Nina coat

March 16, 2026March 15, 2026 ~ PoundCake ~ 15 Comments

Muffin update: she’s been wearing the sweater I knit her frequently! Like, picking it out herself and putting it on, without bribes! So that slightly justifies the last clothing item I had kicking around on my Mini-Muffin to-do list, an unnecessary spring coat.

After muslin-ing a full-length coat for me, it was fun to work on a petite version of that kind of garment. This is the Nina coat from Shwin Designs. It’s really, really simple – as in same-pattern-pieces-for-outer-and-lining simple – but for $5, it’s a hoot. Circle skirt, oversized collar, giant buttons; this is doll clothes for people. The pattern was an impulse buy last spring, when I printed and assembled the 3T pattern. I sewed it with nary a minute to spare, because Mini-Muffin is approaching 3, and this fits precisely.

I used mostly stashed scraps of Shetland flannel in Peach for the outer fabric but the circle skirt necessitated the purchase of another yard. Even if I split the skirt along the side seams I’d have needed to buy more fabric. So all roads led to…leftover scraps of Shetland flannel in Peach. Well, the stash giveth, and the stash keep havingeth. The lining is thin, smooth cotton from a library craft swap, and while cotton isn’t a perfect lining, it was a happy enough match in quantity and color that I didn’t want to resist. I used the lining fabric as sewn-in interfacing for the collar, too.

I had a wee scrap of Nani Iro double gauze that I sewed as a patch on the back facing – and oh, I added a back facing! This is the optional icing on the optional cake, as far as I’m concerned. Not clear what it benefits except hanger appeal but I traced our salad bowl for the curve and I had fun sewing it. The hanging chain (putative) is a piece of broken bracelet that I thought might work, though it’s so so dinky in context. But when Mini-Muffin spotted it she claimed it with her full power so now the coat has a teensy loop (“make it fancy!”).

You can see the puckers on the inner collar here; the outer has them too. The collar piece has no indication as to which edge meets the neckline. The short edge was too short and the long edge was 1” too long, but too long, as they say, isn’t too short, so that was the winner. For some reason I eased it in instead of trimming it to fit. I pressed the neckline seam allowance up instead of open, as directed, but probably should have heard-and-obeyed. It’s a bit thick there.

The collar also has a tendency to balloon open, which I addressed by topstitching in three separate spurts.

I added width to the sleeves, ¼” to each long edge, ½” total extra per sleeve. Psychologically helpful even if physiologically unnecessary. My only handstitching is at the cuffs, joining the lining and flannel outer.

This jacket is not bagged and the lining goes right to the edge of the hem. I thought about adding a facing there, but a liiittle too late.

There was a Threads article many years ago about cutting a hem facing by extending a curved skirt piece your chosen number of inches and then trimming the excess to use as a facing, which seems a lot easier and more fabric-efficient than cutting a long skinny curved piece by itself. Anyway, I didn’t do that! But if I was gonna do it, that’s how I woulda done it.

The pattern also has no pockets. I guess that reduces the chances of machine-washing a gummy bear, but I added pockets. I tucked them into the waist seam; they’re just ordinary faced pockets with a shaped opening. I intended the opening to echo the shape of the collar and it kind of does, but reversed.

The pocket facing and pocket back are rectangles; I sewed them to the curved waistline edge, ignoring the curve, then trimmed the overhang.

My last minor change was to use the outer fabric for the facings, backed with the lining cotton, instead of lining edged with bias. I interfaced just the center of this piece, for the buttonholes. Of which there are two, because Mini-Muffin was extremely firm on this point: two!!

Fun fact, these buttons are from the baggie of buttons I bought and used for the very first shirt I posted here on the ol’ blogaroo.

This was a fun project. Smooth, except for the collar issue, but I can’t get too het up about that because I have the experience to adjust it (if not the judgement to actually do so!), and also the finished coat isn’t suffering. It’s cute! The great irony of the toddler is that this is a really fun scale to sew at, not so tiny that it creates issues yet small enough that it goes quickly and cheaply, but also…toddlers hate clothes? Very O. Henry.

Maybe this coat will even be handy, but that was truly not the point! As springtime silliness goes, it’s fine by me.

–

Pattern: Shwin Designs Nina coat

Pattern cost: $4.28

Size: 3T; added 1/2″ to sleeve width (additional 1/4″ to each long seam)

Supplies: 1 yard of Shetland flannel in Peach, Gather Here, $11.56; scraps of Shetland flannel in Peach, peach cotton, from stash; thread, Michael’s, $2.68

Total time: 6 hours

Total cost: $18.52

Body of Work

March 6, 2026March 5, 2026 ~ PoundCake ~ 15 Comments

Original take here, but I don’t think it’s that easy or pleasant to buy a well-fitting bathing suit. This wasn’t formerly an issue because I don’t love swimming very much, but Mini-Muffin does, and on days she swims, she naps!! Ergo, my current swimmies aren’t up to the schedule.

I wanted a one-piece but companies do not want to sell me a one-piece. Geographical features across my topography are variously a M, L, or XXL, per many website sizing guides, and apparently one-pieces aren’t sold cross-sized. I tried to buy RTW anyway, and ordered and quickly returned one suit.

Surprisingly, I liked the high cut leg of the RTW suit I bought-borrowed, but I wanted something with more visual weight at the bust. Shopping helped me zero in on the cut I want – high leg, wide straps, ideally a square neck. The leaders in this category were the YouSwim Aplomb and the Left on Friday Streamline (slight tip towards YouSwim for showing fatter models) but it is evident that neither have swim cups, and for $200 I would like 50¢ worth of foam thrown in, please.

SO, FINE. I’LL SEW THE THING. (EVENTUALLY.)

BUT FIRST!

