days after fermentation. This wine is aged in Allier or Slavonian oak casks of capacity ranging from 5 to 35 hectoliters, where malolactic fermentation occurs. Maturation takes from 18 to 24 months. Before release, the wine ages in the bottle for several months. The wine has hints of strawberry, violets, sage and a note of blueberry. Drink within 8 years. I have always been a fan of this winery. $43

Brunello Di Montalcino 2019 Fanti made from 100% Sangiovese from a 10 hectare vineyard with 21 to 31 year-old vines at 150 to 420 meters. The soil is rich is schist and galestro. Manual harvest from the middle of September to the first week of October. Fermentation is in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. The wine is aged for 24 months, 50% in barriques of 225 liters and in big oak barrels of 30 hl. After 4 months of aging in the bottle the wine is released. The wine has hints cherries, currants, plum a touch of cedar and a note of violets. The wine was very enjoyable but it will improve with a few more years of aging. $41

Südtirol-Alto Adige DOC Select Lagrein Gries Riserva 2021 Rottensteiner made from 100% Lagrein which grows in three vineyards in the center of Bolzano Gries where there are deep sedimentary soils with more than 30 year-old grapevines. The training system is guyot. Vinification is in French barriques. This is a full bodied red wine hints of violets, chocolate, blackberries and a touch of tobacco. The owner told me that the tradition and modernity of the Rottensteiner family finds its clearest expression in this wine. $ 30

Venegazzú Della Casa DOC Montello Venegazzu 2019. Cabernet Sauvignon 60% is always predominant and combined with a good part of Merlot 25%, and a small amount of Cabernet Franc 10% and Malbec 5%. The vineyards are at 150 to 400 meters and the soil is red, clayey and rich in minerals. Grapes are hand-picked. Maceration with skin contact for 8 days and fermentation in steel tanks for about 10 days at controlled temperature. Malolactic fermentation takes place. The wine is aged for 18 months in large 25hl large Slavonian oak barrels before being bottled and placed on the market. The wine drinks like a Bordeaux with hints of black cherry, plum, cassis, tobacco, licorice, herbs, and mushrooms. The wine continues the blending tradition of the Gasparini Estate. When introduced in 1951 it was one of the first Cabernet and Merlot blends in Italy. This is a wine that can age and a real bargain for the price at $25.

Valpolicella Superiore DOC 2012 I Saltari made from 60% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 10% Croatina and 10% Corvinone. The grapes are grown in the Mezzane Valley in the region of the Veneto on terraced hillside vineyards in calcareous and alkaline soil. After a careful collection of the grapes, vinification takes place in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. After racking, the wine is transferred to different size barrels for malolactic fermentation. For 12 to 14 months, the wine goes through regular racking and topping up of the barrels until blending. The wine is unfiltered. It has hints of small berries like currants and blackberry with tobacco and leather and a touch of cherry. $35. This winery also produces an excellent Amarone.

Amarone della Valpolicella Mai Dire Mai (never say never) 2015 Pasqua made from Corvina 65%, Corvinone 15%, Rondinella 10% and Oseleta 10% from the Montevegro vineyard in Val d’Illasi. Soil is basalt and calcareous in origin, with optimal mineral content. The grapes are hand-picked and carefully selected and then placed in crates to dry for 4 months to achieve a higher sugar concentration. After pressing, pre-fermentation cold maceration is performed, then malolactic fermentation takes place in steel vats at a controlled temperature of 22-25°C for 40 days. Ageing takes place in French oak casks (70% barrels of 225 litres and 30% in barrels of 500 litres, all new barrels) for 24 months. The wine has hints of cherry, black fruitI, cinnamon, dark chocolate and a touch of tobacco.This is a wine that will age. $75

Wishing you a Happy Thanksgiving!

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Filed under Thanksgiving 2025 Italian Wine

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Michelin Guide Now to Rate Wineries

Michelin-starred wineries

by Daniele Cernilli, 15 December 2025

Michelin launches wine guide: starred wineries

Stars in wine: a story from afar

A possible “pre-use” conflict?

What role will The Wine Advocate?

How the Michelin-starred winery system works:

What does Michelin rate in wineries?

Why does Michelin award stars to wineries and not to wines?

Is it possible for a large company to be penalized?

Is Michelin the first to apply stars to wine?

Reopening Mozzarella and Vino in NYC

Italian Wine for Thanksgiving

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