Taking a quick break from Art Deco this week because we finally bit the bullet and visited Morocco in February. Unfortunately, SleazyJet flights leave Nice at six o’clock in the morning. Guess who spent the three hour flight fast asleep?
The Kingdom of Morocco is the most westerly of the North African countries known as the Maghreb – “the West”. It has Atlantic and Mediterranean coastlines, a rugged mountain interior and a history of independence not shared by its neighbours.
Its culture is a blend of Arab, Berber, European and African influences.
Morocco was a French protectorate between 1912 and 1956. Since independence, Morocco has remained relatively stable and wields significant influence in both Africa and the Arab world.
In 1975, Morocco annexed the former Spanish colony of Western Sahara. Since then it has been the subject of a long-running territorial dispute between Morocco and its indigenous Sahrawi people.
France and Morocco may be 1,800km (1,125 miles) apart, but they share a history that spans over a millennium, including Morocco-based pirates trading French slaves, a 20th century European conquest filled with brutal battles and rebellions, and a close trading relationship across several sectors in the present day.
How it all began
Marrakech was founded in mid-11th century by Yūsuf ibn Tāshufīn of the dynasty of the Almoravids, and it served as the Almoravid capital until it fell to the Almohads in 1147. In 1269 Marrakech passed to the control of the Marīnids, whose preferred capital was the northern city of Fès. Although Marrakech flourished while serving as the capital under the Saʿdīs in the 16th century, the succeeding ʿAlawite rulers resided more often at Fès or Meknès; however, the Alawites continued to use Marrakech as a military post.
In 1912 Marrakech was captured by the religious leader Aḥmad al-Ḥībah, who was defeated and driven out by French forces commanded by Col. Charles M.E. Mangin. Under the French protectorate (1912–56), Marrakech was for many years administered by the Glaoui family, the last of whom, Thami al-Glaoui, was the chief instigator of the deposition of Muḥammad V in 1953.
Surrounded by a vast palm grove, Marrakech’s Medina, a UNESCO World Heritage site founded in 1070, is its vibrant, walled “old city.” Known as the “Red City” for its 19 km (12 miles) ramparts of beaten clay, which were built during the residence of the Almohads.
Among the surviving gates to the medina, the stone Bab Agnaou is particularly notable. The Medina is a bustling maze of souks, workshops, historic palaces and the central Jemaa el-Fnaa square.
Rather than walk around the Medina, we used one of the many friendly tax drivers to give us a tour. This is what we saw:-
The 19th century Bahia Palace showcases intricate Moroccan tilework (zellige), carved wood, and serene courtyards. It’s currently undergoing a much-needed renovation but it’s still possible to visit.
EL Badi Palace is a stunning example of 16th century Moroccan architecture and culture. It’s a testament to the grandeur of the Saadian Dynasty and the beauty of Moroccan art and design. Like the Bahia Palace, it too is undergoing much-needed renovation.
The Royal Palace of Marrakech is not open to the public, but it’s certainly worth a drive around its perimeter. It’s the largest palace in Morroco and has been used as winter quarters by royal families for centuries.
Ben Youssef Madrasa is a former Islamic college renowned for its stunning architectural detail and central courtyard.
The Slat Al Azama Synagogue (Lazama) was founded in 1492 and operates as both a synagogue and a small museum.
The lavish Saadian tomb complex, filled with Italian Carrara marble and gilded honeycomb muqarnas, was almost lost to history, but was thankfully uncovered by aerial photography in 1917 – and has been a colourful, intricately tiled crowd-pleaser ever since.
Jemaa el-Fnaa is the Medina’s central square and “beating heart,” famous for its transition from a daytime market to an evening open-air festival featuring storytellers, musicians, and food stalls.
The Koutoubia Mosque is a 12th century landmark with a 77 metre (252 ft) minaret that serves as a primary navigation point throughout the medina.
Tucked away in the medina, Le Jardin Secret is a cluster of majestic Arab-Andalusian and Moroccan palaces, centring around a meticulously restored Islamic garden – which is often a metaphor for ‘heaven’ in Arabic scripture.
We enjoyed a quick taxi ride north-west of central to arrive at the up-market Ville Nouvelle neighbourhood, where a trio of cultural delights awaited us. First up is Jardin Majorelle, a botanical garden created by the French painter Jacques Majorelle in 1923 which became known for its striking splashes of ‘Majorelle blue’.
By 1947, Majorelle had opened the garden to the public, but it eventually fell into disrepair. Thankfully, in 1980, it was saved from developers by Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé, who set about restoring it. The Pierre Bergé Museum of Berber Arts can be found inside the garden and showcases the clothing, jewellery and homewares of the Berber people through a collection of 600 objects.
Finally — and fittingly — the neighbouring Yves Saint Laurent Museum is a tribute to the designer’s life, work and enduring love of the Red City. Designed by French architectural firm Studio KO, the building itself is a highlight. Tickets can only be purchased in advance and I would suggest buying a combined ticket with entrance no later than 09:30 am.
Gueliz, which brims with art deco buildings, trendy bars and eateries, and a buzzing art scene, is just a few streets over. Here, set just a few minutes’ walk apart, are MACMA (the Museum of Moroccan Art and Culture), contemporary gallery Comptoir des Mines and independent exhibition space Loft, which champions emerging talents from across North Africa.
We stayed in a hotel outside of the Medina and woke up bright and early — around 6.30am, to be precise — when the call for prayer echoes through the city. While our hotel met all of our requirements, we did dine at other hotels. We headed to Amanjena, a ten minute drive out of town, for dinner. The food was fine but we loved its bewitchingly cinematic features: archways framed by sweeping drapes, stately palms and tall terracotta pillars.
We also ate at La Mamounia – gorgeous grounds – and enjoyed cocktails a la Alfred Hitchcock at La Mamounia’s low-lit Le Churchill bar, where jazz plays late into the night.
We also dined at the Royal Mansour – my favourite – and wandered around the hotel’s sumptious grounds.
Fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent once said:
Before Marrakech, everything was black. This city taught me colour
After spending a few days here, we understand exactly what he meant. The Red City, with its serpentine alleyways, bustling souks, dramatic light and ancient architecture, is a riot for the senses. It was a haven for bohemian spirits in the 1960s and 70s, attracting everyone from The Beatles to The Rolling Stones — a legacy which continues to shape Marrakech’s youthful and friendly culture today.
View from the Back 