The last time I made a swimsuit I just mashed together two patterns, but this time I thought I’d mash together a pattern and a trace. I traced the RTW suit before returning it (sidebar, I hate when a tutorial for anything begins “trace a well-fitting x”. If I had a well-fitting x I would not be out here reading tutorials). I used the top of the Halfmoon Atelier tank, a pattern which is found nowhere on the website but apparently is still free when you sign up for the newsletter (scroll down). I matched the top point of the shoulders and charted a middle course, using a somewhere-in-between bust and waist measurement and moving the armscye from the tank lower to approach the height of the side seam in RTW. I also widened the straps slightly.

Then I chickened out.

I’d watched a few Edgewater Avenue videos, primarily this one that confirmed that yes, you can sew a fully lined swimsuit using basically the same steps as a lined waistcoat, and I looked through their patterns, too. One, the Marina, was discounted to $4 because of its limited size range. But it had the thing I was most nervous about: a seamless span from shoulder to crotch that I could compare against. I figured a second opinion at $4 was worth the change.

I assembled the strappy halves of the Marina front and back, cut a M bust blending to an XXL hip, and compared it to mine. Discoveries: the gussets were the same width (standardized, perhaps?) but the Edgewater Avenue suit moved the crotch seam back, which I wouldn’t have thought of but expect is more comfortable. Also, the leg opening on the Edgewater suit was a little lower, and the curve from hip to crotch was smoother. The strap was much closer to the center body but the neckline had almost nothing in common with my inspiration suit so I felt confident slicing that off and sliding it horizontally towards the shoulder, while also reshaping the neckline. And the Edgewater suit was roomier through the waist than my trace.

This shows some later changes as well. Sorry!

The pieces were different enough that I felt adopting either would be A Choice, so once again I just mushed, cutting here and taping there (the ever popular “both sides” defense). But I’m glad I bought a $4 reference point!

I decided to trial this as a bodysuit before ordering swim fabric, largely because my inexperience with technical fabric would have added a variable to an already variable-rich environment.

But I wasn’t going to line the bodysuit, so it’s not a perfect trial. Again, though, it was a very useful experience. I shortened the body by increments but ultimately removed 2” each from the back and front at the crotch – turns out, I’m an XXL width but a M height. That affected the hip/crotch line; I smoothed and trimmed it by eye, and I wasn’t aggressive enough, because there’s way too much width remaining in the gusset.

It’s not enough to be uncomfortable but enough to be glad nobody will see it, since this is very much a with-pants garment.

I tried a knit binding but it was thick and wobbly so I unpicked and finished with bands instead. The finished band width is a little greater than my ¼” seam allowance, so the actual bodysuit has more coverage than the pattern pieces, which is a mild problem at the armscyes.

Also, I’ll be able to get squarer corners at the neck when lining than with bands, though this was good enough for a test.

But seeing the straps wider showed me I preferred that, so I increased the straps of my pattern, too.

I drew one more draft with the widened straps and the crotch shortened below the hip line. Now I’m feeling reasonably confident and have ordered swim fabric for the final suit (hopefully the final suit, anyway). And I like this bodysuit as a tank, though any concerns you have about toileting are 100% justified!

If successful, I’ll finally have a one-piece. Even better, I’m gonna tire out the girl!

–

Pattern: uhhh/Edgewater Avenue Marina

Pattern cost: $4

Size: M bust, XXL hip; blended with self-draft (traced Target bottom + Halfmoon Atelier tank top; squared neck, lowered armhole 1.25″)

Supplies: 1 yard of Kaufman Laguna cotton in Sky, Gather Here, $11.92; thread from stash

Total time: 4.5 hours

Total cost: $15.92

Vinterskjørt III

February 26, 2026February 25, 2026 ~ PoundCake ~ 13 Comments

My third skirt of Skjørtvinter, the maxi version of the True Bias Blair. This is probably my final vinterskjørt (though Vinter shows no sign of stopping – blizzard of ’26 hit us with a measly 12 inches, but it landed on top of January’s 23 inches, plus more in the middle, and more to come! And my RI friends and family got *37* inches on Monday alone. I know weather talk is boring but we are putting up the numbers!).

New England weather chat aside, this is the skirt I’ve been training for. Inevitably, it’s brown. But it’s not greenish brown or copper brown; it’s DARK reddish brown! Woah ho ho! Do you even recognize me?

My trial version of this pattern was a mini in size 12. I borrowed some space from the seam allowances then, but I knew I wanted more, so this time I added ½” to the seam allowances, blending to nothing at the high hip. This twill is light, probably on the wrong side of the edge of how light you can get away with; I needed that ½”, and more! Real talk: I should be reprinting this pattern at a larger size, at least a 16, at a guess, and then getting real grabby with the darts.

The size 12 waist fits a little loosely, but that can be adjusted with the belt. So that measurement is okay. But I need more space for my belly.

I tried curving the darts, which probably helped a little, but not enough. I think when I took my measurements my numbers were jacked up by not accounting for my absolute girth. My belly is rounded forward, then my bum/hips pull the fabric back at a slant, and then my thighs pull it forward again. That’s a lot of pulling! I think I should be cutting the hip size for the measurement that accounts for all of those ins-and-outs. And the way to find that number: the posterboard thing.

Now, I can’t remember where I saw it, but my sense of the posterboard thing is that you wrap a sheet of posterboard around your belly, butt, and legs at the same time, without squeezing or gaping, and the circumference of the posterboard wrap gives you total girth. If you want to read about how to make a very FANCY posterboard there’s a post by Handmade PhD, and if you scroll down there’s some helpful diagrams of how to correctly apply even a peasant’s posterboard.

Anyway, I have yet to acquire a posterboard, so correct sizing is TBD. And I expect I’ll have to sew curved darts again, with an exponential intake – a lot at the top, swooping to a narrow dart almost immediately. But it’s worth it, because I’d like to treat this pattern as a block, and I think I can get there. So I might end up with a fourth skirt, third Blair (though more likely in Vår, for variety’s sake).

Fitting aside, sewing contained a learning curve, because with the exception of the serged side seams, I sewed the whole thing on my Singer 201. I used self-fabric for lining (and two layers for the belt “interfacing”), and I did not worry about skipped stitches. My confidence was justified. This is a good machine.

