
At the Bebelplatz in Berlin where the Nazis torched all the books is a monument you can see below the clear surface: empty bookshelves underneath. Empty.
My friend JM translated the plaque for me:
“Where they have burned books,
they will end in burning human beings.”
– Heinrich Heine, 1820
No step is your own in Berlin. But we all have places to be so you walk. You are walking with one foot on stolpersteine . . . engraved with the names of the Jews taken from that house in 1943, and the next house. From every house they were taken then murdered at Riga or Auschwitz or wherever. You are walking on their sidewalk . . . one foot on a stumbling stone, the other foot is on its way to the market for erdbeeren, schaumwein and tulpen.
JM lives here part of the time . . . until he has to come back for chemo. He takes me all over the city. We are pausing where little Jorg and Lothar chased after a ball into the kill zone and were shot dead on March 14, 1966. Their mothers weren’t allowed to retrieve the small bodies of their little boys from the spot where a couple is having a picnic today.

But it is sunny and warm, and there is no longer a wall separating this city. Dogs are chasing balls across the grass that is now a park. These are happy dogs, I say, not German Shepherds. JM says German Shepherds can be happy, too.
Not East German Shepherds, I insist. I’ve seen the movies.
Later, we walk up into the sunlight from the u-Bahn on steps announcing which Jewish businesses were torched or vandalized or closed here at the Hausvogteiplatz during the pogroms in the late 1930s.

Then I am in the middle of it.
“It” is die Musiker Mittendrin at Konzerthaus Berlin . . . and we are sitting randomly amongst the musicians who are playing Wagner’s themes. This part of the concert house wasn’t bombed, JM whispers . . . and I am vibrating with sound . . . in the mittendrin: the middle of it.
If there were plaques everywhere marking such things, we would all be alternatively screaming or singing im der mittendrin.
Knowing what we know, do we get to be happy? Even though JM is dying . . . while we are laughing, because we are happy . . . and shouldn’t we be happy? Thoughts of these days will be as happy and as they are sad for me. Don’t we get to be happy, if we can, with whatever time there is left to any of us?
“This was not judgment day—only morning.
Morning: excellent and fair.”
– Wm Styron, Sophie’s Choice
