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Dodging the smoke at Glacier National Park

#Glacier #Travel

During the year+ that we spent planning our trip to Glacier National Park, the venture was threatened by several disasters, tragedies and inconveniences: trails being closed due to a deadly bear attack, then remaining closed due to snow not melting; severe flooding and evacuation of the main area we planned to stay; the most convenient airport being closed for renovation — but all of that ended up being fine for us. Most luckily of all, we went just in time to avoid heavy wildfire smoke that began descending in the final days of our trip and continued getting worse in the weeks to follow.

We arrived there on July 18 eager to get some relief from Michigan’s own bout of smoke, mainly resulting from wildfires in Canada, which made the air there smell like a campground full of freshly lit bonfires and pushed Detroit to the point of having the worst air quality of any city in the world. So I was a bit dismayed when we got to Montana and I detected the thinnest, barely perceptible haze in the air. I seemed to be the only one noticing it. Then, when we went a bit up north into Canada to spend a night at Waterton Lakes National Park, there was no longer any doubt — there was smoke up here. People were commenting on it.

Haze
Smoke-tinged mountains on a boat tour of Upper Waterton Lake.

It thickened the next day, and our friends back down at Glacier started noticing it there, too. By the time I was back at home blogging about the trip, posting photos of some of the best views I’ve ever seen while hiking, those vistas were obscured by smoke. It seemed like half the comments I got, mostly on Reddit, were from people wondering how I’d gotten such clear photos, lamenting they hadn’t been there at the same time as us, asking if I thought they should cancel their upcoming trip.

As is our custom, we watched the smoke’s progress on webcams provided by the National Park Service.

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Here are the photos we got from this angle a couple of weeks earlier.

Morning shot

View with clouds

Evening shot

We’ve gotten some particularly apocalyptic screenshots from the Lake McDonald webcam.

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Air quality in the area around that time.

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For comparison, here are some shots we took from this camera in the weeks before our trip:

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One final shot from the Two Medicine camera, looking like something a probe would send back from Venus (minus the evergreens).

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Drop caps of "Life on a Mediaeval Barony"

#Books

Recently I came across the 1922 book “Life on a Mediaeval Barony: A Picture of a Typical Feudal Community in the Thirteenth Century” by William Stearns Davis, preserved by Project Gutenberg. It explores daily life in the 1200s through the lens of a fictional barony, with chapters about what mornings were like in the castle, the games people played, clothes they wore, their education, etc., etc.

I was almost completely distracted from the text, however, by the illustrated drop capitals, with their miniature knights and castles and towns. I saved all 23 of them and put them here. There was one repeat — the first drop cap in the book, an “I” with a knight standing next to it — but otherwise they were all unique.

A

‘A’ with people

‘A’ with seal

‘A’ with armed men

‘A’ with women

B

‘B’ with castle

C

‘C’ with castle on hill

E

‘E’ with castle

I

‘I’ with knight

‘I’ with distant town

N

‘N’ with castle

O

‘O’ with dignitary

S

‘S’ with armed party

‘S’ with mounted spearman

T

‘T’ with castle

‘T’ with town

‘T’ with musicians

‘T’ with mounted and walking men

‘T’ with house

‘T’ with man outside town gate

‘T’ with seated woman

W

‘W’ with castle

‘W’ with cavalry

‘W’ with castle

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Hiking Johns Lake Loop

#Glacier #Hiking #Travel

While we were driving Going to the Sun Road during our recent trip to Glacier National Park, we stopped for a 2.27-mile hike at the Johns Lake Loop. It took us about an hour. We figured it would be a nice way to stretch our legs with an easy hike, but I’m not sure I’d choose to do it again. I think it sort of zapped my energy for the rest of driving Going-to-the-Sun Road, and I spent much of the remainder of the drive with the end in mind. I’m not sure the hike was so good that it made up for that, but it was still a pretty good amble through the forest. Here it is, photographed and timestamped.

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Looking to the right from the bridge, you can see a waterfall, McDonald Falls, as a speck of rushing white water at the end of the corridor of trees.

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To the left, Lake McDonald.