But I’m definitely still figuring out topstitching, since I rely heavily on my edgestitching foot in normal life, and I haven’t figured out how to use the 201 edgestitching foot for anything other than a continuous straight line (no corners!). So my topstitching widths are allll over the place!

I finally figured out – as in, after I finished the skirt – that I was using the needle as my guide, but the 201 needle is threaded right-to-left, not front-to-back, so of course the stitching line falls slightly to the left of the needle! Hence the topstitching on the underlapped placket.

Scanty!

Happily I’ve adjusted to the reverse function. It’s the same lever that governs stitch length and I kind of love the logic of it: the stitches get shorter and shorter until they start going backwards.

I decided to use the Duchessa for this project partly because it’s past time to get comfortable but also because this skirt is lousy with buttonholes, and I got a buttonholer attachment!

It doesn’t have the full complement of cams, but it does have 13/16”, and that’s near enough to ¾” for me. I followed this video, which is almost entirely thorough, but it doesn’t state explicitly what to do with the little grabby claw thing and it’s not framed correctly/crisp enough to see. So I also buzzed by this extremely un-thorough video, which happily fills in that gap; the claw goes around the needle clamp. It took me a good hour to sew my first buttonhole and about 3 hands-free minutes to sew each one thereafter. I had to unpick a couple because I placed them at a slight angle, but I am VERY much in the market for a complete set of cams now, especially a ½” and ¼”.

The finished skirt is not the smash hit I was hoping for, but it’s a useful step along the way. And it’s getting worn, though it could really benefit from a slippery lining. This is not a striding skirt!

Part of me is wondering if I slash-and-spread for an A-line silhouette if I can get away without sizing the column correctly, at least for now. But all of me is knowing I’m going to sew something else first.

If winter continues dumping this kind of snow, the obvious choice is a slanket.

–

Pattern: True Bias Blair

Pattern cost: NA

Size: 12, View C; increased dart intake ~1/4″ per dart at waist; when sewing side seams, shortened waistband 3/4″, added 1/2″ seam allowance below high hip, blending to nothing at waist

Supplies: 2.5 yards of Chocolate Brown Cotton Twill, $30.90, Mood; thread, Michael’s, $1.49; buttons, Etsy, $10.73; buckle from stash

Total time: 8.5 hours

Total cost: $43.12

Thanks, I Hate It!

February 16, 2026February 13, 2026 ~ PoundCake ~ 16 Comments

M8246 (oop) isn’t the pattern I’ve avoided the longest, but it’s the one I’ve avoided the longest while talking about it the most. Today, however: a muslin! This coat was too much of an investment to jump right into wool. Or more likely, wool blend – honestly, I didn’t even want to spend the cash on actual muslin (sidebar: after Sewfisticated closed, my remaining source of muslin is Gather Here, which is seductive/expensive for fashion fabrics but also sells muslin for 8!!! Dollars!!! Per yard!!!). However, following the closure of Joanne’s, my nearby Michael’s added a not-very-tempting fabric section with a tiny cutting table and this bright white poly/cotton found therein was priced at $2/yard. Also, their system is a bit buggy, because it rang up at less than $1/yard. Needless to say I tiptoed away having spent not quite $6 on 6 yards of 45” wide test fabric, with my excuses crumbling around my ears.

Several times during this muslin my internal monologue got very whiny and I had to remind myself nobody was making me do anything. I’d like to say it’s because the fabric isn’t particularly lush to work with but it’s just because every stop was sooo looong (temporally). The pattern pieces were also sooo loong (geographically), so I often had to trace most of a piece, move the fabric and pattern together on my table, and then trace some more. I could have saved myself a smidgeon of effort by cutting only one belt piece and skipping the facings, since ultimately I did not incorporate those into the muslin, but for the cost of that effort I learned that if I did this for real with narrow fabric, I’d really need the whole six yards. Blergh.

I justified the marathon cutting/tracing/cutting again session by telling myself this stable, springy poly-cotton would make a decent sew-in interfacing if/when I disassembled the muslin. But really I was thinking TO HELL WITH THIS! I didn’t cut the lining, I wasn’t particularly precise about grainline, I didn’t have to worry about pattern matching, and I still had project fatigue. Not helped by my immediate suspicion that size 16 (the smallest size in the envelope, and I absolutely cut that paper) was whoppingly too large.

But I was curious/steely/cursed (which is it!?) so I sewed the thing.

But I sewed it LAZY. I know a muslin is a good chance to practice new techniques and trial finishes, which I…didn’t. On the pocket flaps, storm flaps, etc., I sewed a generous ⅝” from the cut edge and then trimmed the seam allowance.

The pocket flaps cover nothing. I could tell I’d need to practice the welt pockets before I sewed this in good fabric but for the time being, nope, we are checking size and placement only! Skills are for closers!

I guess I did sort-of sew the walking vent placket for real, or at least real enough to know that if I was struggling with this crispy, easy-to-mark, semi-translucent fabric to get the layers lined up correctly, I was going to have a real bear of a time with wool. Also, I almost certainly did it wrong, because my placket doesn’t seem to fit in the available space.

The other set of steps that made me demand to speak to Melissa Watson’s manager was the set for the box pleat on the sleeve. 1. Is the pleat it hideous? It’s okay to say it’s hideous.

2. Why would I baste the pleat opening and sew the raw edges without pressing in between? I should baste first and and press the pleat edges symmetrically, before sewing the permanent seam and pressing that open, too! But I realized too late. I tried to jam my fingers into the space between those stitching lines and get everything to lie flat and even (my muslin philosophy did not allow backtracking) but surely there is a better way.

I deliberately left the pleat closed on the other sleeve, making it a two-piece raglan sleeve with a shoulder dart.

I’m not sure which I prefer. If either!

I did sew and turn the neckline edge of the collar, but only because I accidentally followed the directions instead of amending them for speed and sloppiness.

