Today’s Rant: If you stumble after your attack, it was a bad attack

I don’t see it anywhere near as often as I used to, but there is a still a subset of the community that praises what I call the “Flying Oberhauw”. This is when a fencer launches themselves forward for a cut with no control over their body.

Related to this is the “Ballerina Tap” where someone goes forward and up on their tippy toes in order to try to reach. Not backwards, such as when trying to void a low attack while overreaching, but forwards such that you immediately stumble afterwards.

Look, I get it. This is a fast and unpredictable attack. And it works in tournaments. But if you stumble after your attack or otherwise have no control over your next step, it’s bad fencing. You’re just taking advantage of a ruleset and the judge’s whistle to cover for your inability to continue the exchange. And that shouldn’t be encouraged.

Not only does it look bad, it’s dangerous. If the ground isn’t perfect, you increase the chance of slipping, which can hurt you and/or your opponent. And even on a high quality floor, the situation may change that you need to pull your cut, which is hard when physics is in control of your body.

This is also part of a bigger problem, ignoring the withdrawal. In sparring, most of us, at one point or another, get into the habit of freezing the moment someone lands a hit to think about the exchange. That’s bad enough, but lately I’ve been seeing training videos recommended where the attacker has to drop their arms towards the ground to recover from the stumble.

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Francois Dancie on Guards

Prime, with the arm as high as you can reach, is painful to hold, not very useful, and hard to defend from. So it’s not worth talking about. [Extensive use of this in L’Ange and Agrippa has taught me otherwise.]

Seconde, with the hand shoulder high and palm down, is for posturing, not fencing. And its something that the Spanish do, not proper Frenchmen. So it’s also not worth talking about, other than to note that you may use it as an action rather than a guard.

Tierce is the most useful guard to attack from. The hand should be near the waist, the point at the face to keep the opponent from rushing in, and the dagger supports the sword. The left leg should be bent to support all of the body weight so that you can freely step in any direction with the right foot, taking advantage of the tempo given to you.

Do not contemplate. Fear mixed with contemplation will earn you scorn, and an enemy scorned is half-defeated already. [In other words, don’t overthink.]

Some incorrectly say that Quarte is formed by turning the palm up with the point to the right side. [Standard SCA fencing. Embarrassing to think I used to fence that way.] You should be holding it somewhat low with the point high and angled to the left. [Again, something I didn’t understand when I was locked into the SCA mindset.]

Guards don’t really matter. In the heat of the moment, you’re going to do what you need to do to protect your own skin. You’ll also modify it to find a better position or for comfort. For everyone, the urge to follow your nature is stronger than the art when defending yourself. [In other words, the guards we read about are examples and concepts, not exact postures.]

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Meyer’s Precepts for Staff Fencing

These rules are found near the end of the staff section, page 3.31r.

  1. Do not let yourself be goaded into attacking in the Vor (Before) without a particular opportunity.
  2. If your opponent offers you an opening, do not boldly strike into it. See if you can goad your opponent with pulled thrusts and change through.
  3. If your opponent lingers in a guard too long, rush them when they don’t expect it.
  4. If you’re in a bind and can’t thrust safely in the Vor (Before), motion as if to thrust and use Fülen (Feeling) to see if they will strike you out.
  5. If they strike you out, change to the other side and help them go to the side they sent you.
  6. If they strike you out, change to the other side and thrust as they are striking out.
  7. If they thrust as you, hold back until they’ve fully committed, then thrust into their thrust to send them away.
  8. Do not be too hasty and observe what your opponent wants to do to you.
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Don’t Wait Until You Join a Club

I got a new student last Sunday. This student broke the cardinal rule of HEMA, “Never train on your own before joining a club.” Like all students who pick up a sword and swing it around without an instructor present, he had dozens of bad habits that we will now have to spend months working through.

Oh wait, none of that happened.

Instead, he knew how his body worked and was able to learn more quickly than any of my other students with no martial arts backgrounds. The ones coming from foil fencing or boxing learned faster. But compared to the ones who just dreamed about swords, he progressed much faster with far fewer corrections.

So here’s the real deal. If you come into my class without every having held a sword-shaped object, you’re probably going to spend several weeks just learning how to not trip over your own feet. I’m going to give you the same drills as everyone else, but I’m expecting you’re going to have to repeat them over several weeks just to get to square one.

This fear of “acquitting bad habits that you have to unlearn” is complete bullshit. You can’t “unlearn” a habit. You can only layer good habits on top until they replace what you used to do. And it’s a lot easier to do that when you understand how your body works. And no instructor can teach you that. You need to experience it yourself by actually moving.

Now I do want you to be careful. Don’t push yourself to the point of injury. And if you aren’t sure what that feels like, take a break when you feel start to feel sore so you have a buffer. In time you’ll learn your limits. And don’t swing around a sharp sword until you’re 100% confident that you won’t hit yourself with a blunt one. (Raw pottery clay makes a great cutting target for blunts.)