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Seeing Gravelly Shoal and Charity Island lighthouses from Cemetery Beach

#Lighthouses #Michigan #Travel

We recently saw our 65th and 66th lighthouses — Charity Island Lighthouse and Gravelly Shoal Lighthouse — while driving home from a trip to Oscoda, Michigan. Both are a few miles out in the waters of Lake Huron, one on the shore of an island and one standing on the lakebed. It’s just barely possible to see both from the shore. We did so from “Cemetery Beach,” a public beach tucked along the highway next to a local cemetery.

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Map

Gravelly Shoal Lighthouse was built as a New Deal project during the Great Depression, using an “art deco” design previously used elsewhere in the Great Lakes, per Lighthouse Friends.

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Remarkable photos of the tower being hauled into place can be seen on Terry Pepper’s blog.

Terry Pepper’s photos

According to Lighthouse Friends, this lighthouse sold at auction in 2015 to a guy named Bill Collins, who also bought other lighthouses in Michigan and Delaware. The sale was still pending as of September 2016, per the Detroit News.

In the first place, Gravelly Shoal Lighthouse had been built to replace nearby Charity Island Lighthouse, which was built on the biggest island in the area in 1857 but was no longer sufficient for 20th century traffic. Our view of this lighthouse was not nearly as good as Gravelly Shoal, but I think we did see it.

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We viewed the lighthouses from a stretch of beach that was effectively the backyard beach of a lot of really nice houses, but you’re allowed to walk it. We got to the beach from a little trail connected to a parking lot next to the Sims-Whitney Cemetery.

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Sterling Heights Athletic Hub at 1 month

#Metro-Detroit #Michigan

Yesterday marked one month since the grand opening of the Sterling Heights Athletic Hub, an indoor pickleball and ping pong center built by the city of Sterling Heights. I went over around 12:30 p.m. to take a look at how it’s doing.

exterior

It seemed like there was some electrical work going on out front. A red work truck from Advantage Electric & Controls was parked outside, and a ladder was set up in front of the doors, leading up to a hole in the ceiling where a panel had been removed, from which there came the clinking and grunting sounds of a man at work.

ladder

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When I walked inside, a friendly lady behind the counter immediately greeted me with a well-delivered, non-overwhelming rundown of the facilities. I asked her how busy the Athletic Hub had been in its first month, and she said it had been “pretty busy but not unmanageable.” While I was there, I counted two people playing ping pong, 15 people playing pickleball across four of the courts and saw a handful of people in a side room on laptops, having a meeting.

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courts-side

Next to one of the courts, a sign showed the concept art for a mural being painted on the backside of this building by Sterling Heights resident Wendy Popko. It’s modeled after the classic “Greetings From…” postcard design, with illustrations referencing local landmarks and events filling and surrounding the letters of “STERLING HEIGHTS.”

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Her agreement with the city originally had a deadline of July 10, the day before the grand opening, but she didn’t end up hitting that deadline. She was out there working on it yesterday, with substantially more completed than when I last saw it a month ago.

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The left side is almost all filled in; where before there were sketch lines and a blob of background color, we’re beginning to be able to see Upton House, the oldest house in Sterling Heights, and the Halo, the city’s controversial roadside sculpture.

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The right side is a little more filled in than it was before, but still patchier than the left side.

mural-right

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"Roadside Picnic" by Arkady and Boris Strugatsky

#Books

I recently finished reading “Roadside Picnic” by Arkady and Boris Strugatsky for a book club I’m in. It’s a 1972 science fiction book about what happens after aliens briefly visit various places on Earth and then leave forever, rendering those areas totally corrupted, something like the Chernobyl exclusion zone, infested with alien hazards and littered with dangerous trinkets of advanced, unexplainable technology.

I liked this book a lot. I read it in six days, something like four or five sittings. It had me genuinely hooked at one point, turning pages for a good hour longer than I’d expected to when I sat down. One chapter is a bit of a stinker compared to the rest, shifting perspective to another character and introducing a lot of confusion for no real good reason, but otherwise it was an exciting, surprising, quick and easily recommendable read.