I had to do a fair amount of unpicking because I kept catching the wrong stuff in my seam – in my defense, there was a lot of stuff to catch. I shudder to think about moving the whole weight of a full-length coat through the machine. Lined and fully interfaced! Did I mention the ENTIRE FRONT is supposed to be interfaced? Also the front facing, the front *lining*, the ENTIRE BACK, and one-third of the three-part sleeve. That’s so much interfacing on top of all the other yardage.

I was exhausted at the notion of adjusting this to fit before even trying it on, and I had spending fatigue before I even bought anything. If you’re reading this thinking, “It doesn’t have to be this way! Put down the coat pattern and go sew some shorts, you like shorts!”, I think you’re right. This is the kind of project I’d have to adjust to thinking of in weeks, not hours, to enjoy. So it was annoying to realize I don’t hate the fit! It’s oversized and the sleeves are uncommonly long (we’re talking 3 – 4” too long) but the coat muslin, despite the aesthetic of a noddy suit, has some swagger.

But even with the big upper body and the Mr. Fantastic sleeves, I still think the hips are snug!! I can’t with this thing!

This muslin has been hanging menacingly on a hook in my office all week, awaiting photos. I’m relieved to fold it up and tuck it out of sight today. Given that my plan for most of the sewing process was to give the whole shebang away, this is a happy ending, kind of. And M8246 won’t necessarily hang out in limbo forever.

But certainly for a while!!

–

Pattern: M8246

Pattern cost: $6.00

Size: 16, View B

Supplies: 6 yards of poly/cotton, Michael’s, $6.00

Total time: 5.5 hours

Total cost: $12.00

Vinterskjørt II

February 6, 2026February 6, 2026 ~ PoundCake ~ 22 Comments

My second Vinterskjørt is here, and it’s the True Bias Blair! This is one of the commercial patterns I bought last year, on sale for $12.80, and I really had to talk myself into it because I know, you know, we all can see, that it’s a gussied-up skirt block. Two back darts, two front darts, sewn-on button placket, two side seams, one straight waistband. On the other hand: would I pay thirteen bucks for a decent skirt block? The evidence says I’d try.

And I liked the balance of the details, particularly the cargo-esque pockets. Also, I was really into the maxi view, which, naturally, took the most fabric. But I trialled the mini, since all of the zhush happens on the top third of the skirt, and it was cheaper.

The mini fits easily onto the called-for yardage – I bought 1.5 yards of Canteen Shadow Stripe Cotton Broken Twill from Mood, and I have 9.25” selvedge-to-selvedge left over. I’d have more except I accidentally cut the button bands for the maxi length, each one of which is over double the mini length. If I was willing to add a center back seam into the belt, I’d have even more! So if you’re considering fudging the yardage, I say go for it.

This 8oz twill was really fun to press and sew. No give to speak of, and prone to skipped stitches, but easy to handle and press precisely. The pockets were just plain fun to sew. In other good news, I had a fair match for the outer in my bag of scraps (specifically, my bag of green scraps. I have two bags: green, and not-green). This olive drab quilting cotton is off by a few shades but the hue is good!

This skirt came with a hefty shopping list – I spent nearly as much on notions as I did on fabric – so it was nice to find something free.

For some reason I cut a second belt piece from that lining fabric. Here is the reason: I was not paying attention. I didn’t want to waste it, so I trimmed the quilting cotton 1” narrower than the twill belt piece and used it as interlining instead of interfacing the belt. The belt is simple, but it took me ages to turn the tube right-sides-out, and I wouldn’t have been able to do it without my hemostat. Well, it took me ages the first time. Then I realized I hadn’t actually sewn the belt piece, but, in fact, my spare maxi button band. The reason: STILL not paying attention! Anyway, the second time I just pre-pressed the seam allowances and folded the belt piece in half with my cotton interlining sandwiched in the middle, and it was a lot faster and not worse-looking!

The belt, reasonably, is the last sewing step.

The hem is somewhere in the middle, so you have to take the length on faith. The mini is fairly mini. But in my opinion, not too mini. It’s like a haiku – short, and trim a syllable at your own peril. Actually mine is ¼” longer than drafted. Why? Moral outrage, of course.

That was the first of my very minor changes. When printing the pattern, I measured a 10 waist/12 hip; at time of assembly, I was on my period and measured 12/12, so cut without blending sizes. But when sewing I had a typical waffling moment and increased each dart intake slightly. In the end I shortened the waistband ¾” to match the waist, so that’s a 3/16” increase per dart. Otherwise I sewed as written.

At least until I tried it on, when I realized that the waistband was a complete non-issue but the belly/hip/thigh area was chancy at best! I tried fastening the skirt using pins, and as soon as I sat down they pinged out in every direction. The ones I could find looked like they’d been spat out by The Beast. I didn’t feel like I could get an accurate read on the fit until I added the buttons, but I was still scared into taking a ¼” seam allowance from the hem, blending back to ½” sa at the upper hip.

Instead of serging this seam, I zigzagged within the seam allowance and topstitched it towards the skirt back. Hopefully that will keep the fabric secure. I had ordered my buttons online and I awaited them with trepidation – this skirt was a cute object, but I wanted to be able to wear it.

And I can! But I still think it’s prudent to add some width to my pattern pieces before cutting the maxi. I certainly don’t regret my extra ≤1” of wearing ease. I don’t want a standing-room-only skirt! The big question: add 1/4″ or 1/2″?

Well, onwards and outwards…and hem downwards!

–

Pattern: True Bias Blair Skirt

Pattern cost: $12.80

Size: 12, View A; increased dart intake ~1/4″ per dart at waist; when sewing side seams, reduced seam allowance to 1/4″ below beginning at upper hip; took 1.75″ total hem allowance; shortened waistband 3/4″

Supplies: 1.5 yards of Canteen Shadow Stripe Cotton Broken Twill, $19.15, Mood; scraps of olive drab quilting cotton; 1.5″ buckle, Michael’s; thread, Michael’s; 20 3/4″ buttons, Etsy (2kute), $17.09

Total time: 6.75 hours

Total cost: $50.04

Curtains (almost)

January 26, 2026January 25, 2026 ~ PoundCake ~ 14 Comments

It’s curtains for me! These have been a major blocker to my creativity, not because they were challenging but because I didn’t feel like makin’ them. I’ve mentioned before that I don’t like building a stash because it feels like an obligation instead of an opportunity, and enough yardage for 2 curtains is basically an instant stash. Anyway, this project was carried over from 2025. It’s technically not done yet, because the brackets don’t arrive until early February; I’ll try to update with pictures when they’re actually hung. I want them out of my blogging queue, too.

