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We headed northeast to the city of San Jose Del Cabo passing resorts, golf course and hotels. They were all shining and new but not very interesting. It seems that the most popular word in names was Encantado. We drove for about 15 minutes passing over the estuary that the Jesuits used for water then around a roundabout and back across the bridge. There was an interesting sculpture in the roundabout. Some distance away was a large copper cross that replaced a wooden one but we weren't close enough to see it.

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Our last stop was in downtown San Jose del Cabo where we went for a short walk before being dismissed for shopping. We visited the town hall and a display of busts of people important to Baja California Sur. We were near the church but we could not go inside because they were having mass. Our three and ½ hour tour ended where we started at the dock. I had a look but there was nothing I wanted to buy and no postcards of the place. The conclusion is that Cabo is a pretty place without much substance.

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We have heard about Cabo San Lucas for years but never took the time to go there. We were somewhat surprised at what an artificial place. On our tour we learned that sometime in the past the Mexican government decided that Cabo San Lucas would be a resort. They closed the fish cannery and rebuilt the town making it into a resort. Actually it had came a long way from being a Jesuit outpost to playground for the rich and famous.
The name Cabo San Lucas means the Cape of Saint Luke. It is located in the Mexican state of Baja California Sur which is a sliver of land separating the Gulf of California from the Pacific Ocean. The city is located on the eastern side of the tip of the peninsula on an crecent shaped bay. A few miles to the North East San Jose del Cabo founded in 1730.
At the end of the bay is a huge set of rocks that mark the boundary between Gulf and Ocean with a rock arch among the formations. Between us and the rocks was another cruise ship in for the day. It was the Oceana Regatta which holds about 680 passengers. Cabo has long been a destination for cruise ships but here isn't a grand pier so we had to take the ship's tenders to shore. For really big ships there is a fleet of Cabo Tenders.

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We got up late and went to breakfast. It was quiet around the ship. I spent some time talking with a women who used to work in Washington DC for the National Association of Wheat Growers. That was an interesting talk because I didn't have to explain as much to her. I missed the last session with Steve Wozniak but Emma told me that I had not missed much. Woz took questions from the audience and there were some of the dumbest questions posed on very inappropriate subjects.

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We dressed for dinner and decided to eat in the Main Restaurant. The Colonnade was serving the same things but if you are dress you might as well do the “whole enchilada” at the Restaurant. The Patio Grill was closed to get ready for the New Year's Eve Party on deck.

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Dinner was a fixed menu of what the chef thought was the most elegant of foods. It was a fixed menu starting with a bit of lobster on top of a scallop plopped in cream. The second course was Cepe Soup followed by Seared Foie Gras. Then a pallet cleanser of Orange and Compari Sorbet, as one does need the pallet cleansed.

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The main course for us was Chateaubriand with vegetables and potato sticks. It was good. The Main Restaurant does know how to cook things well done.

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Desert was a signature creation of a Chocolate Piano. The plate had a musical staff painted on it. The desert was a three dimensional grand piano with a slab of chocolate as the lid. The body of the instrument was cake covered with a chocolate shell. There was a keyboard of black and white chocolate. The structure sat on three legs of soft chocolate. Propped next to it was a bow tie with the words Happy 2016.
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Here we are all dressed up for dinner on the ship.

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It was a beautiful night.
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Docked beside us in Manzanillo was the much larger Crown Princess with 3080 passengers. There was an amazing difference between the two ships. The Seabourn Odyssey was about ½ the length and two thirds the height. It was astounding to see them side by side.

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I had one last thing I wanted to see before I boarded the ship. Manzanillo had been named the Sailfish capital and in honor of that there is a giant sculpture of a sailfish in blue along the shore. It is part of the area's effort to build an image and attract cruise ships. There were 29 that docked there in 2015.

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Monumento al Pez Vela is 30 meters tall and 25 meters tall dominating the seafront. The sculpture is by Mexican sculpture Sebastian who is famous enough not to have a last name. The locals call the statue “el camaron” which may be taken as a less flattering name for such a monumental piece because it means shrimp in Spanish.

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We sailed at 6:00pm leaving the Crown Princess behind. Ron and I weren't particularly worried about being seen by passengers in the other ship because we faced their lifeboat deck. We steamed out into the sunset. Dinner was on our horizon.
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We returned to the port. Along the walkway to the ship was a collection of statues representing Mexican Hairless dogs, Xolo for short, that had been painted in artistic ways. In fact, these dogs could be seen all over the State of Colima. There were a half dozen on the pier. Called Los Tesoros Bien Perros, Treasures of good Dogs, there are 21 reproductions of Xoloitzcuintles decorated with various techniques by local artists. They were originally displayed in the Plaza de San Franando in 2014 but many of them seem to have migrated to the cruise dock perhaps hoping to be fed.

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After our visit to the archaelogical site we drove to Comala for lunch. Called “White Village of America” as the facades of the buildings in town have all been painted white, The town has chosen the nickname of “Pueblo Mágico” in 2002 because it was declared a Historic Monument Zone. The city chose as it's symbol a precolumbian piece of art called the Dancing Dogs.

