September | 2013 | Day Tripper

September 13, 2013

Nova Scotia’s sunflower maze: Get there before it’s gone

(Click on any photo to view a larger version.)

I don’t know why I even bothered memorizing the address: 1137 Highway 1.

As if a huge field filled with thousands of sunflowers could possibly escape notice.

I slow on the road to gawk. It’s hard not to. The yellow dazzles as I pull into the makeshift driveway to the farm.

I’m trying to resist the obvious pun here, but this place really is amazing.

Dakeyne Farm‘s sunflower maze is a beautiful, summery twist on the well-known autumnal corn maze (which I also love).

Tucked away on a country road between Falmouth and Hantsport, its two hectares of cheery yellow flowers overlook farmers’ fields (with “Oreo cows”), rolling hills and a tidal river.

Jen Murphy is part of the brains and brawn behind the maze.

She and her partner, Ken Wilson, along with some of his siblings, wanted to keep the family farm alive. Wilson’s parents had sold their dairy quota, and the kids knew it would be too expensive to try to get back into that business.

Someone came up with the idea of a maze, but they didn’t want to infringe on their cousin, who operates a nearby corn maze.

So, sunflowers it was.

“We had a backyard full of sunflowers, so we knew ourselves it was fun to play in them, ” Murphy says.

Fun indeed.

The flowers aren’t tall enough to dwarf most adults, but it’s still a joy to get lost in the maze. Although we received a map at the entrance, my travelling companions and I didn’t really bother to consult it, preferring instead to just enjoy the walk.

Murphy says they had a bit of a tough row to hoe at first.

They had hoped to plant the seeds by June 1 but their shipment was held up at Canada Customs for a month. When they finally did manage to plant some seeds, it rained for 20 days.

But, with two growing seasons under their belts now, they’ve gotten the hang of it.

At the end of last summer, they harvested a minivan full of seed heads, and Murphy spent the winter plucking the seeds off by hand using a banjo pick. (“It’s a technique you figure out after the first 300, ” she says.)

While Murphy and Wilson hope to one day harvest the seeds for oil – a cereal bowl of seeds produces about half a cup of oil – for now, they’re saving them to plant next year’s crop.

It’s a lot of work, but Murphy says she could never tire of looking out at the field of sunflowers.

“They’re always smiling at you. They make you happy. You can’t walk through a field of sunflowers upset – you just can’t. You can start upset, but by the time you’re in the middle, you’re feeling better.”

If you go:

1137 Highway 1, Mount Denson.
Closes after Sept. 23, but will reopen the weekend before Halloween as a “haunted maze” for young children.
$10 (adults), $5 (kids 3-12), $25 (family of four). Cash only.
Bees abound at Dakeyne Farm, but Murphy says if you don’t bother them, they’re unlikely to bother you.
Other activities on the farm include kite-flying, soccer croquet, a sunflower seed-spitting contest and more.

This article appeared originally in The Chronicle Herald.

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September 11, 2013

I love fall fairs. I blame Laura Ingalls.

Kelsey Boone grooms Buckwheat, a champion crossbreed from Southampton, before the cow is shown at the Nova Scotia Provincial Exhibition in Truro.

A reserve champion ribbon represents a lot of hard work for farmers exhibiting at agricultural fairs.

A sheep gets ready for his big moment.

Sunny skies prevailed during the last day of the midway at the Nova Scotia Provincial Exhibition in Truro. But don’t let the cooler temperatures of September and October deter you from getting out and enjoying the rides at a fall fair.

Fair-goers enjoy a ride on the Tilt-A-Whirl at the Nova Scotia Provincial Exhibition in Truro last month.

Gratuitous Buckwheat shot.

Another totally gratuitous Buckwheat shot.

Buckwheat!

(Click on any photo for a much larger version. Or to view lots of gratuitous shots of Buckwheat the cow.)

After the second or third small child got a hoof in the belly from a frantic sheep, someone in the bleachers mused aloud, “Is this legal?”

The audience watched, mostly laughing, but occasionally with a tinge of horror, as one helmeted kid after another straddled its woolly foe and tried to beat the previous record of staying aloft for eight seconds.

Inevitably, the venture ended with the child tumbling off its ovine steed into the dirt. Occasionally, it ended with tears, too.

The rodeo’s announcer didn’t exactly help calm the kids’ nerves beforehand, either.

“Isn’t that the sheep that put that kid in the hospital?” he joked.

One child bailed on the contest altogether after watching a previous competitor get bested by the sheep.

The announcer generously covered for him.

“Last-minute commitment, ” he explained to the audience.

Maybe I just watched too many episodes of Little House on the Prairie in my childhood, but I think there’s something downright old-timey and innocent about agricultural fairs that’s a refreshing and rare find these days.

Aside from the blaring pop music on the rides and the distinctly unwholesome, girth-enhancing food options, a recent trip to the Nova Scotia Provincial Exhibition in Truro felt a little like stepping back in time.

Hundreds packed the bleachers in one venue to watch kids – some as young as two or three – “ride” a stick-horse in a set course around three barrels.