Anyway, Mini-Muffin’s new room is extremely pleasant and full of sun, but it only took a few incidents of her waking up early crying “IT’S TOO LIGHT” before I decided to take six months to sew some curtains. I did try to buy them first but I didn’t want sheers (ineffective) or black-out curtains (personally, yuck) and there wasn’t much in the middle! I also didn’t want polyester, and once you’re searching in the narrow band of cotton/linen, you’re looking at a limited menu and often $80/panel. So instead I spent around $110 on sewing 2, which makes this unusually expensive project actually a bit of a money-saver. Kind of. The price doubled because while he shares my feelings about black-outs, Professor Boyfriend thought one layer of cotton wouldn’t get the job done, so these are lined with lightweight voile for just a liiittle extra opacity.

That lining more than doubled the sewing time. My original plan was to buy 4 yards of some yarn-dyed cotton, cut it in half, hem, sew pockets for curtain rods, and call it a day. The windows are 39” wide x 65” tall so I figured 44” w x 72” t each would be adequate to cover. We picked this Fableism Camp Gingham in Large Mist, a quiet colorway at a loud scale, which seemed like a nice balance. Also, Fableism ginghams all have the same brown selvedge, which I like aesthetically, so that was a time saver – no additional finishing on the long edges. Instead of square one, I was starting from square, like, eight.

But when we decided on a lining I ran into an odd problem, which is that cheap lightweight cotton is not easily available in 45” widths! Expensive, sure. Heavy, why not. Cheap and thin? No thank you!

I ultimately ordered 4 yards of optical white cotton voile from Dharma Trading, 55” wide. It’s hard to beat Dharma for undyed fabrics; if it wasn’t for shipping I don’t think I’d buy anything white anywhere else. Rather than messing around with cutting in a straight line (my greatest foe), I turned the selvedges over twice at a generous 2” and hemmed. This fabric was my unexpected ally, it was really pleasant to press and sew. I’m trying to decide if I need a fully see-through shirt because if so I would happily sew this again.

At this point Lisa from Pattern & Branch shared her curtain and a recommendation for Singer’s Sewing for the Home, which I requested from my library system.

This was a helpful resource for discussing minor decisions precisely, because everything has a vocabulary, including curtains! We had a lot of conversations where I was like “ooh what if the curtain had a heading” and Professor BF would be like “do we have enough fabric” and I would say no and he would say “how about tabs” and I would say “we don’t have enough fabric” and then he would be like “why did someone order 4 yards of fabric when 4.25 would have been a minor increase in expense which offered flexibility and ease, umm remind me”. BECAUSE I SHAVED A HAIR TOO FINE, MY DEAR.

Also, it has something to do with where the studs are in the wall. The curtains were going to be placed higher and wider than I anticipated. But since I couldn’t move the studs, I had to modify my plan; enter twill tape. I’d bought a 10 yard roll to stabilize pocket openings etc., and while the color didn’t match, it was neutral enough, or so I’m claiming. I sandwiched 6” loops between the gingham and voile and threw on a line of topstitching. It’ll do!

I baby-hemmed the Fableism gingham. I tried my blind stitch function first, only to discover that the spikes point inward, so I would have to bundle the entire lined curtain to the right of the needle, no thank you! Mysteriously I had plenty of fabric for a deep turn on the lining hem – generous cutting, perhaps?

These required some compromises (POV: your curtains don’t match) but done is better than perfect.

And I don’t know how people who sew trained dresses or any gown avoid stepping on the fabric. I stepped on this when I ironed it, when I measured it, when I turned the hems, when I folded it and put it away…it has known my socks. But soon it will be safely on the wall, and then I can move on to other things!

But not literally on, I hope!

–

Pattern: N/A

Pattern cost: N/A

Size: 2 39″ x 65″ windows

Supplies: 4 yards of Fableism Camp Gingham in Large Mist, Cottoneer; 4 yards of optical white cotton voile, Dharma, $102.19; Heavyweight Cotton Edge Twill Tape – 1/2″ X 36 yds. – Natural, Wawak, $8.95

Total time: 3.75 hours

Total cost: $111.14

Crossandra Mini

January 16, 2026January 15, 2026 ~ PoundCake ~ 15 Comments

Finished, one small sweater.

I cast it on before deciding I was going to take a pause on making clothes for my toddler. 2025’s end-of-year data inspired this decision – hot take, clothing patterns shouldn’t come in 2y/3y sizing, it’s the garden path! I’ve got one more project in which I’m partly invested and once that’s done, I will wait to sew more until Mini-Muffin is rational enough for bribes.

This is the Crossandra Sweater Mini (Rav link) in size 3 and its existence is due to my impulse buy of a 658-yard skein in a toddler-favored color for $10. I’d bought the pattern a year earlier but hadn’t been willing to spend real money on the yarn. This skein was enough for the whole project and I got my sprats and mackerels confused! The color is Cranberry. It’s 100% polyester, but it’s recycled polyester, and washer- and dryer-friendly.

I didn’t love-love the yarn but it’s fit to purpose. My big complaint is that it split really easily, I assume because polyester doesn’t have the grip of a plant or animal fiber. Also, it doesn’t look much different after blocking. Here’s my before of the scallops, followed by my after…

Indistinguishable, or perhaps slightly worse! Luckily wavy edges are cute. I spent a while going in with a big yarn needle and evening the tension on the bind-off, one loop at a time, before blocking, and that improvement was much more noticeable. Happily, after these scallops I feel like I’ve locked in short rows and can just do them now. Also, long-tail cast-on continues to be a stalwart, and I didn’t have to watch a video to refresh! Another successful skill installation: continental knitting. And I do mean knitting, because I tried continental purling and realized immediately it was NOT for me.

