Signing Off

We have been home now for four days and the snow and cold of northern Europe are almost a distant memory. Our return has coincided with high temperatures and total fire bans so a complete reversal of our experiences for the past month.

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Our return trip was smooth and uneventful so the only thing left to do is to crunch the numbers. How much did everything cost?

I will begin with the easiest figure – the grand total for 2 adults for 37 nights and 38 days was $27,151.01 which was proportionally more than any previous trips. This is partly due to the relentless increase in all costs everywhere as well as our choice to visit some of the more expensive countries and finally, the fact that we chose to fly Premium Economy on this occasion rather than Economy as we have in the past.

This is how it was broken up.

Airfares$   8,773.40
Accommodation$   7.879.09
Insurance$      455.60
Transport$   4,217.03
Food/Drink$    3,445.57
Sightseeing/Tours/Events$    1,575.21
Souvenirs$       50.07
Other spending$       704.64

It is interesting to see where the money went.  Airfares nudged out ‘Accommodation’ as the most expensive category.

Accommodation was predominantly Air BnBs with 4 single nights in hotels. Additionally, 3 nights of accommodation is included in the transport costs as we had 2 overnight ferry trips as well as an overnight train journey.

Transport was long-distance trains and overnight ferries between destinations as well as transport in and around the cities where it was not specifically sightseeing.

Insurance is self-explanatory and necessary, however, we were grateful not to need it.

Food and drinks included everything that we ate or drank from restaurant meals, drinks at the pub and groceries to an occasional ice-cream or cup of coffee.

Sightseeing was predominantly made up of admission costs and a couple of city passes which provided free entry to multiple attractions.

My only souvenir was a piece of Marimekko fabric which I bought in Helsinki and I plan to use to make a couple of cushion covers.

The category of ‘Other’ was everything else – phone credit, entrance to the transit lounge at Tokyo Airport on our outbound journey (this meant that we could have a shower) and a selection of small incidental expenses – toilet admissions, buskers and cloakroom fees. Nothing ever goes totally according to plan so there were a few unplanned expenses – a new pair of gloves for me as I dropped on on the bus and didn’t realise until we had alighted and a new international power adaptor as I accidentally left ours in a plug at Salzburg railway station. Finally, we spent an extra $413.59 for an extra night of accommodation in Strasbourg and new tickets from Strasbourg to Lucerne as I was too unwell to travel on our planned departure day from Strasbourg.

75% of the costs were prepaid before we left Australia. Our average daily spend during the trip was $174.48. I was happy with this as I had budgeted $200 – $250/day. Whilst we were not wildly extravagant we certainly did not skimp on things we wanted see or do.

That is it for the moment. Our next adventure may well be to New Zealand later in the year.

I will be back on my Organised Castle blog soon. https://organisedcastle.com/

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Back to the Beginning

On our second full day in Turku we decided to visit Turku Castle. This proved to be a somewhat tricky endeavour as the temperatures had ‘warmed’ ever so slightly and there had been some drizzly rain which all combined to create glass-like ice on footpath surfaces. We gingerly made our way to the bus stop for a short ride to the castle. Despite the treacherous ice combined with drifts of snow in places we walked a few hundred metres only to discover that the castle appeared to be surrounded by temporary fencing and road and building works. The website stated that everything was open but we decided against persevering and caught the bus back to the city centre.

The buses are heated to a pleasant 21C (according to the display) so observing the scenery from inside a bus seemed like a good idea. We caught another bus to Naantali, a summer resort town about 15km west of Turku. It is the jumping-off point for the many islands clustered around the coast. There was nothing too lively about it in the depths of winter, however, we enjoyed a short walk around and some lunch before we headed back to the apartment. This was the view in the centre of Turku around 2pm.

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Today we packed up and caught our final long-distance train back to Helsinki. The scenery was snow as far as the eye could see and I was reminded of how excited we were when we first spotted snow less than 3 weeks ago on the summit of Mount Rigi near Lucerne. We have experienced the snowy aftermath of some very heavy snowfall in Hamburg as well as falling snow in both Salzburg and Turku. Therefore, it seemed a bit unnecessary to photograph the endless vistas of white, however, I could not pass up the opportunity to capture this view of an old steam train right outside our window as we pulled into a station between Turku and Helsinki.

