The first time was about 20 years ago. I was a member of a group that was traveling. There was a structured routine, and we were expected to follow it. I’m quite comfortable with discipline and had no problem accepting the idea and keeping schedule.
One afternoon though, we had some free time to ourselves. I decided to venture out of the campus where the group was put up. I walked down a winding road. The sights around me were inviting enough to pique my curiosity to explore. Casually, I veered away from the road and into the woods. It was quiet and the weather was cool.
I must’ve walked for an hour and decided that it is time to return. I started to walk back to where I set out from. After a while, I realized that all around me, there were slopes and cedar trees and the landscape looked very similar. Somewhere along the way, I had deviated far from the road. There was absolute silence all around, and not a soul to be seen. I should continue walking, but in which direction do I walk? I had no compass, and back then, I was yet to own a smartphone. In short, I was lost. A mild panic struck me.
I sat on a rock for a while and told myself to stay calm and breathe deep. I had left soon after lunch. There was enough time before it starts growing dark. In the mountains, that can happen early enough, I reminded myself. After a while, I decided to pick a direction and walk. After all, what else could one do? A dog appeared out of nowhere and was unobtrusively walking beside me. It dawned on me that he was leading me and I decided to follow. Eventually, and much to my relief, he brought me back at the motorized road. I sighed a deep relief and started walking uphill. Soon, someone gave me a ride back. Just as I was about to hop on their motorcycle, I turned around and realized that the dog had disappeared just as quietly as he had found me.
Someone recently asked me why I want to go to the mountains. I couldn’t immediately give them a convincing answer. The question was asked of me, possibly to ascertain my keenness to join the Advance Mountaineering Course. As I stumbled, the thought crossed my mind that I may not have been very convincing. Later, I thought more about the question. Why did I so badly want to do the course, that too, when I may have hit the age-limit for it?
I had applied for the Basic Mountaineering Course at NIM in 2015. I got there finally, after a wait of 2 years, in the latter part of 2017. In a week, while climbing walls, I casually jumped off when I was asked to climb down. I landed badly, broke my foot and had to return home on a week chair. I must be grateful the institute for providing immediate medical attention, all at their expense. Owing to the exceeding kindness of the staff, multiple cab drivers, a friend’s mother-in-law, airport security personnel and ground staff, I got home with my leg wrapped in a cast. Curiously, I was only mildly disappointed. I felt like it had to happen and it did.
In 2021, I decided that I should give it another try. This time, I got accepted at HMI, since I had already crossed the age limit for NIM. This was one of the most exhilarating experiences of my life, despite all the challenges. The first week was spent at the institute hostel in Darjeeling. Early morning yoga / PT / runs were compulsory. Those who showed up but slacked were warned that there would be a test before hitting the mountains, and those who failed the test would be left behind. There was rock climbing after breakfast, which everyone loved. Afternoons and evenings would be lectures on a host of subjects including the history of mountaineering, flora and fauns, knotting, equipment knowledge, packing, first-aid, mountain manners and what not. Some fun films were thrown in too.
The day of the test arrived. We had to load our backpacks that would be weighed to ensure that the minimum stipulated load of 15 kg was packed. We had to talk along a specified route and be back at the hostel within 3 hours. Instructors would not walk along, as they did the preceding few days. Instead, they would place themselves at specific junctions to guide us if someone lost the way. I vividly remember the last leg; we may have had a kilometer or two and one of the instructors who was waiting by the side nudged me to hurry up or risk exceeding the time limit. Eventually, I made it just within the exact 3-hour limit that was set. Most people had already reached the hostel and were resting in huddles and conversing excitedly.
The next day, at PT time early in the morning, a few names were called out and they were lined up. They had all exceeded the time limit. They were simply asked to pack their bags and go back home. I for one hadn’t expected this. All along, I thought their warnings their way of getting us to do our morning PT properly. Some of the boys were in tears but there was nothing anyone could do. The rest of us went on a run and then we had our kits to pick, pack our bags and clean up our rooms. Anything that we didn’t want to carry was to be backed separately and left in two dedicated rooms.
In the evening, after dinner, I visited the little temple that was on campus. I felt grateful that I had passed the test. I also asked for protection and strength along the way. I used to run a bit and so was not entirely unfit. Yet, walking with a loaded rucksack that too uphill, had taken the breath out of me. This was on paved roads in Darjeeling. What awaited was something more.
The next morning, after vacating our rooms, we were herded on to a dozen jeeps. Those who wanted pills to control sickness were given it. I didn’t take one. I had eaten light anyways. We drove to a place in Sikkim, I don’t recall the name anymore. We reached our destination for lunch. We camped there for the day.
We trekked over the new 4-5 days to our basecamp at a place called Chowrikang, at an altitude of about 14,000 feet. Camping there, we would further walk every day to the training sites to learn how to traverse snow and ice. We would walk anywhere between 3 and 6 hours every day for about 10 days, with loaded backpacks. The straps of the loaded packs would sting the shoulder. I would stop every now and then and bend down for a few seconds to take the entire load on my back and relieve my shoulders of the pain. Almost every day, I was among the last people to reach our destination. I would walk slowly, breathing heavily and sweating profusely. By the time I would reach our destination every day, I’d be completely deflated. My companions, all of whom were many years younger, would cheer for me when I reached the campsite every evening.
As we gained altitude, we had days to acclimatize, and despite this, I had nausea in the initial few days. Not eating was not an option, we needed every bit of energy. By the time we had dinner, I would just crawl into my sleeping bag and fall asleep. This, despite chatter and games all around, owing to the youthful energy around me. I remember feeling that I had not slept better every in my life, than those days in the eastern Himalayas.
The sheer physical challenge of it kindled something within me. Torturous as it was, I liked it. Every day felt like a small victory, of mind over matter. Of pushing myself and proving to myself that I could do more. Of staying humble, for I prayed a lot for help along the way.
Then, there was the idea of living and working with others. Having lived alone for many years, I may have grown intolerant to others. I would be annoyed at how someone would litter, another would throw away their food and still another would behave in ways that inconvenienced others. How can they be so insensitive, I would think to myself. I had to navigate an entire spectrum of feelings, ranging from mild disapproval to rage. At times, I would politely tell someone. Sometimes, I lost my patience too. And on most occasions, I simply stayed silent, deciding that it was not my job to mend people. This aspect was the other challenge, of being more accepting of those who were not like me. I was learning to be more social. Yet, I really had to put an effort to keep calm and not yell at someone multiple times a day.
I suppose it is these two challenges, more than anything else, that make me love going to the mountains. The cool weather, warm people, rich flora and fauna, and stunning views are a bonus.