I also managed to pick up a dropped stitch AND correct twisted stitches, huge time-savers. Previously I would just frog until the coast was clear! I find the polyester less appealing to look at and touch than wool yarn, but the stitches are really clearly defined, which is helpful when learning to correct mistakes. Still can’t pick up a double stitch worth a damn, so I had to start the scallops over a couple times, and I knit probably 40 of those little pals all told.

I bought this pattern for the scallops, though going back to the listing now I see a red flag, repeated on the Ravelry project page: no modelled shots! It’s a cute object for a flat lay, and it’s got cute details, but at its bones this is rectangles. I would not have fallen for it if this was a sewing pattern!

It doesn’t exactly fit and it doesn’t exactly not-fit – much what you might expect from a simplistic design.

And I’m grumpy that such a beginner basic called for so many kinds of knitting needles. I guess I thought it was giving alts but it asks for five different “must-have” sizes, three on the neck alone. I got as close as I could with what I had but ended up buying two different sets of low-end DPNs – size US8, since my circulars top out at US6, and US2, since my smallest circulars were US3. I thought I could get away without the US2s but my collar wasn’t rolling properly so I frogged and reknit just that part, which was surprisingly straightforward, because the neck bind-off calls for knit-togethers, not slipped stitches.

Anyway, who is this customer who needs a pattern for a garter stitch box but owns needles of every size? She is not me!

And also why DPNs? I bought them because the size was right, they were cheap, they were in-store, and because the pattern said so, but I didn’t do anything that I couldn’t do with circulars, and I suspect a straight needle would also have worked fine for the bind-offs! Is this a personal taste thing?

I’m a circulars gal myself, if gal type is a component part of knitting. And this and my last sweater have reconciled me to being a picking-up-stitches kind of gal, too. Easy to find your row in garter stitch, I’m glad to say, because I had to do so for the applied i-cord and I didn’t want that to wobble and jump around.

The fun details of this pattern were indeed fun, for the most part! The i-cord was fun, the applied i-cord was VERY fun, I like short rows, and the box pleat was a pain in my butt. The folding elements of the box pleat were easy to comprehend for anyone who’s sewn a box pleat but knitting off three needles at once was plain weird. I’m both grateful it was only 3 stitches deep and also believe 3 stitches is a wimpy-looking intake.

I finagled my daughter into this sweater despite her absolute allegiance to short sleeves. I do not know if I have the strength to do so again. Not, necessarily, the best use of my resources. Did I mention I’m taking a break from toddler clothes?

Never wear = never wash…heck, since I was enjoyably wasting my time, I could have just used wool!

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Pattern: Crossandra Sweater Mini

Pattern cost: $6.88

Supplies: 1 skein (658 yards) of Lion Brand Re-Spun 100% Recycled Polyester yarn in Cranberry, $10.00, Gather Here; US2 and 8 DPNs, $9.42, Michael’s

Total time: cast on 12/26/2025; cast off 1/11/2026

Total cost: $26.30

Vinterskjørt I

January 6, 2026January 1, 2026 ~ PoundCake ~ 14 Comments

This is my first project of the year, and my first vinterskjørt of Skjørtvinter. To clarify, I plan on making a few skirts this season, and I plan on doing so within an unnecessarily Norwegian framework. Blame ~~winter~~ vinter!

This is a skirt I’ve planned for a while; it was supposed to be a winter maxi but I came up about ½ yard short, so it’s a winter midi. Also, the only difference between this and a summer midi is that I’m wearing tights. That said: s’alright!

This is not a complicated item but it took me a while to get started because I really wanted to find a buffalo check in navy and brown, and clearly I’m the only one who does. I considered navy and white, overdyed with brown, but in the last second went with black and white. It’s a versatile, stripped-back duo, and in January I’m drawn to the illusion of austerity (lemon sorbet versus chocolate gelato). I bought 2 yards of this 58” wide quarter-inch gingham cotton. Mood tends to the florid in its fabric descriptions, but it is nice – light yet completely opaque. But either it’s a shrinker, or Mood’s measuring apparatus is a stinker, because the squares on the washed-and-dried fabric are 3/16”.

I made each tier as long as possible after evening the cut edges. I hewed roughly to increasing each tier by 1.5; my top two tiers are equal in height, and the bottom tier is about double one of those. The following measurements/my cut plan include ½” seam allowance:

No scraps heading into my scrap pile. Waste not, want not! By the way, “front” and “back” are irrelevant, except for the top tier, since I added slash pockets.

I’m not totally sure why I made the top tier trapezoidal except that I saw it mentioned in a couple free patterns as a way to reduce bulk at the waist, and the True Bias Mave seems to do it too. It makes the seams a little distracting in high-contrast gingham, though.

I considered having no shaping in the top tier and only one side seam, but that would have meant only one pocket, so on balance I don’t regret splitting it into two. But I probably should have used in-seam pockets. I knew that at the time, I just prefer sewing slash pockets by like, a lot!

I made the openings pretty steep since the waist would be further gathered and I hoped they would land at a reasonable angle. Also, the pocket bag is folded vertically, the top edge is caught in the waistband, and the bottom edge is caught in the first-to-second tier seam. Really just the laziest pocket possible – one line of additional sewing and some pressing.

I used roughly the same measurements from this skirt, but increased the waistband from 45” fully stretched to 50”, since I wanted more hip room than in that original (which fell apart just so, so quickly, by the way. RIP). I used the extra length from the waistband stripe to sew the fakiest of fake waist ties.

Actually I ended up hand-sewing those.

My biggest complaint about this fabric is that the bobbin stitches looked sloppy and floaty, even though it’s a new year and I’m using a new needle! No, I change my needle more often than that. Erm. Anyway.

