parting shot: st. clair

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St. Clair was a neighborhood placed high atop one of Pittsburgh’s south hills. The past tense is appropriate here because little remains within the borders of this isolated patch of land overlooking the Monongahela. The neighborhood used to be home to St. Clair Village, a public housing project with 680 apartments that was built in the 1950s. St. Clair Village is completely abandoned now; demolition crews were tearing down long brick buildings as I pulled up on my bike.

 

St. Clair is an example of urban planning gone wrong, but unfortunately, it’s not a unique example. There are hundreds of St. Clair Villages around the country, places where the underserved are sent to become further marginalized. To be sure, I don’t mean to suggest that places like St. Clair are borne out of a mean-spirited intent to exclude, but geographically isolated housing projects have proven time and again to be misguided. Geographical isolation often equals economic and social isolation; does it make any sense to locate 680 of the city’s poorest families, many without their own transportation, at the top of a steep hill, with only one bus route and one crumbling sidewalk connecting them to the grocery store three miles away?

 

According to an article that appeared in the Tribune last summer, the decision to tear down the project was based on “perceptions of violence and crime and a dwindling population.” Painted on the side of an old recreational center, a mural featured tombstones marked with the names of sixteen homicide victims from St. Clair, an alarming number of deaths for such a small area. St. Clair Village, however, wasn’t always known for violence and crime. The same Tribune article mentioned that early residents of the community remembered it “like at a kibbutz, where you’re self-sustaining, and you’re so close together, you’re more like brothers and sisters.” There was a bakery, a grocery, and a clothing store. Looking at the ruins that exist there now, it’s hard to imagine where any of those neighborhood conveniences might have stood.

 

While taking some pictures around St. Clair Village, I was asked to leave by the foreman of the demolition crew. I told him I was just taking a few photos and wouldn’t disrupt anything but he insisted that I be on my way. “What are you even taking pictures for?” he asked me. I wanted to tell him that I was documenting every neighborhood in Pittsburgh and St. Clair was next on my list. But in a strange way the foreman had a point; there was no longer a neighborhood for me to photograph, just the sad remnants of one. “I promise you there’s nothing to see up here,” he said, and I hated to admit that he was right.

 

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mural in st. clair village

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Found on the wall of a defunct rec-center. Assuming the names on the tombstones represent victims of violence, and assuming those victims were from St. Clair Village, it’s frightening to think how pervasive violence was in this community. The 2000 census listed around 1450 people living in St. Clair, making the 16 names on the mural 1/90th of the population.

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appalachia in st. clair

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Brian O’Neill’s recent book dubs Pittsburgh the ‘Paris of Appalachia.’ I’m hoping to grab my copy tonight at an author appearance in Upper St. Clair. Having not read the book yet, knowing full well that the term applies to more than simple aesthetics, and understanding that the title of the book has sparked some controversy over whether the term is affectionate or slightly disparaging, I’ll base my agreement with O’Neill’s title purely on the above picture.

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parkwood road

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Parkwood Rd is the northern border of St. Clair and sits in a hollow surrounded by very steep hills. There’s a strip of houses on the street and I’m guessing that if you live on Parkwood Rd., you have incredibly strong legs.

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what remains of st. clair village

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The buildings, mostly cordoned off with tape warning of Asbestos risks, are gutted and boarded up. The grass is getting long near many of the buildings, but, somewhat strangely, guys were going around on riding mowers, cutting the grass in the entirely abandoned project.

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st. clair

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St. Clair is a neighborhood placed high atop one of Pittsburgh’s south hills. Or, St. Clair was a neighborhood placed high atop one of Pittsburgh’s south hills. To be fair, the borders of St. Clair still exist and there are still a few stand alone homes within these borders, but the neighborhood of St. Clair is/was largely associated with the St. Clair Village housing project that, until recently, took up most of the area.

St. Clair Village is abandoned now; demolition crews were tearing down the long brick buildings as I biked around.

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in lieu of a formal neighborhood post…

No time to explore a neighborhood today; I was on a 9 hour train from NYC to PGH.

I’ll cut to the chase: Since I graduated college a few years ago, I’ve wanted to live in New York. The restaurants, culture, excitement etc. I still think it’s a fantastic place. But, wow, how my feelings have changed since moving to Pittsburgh.

