The Enigmatic Azores

Image
Image

Grove Koger

If you research the early history of the Azores, the Portuguese archipelago that lies about 870 miles west of Portugal in the North Atlantic Ocean, you encounter quite a bit of uncertainty.  

Depending on what source you consult, you may learn that what seem to be the Azores appear on the 1375 map known as the Atles català, or Catalan Atlas. More than half a century later, in 1427, Portuguese explorer Diogo de Silves sighted a group of islands in the same area, and four years after that, in 1431, another Portuguese explorer, Gonçalo Velho Cabral, confirmed the sighting, discovering a desolate bank of rocks that have become known as the Formigas. The following year, Velho Cabral went on to discover a larger island in the area that he named Santa Maria, and, in 1444, yet another, São Miguel. As was customary, Velho Cabral claimed the islands for Portugal and his crew landed herd animals on the larger islands with an eye to future human settlement.

But what explorers, we have to wonder, supplied the information about the mysterious islands to Abraham Cresques, who’s usually credited with creating the Catalan Atlas? Would one report have been sufficient to convince the cartographer, or would he have acted only on multiple reports? In other words, were the islands fairly well known to a number of seafarers?

Image

While it’s unlikely that we’ll ever have satisfying answers to these questions, we’re now in a position to push back the history (that is, the prehistory) of the islands. A team led by evolutionary biologist Jeremy Searle has reported that mice found on the islands share genetic characteristics with northern European mice, suggesting that the far-ranging Vikings reached the islands well before Portuguese explorers did. (The same kind of evidence has linked the Vikings to the Portuguese island of Madeira, which lies a little over 300 miles from the African coast.)

There are other indications of early contacts, although they aren’t conclusive. Ecologists from the University of the Azores have found pollen from non-native crops in lakebed sediment predating the Portuguese presence, along with spores from fungi that live on livestock droppings.

But there may be more evidence still. About ten years ago, Nuno Ribeiro, the president of the Portuguese Association of Archaeological Research, reported that he had found rock art on the island of Terceira dating from the Bronze Age (3300 BCE–1200 BCE). Ribeiro also claims to have identified prehistoric underground structures carved into rocks on three of the islands. However, his claims have yet to be substantiated, and, for the time being, the only convincing case for early European contacts with the islands involves the Vikings. 

Image

In conclusion, I’ll mention two tantalizing legends drawn from the early history of the Azores. One involves the tale of a statue that the earliest Portuguese sailors allegedly discovered on Corvo, the northernmost island of the group. It’s said to have represented a man on horseback with his right arm extended and his index finger pointing … west, toward North America. Unfortunately, as statues in legends are wont to do, it broke into pieces as it was being removed. Another legend, this one slightly more creditable, involves the alleged discovery of a small cache of Phoenician coins in the Azores in 1778. The Phoenicians were the greatest mariners of their time, and they established settlements well beyond the Pillars of Hercules on the coasts of what are now Morocco and Portugal. Given their abilities, it’s not impossible that they discovered the Azores two millennia before the Portuguese and settled there for a time. Not impossible …

Image

The photograph of Corvo at the top of today’s post is by Luissilveira; the second photograph of Lagoa do Fogo on São Miguel is by Jwp1234; and the map, which dates from about 1584, is the work of royal Portuguese cartographer Luis Teixeira. All are reproduced courtesy of Wikimedia Commons. The image at the bottom is a Phoenician coin showing a ship and the mythological beast known as the hippocampus.

If you’d like to subscribe to World Enough, fill in you email address above. And if you’ve enjoyed today’s post, please share!

The Ramsar Convention & the Ria Formosa

Image

Image

Grove Koger

December 21 is the anniversary of the date in 1975 that the Convention on Wetlands of International Importance Especially as Waterfowl Habitat went into effect. Signed several years earlier in Ramsar, Iran, it’s known, for convenience’ sake, as the Ramsar Convention.  

According to the agreement’s official site, it provides “the framework for national action and international cooperation for the conservation and wise use of wetlands and their resources.” The convention goes on to define wetlands as “areas of marsh, fen, peatland or water, whether natural or artificial, permanent or temporary, with water that is static or flowing, fresh, brackish or salt, including areas of marine water the depth of which at low tide does not exceed six metres”—or a little over six yards.