This waistband is actually full of funny business. I bought ¾” elastic, intending to sew two channels, but somehow my 2” finished waistband is 1 ⅞”, and those channels were too snug. So I unpicked the channel stitching, butted up the two elastic pieces, and zigzagged them along their shared length. This is a terrible idea for someone who hates elastic folding in their waistband, but I slammed some vertical bars of topstitching in a few strategic locations and now it’s merely a bad idea!

I used a mixture of seam finishes throughout, selvedges when possible and French seams when not. I had early dreams of a deep hem, but couldn’t spare the length, so it’s a ¼” double-fold. This fabric is so light that I used my scanty scraps to make little triangle patch pockets in the side seams and tucked a penny into each. This added a whopping 5 grams total to the weight of the hem, but it’s kind of fun!

Cutting rectangles from gingham was swift and pleasant, but my stamina for precise sewing declined as I went, and wobbles show. Luckily I started from the bottom up, so the longest seams (where my attention tends to wander anyway) are acceptable. And my side seams, though I say so myself, are verrry nice.

Overall I’m okay with this skirt! I sewed it to wear it with big sweaters but possibly it will appear in other seasons too. An ordinary useful skirt is fine with me, even if I’m not, like, exploding into 2026.

In other news maybe you’re like me and you re-listened to The Protomen Acts I and II recently, laughing fondly at the idea of there ever being an Act III, BUT THEN LEARNED IT WILL RELEASE THE SAME DAY THIS BLOG POST GOES UP (A.K.A. “TODAY”)!!! Oh Lord! Happy new year, everyone!

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Pattern: N/A

Pattern cost: N/A

Supplies: 2 yards of Cotton Gingham 0.25″ – Black, $25.00, Mood; 3/4″ elastic, $4.45, Michael’s; thread from stash

Total time: 5.25 hours

Total cost: $29.45

Time and Money 6

December 26, 2025December 24, 2025 ~ PoundCake ~ 14 Comments

Usually this is my first post of the new year, because I typically finish a project in that quiet week between Christmas and New Year’s. This year, however, with an impending houseguest (human, nice) and a departing one (germ, awful; a Hobbes-ian tummy bug), I think it’s safe to call it a wrap.

So let’s toootal some speeending!

This year I made the arbitrary and annoying decision to break out kid sewing into its own spreadsheet. It only became annoying right now, but right now is when I am! Rather than totally collapsing that data into the ol’ pie chart, I gave Mini-Muffin her own slice (too much pastry?), but her slice also contains patterns, notions, and fabrics. I should have further subdivided it. I didn’t, but I did chart it separately, so that slice is also a wheel. Geometrically unlikely, yet here it is:

My total out-of-pocket spend (including both sheets) was $302.98, or almost $6/week. I know avocado toast economics are scurrilous but that does work out to one fancy coffee shop beverage a week. And instead I got a sewing practice! And sometimes also a latte! About 23% of that out-of-pocket went towards sewing for Mini-Muffin; the rest was for me, and just barely for Professor Boyfriend. That percentage stays pretty steady (closer to 21%) when factoring in gift cards.

The one benefit of maintaining separate sheets is that I can check if I divided my hours similarly – 178.25 hours total, 111 ¾ of which I spent on myself (and kinda on Professor BF) and 66 ½ I spent on Mini-Muffin. Nope, different ratio! That’s a whopping 37% of my sewing hours spent on sewing for a person who changes shape rapidly, though to be fair my favorite projects for her were play objects, like these wings, which will fit indefinitely.

Also, I’ve averaged 3.5 hours a week of sewing time. Pretty solid.

I sewed 30 distinct patterns in 2025 – 19 repeats, 3 of which I altered meaningfully, and 15 new-to-me (some of the repeats were new-to-me first this year, which is how that math gets a little muddy). I also sewed 8 non-patterns, like cushions and stuff.

Separately but related I bought many more patterns this year. I noodled around with drafting, too, but time is finite and sometimes the cheapest way to pay for something is with money. I bought 3 patterns for myself, averaging $8.85/apiece, and 4 for Mini-Muffin, averaging $4.80/each. I also received 7 patterns from Twig & Tale for being a Storyteller, which was the sweetest deal in town!

Next up, something for people who like useless charts: a breakdown by fiber. Nearly every category is cotton! Just drawing lines between kinds of cotton, that’s how we do! I do like a rayon blend but I eventually re-homed the one just-rayon garment because it wasn’t wash-and-wear enough for my Lifestyle (a lofty name for remembering anew every single day that we don’t have an idea for dinner).

May as well discuss my ratio of hits-to-flops here. Not! Good! In the toddler category, I had 3 flops, 3 pending (projects that came out too big, or that were unaccountably rejected, so I’ll try again later), and 10 successes, 4 of which are already outgrown. In sewing for bigs, I had 5 failures (though one of those was a success until it ripped right up the front) and 17 successes (including 2 successful projects for PBF and a tote for a friend). Let’s sort of mush those numbers around to a 25% failure rate. I am not amused.

I also failed to accomplish my one specific sewing goal, which was to sew something on the bias.

And what, praytell, was I sewing, when I definitely wasn’t sewing on the bias?

For me, mostly bottoms, unless you allow a team-up between knit and woven tops, in which case mostly tops. One of the knit tops and one of the bottoms (shorts) were for Professor Boyfriend. My recent doll + doll wardrobe (“play”) I count as sewing for me, partly because it was so very optional and partly because sometimes I awake from a fugue state to find I’ve given the dolly a new hairstyle.

Those 21 items cost an average of $21/each including gift cards; out-of-pocket, they cost closer to $11/each. Competitive with fast fashion, I’m surprised to say, especially since my sense was that fabric price per yard was way up. I think my new fave on the block kept that figure relatively low – Fableism! I’m excited for that upcoming block print collection, by the way!

The average amount of time per item was 5 hours, which was also the modal amount.

Mini-Muffin gets the single jumpsuit on record. Her 17 items cost an average of $7/each ($4/each out-of-pocket). That’s competitive with thrifting, which comprises 80% of Mini-Muffin’s wardrobe (plus 18% hand-me-downs and 2% made-by-me. Those numbers are imaginary but represent an emotional truth, which is what…numbers…are for? I think?). That’s up from last year, when I sewed almost purely from scraps, but acceptably so!