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On our final night, like our first night of the trip we opted to stay in a large hotel immediately adjacent to Helsinki Station. As we were walking to our room this was the view of the courtyard from the corridor. I cannot think of a better image with which to end the trip.

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Tomorrow we will have time for a quick look around and compare how different Helsinki looks blanketed in snow when compared to our arrival just over a month ago. Then it will be off to the airport to begin the long trek home via Tokyo and return to an Australian midsummer.

I have almost finished crunching the numbers for this trip so there will be one more post about that in a couple of days or so.

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Turku Old Town

When we arrived in Turku yesterday morning there was fresh snow everywhere and it continued to snow lightly for most of the day. We walked a short distance from our apartment to the supermarket and most of the buildings looked quite modern even though Turku was apparently the medieval capital of Finland.

Today we walked a bit further afield and found the area described as the old town. It consists of a small area on the opposite side of the Aura River from the business and retail district. It had also been mostly untouched by the snow ploughs which have been busy since the recent snowfall.

Here are some views of the Turku Cathedral, buildings around the Old Great Square as well as the frozen river and bridges.

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Tomorrow is our last full day here and we intend to visit the castle as well as possibly venturing a bit further from the city by local bus.

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Concert Hall – In 3 Parts

It is not often that I would consider dedicating a post to a single building but the Elbphilharmonie is no ordinary building. It is a concert hall in Hamburg which first caught my eye when we were on the harbour cruise. It is difficult to miss.

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Later in the day we saw this model at Miniature Wonderland.

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The model actually opens up to reveal some of the inside detail. It is not the best photo but the intricacies are amazing.

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And some rather staggering statistics about the model which is built to scale from the original blue prints for the building.

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After all of that, I decided that we needed to take a closer look at this intriguing building for ourselves. The site was originally a warehouse built in 1875 but bombed and destroyed during World War 2. It was then replaced with another brick warehouse built in the early 1960s which remained in use until the 1990s when warehousing requirements diminished due to the rise in container shipping.

The brick warehouse was refurbished and forms the lower section of the Elbphilharmonie that we see today. I houses apartments as well as the Westin Hotel.

The soaring glass structure makes it the tallest building in Hamburg and is said to resemble waves or an iceberg. The area between the two elements is a plaza which may be accessed by the public via a curved escalator for superb (when the weather is good) views in all directions.

Here are some photos I took from both inside and outside the building.

The curved escalator leading up to the plaza.

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View from the plaza to the street below.

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There is lots of glass, natural light and open spaces.

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One final glimpse as we departed.

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A visit to the Elbphilharmonie was a great way to spend the afternoon before our overnight train trip from Hamburg to Stockholm on Tuesday night followed by a snowy day in Stockholm then another overnight trip, on the ferry to Turku in the southwest of Finland where we arrived this morning.

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Down to the Harbour

Hamburg is a major European port so it is unsurprising that there would be plenty of interest by the waterfront. When researching for our trip I discovered Miniature Wonderland which is located in a warehouse in the historic port district. This was definitely on our agenda but more on that later.

Our first excursion for the day was a harbour cruise. There are numerous companies and boats offering various harbour cruises and whilst they may be very popular in the summer months we had the entire lower deck to ourselves. I think there were about 8 passengers in total.

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The commentary was in German and there was an optional downloadable audio in English, however, we were mostly happy to just enjoy the passing scenery.

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A modern office building which apparently has stairs up onto the roof but that sounds like a summer excursion.

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The Elbphilharmonie, a modern concert hall – more about that in a separate blog post.

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Yes, that really is ice on the river. Our cruise was not exactly an ice-breaker but the noise was significant as it ploughed through the icy sludge.

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We experienced one of the largest container ports in Europe up close and it is honestly quite frightening to contemplate the amount of goods being constantly transported across the globe.