Now, this may not sound like thrill-a-minute entertainment, but there was definitely a hint of suspense: Will he drop the horse? Will her tail fall off? Will she remember what order to loop around the barrels? Will he complete the course or just run back to his mum’s arms?

If you’re looking for action-packed contests, county fairs truly have it all: steer-wrangling, hay bale-rolling, ox-pulls, apple dunks, wheelbarrow and sack races and, of course, the nail-biting egg and spoon races.

For a more sedate but equally enjoyable time, check out the barns, where you’ll find animals large and small, furry and feathered, getting cleaned and coiffed and queued to vie for the coveted first-place ribbon.

Prepping cattle for the show takes a ton of work, says Jay Hiltz, herdsman at Lobster Point Farms in Chester.

The regimen begins in the spring, when the cattle get a protein-enriched grain ration. Three weeks before the competition, the cattle get washed and blow-dried every day. On the day of the show, their hair is washed, rinsed, dried, clipped, oiled, hairsprayed and glued before the judge takes a gander.

“It’s just the same as going to a beauty salon, ” says Hiltz.

And the payoff?

“Bragging rights, ” he says.

The skills of Nova Scotia’s fine craftspeople are also on display at country fairs, with knitted, quilted and rug-hooked items exhibited for all to admire.

Unfortunately, it was still too early in the season at the Truro Ex to find one of the star attractions of any agricultural fair. Most giant pumpkins are still out in the field, getting plumper by the day, waiting for their big moment later this fall.

And of course, it’s not a country fair without the award-winning grape jellies, mustard beans and pickled cucumbers.

Speaking of food, before you scarf down a cardboard tray full of “Newfoundland poutine” from a food truck, you might want to save your appetite for the pie-eating contest.

Competitors plucked from the audience at the Truro Ex donned plastic ponchos and stared down their opponents over slices of blueberry pie as the judge started the clock.

As the pie-eaters’ faces – and ponchos – turned purple from their efforts, the announcer entertained the audience with memorable quips such as, “Wild blueberries, good for the urinary tract” and “Blueberries up the nose inhibits breathing.”

Good, clean fun indeed.

Upcoming agricultural exhibitions in Nova Scotia:

Sept. 13-15 and 20-22: Hants County Exhibition, Windsor

Sept. 17-21: Queens County Exhibition, Caledonia

Sept. 27-29: Nova Scotia 4-H Show, Bridgewater

Oct. 10-14: Maritime Fall Fair, Halifax

This article appeared originally in The Chronicle Herald.

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September 6, 2013

Trans Canada Trail: A bike ride to remember

The Trans Canada Trail between Denmark and Tatamagouche leads past farmers’ fields, through forests and alongside Waughs River.

Taking a breather en route.

The trail follows Waugh River for a spell near Tatamagouche.

Cyclists stop for a break along the Trans Canada Trail on a bridge over Waughs River near Tatamagouche.

You won’t need to test the mettle of your pedals too much on this portion of the Trans Canada Trail. The flat terrain makes the ride a breeze.

(Click on any photo to view a larger version.)

In retrospect, yes, it probably was a little ambitious.

For me, a 52-kilometre bike ride is an enjoyable afternoon out. I get to see the sights, get a bit of exercise and then kick back with a beer on the front porch a few hours later.

But for my dear, sweet husband, “enjoyable” doesn’t even begin to describe such an outing. Something along the lines of “nerve-racking” would be a more apt description.

He’s been on a bicycle twice in his adult life. He’s nervous about cycling on roads with vehicles because he’s not confident in his ability to stay upright.

So, I thought if we practised on trails with little traffic, he may eventually come to enjoy it. Maybe, one day, this could be an activity we enjoy together.

“It’s like riding a bike!” I joked. “You’ll get the hang of it after a bit.”

He tried to warn me: “Frances, I’m like a kid who needs training wheels. I’m not kidding.”

He wasn’t kidding.

We packed up and headed for Denmark. Denmark, Nova Scotia, that is.

The stretch of the Trans Canada Trail in this area was described on a website as “Easy, flat.”

It sounded perfect. And it was, actually.

As far as biking terrain goes, you couldn’t ask for a better spot for novices to find their footing.

The route I planned would take us from Denmark though Tatamagouche to the border of Cumberland County and back — 26 kilometres each way. Ambitious, yes. But if at any point we wanted to turn back, we could.

The portion of the trail we followed began next to the parking lot at the Sutherland Steam Mill Museum, which was, to our great disappointment, closed on the day we visited.

The crushed gravel path led us through a wooded area, across country lanes and later through a marsh filled with lily pads, where we spotted two beautiful herons soar away from us.

The route then took us past farmers’ fields populated with bleating sheep and a dog eager to let us know who was boss.

With the exception of one motorcycle early on, we didn’t encounter anyone else on the trail for quite some time.

But pretty soon after we’d set out — wobbles, cusses and all — I’d already scaled down my goal.

Despite my most encouraging words and best efforts at coaching, my husband was still starting and stopping Flintstones-style, feet skimming the gravel to slow to a halt.