The average amount of time for a Mini item was 4 hours, though the mode was 2.25, with a couple chunky projects raising the average.

So that’s the what! Finally, the when!

So you can see a trend here, starting in the fall. You might point your finger at generalized holiday busy-ness squishing creativity to the edges and you would not be entirely wrong! However! It is a terrifying chart because it also shows: DECLINING NAPS. At the beginning of the year, Mini-Muffin was napping 2 hours a day, but lately that number has been between 1 and zero hours. Zero is the absence of a number. I weep.

We’ll see what effect this has on my time going forward. Probably terrific!!!!

Links for nerds available here (sewing for mostly me) and here (sewing for Mini-Muffin).

I’m not setting any sewing goals for next year, at least not until I kind-of sort-of figure out a daily schedule without a daytime kiddo sleep. No goals, no intentions! Just drifting aimlessly like kelp! On the other hand, may we all be as useful, peaceful, and brimming with life as kelp.

Thanks for reading along with me, and have a happy and healthy new year!

Christmas Tree B7069

December 16, 2025December 16, 2025 ~ PoundCake ~ 16 Comments

I launched into this project with a lot of zest. The benefit of having a kiddo with a strong sense of what she likes, which, it’s safe to say, overlaps only a little with what I like, means a chance to sew stuff I wouldn’t otherwise sew. In this case, a ruffly festive Victorian-lite frock in a color that’s RIGHT in the overlap.

The pattern is B7069 (which I was convinced vanished from the internet before realizing I was searching “7096”).

I sewed view C in size 3, which called for 2 ½ yards of 45” wide fabric, but I fit it into the last 2 yards in stock of this Fableism Sprout cotton in Pineneedle. The pattern was a $5 impulse buy in some PDF sale. I probably wouldn’t have bought it if I realized it asked for so much fabric. 2.5 yards is a momma cut.

That said, I can’t imagine sewing a ruffle for myself, and sewing ruffles is actually a lot of fun!

And the bib part of the bodice is a tidy little draft with a nice low-bulk finish for the back button plackets (I skipped interfacing and added topstitching).

Also, in the words of internet feminism for beginners: It Has Pockets! My zest more than lasted through those steps. It even survived threading elastic through the sleeve cuff casings, a step I’m making peace with on a larger scale.

But eventually, my zest dimmed. Does zest dim? My zest…pithed? Molded? Fell off the counter? Anyway, let’s get to the part of the construction that took the bulk of my sewing time, stress, and also the bulk of this blog post. The sleeve/bodice/waist junction!

Background; if you imagine splitting a bodice along princess seams, everything towards the center body would be part of B7069’s bib; everything to the outer edge of the body would be added to the sleeve. Also, the sleeve is gathered to match the bib edge. So there’s a snipped and opened corner where part of the sleeve becomes the bodice’s lower edge and joins the skirt. Okay.

You’re supposed to sew the waist first and then insert the remaining sleeve. I sewed the armscye/bib seam first. Gut check, but there’s no way to finish that armscye/bib seam allowance if attached in the official order, right?

And that wasn’t going to work here. I loved the color and handle of this fabric, but it’s a shredder. So I marked, stay-stitched, and clipped the sleeve/waist corner as directed, but reversed the armscye and waist steps. I then serged the bib-to-sleeve seam (not very evenly), followed by an intrusive thought: is this an heirloom or not?

UGH. I went to my scraps and eked out enough bias binding for these curved seams (and enough straight binding for the skirt side seams and waist seam). I machine-stitched the underside and hand-sewed the top side. In retrospect I don’t think this was really the right finish, but I was in too deep! But not so deep that I thought the pockets had to be heirlooms. I serged those dudes.

This is when I started to get a dreary feeling. There were just so many layers in the seam allowances (even before I added my bias binding) and I suspected they would make the dress uncomfortable. And say what you will about toddlers, but I don’t know any who would wear uncomfortable clothes uncomplainingly, and neither should any of us, say I. But the alternative was a dress that wouldn’t survive very many washings.

Also, when attaching the sleevewaist to the waistwaist (pardon that non-technical language; I hope there’s correct jargon, but I don’t know it), I was left with a hole in every single clipped corner. I’d thought I’d sewn fairly precisely but boy, I proved me wrong. Since those corners were hidden by the ruffle, I decided a pucker was preferable to a hole, so I unpicked the ends of the bias binding on the armscye/bib seam, shoved under a bit of fabric, and then hid that messy solution under the binding again.

At the corners, the seam is only 1/16” or so past the clipped spots on the sleevewaist, so my hope is that the waist binding will add security to the seamline as well as to the fabric.

It’s so bulky, though! There’s one spot where the button plackets overlap (six layers), the ruffle is gathered (two layers, conservatively counted), the skirt is gathered (one layer, conservatively), and then I bias-bound the seam allowance (four layers). 13 layers, not counting gathers. That’s not a seam, that’s a torta chilena. It’s heavy, too.

But if you’re wondering if it’s moot because this dress is too big: yes it’s moot because this dress is too big! The bib and neck fit well, or at least not alarmingly, and that fooled me into thinking the rest of the dress would fit too. It doesn’t, to the point where Mini-Muffin staunchly declines to be put inside it, suspecting, maybe, that she would get lost in there. So we’re going to have a cooling-off period of one calendar year. Will she have a sense of personal style that’s less inclined to old-fashioned girliness in a year? Quite possibly!

But at least I’m not hurrying to get this done for this Christmas, I’m on the sparkly ornament ball for next Christmas! In conclusion: humbug.

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Pattern: B7069

Pattern cost: $4.99

Size: 3, View C

Supplies: 2 yards of Fableism Sprout in Pineneedle, Gather Here, $25.20; thread, Michael’s, thread, $4.13; buttons from stash

Total time: 9.25 hours

Total cost: $34.32