The way our book club works is we all submit books, put them on a wheel and spin it to decide which one we’re reading next. After five books, we arrived at mine — this one. I’ve been wanting to read it for a while, probably ever since I was a kid online, seeing it mentioned as the inspiration for the S.T.A.L.K.E.R. series of video games and 1979 “Stalker” film by Andrei Tarkovsky. I knew about both of these growing up, but they always seemed a bit too hardcore for me. I’ve never played or watched either, but the games are a type of intense survival thing I don’t tend to like, and the movie always seems long and artsy and uninviting. Both are more enticing now that I’ve enjoyed their source material, however loosely based either of them actually are.

Here are some quotes I liked from the book.

Book cover

As the protagonist, Redrick, looks through the treasures he brought back from the Zone, I thought it was uncanny how directly it seemed to prefigure the experience of sorting through loot in a video game. The original kernel for the modern extraction shooter genre must somehow lie in the story of Redrick as a “stalker” repeatedly entering the Zone for items to sell on the black market.

He put on a rubber apron, pulled on elbow-high rubber gloves, and started unloading the items in the bag onto the table. Two empties. A box of pins. Nine batteries. Three bracelets. And another hoop—resembling a bracelet but made from a white metal, lighter and about an inch larger in diameter. Sixteen black sparks in a plastic bag. Two perfectly preserved sponges close to a fist in size. Three shriekers. A jar of carbonated clay. There was still a heavy porcelain container, packed carefully in fiberglass, remaining in the bag, but Redrick left it alone. He took out his cigarettes and lit up, looking over the swag laid out on the table.

This passage had a dotted underline on it on my Kindle, indicating that a lot of people had highlighted it — I think the only such passage in the book:

The problem is we don’t notice the years pass, he thought. Screw the years—we don’t notice things change. We know that things change, we’ve been told since childhood that things change, we’ve witnessed things change ourselves many a time, and yet we’re still utterly incapable of noticing the moment that change comes—or we search for change in all the wrong places.

Michigan mention! It came up in a description of the weird occurrences that happen when former residents of the Zone region move away, bringing the Zone’s weird curse with them. Appropriately, the Great Lakes geography is way off.

The son of a barber and the grandson of a barber. He moves to, say, Detroit. Opens a barbershop, and all hell breaks loose. … The heavens open, and Lake Ontario or Michigan, or wherever Detroit is, bursts its banks.

This description of entering the Zone really hooked me into the book during my first sitting with it:

The sidewalk’s getting closer and closer, there’s the shadow of the boot inching over the brambles . . . Here’s the Zone! And instantly a chill runs down my spine. I feel it every time, but I still don’t know whether it’s the Zone greeting me or a stalker’s nerves acting up. Every time I figure I’ll go back and ask others if they feel it too, and every time I forget.

These weird hauntings in the Zone were highlights:

Over the pile of ancient trash, over the colorful rags and broken glass, drifts a tremor, a vibration, just like the hot air above a tin roof at noon; it floats over the mound and continues, cuts across our path right beside a marker, lingers over the road, waits for half a second—or am I just imagining that?—and slithers into the field, over the bushes, over the rotten fences, toward the old car graveyard.

The houses in the Plague Quarter are peeling and lifeless, but the windows are mostly intact, only so dirty that they look opaque. Now at night when you crawl by, you can see the glow inside, as if alcohol were burning in bluish tongues. That’s the hell slime radiating from the basement. But mostly it looks like an ordinary neighborhood, with ordinary houses, nothing special about it except that there are no people around.

Redrick kept looking toward the road. It was now dark and he couldn’t see a thing, but that one was out there somewhere—marching like a windup toy, stumbling, falling, crashing into crosses, getting tangled in bushes. “All right,” Redrick said aloud. “Let’s go.”

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Haydn's Symphony No. 19

#Haydn #Music

I first listened to this one last week when it auto-played in the car while Camilla and I were on our way to the store to buy a few things for our trip to Oscoda. We let it play, rather than fiddling around to find another song. To refresh my memory, I listened to it again today while walking around on my lunch break, eating a banana.