So grab a broom handle or interesting stick, go outside, and have some fun. Don’t wait for the perfect opportunity to come along. Life is too short to spend it rotting on the couch.

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Creating Colored Fabris Illustrations

The tool I use for this process is Paint.NET. However, any tool that supports layers should work.

Setup

In a new layer, strike a pair of horizontal lines to check the image alignment. This one is close enough, but in many cases you’ll have to rotate or even skew the image.

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Tip: For Paint.NET, hold the SHIFT key to ensure the line is level.

After you have the image straight, trim to size. It is important to trim last so that you don’t end up with an empty wedge where the image was rotated.

Floor

The floor is painted with a “Color Burn” layer.

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I find it easier to draw large rectangles and then erase the coloring from the legs. Near the edges, rotate the rectangles to match the horizon line.

Tip: For Paint.NET, you can move the rotation point from the center of a rectangle to a corner. This makes it much easier to match the angles.

Skin

The next step is to color the skin. A “Multiply” layer with the opacity set to 200 works well for generic pseudo-European skin tones.

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When figures are grappling, I like to setting one skin layer to opacity 100 and the other to 255 gives some contrast.

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Hair

The hair uses an “Overlay” layer. Allow it to overlap the skin a bit, it just makes the hair darker.

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Clothing, Sword

For clothing and swords, I use a “Multiply” layer set to 100 opacity.

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More Examples

These images were made for the Illuminated L’Ange book using the same techniques.

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Settings

## Blood
* Color: 7F0000
# Bleed Through Removal
* Color: E2D9C6
* Opacity: 130
* Mode: Lighten
## Floor
* Color: 8A755A
* Opacity: 255
* Mode: Color Burn
## Skin
* Color: D9BAA6
* Opacity: Base 200, Contrast A 100, Constrast B 255
* Mode: Multiply
# Hair
* Color: 362511, 80471C, 9A7B4F, 4A2511, 371D10
* Opacity: 255
* Mode: Overlay
## Red Clothes
* Color: FF0000
* Opacity: 100
* Mode: Multiply
## Blue Clothes
* Color: 0026FF
* Opacity: 100
* Mode: Multiply
# Blade
* Color: 404040
* Opacity: 100
* Mode: Multiply
# Foot Lines
* Width: 3
* Blue: 0026FF
* Red: FF0000
# Body Lines
* Width: 3
* Torso: 00FFFF Cyan
* Limbs: FFD800 Yellow
# Heigth Lines
* Width: 3
* Horizontal: FF00DC Magenta
# Drop Lines
* Width: 3
* Vertical: B200FF Purple
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What is a “feder”?

The word “feder” literally means “feather” or “spring” in German. (Yes, they used it for puns.) In a HEMA context the definition varies. Here are some definitions of feder in rough order of popularity.

  1. A flexible steel longsword used for training with a narrow profile and a schilt.
  2. A flexible steel longsword used for training.
  3. A flexible steel sword used for training.
  4. A flexible steel sword used for training with a narrow profile and a schilt.
  5. A flexible longsword used for training with a narrow profile and a schilt.
  6. A flexible sword used for training.

In other words, the term feder can refer to the flexibility of the blade, the shape of the blade, whether or not it has a schilt, and/or the material of the blade (steel vs synthetic). Since we don’t know the precise definition intended by the original authors, I go with #3 because it’s the most useful for me. This gives me…

  • Waster: an inflexible sword made of wood or plastic
  • Blunt: an inflexible sword made of metal
  • Sharp: an inflexible sword made of metal with a cutting edge
  • Synthetic: a flexible sword made of plastic
  • Feder: a flexible sword made of metal

These five categories cover everything I care about. As a club operator, details such as whether or not it has a schilt aren’t important to me. And I don’t know that it was important to the source authors.

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We worked on Meyer’s Mittelhut today…

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Please ignore any malicious rumors that several people were knocked out from the double 360 strikes. (It was only one person and it was the 360 spin that did it.)

Seriously though, if you practice the Mittelhut chapter please be careful. You don’t want to be hitting your partner when your 8 foot staff is moving fast enough to whistle through the wind.

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Why not stab him in the face? Three theories.

When you flip through rapier manuals you’ll see a consistent theme, most of hits are against the body, not the face. Here are my theories why.

Margin of Error

If you miss the center of the chest to the left or right, you still hit the chest or shoulder. If you miss low, you hit the belly. If you miss high, you hit the throat or head. While we train for accuracy, there are factors we can’t always control. So having this margin of error is helpful.

As for the head, a miss to the left or right is a clear miss. Same if you miss high. You only still hit something if your thrust comes in low.

Training Safety

Next we need to consider how they trained. Throughout most of history, fencing masks just weren’t a thing. Which means you have two options when working through drills.

  1. Work just outside of measure.
  2. Avoid aiming for the face.

We know unequivocally some chose option 1 because Rada goes into great detail exactly how you need to do it.