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Following our cruise we headed over to Miniature World which was nearby. This amazing attraction was opened in 2001 and is constantly being expanded. It includes the largest model railway in the world but is so much more. There are numerous sections devoted to particular countries as well as an extensive model of Hamburg itself. We spent about 3.5 hours there and could easily have stayed longer although it is almost too much for a single visit. The detail is amazing and the whole display cycles through day and night sequences which adds to the realism.

Here are a few examples of the scenes.

Town and railway in the Central Germany display. There are even solar panels in the field beyond the town.

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Hamburg Central Railway station. This is the largest station in the entire model display and a very accurate representation.

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Hamburg container terminal – it is a perfect replica of what we saw earlier in the day.

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New York City with Las Vegas in the foreground and the space shuttle launching on the left-hand side. The rocket does actually launch at the press of a button. There are heaps of interactive buttons for visitors to engage from launching the space shuttle to seeing dolphins jump from the water.

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A Complete Contrast

It was 12.45am when our train from Munich finally pulled in the station in Hamburg. We spent one night here earlier on our trip where my prime goal was to see the ‘flying Santa’ at the Christmas markets. You can read about it here.

As we continue our journey north towards Heslinki for our flight home in a little over a week, we have returned to Hamburg for 3 nights and the contrast could not be more stark. The Christmas markets have been dismantled, the crowds have dispersed and the city is blanketed in snow in the aftermath of Storm Elli. According to the best information that I can find, Hamburg generally only records snowfall every 2-3 years and an event of this magnitude has not happened for around 15 years. There were plenty of people out and about today as we walked around but I had the distinct impression that they were predominantly locals.

We have some specific tourist plans for tomorrow but after sleeping late today we were content to wander around and absorb the snowy sights. While I was confident that we would see plenty of snow during this trip, it was an unexpected surprise to experience this much in Hamburg.

Most of these were taken around the historic port area where it was quite foggy but that added to the wintry atmosphere.

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Tale of a Train Trip

My travel blog posts are generally heavy on photos and sometimes a little light on for detail. Well this one is the complete opposite. Strap yourselves in for an unexpected adventure.

Remember how I glibly mentioned at the end of yesterday’s post that today was a travel day and that we were catching the train from Salzburg to Hamburg?

In late October I booked most of our long-distance rail trips for this holiday and Salzburg to Hamburg was no exception. After extensive research I decided on a 10am departure from Salzburg which would arrive in Munich at 11.41am. The connecting train would leave from Munich at 12.14pm and arrive in Hamburg at 5.57pm. I had made sure to allow enough time for the connection and it was only 1 change that we had to manoeuvre bags on and off trains.

We were in Strasbourg just after Christmas when we received an email from Deutschebahn (DB), the German railway operator. The email advised that the revised departure time from Munich on a different train was now at 11.21am, 20 minutes before our train from Salzburg was due to arrive. Clearly this was not going to work. I was not sure what our options would be so I decided that I would speak to someone in person when we reached Salzburg rather than trying to communicate via email.

On Wednesday morning we went to the ticket office in Salzburg and the staff were very helpful. We left with new times, tickets and seat reservations. We would now be on an earlier train departing from Salzburg at 8.33am and arriving in Munich at 10.24am which allowed us almost an hour before the 11.21am departure and arriving at 5.03pm, earlier than I had originally intended but most welcome.

However, the earlier departure did mean that we would have to make an early start from our Salzburg accommodation. We left in the dark at 7am to walk through the old town on wet and snowy cobblestones and then a short bus ride to arrive at the station in plenty of time. It was 7.45am and we discovered that the incoming train (from Warsaw) was running late and we were due to depart at 9.10am, a delay of 37 minutes. We eventually left Salzburg about 9.20am but when we were near the fringe of Salzburg suburbs the train came to a grinding halt for about 15 minutes. There was no announcement but I did see police officers walking up and down the external corridor of our carriage. After about a 15 minute delay with no explanation we were finally underway and we thought that the hiccups were behind us.

When the conductor came to check our tickets I explained that we would not make our connection in Munich due to the delays. He was not fazed and simply checked his timetable and printed out a new voucher/ticket for a later train from Munich at 12.24pm. We would still have a window of about an hour in Munich so I was confident that I solved our connection issue.