An attempt to switch gears nearly resulted in a tumble and, unfortunately, a later wobble did end with him delicately extracting himself — and his dignity — from some bushes at the edge of the path.

But he persevered.

The trail led across a bridge over Waughs River at the approach to Tatamagouche, past the Train Station Inn and directly in front of the Creamery Square, where we stopped for a rest and a margarita ice cream.

If you have the time, stop in to explore the heritage centre at the Creamery Square, which is home to a community museum and archival displays, including an exhibit about the “giantess” Anna Swan, who was 7-11.

Just past the Creamery Square, the trail follows the river for a spell, and picnic tables along this stretch offer a perfect spot to enjoy the view and a bite to eat.

At this point, my very patient husband’s patience for this little adventure was wearing thin, so we decided to turn around and head back to our starting point.

I wouldn’t exactly say he grinned and bore it, since his expression was more of a grimace by the time we got back to the car. But he was a trouper.

He actually later thanked me for including him on the trip. (Polite as they come, this is the same fellow who, on a recent camping trip, offered to split the last muffin with me — then proceeded to give me the top half of the muffin.)

Despite his exhaustion, a few bug bites and a pulled muscle, he reassured me that, although cycling may not be for him, he enjoyed the scenery.

Me too. I can’t wait to go back — perhaps with a different cycling companion — and explore the rest of the trail.

This article appeared originally in The Chronicle Herald.

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September 6, 2013

Hiking Taylor Head: Something for everyone

The beginning of the Spry Bay Trail takes hikers through a wooded area, with occasional stairs and boardwalks to help them traverse the sometimes tricky terrain.

Keep an eye open for seals while hiking along the coastline of Taylor Head Provincial Park.

The Headland Trail at Taylor Head Provincial Park hugs the rocky coastline for much of the way. Footing is difficult, but the view makes the challenge worthwhile.

A hiker pauses to enjoy the view from the Headland Trail at Taylor Head Provincial Park.

(Click on any of the above photos to see a larger version.)

Girl guide I am not.

Heck, when it comes to navigating in the woods, I’m barely even a Brownie or Spark.

I’m the first to admit that my navigational skills are not what one would call advanced. I’ve never used a GPS and, although my sister bought me a compass when I was in high school, I still have no idea how to use it.

But I love hiking, so it is always with great relief and gratitude that I encounter a well-marked hiking trail.

My need for navigational aid was amply met on a recent trip out to Taylor Head Provincial Park.

Located near Spry Bay, roughly an hour-and-a-half drive down the Eastern Shore from Halifax, this park is home to several hiking trails and a sandy beach where you can cool off in the Atlantic Ocean after your trek.

Hikes range from a one-kilometre beach walk to the 9.5-kilometre Bull Beach trail.

My accomplices and I opted for the eight-kilometre Spry Bay/Headland trail, which follows the coast of the long, narrow peninsula out to the tip of Taylor Head and back.

I love the diversity of this trail. The path winds through ferny-floored forests, along coastal barrens overlooking the ocean and directly along the rocky shoreline.

Stairs, boardwalks and strategically placed boards will help you traverse the sometimes tricky terrain through the wooded areas of the route, but the path can still be quite damp, so be sure to bring decent footwear.

The portions of the trail that cut through the coastal barrens are my favourite, both because of the stunning views and because of the smell. Although I haven’t been able to identify it yet, there’s a sweet odour I frequently notice when hiking in this type of environment, and when it mingles with the salty breeze, I always think, “I’m so glad I get to live in Nova Scotia.”

Wild blueberries and pitcher plants can frequently be spotted among the lichen and brilliant green coastal foliage.

Sturdy hiking shoes will also be needed for the lengthy hike along the water’s edge. Unlike the rest of the route, there is no worn path here; hikers must simply tread on the rounded rocks of the shoreline.

The trails are clearly marked with coloured metal tags and occasional signs that indicate how far you’ve travelled and how far you have yet to go. While making your way down the rocky shoreline, be on the lookout for these tags affixed to trees or posts for reassurance that you’re still following the trail.

Of course, don’t neglect the beautiful shoreline, either – a keen eye may spot a seal swimming along the coast.

The full Spry Bay/Headland trail is a beautiful but challenging four-hour hike. Those with mobility issues may find the footing on the rocky portions too difficult.

If you don’t fancy a full-blown hike, or if your party is divided in its choice of outdoor pursuits, the beach at Taylor Head Provincial Park is also a great place to while away a few hours.

You can swim out to a rocky outcropping just a few metres off the beach, or search for beached jellyfish in the sand.

And, as you make your way down the boardwalk back to the parking lot, be on the lookout for bunnies.

During my recent visit, three rabbits were nibbling on the grass, completely unfazed by the beachgoers who had gathered to watch them.

If, like me, you can’t tell north from south in the woods, you can learn how to navigate safely from the pros. Halifax Regional Search & Rescue offers a map and compass course a couple of times per year, including field exercises that involve bushwhacking. The next course takes place Nov. 5 and 9. For more information, visit halifaxsar.ca/learn/.

This article originally appeared in The Chronicle Herald.

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Month: September, 2013