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The dogs which are Mexican Hairless called xoloizcuintles are depicted as standing on their hind legs and appear to be dancing but the story goes that one of the dogs is old and scared and is imparting wisdom into the ear of the younger dog. In any case, the city has built a giant version of the statue in a roundabout at the entrance to the town.

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We saw a lot of the town because the bus driver could not make the tight turns so had to drive through and come back to the central square where our restaurant was located. Call Don Comalón the restaurant was a pleasant place with tables spilling into the square. We were given two drink coupons and sent into find a table. The food consisted of Tortillas folded over a filling of beans and fried or fried flat and covered with guacamole. The waiters buzzed around serving dozens of tour buses. We had about 45 minutes in the square. I bought a few postcards and a pair of Dancing Dogs.

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There was a simple church across the street named San Miguel del Espiritu Santo. The square was full of vendors. There was a Nativity scene that was exactly the same statuary as the one in Colima but in a different arrangement. The Square also featured a small Gazebo that wasn't quite as grand as the one in Colima.

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La Compaña was the largest prehispanic population center in western Mexico. This archeological site shows a relation to the classical period Teotihuacan culture. The Spaniards discovered the place in 1524 but it wasn't opened to the public until 1995. That site is about 134 hectares between the Colima River and Pereira creek but archaeologist think they have only explored about 1% of the site.

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The ancients built a lot of stepped platforms and walls with good drainage. There are some shaft burial sites on the property but the one we visited was hard to see and enjoy.
Large stairways and platforms abounded. One near the parking lot had sets of steps coming from each of the four directions. It was thought to have a religious purpose. All were made of stones with some kind of cement to connect them. It was an interesting place to explore.

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Ron could be found reading the newspaper over the shoulder of Don Enrique Ceballos. It commemorates the 50th anniversary of the Ceballos Hotel on another side of the square. Don Enrique was the hotel founder in 1956.

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The Basilica sits next to the Government Palace on the square. This Neoclassical church with two towers and it dome in the front was built in 1894. The door is graced with a motto that seems rather disturbing until you realize that the translation of Misericordia is Merciful.

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The inside is rather plain but I didn't do a lot of exploring because the priest was saying mass. I found the inner doors very interesting in that they had elaborate wooden designs over the glass.

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Outside flanking the main door was a couple of carvings. One was St. Sebastian complete with arrows. One arrow was missing as evidenced by the plain round hole. I don't know who the other carving depicted but he is shown with a sword and a horse.

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We visited the regional museum on the next side of the Square. It was originally the home of Miguel de la Madrid Hurtado who was later the President of the country in 1982. His bust stands outside the building in recognition of his contributions to Mexico. The museum founded in 1988 contains pre-columbian artifacts including a recreation of a shaft tomb.

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I was a 100 kilometers to Colima but via a four lane toll road it went pretty fast. Manzanillo is situated between two curved curved bays. Our ship was parked in the west bay. We made our way up and over the hills and headed inland toward the volcanoes of Volcán de Fuego and Nevado de Colima. Guess which one is the active one!

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We drove to the center of town where we were dropped off at the central square, Jardín Libertad.It was a pleasant tree filled space with a gazebo in the center. Diagonal walks crossed the park with a fountain at each entrance. It was either a goose or a swan I could not really say but the neck was stretched upward and spitting water.

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Our first stop was at the Government Palace for a look at a mural by Colima painter Jorge Chávez Carrillo. The work called ¨México Independiente¨ was painted in 1953 runs up the staircase leading to the second floor and the Governor's office depicting scenes of Mexican History. It shows people like Pancho Villa and Emiliano Zapata. One wall depicts Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla , a local priest who lead the peasants and miners in a rebellion in 1810.

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Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla

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Manzanillo

Dec. 31st, 2015 01:45 pm
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Manzanillo is Mexico's busiest port handling all the goods arriving by ocean for Mexico City. It is known as the "Sailfish Capital of the World" hosting fishing contests since 1957. Manzanillo Bay was discovered and started its long journey in 1527. The name comes from the Manzanilla (Hippomane mancinella) trees that were used for shipbuilding
Now there is lots of tourism and fishing. The city is known for the green flash phenomenon during sunsets. The green flash is cause when the sun dips below the horizon in an area with only ocean. The sunlight passes through the water momentarily creating a green flash of light.
Manzanillo is a city of 600,000 in the Mexican state of Colima. Much of the city has been torn up to build a new bridge spanning the railroad. We decided to explore two inland cities, Colima and Comala and some archaeological ruins on a tour from the boat.