Outside of my club, I have been working with an Asian martial arts instructor. In Asian cultures, they still do the majority of their training without masks. So that’s how I taught my L’Ange lesson. And there were absolutely no problems. Between the speed of the actions and the targets L’Ange illustrated, the points never got near the face.

Obviously there are limitations to this. We were working through highly scripted drills with minimal opposition. To stress test the drills we would certainly need safety gear appropriate for the level of intensity.

Note that I’m not saying that you should be training without masks. And if you are my club this isn’t even a question, the HEMA Alliance safety policy mandates face protection when thrusts are involved.

But again, when you are in a context where masks aren’t even an option, this is how the authors can mitigate risks without eliminating the thrust.

Constraining the Arm

My third theory deals with the opponent’s response to being hit. Outside of a tournament context, time doesn’t freeze when you make a touch. The opponent can still injure you before succumbing to their injury, if they were even injured at all and you didn’t get caught up on a brass button.

Docciolini, 1601, addresses this with the concept of the Punto (Point, Spot, or Mark). For most situations, the mark is the right shoulder. A strike here constrains the arm such that it can’t come forward for its own thrust. Experimentally, I’ve found the best place for the mark is the hollow of the chest where it meets the shoulder. You’ll know when you found it on yourself because it’s also a pressure point. (See chapter 8 for more on Docciolini’s discussion.)

If you are attacking from the outside, a thrust or cut that goes over the right arm has a similar effect. Even if you don’t actually hit the arm, you’ll make it difficult for your opponent to raise it. Meyer calls this a Zwingerhauw (Constrainer Cut) in his dusack material. If you instead aim for the head, the arm has room to move.

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How Not to Parry a Cut with a Dagger

I don’t consider my club is not a “hard hitting” group. If we’re not fencing with steels half of us aren’t even wearing jackets. But even still, we can blast through a parry if it is weak enough. So lets take a look at “The Best Rapier Fencer in the World’s Dagger Parry”.

Parrying a Thrust

First the initial posture.

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Yea, ok. That looks fine. You want to encourage your opponent to shoot for that left shoulder which you can easily defend. I might not hold it exactly in that place, but it’s going to be near there most of the time. And I would hold it more point-forward so I can get more of a snap in my parry, but that’s a personal preference.

Parrying a Cut

Cuts have a lot more force so you need a stronger parry. You really want to use your structure and not just your wrist.

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Or you can ‘break’ the wrist and turn your flat out so that you weaken the dagger as much as possible.

What’s the cutting line?

Will this work against a Mandritto to the head?

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Nope. It’s not even in the path of the sword.

How about a Tondo?

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That’s going through the weakest part of the blade and the only thing resisting it is the thumb.

What Does Meyer Show?

Meyer will have you use an edge parry. And you extend the arm forward and high so that you catch the cut as early as possible.

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What Does Fabris Show?

While Fabris rarely, if ever, uses cuts, he does show you how to counter them.

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Again, you extend the arm and parry with the edge. The point is angled forward and out so that you suppress the attacker’s cut. Contrast this with Meyer, who had the point turned more inwards for a Kron-like parry.

What Does Giganti Show?

And we’re back to Meyer, just with more nudity.

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Can You Parry with the Flat?

Sure. You need to straighten out the wrist, and ideally the arm, so that you’re parrying with structure rather than just the thumb. And you need to raise the dagger so that you’re parrying with the strong of the blade rather than the weak. But yes, you can parry with the flat if you learn how to do it properly.

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Parry with Your Whole Forte!

Recently I shared some videos showing parries I don’t like. Here is a video from Woody’s Fencing clips showing a really good parry and the theory behind it.

The Forte Starts in the Middle

The key takeaway from this video is that your forte (strong) isn’t just the small part near the hilt. The forte is the entire lower half of the sword (marked with tape) and you should be taking advantage of it.

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If you try to parry close to the hilt, the presenter argues, you need to move the hilt to intercept. This movement puts your hilt out of position, which is problematic if your opponent disengages.

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By parrying with the top of the forte, you only need to move the point a little bit to find and intercept their sword. Which means if they disengage, you only need a small movement to return to center and find their sword on the other side.

They Can’t Redouble the Thrust If You Stay on Their Debole.

A common occurrence in rapier that you parry a thrust on the inside, then your opponent turns their hand over into the second rotation (palm down) and it slips over your sword. Or they are on the outside, they turn their hand into the fourth rotation (palm up).

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The presenter argues what allows this to happen is where you are cross their blade. In order to make this transition, the swords must cross in their forte. If they are crossing anywhere in the debole (weak), they can’t bring the point on line. But as soon as the crossing slips below the halfway point on their sword, the available angles change.

Your forte does not need to be free for your sword free because it’s not the part that hits.

I think that’s really good advice that generalizes many of the techniques I’ve been teaching my club.

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