Image

There are currently nearly 2500 Ramsar sites in 172 countries, ranging from Albania to Zimbabwe. The United States, for instance, can boast 41 such areas, but there are sites in a number of countries where you might not expect them—Morocco, for instance, and tiny, 62-square mile Liechtenstein, with 38 sites in the former country and 1 in the latter. The largest Ramsar site is the Rio Negro area in Brazil, which is over 46,000 square miles in area.

Wetlands are vitally important to human populations, as they stabilize shorelines and replenish groundwater, but they provide shelter and sustenance to thousands of bird, amphibian, fish, mollusk and insect populations as well. And where land and water come into close juxtaposition in such a manner, the sky widens, and you enter another, magical realm. The famous Venetian lagoon is one such realm, and so is another, lesser-known region (seen in today’s photographs) that Maggie and I have been lucky enough to visit—the 69-square-mile Ria Formosa lagoon in southernmost Portugal. An extensive series of marshes and channels and barrier islands lying along the western approach to the Strait of Gibraltar, the area is a natural park that’s regarded as one of the seven natural wonders of Portugal. BirdLife International recognizes it as an Important Bird Area (IBA), and, since 1980, it’s been a Ramsar Site as well. But for us, personally, it’s a magical realm.

Image

To subscribe to World Enough, enter your email address below. And if you’ve enjoyed today’s post, please share!

Madame Solario Visits Lake Como

Image

Image
Photograph by by Hanna Shaviv

Grove Koger

A novel titled Madame Solario was published in England and the United States in 1956, and although it quickly became a bestseller in both countries and was subsequently translated into nine other languages, few knew its author’s name. The novel had appeared anonymously.

The following year, however, Life Magazine revealed that the author was one Gladys Parrish Huntington. Born December 13, 1887, she had traveled widely as a child and young woman with her parents, visiting London, Paris, Biarritz, and Rome, as well as … Lake Como, the Northern Italian setting of her novel. It seems that her wealthy Quaker family owned a villa on the shore of the lake and summered there for several years.

Image
Pre-World War I postcard

Set for the most part in the Hotel Bellevue in the resort of Cadenabbia, Madame Solario records the impact of its title character and her brother, Eugene Harden, on a small cast of fellow guests. She herself is languorously beautiful, and has the face (thinks one character, a little ominously) of a Medusa. The brother is handsome and ruthlessly calculating. They make a striking pair, but more than a whiff of scandal accompanies them, for (as we learn from gossip early on) the sister had been seduced by her stepfather when she was fifteen and her brother had shot and badly wounded him. Harden was exiled to “the other end of the world,” but now he’s reappeared—at the Hotel Bellevue—and he brings with him a sense of thwarted desire that gradually suffuses the entire novel.

Later, as Madame Solario nears its climax, a doctor advises the beautiful woman’s young admirer: “You may know that geologists speak of faults when they mean weaknesses in the crust of the earth that cause earthquakes and subsidences.… And I will tell you something out of my own experience. There are people like ‘faults,’ who are a weakness in the fabric of society; there is disturbance and disaster wherever they are.… Young man, go away from here! Get onto solid ground as soon as you can!”

Image

Although Huntington (seen above in a photograph taken late in her life) knew the setting well from her childhood, her novel’s plot was entirely imaginary. She pointed out that she didn’t have a brother, nor did she have “any great friends who were devoted brother and sister.” And the novel’s title? It simply came to her, she explained, in a vision in Rome when she was 17.

Writing in The American Scholar in 1970, Mary Renault (herself an acclaimed historical novelist) described Madame Solario as “one of the finest novels” of the twentieth century. She went on to explain that its “ firmness, delicacy and restraint of the handling, the perceptiveness with which the quite large cast of characters is drawn, the way in which mounting tension is achieved without the least concession to melodrama, can stand comparison with Henry James and are achieved with more economy.”