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Tuesday was another day at sea. People love or hate these but are never very neutral about the subject. A lot has to do with the reason for sailing in the first place. If you are there to see places then a day at sea seems a waste. If you are there for relaxation then it is a gift to have no where to go. People who have sailed more tend to stay on board even in port. I spoke with some passengers who sailed this same route for three years in a row. They couldn't be bothered to get off the ship.
One tour that is offered occasionally is “Shopping with the Chef.” He visits the local produce market and buys food for the ship. You get to see him in action as he haggles with the locals and picks the freshest of fish and vegetables. That tour would be impossible with a bigger ship but with 450 passengers there are only a few who get to go and he doesn't have to buy the quantities that would be required for a bigger ship.
There are multiple tours so it is possible to have a different adventure each time you visit a port. Even the same adventures are different each time. I think of the port visits as an overview. I get to see the place and if I like it sufficiently then I can return for several days in the future.
The ones that confound me are those who sail for the shopping. While it is nice to have a few exotic things from exotic ports, it is very difficult to get them home. And if you are traveling then you are not home to enjoy them. In the end things don't make you happy. Memories make you happy.
Sea days are necessary to be able to sail the distance. It is 500 miles from Huatulco to Manzanillo. The ship sails roughly 15 miles an hour. The fastest in can do is about 20 mph. Sometimes they slow a bit for dinner service especially in rough seas. So it takes 36 hours to go the distance. In the mean time the staff keeps the passengers occupied with trivia games and shuffle board tournaments. Tuesday was another day at sea. People love or hate these but are never very neutral about the subject. A lot has to do with the reason for sailing in the first place. If you are there to see places then a day at sea seems a waste. If you are there for relaxation then it is a gift to have no where to go. People who have sailed more tend to stay on board even in port. I spoke with some passengers who sailed this same route for three years in a row. They couldn't be bothered to get off the ship.
One tour that is offered occasionally is “Shopping with the Chef.” He visits the local produce market and buys food for the ship. You get to see him in action as he haggles with the locals and picks the freshest of fish and vegetables. That tour would be impossible with a bigger ship but with 450 passengers there are only a few who get to go and he doesn't have to buy the quantities that would be required for a bigger ship.
There are multiple tours so it is possible to have a different adventure each time you visit a port. Even the same adventures are different each time. I think of the port visits as an overview. I get to see the place and if I like it sufficiently then I can return for several days in the future.
The ones that confound me are those who sail for the shopping. While it is nice to have a few exotic things from exotic ports, it is very difficult to get them home. And if you are traveling then you are not home to enjoy them. In the end things don't make you happy. Memories make you happy.
Sea days are necessary to be able to sail the distance. It is 500 miles from Huatulco to Manzanillo. The ship sails roughly 15 miles an hour. The fastest in can do is about 20 mph. Sometimes they slow a bit for dinner service especially in rough seas. So it takes 36 hours to go the distance. In the mean time the staff keeps the passengers occupied with trivia games and shuffle board tournaments.

Huatulco

Dec. 29th, 2015 04:42 pm
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This beach resort has the full name of Bahías de Huatulco but everyone shortens it. It is pronounced wah-TOOL-co. The resort was started in 1980 then FONATUR (Fondo Nacional de Turismo) acquiring 21,000 hectares in 1984 developing the beaches and hotel facilities. It features 9 bays with 36 sandy beaches. The cruise dock leads to a beach village with shops and restaurants. Condominiums dominate the hillsides with great views. The small town of La Crucecita provides more services than the beach area with Santa María Huatulco as the municipal seat of government a few miles away.

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The name Huatulco comes from the Náhuatl word cuaúhtolco, meaning “the place where the wood is adored.” Quetzalcóatl left the inhabitants of the bay and port of Santa Cruz a wooden cross. If I were to guess I would guess that Aztec and Mayan gods didn't leave the cross. It was more likely Hernán Cortés who would have been Catholic.

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We arrived just after 9:00 am, did an 180 degree turn and backed into the dock. The day was already starting to get hot when I walked in about 10:30 for a look around. The shop owners were a bit aggressive. One shopkeeper ask me to buy some jewelry for my “Beautiful Wife.” When I said I didn't have one he didn't question whether I had an ugly wife or in fact didn't have a wife at all.
I had a lot of Santa comments and started to tell people I was Abuelo Oso (Grandfather Bear.). When I told one that I wasn't Santa he suggested that I might be Santa's Brother. I guess the story never really mentions Santa's family with the exception of Mrs. Claus.

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There was an interesting Chapel that was open air. There were no complete walls in the building only a roof. Near the church was an outdoor theater with an interesting canvas sun shade. It formed interesting shadows on the seats during the heat of the day.

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I didn't last long. It only took me about 45 minutes to see all I cared to see. I bought two postcards. The were two for a dollar but I had trouble picking a second interesting card. That spoke volumes about things to see in Huatulco. I spent the rest of the day with people on board. We sailed at 6:00 pm pulling away from the dock and sailing straight out into the night.

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Mexico

Dec. 28th, 2015 10:24 am
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We sailed out of Guatimala and into Mexico docking at Puerto Chiapas in the state of Chiapas. It is about the size of South Carolina and borders Guatamala which is two the south.
Puerto Chiapas has developed a cruise port that is very nice. It is acrose the bay from a beach with thatched huts so not to be outdone the terminal has a thatch roof as well but is about 6 times the height of across the bay. There is a wide promenade next to the cruise ships with a round fountain with the port name spelled out so it can be read from your balcony should you ever wonder where you are. Inside there is a dance space which is a large pit under the peak of the roof and there are a dozen shops selling jewelry, clothing and souvenirs. It was an easy walk to the front where our tour buses were waiting.

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