We did not have a seat reservation so when we arrived in Munich I went directly to the ticket office (along with many others), received a ticket to see a customer service officer only to eventually be told rather tersely that the window for seat reservations had closed so we’d just have to take pot luck. I figured that I did not have much choice and was resigned to the fact that we might spend 4.5 hours sitting on our bags in the vestibule of the train but it was a small price to reach our somewhat elusive destination of Hamburg.

Eventually the ICE train pulled in and there seemed to be plenty of unreserved seats. We settled into 2 facing window seats with a table, removed our coats, beanies and gloves and it was about 5 minutes until the scheduled departure. Then the announcement that struck fear into my heart, “This train is CANCELLED. All passengers must disembark”! Would we ever get to Hamburg?

It was back to the ticket office for another round. The queue of customers trying to get answers stretched well out the door of the large ticket office and onto the concourse. When it was my turn I got a more sympathetic and helpful person who spoke extremely good English and we eventually agreed that the best option was the 2.57pm train direct to Hamburg arriving at about 8.30pm. This meant that we had nearly 2 hours to wait and the train was not yet listed on the departures board.

Time to buy some lunch, find charging points for our phones then sit and wait. The sleet/snow outside was distinctly unappealing as we nearly froze in the concrete box which masquerades as Munich Station. When our train finally appeared on the board there was no allocated platform showing but I figured that would come up soon.

Anyway, with about 15 minutes until the scheduled departure I went and asked at the Information Office and the customer service officer said, “That train is not going”. I was gobsmacked and still trying to understand what this meant. As I asked, “What do you mean?” she printed out a new schedule/ticket and thrust it at me and said “Get on the 2.45 train to Hamburg or you’ll be stuck here tonight. It’s the weather”.

I was not about to argue so we did as we were told and thankfully the departure platform was very close to where we had been sitting. A quick sprint to Platform 14 and we boarded the first carriage with no great expectations. Even without a seat reservation there seemed to be plenty of space and we managed to get window seats facing a table. Once we were settled I actually had time to look at the new schedule I had been given. We would need to change trains at Mannheim with a mere 5 minutes connection but thankfully the trains would be on adjacent platforms. The downside was that the journey time was much longer and the scheduled arrival time in Hamburg was 11.34pm.

The connection at Mannheim was achieved without a hitch and we are now ensconced in our seats through to Hamburg. I am now writing this saga while we stop at what seems to be an interminable number of intermediate stations between Mannheim and Hamburg. The train is also travelling at reduced speeds because of the snow and ice due to the bad weather which has impacted much of northern Europe over the past few days.

Despite the challenges which have dogged us and many other train travellers over the past few days, it is all part of the adventure. I will be happy to climb into bed when we finally arrive in Hamburg although I suspect that will be after midnight at the rate we are going.

This is not my photo as I don’t have any relevant to today’s long-winded story but it is the ICE (Inter-City Express) trains that we have travelled on from Munich today.

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It Is Winter, After All

In the 2 days since my last post I have seen and experienced more snow than I ever have in my life or am likely to in the future.

Snow in all its forms – flakes drifting past the window in the breeze, steady snowfall settling on every available surface, fresh powdery snow, piles of snow pushed aside by snow ploughs, muddy slush in gutters and on footpaths, snowy drifts in rural areas, snow covered distant (and not so distant mountains).

Yesterday we caught a bus to Untersberg, a little over 20km south of Salzburg. It had begun to snow lightly as we arrived at the base station of the cable car at 456m elevation. In about 8 minutes you are at the top station which is 1,776m above sea level. I am definitely not a fan of cable cars and the like but I have taught myself to endure them so that I do not miss out on experiences where this is the only option. However, the ride to Untersberg was the most challenging for me and even GMan admitted that he was relieved when we reached the top. It seemed like an eternity as we were stationary for a short time while all we could see ahead of us appeared to be a sheer rock face mostly covered in snow. Anyway, we made it there and back in one piece.

The cable car ride begins.

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A view from further up but before we were fully engulfed in cloud and fog.

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The advertising for Untersberg describes panoramic views of Salzburg and the Alps. We had no illusions that this would be the case yesterday. GMan bravely stepped out onto the terrace for a moment or two but other than that we adjourned to the cafe.