Image
John Collier, Spring at Cadenabbia (1911)

The reference to James is apt in more ways than one. He mentions Cadenabbia in passing in his 1909 travel book Italian Hours, and devotes a kind of fusillade of words to Lake Como’s resorts. They have, he writes, “figured largely in novels of ‘immoral’ tendency—being commonly the spot to which inflamed young gentlemen invite the wives of other gentlemen to fly with them and ignore the restrictions of public opinion,” etc., etc. He goes on to devote well over one hundred words to pointing out that the resort’s appearance is operatic. But Huntington, as Renault points out, manages to be just as discerning in far fewer words.

I was a little surprised to learn that the hotel in question, the Bellevue, is also real, having been founded as the Grand Hotel Cadenabbia in 1802. The 1913 edition of Baedeker’s Northern Italy explains that the resort draws “many English and American visitors,” and lists the Bellevue, “adjoining the Villa Carlotta, with shady grounds on the lake” as offering 150 beds.

Image
Photomechanical print dating from the last decade of the nineteenth century, reproduced courtesy of the Library of Congress

Next I turned to my treasured Tauchnitz copy of Richard Bagot’s Lakes of Northern Italy, originally published in 1907. It turns out that Bagot is impatient with those very same visitors: “Like all such places in Italy, those who do not leave England in order to meet their compatriots and lead an English life, with all its drawbacks and none of its advantages, in a foreign country, will find it infinitely more pleasant and attractive out of the spring and autumn seasons than during them.”

But then I happened on this passage, which I found more than a little suggestive, even though its subject is meteorological rather than geological: “In this upper portion of the … lake storms are apt to be sudden and violent, and the winds sweep down the mountain passes and valleys with great force. There are many signs, however, by which those who know where to look” will “receive ample warning of what may be expected.”

Image

If you’d like to subscribe to World Enough, enter your email address below:

And if you’ve enjoyed today’s post, please share!

Edith Durham’s Albanian Quest

Image

Grove Koger

As I expand and update When the Going Was Good, I’m posting revised entries from the first edition. Today’s deals with the most famous book by Edith Durham, who was born December 8, 1863.

□□□

Edith Durham, High Albania (London: Arnold, 1909)

Edith Durham attended London’s Royal Academy of Arts, where her works appeared in two one-woman shows, and seemed to have embarked upon a promising career as an illustrator, particularly of zoological subjects. Yet she found her ambitions thwarted and her own health damaged in caring for her sick and aging mother. When a doctor prescribed travel, Durham chose the lands bordering the southeastern coast of the Adriatic Sea, some of them still under ostensible control of that “Sick Old Man of Europe,” the Ottoman Empire.

Image

Durham was so taken with the region that she returned repeatedly, painting, taking photographs, collecting textiles, and writing. Profiting from a custom exalting women who behaved as men, she visited Serbia, Montenegro, and Macedonia, but it was the Albanians who excited her keenest interest. (That’s her that you see above on horseback in a 1913 photograph by D. Loch.) Correctly anticipating that they would be neglected by the Great Powers when the Ottoman Empire expired, she championed the Albanians’ cause and became known among them as “Queen of the Highlanders.” Her outspoken views also brought her into public conflict with most other commentators, including fellow writer Rebecca West.  

Image

Illustrated with Durham’s own photographs and drawings (one of which you see above), High Albania is the fruit of three journeys undertaken with a local guide over a period of eight months, a record rich in incident and anthropological detail. Its title, by the way, refers not only to the northern provinces in which the writer traveled but also to their mountainous terrain. Durham believed that in its blood feuds and tribal antagonisms, this little-known part of the world represented Europe as it was a millennium before, but she could not help admiring its people’s courage and steadfastness. “In the Balkan Peninsula, as elsewhere,” she concluded somberly, “the fittest survive.” 

Image

Durham also wrote Through the Lands of the Serb; The Burden of the Balkans; The Struggle for Scutari (Turk, Slav, and Albanian); Twenty Years of Balkan Tangle; and The Blaze in the Balkans: Selected Writings 1903-1941. To learn more about her, see Marcus Tanner, Albania’s Mountain Queen: Edith Durham and the Balkans (Tauris, 2014).

□□□

To subscribe to World Enough, please enter your email address below. And if you’ve enjoyed today’s post, please share!