While riding the subway last night, I imagined the places people were heading home to and the amount of money they were paying for those places. I imagined how tiring it would be to have to look so damn cool all the time. I imagined how much extra money I’d spend monthly when Dogfish 90 Minute IPA is $8.50 a bottle, not the $4 it is here in Pittsburgh.

Riding along, pondering, I felt like I was part of a secret club. A club where $400 gets you an apartment with a balcony and a backyard in a cool part of town, where there’s no pressure to spend hundreds of dollars on clothing to look like you’re poor, where a good beer/movie/meal/art/everything doesn’t cost more than it should.

I don’t intend to malign NYC. It’s just that living in Pittsburgh gives me a whole new idea of what living in a city can, and should, be.

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parting shot: arlington

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Barely legible in the above picture, ‘Last of the ’48 rail cars- 1968’ is written on the mural. The mural is joined on this building by several other murals of ‘Arlington Memories.’

Also in the above picture you can make out a few of the remaining businesses on Arlington Ave. What you can’t see in the above picture are the vacant storefronts that line many other parts of Arlington Ave. Murals of memories are great- it’s always nice to recall a place’s heyday. But what if the memories didn’t have to be just memories? Wouldn’t it be better if the mural just said ‘Arlington’ and had images of things that were happening in the neighborhood currently?

Arlington is by no means a forgotten neighborhood; people are still huddled outside of Stella’s waiting for their pizza, kids are still going nuts in Arlington Elementary’s schoolyard. True, rail cars don’t cruise up and down Arlington Ave. anymore and some of the neighborhood’s historic buildings are no longer, but wouldn’t it be nice to celebrate the life that remains in the neighborhood and take steps to ensure that things don’t just end up as more memories?

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stella’s

On Arlington Ave, in a great old building, sits Stella’s Pizza. This place is good eating. I had the ‘Pittsburgh Steak’ which I was told is steak and cheese with fried peppers and onions. It was bomb. So is this accurate? Is a ‘Pittsburgh Steak’ just a cheese steak with peppers and onions? Thoughts?

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the steepness

From Arlington Ave. southward, the streets slope down steeply; pedestrians are offered stairways with handrails to make the descent a bit easier. These steps could use some stimulus package.

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abandoned arlington

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Arlington is home to a decent amount of abandoned buildings, both residential and commercial. The picture on the left shows a building on Arlington Avenue that’s been boarded up and covered in gang tags. The picture on the right offers evidence that the neighborhood used to have a little bit more going on. I couldn’t find any info on the Spring Lane Hotel but it’s a safe bet that it hasn’t been around for a while.

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hilly streets of arlington

An even mix of brick Foursquare, frame and low lying brick houses dot Arlington’s hilly streets.

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arlington one stop house-porn and garden tour

There are a few beauties in Arlington, but this one stopped me in my tracks. It’s on Arlington Ave. and I’m pretty sure it’s just inside the official neighborhood borders. Wow. According to tax records it’s from 1898 and has 2 bedrooms and 3,500 feet. So it apparently has the two biggest bedrooms ever made. The house is home to Maria’s Ideas, the business of Maria DeSimone Prascak, an artist who does murals, mixed media and pet portraits. Leave your snarky comments at the elegantly framed door; the pet portraits appear to have paid off.

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nagel’s

If you’re in Arlington, and you’re at a bar, you’re at Nagel’s. Before I happened upon the bar, I was lost while biking around and asked a passerby for directions:

Me: “Hey there, I’m lost- could you help me find Parkwood Rd?”
Passerby: “Sure. Head down Arlington and then you’re gonna make a left and pass Nagel’s.”
Me: “What’s Nagel’s?”
Passerby: (Stunned silence) “So you’re not from around here, huh?”
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arlington

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Arlington is a neighborhood located in Pittsburgh’s hilltop. The neighborhood is mainly residential, with Arlington Ave. acting as a commercial strip along the neighborhood’s northern border. The housing stock is varied with older brick homes sidled up next to newer frame houses.  Mainly laid out on a loose grid, most of the streets rise and sink dramatically along steep hills.

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