This past week we took a trip to the east coast of Taiwan to a Town
called, Taitung, which, being translated means, Eastern Taiwan. I love
how descriptive the chinese is! You never have to guess where you are
in the island since you have towns named Taipei (northern Taiwan),
Taichung (central taiwan), Tainan (southern Taiwan). The east coast has
a higher density of aboriginal people, and it’s interesting to see how
many christian churches there are on that side of the island as compared
to the western side. Anyway the reason for our visit was originally
scheduled for a triathlon in which I was going to participate
relay-style, meaning I was going to do the bicycle portion of the race.
Unfortunately, I sprained my left knee while doing a run about three
weeks ago, and the doctor said no running or biking for at least 6 weeks
and 3 weeks respectively while my knee healed—even if it started
feeling better. That said, we planned to take a long weekend to travel
over there and see that part of the island.
We
went with some friends who are also expats for Micron, and their kids
are similar in age to ours. We also went with another friend who speaks
chinese and he was actually doing the swim portion of the triathlon,
and another lady from church who live in the apt above the chinese
speaker. It was a lot of fun and BOY was it gorgeous. Have you ever
traveled the oregon coast on why 101? I’d compare the coastline with
the oregon coast as far as greenery and rocky shores. Basically
substitute tropical florae for evergreens and you have eastern Taiwan.
It rained a lot, but we had periods where the sun cam out and the
scenery was breathtaking as the clouds hung in the middle of the
mountains. Imagine going from sea level to 10,000 ft—the mountains are
spectacular. We drove the course I was supposed to ride on a bicycle,
and it made me wish I was on a bike instead. We took time to visit a
natural preserve where Taiwanese monkeys live and play. The kids were
super excited to get up close and personal, but we had to remind them to
keep their distance because they are still wild animals. We ignorantly
left our car door open and one of those little bandits made off with
some of our fresh fruit. Next thing we knew, we were surrounded by
these monkeys, and it was a little unnerving. At one point there were
two males and one started to dominate the other. I was grateful they
weren't mating since that conversation would have been much harder to
have with children, but explaining dominance was pretty harmless. :-)
The
next day we went to the city of Kending in the very southern tip of
Taiwan. The wind was pretty strong, so it wasn’t as enjoyable as it
would have been otherwise, and it actually got a little chilly—I had
convinced Angela that we didn’t need jackets because it was going to be
78 degrees and high humidity. The latter two were right, but the wind
was pretty fierce—at least 20-30 mph gusts with 15-20mph sustained
winds. We walked through the night market to get some food and settled
on a green papaya salad with hot peppers, garlic and lemon juice. I
liked it so much I bought a second salad. We rented rooms at a bed and
breakfast each night. From what I understand the B&B’s are much
better than hotels and cheaper in most cases. The first night the
B&D was really nice, and all the women and girls stayed there while
the men stayed in a hotel room closer to the city. The second night we
stayed in these little cabins right next to each other and again split
up the men and women since it was cheaper to have two rooms and
accommodate the other two friends. We went to the port, and I was super
excited to get some fresh sashimi. We were told that going in the
afternoon for lunch would be the best time to go since they would be
serving the catch from that morning and I wanted some super fresh
sashimi. I’m not sure what was going on culturally, but it was an
interesting experience to say the least. Basically there was a long
corridor with “restaurants” lining both sides of the corridor. Each
restaurant was serving something fish related from squid, to fried
flying fish, to sashimi. These restaurants were tiny and only had 3-4
tables in each with probably a maximum of 15-20 people. The corridor
was also packed and was shoulder to shoulder traffic as we pushed our
way through trying to find a place to grab some sushi. We started
asking the sushi places if they served take out and each told us
emphatically that was not a service they provided. Weird. When we
asked why, one lady got super upset and told us to quit wasting her time
during the busiest part of the day. I was baffled. Your restaurant is
full and you have some people who are willing to pay you money to take
your fish w/o sitting down in your restaurant. Seemed like an
opportunity to make more money, but they lady and everyone else treated
us with contempt and disdain when we suggested take out. Anyway, we
finally got to sit down in a restaurant and ordered the cheapest yet
most delicious and freshest sushi I’ve ever had. About 40 pieces of
sashimi for just over $10 USD!!!! It was so good I couldn’t help but
wolf down those succulent morsels of fresh fish, and that’s when the
second strange thing happened. One of the servers of the restaurant
told us we needed to hurry up so other customers could sit down! I was
flabbergasted! Seriously? How fast do you need us to eat this stuff?
I’m already packing this sushi into my stomach as if I didn’t expect to
eat for another month and she’s harassing me to hurry up? I told
Jesse, the chinese speaker, to let her know this was the exact reason
why take out would have been good for all of us. Asian customer service
is markedly different from the US concept of customer service. It’s
not upsetting, but definitely a cultural experience you have to remind
yourself as you realize that the customer/service provider relationship
is actually backwards from what you’re used to.
Then
we started the long drive home. Jesse’s little boy, Thomas has a
really weak stomach and he barfed in the car a total of three times
during the trip. Once on the way to and twice on the way from. Mix
that in with incessant potty breaks and we didn’t get home until 10pm.
Arghhh!! That’s when you have to remind yourself that these vacations
are for the kids and that you won’t actually have another real vacation
until the kids are out of the house. We stopped along the route to
collect some fresh mangoes from a kiosk along the side of the road.
Mangoes are just coming back into season, and they are pretty expensive
right now (about $2.50 each), but they are amazingly good. There is
one variety, I don’t know the english name, but they call it aiwen and
it is the sweetest mango you’ll ever have. Not only that, the good news
is these things are just beginning to some in season and they will only
get better! The hills are covered in mango orchards and there are
little baggies that are carefully placed on every single mango in the
orchard to keep the bugs and birds from eating the mangoes. I find
myself salivating right now as i think about these things. Angela
actually fed one to Theo today, and I had to remind her that little kids
don’t deserve fruit that expensive. It’s like giving filet minion to
little kids. there’s a reason man invented hot dogs and hamburgers and
that was because he didn’t want to share his prime steak and cuts of
beef with his kids. Give them a banana and some grapes and they’ll be
happy. in the meantime you can enjoy the greatest of God’s gifts to
mankind…a fresh, ripe, sweet, juicy mango.
Here's our Taitung B&B: The Dulan Red House (best breakfast I've ever had in Taiwan!)
Near by was a black-sand beach that we had almost all to ourselves for a few hours of wave jumping and sand digging.
Too much exfoliating rubbing from Theo
It made the mud monster mad...
...hilarious to watch Theo try to get out of his way!
You can almost see the mountains through the clouds in the background.
So must mist in this jungle land!
So much for picnic place plan A
Watch for monkey crossing
At picnic site plan B, it felt like we were the monkeys being observed from a safe distance (bus loads of Chinese tourists were fascinated to see such a gaggle of foreigners)
Kenting: southern beaches of Taiwan
deep-fried squid at the night market
Theo in the ladies' cabin
LDS branch building. We doubled the attendance that morning.
Hammock rides at our B&B in Kenting
Deep-fried flying fish...first time seeing those!
Coolest turquoise striped fish.
Do you see cat rock? Hundreds of people come take pictures of it every day :)
Bagged mangoes in their orchards