Haydn

The first movement (‘Allegro molto’) kicks it off with resonant horn blasts and energetic strings. It never lost steam, staying forceful and worthwhile through all six minutes. It’s led by a strong motif of four rising, sharply punctuated notes and multiple times seems about to end before this phrase rings out again. After a couple minutes there’s an ear-catching minor turn that recurs for the rest of the movement.

The second movement (‘Andante’) opened up with some real character, eerie with a bit of quirk. There’s a dramatic moment it does a few times that I really like, where high strings repeat a sharp, alarm-like note while lower strings respond to it with a descent through an ominous scale.

The first seconds of the third movement (‘Presto’) are immediately great, churning through a quick succession of toe-tapping, high-energy passages. It didn’t seem to develop much on these, but I never quite got tired of them before the two minutes and 45 seconds of this movement had elapsed.

This symphony was overall remarkably short and sweet. Finding hardly anything to fault and having enjoyed it from start to finish, I must award it the first 5-star review of this series.

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Versions listened to: Academy of Ancient Music/Christopher Hogwood
Length: 13:15
Next up: Symphony No. 20

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Walking the Au Gres scenic outlook

#Michigan #Lighthouses #Travel

On the way home from our recent trip to Oscoda, Michigan, we camped one night south of Au Gres, a small town along Michigan’s Lake Huron coast.

Map
The yellow circle marks the general area known as Point Au Gres. We camped on the southern side of the circle, and the town of Au Gres is a little bit inland.

While eating breakfast the next morning at Stormy’s Diner, I asked the one lady who seemed to be doing everything how the town’s name was pronounced (she seemed satisfied with me saying “Aw Gray”). In the ensuing small talk, she recommended we check out a scenic walk just outside of town before heading home.

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Stormy’s Diner.
Scenic outlook map
The pier is marked as ‘Scenic Outlook’ on Google Maps.

We followed her directions and arrived at a roughly half-mile-long pier sticking out into Lake Huron, giving nice views of the shoreline and one offshore lighthouse. Foliage along the narrow walkway was close and dense, and we recorded eastern kingbirds, northern yellow warblers, barn swallows, song sparrows and red-winged blackbirds.

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It was a nice little activity to wring out of Au Gres, which otherwise I wasn’t seeing much of interest in. Here are photos of the whole thing.

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Driving Going-to-the-Sun Road

#Glacier #Travel

On the fourth day of our recent trip to Glacier National Park, we spent most of the day driving Going-to-the-Sun Road, a scenic highway through the Rocky Mountains commonly hailed as one of the prettiest drives in the U.S. It was definitely a breathtaking drive, and worth doing, but it didn’t strike me as significantly more breathtaking than other roads I’ve driven in the Yellowstone and Banff areas. It’s inherently cool to be driving in the mountains, and you can probably only do so much to make that fact even cooler with nice design features and good observation points.

We started early with one of the marquee hikes, stopped several times along the way to take in the scenery, once to do another hike, and then toward the end got lunch at Lake McDonald Lodge. Here are photos of the whole thing from beginning to end.

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06:44: We arrived early at the Logan Pass parking lot, where the Hidden Lake Overlook trail begins. This parking lot has a reputation for filling up early, so we kept track of it on live webcams ahead of time and determined that this was a good time to park.

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07:09: Starting to hike the Hidden Lake Overlook trail.

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08:01: Arriving at a view of Bearhat Mountain, with Hidden Lake at its feet.

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09:13: The gift shop back at Logan Pass. It was too crowded to buy anything.

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09:28: Now we got properly underway with Going-to-the-Sun Road. We made our first real road stop at Oberlin Bend, which had some charming stone walls and a sort of balcony overlook of the valley below.

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All the Lake Huron traffic I saw from the beach in Oscoda

#Michigan #Travel

We just got back from spending a few days on the beach in Oscoda, Michigan. Here are photos of almost all the watercraft I saw out on Lake Huron — no freighters, just jet skis, pontoons, fishing boats, windsurfers and tiny sailboats.

Map
The yellow circle shows the approximate area these photos were shot from.

Monday, Aug. 2

Jet ski

Boat

Fisherman

Jet ski

Boat

Jet ski

Kayak

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