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Once we were back in Salzburg we visited the second Mozart Museum. The displays and artifacts were really interesting but was not really suitable for photographing. By mid-afternoon the snow had set in so after a late lunch we adjourned to the apartment and simply enjoyed watching the wintry weather from indoors.

Today we made the best use of our Guest Mobility passes (free public transport within Salzburg province to all overnight guests) and caught the S2 suburban train to the end of the line at Strasswalchen which is about 30 minutes north-east of Salzburg.

Some scenery en route.

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The town is not particularly noteworthy but we enjoyed walking around and simply seeing how the locals live everyday in the winter. There were people walking, riding bikes and shovelling snow from their driveways. However, my favourite moment was when we saw 3 or 4 young girls of about 9 or 10 crouched down scooping up snow near the gutter on the corner of a side road. I thought they were making snowballs but in actual fact they were building a snow ‘dam’ across the gutter so that they could cross the gutter via the compacted snow rather than getting their boots wet in the water and slush.

We walked back to the station alongside the frozen canal. Judging from the footprints, people use it as a walkway in winter.

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It has not snowed here today so since the snow ploughs have cleared most of the roads and footpaths it is definitely easier to get around although you still need to be careful.

Here are some views of the old town near where we are staying.

Salzburg Catherdral

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Funicular heading up to Hohensalzburg Fortress.

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Some more views this evening. Since Epiphany (6th January) the Christmas lights and decorations are being progressively dismantled but the area is still very prettily decorated.

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Tomorrow is a travel day as we head to Hamburg. According to news reports it has been hard hit by snow from the winter storm which has pummelled the UK, Netherlands and northern France over the past 48 hours. Therefore, I expect that snow is going to be ever-present for the remainder of the trip as we continue our way north over the next 10 days before flying home from Helsinki.

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Salzburg – Stunning in the Snow

Yesterday we travelled from Vienna to Salzburg – about 3 hours by train. We then caught a trolley bus followed by a 600m walk to our accommodation. That all sounds pretty easy until you add in a temperature of -7C, luggage and snowy/icy cobblestones. However, we managed to remain upright and made it to our accommodation safely.

We went for a short walk later to buy a few groceries and were rewarded with this view on our return walk.

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I had researched the Salzburg Card and bought it online as we decided that it would definitely be good value for the things we wanted to see and do.

Our first mission today was to return to the railway station as we had received an email advising that there was an issue with the connection in Munich for our next trip from Salzburg to Hamburg on Saturday. The young lady at the desk was most helpful and altered our tickets and seat reservations to an earlier departure from Salzburg so that was sorted out quickly and efficiently.

A view of the river as we crossed the bridge.

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The accommodation that I booked is a mere 100 metres from the funicular which takes barely a minute to ride to the Hohensalzburg Fortress which dominates the skyline above the city. The fortress includes the small but fascinating Marionette Museum as well as the Fortress Museum.

Some views in and around the fortress.

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Later in the day we headed to the first of 2 museums dedicated to Salzburg’s most famous resident – Wolfgang Mozart. This one is located in the house where he was born and lived until he was about 17 years old.

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The highlight of the day was undoubtedly the view over the city from Hohensalburg Fortress.

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All Aboard for Bratislava

Yesterday we made a quick hop across the border to visit Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia. It lies a mere 50km from Vienna and is less than an hour by train but is a world away from the glittering excesses of some aspects of Vienna. It is over 35 years since the dissolution of the Eastern Bloc but the influence of the Communist era seems to remain at least in some aspects.

The Presidential Palace.

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Like most European cities, Bratislava has an historic ‘old town’ area which was where we spent most of our time.

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A small restaurant where we had beef goulash for lunch.

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The UFO bridge is officially known as the Bridge of the Slovak National Uprising and was not without controversy when it was built in the early 1970s. About one-quarter of the old town, predominantly the Jewish sector and a synagogue were demolished to make way for the approaches to the bridge. This clearly is still of concern as evidenced by the murals and information boards located in an underpass on the approach to the bridge.

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Our day trip to Bratislava was an interesting change of pace from Vienna.

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